cherrysun237 said:

I have to rely on someone to add chlorine each night (nothing during the day)

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If you were there you'd be adding frequently to keep the FC topped off. It is what it is and you're still making progress, just a little slower.

+1 to replacing the sand.

cherrysun237 said:

Forgot to mention pH was 7.2 when I started and now it's around 6.8. When would I start to bring that back up?

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Anytime the FC is below 10. The test gets wonky with higher FC.

Mdragger88 said:

Do they scrub away?

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No, I have tried scrubbing them with a brush and also with my foot.

ajw22 said:

Is your Minimax a millivolt unit?

The knob controls a potentiometer, which is a variable resistor. You can try spraying it with contact cleaner which sometimes gets it working.

Replacing it looks to cost $29.

Pentair 471678 Minimax MV Potentiometer

The Pentair 471678 Minimax MV Potentiometer is an excellent choice for your pool filter needs this year! Get yours today from Pool Warehouse!

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Maybe @swamprat69 has ideas.

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It is actually a mini max plus 400. It is an older unit. Both knobs, on made to direct to spa, one to pool both having same behavior at the same time.

midmodonhillwood said:

have nowhere near the output as in your photo!!

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You'll notice the pool was filling, brand new. The returns are at the water level so that's why it has such movement.

Any movement, even if you hung it in the middle of the pool, would be fine.

Welcome to TFP.

A RS-485 cable is not any special wire. Two wire 18-24 gauge cable works fine. Preferably yellow/green wires.

ajw22 said:

The chelating agent survives with lot higher levels of chlorine. 1-2 ppm should not degrade it much.

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Great to hear. Now I can eat my cake and have it too!

Thanks!

tcat said:

Just put them in the Betta basket, or switch to salt.

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That sounds like an interesting idea but I'm not sure I would do it. Before switching to salt I had a Heyward chlorinator that I put pucks in. The inside of it got really nasty from the pucks. It may be fine but I wouldn't risk it in the Betta. The last thing we need is to give them a reason to deny a warranty claim.

I still have some of the pucks and am looking for a way to use them up in order to bump CYA. I tried a floater that I had and it also wanted to fight with the paddlewheel. If there is a solution I would like to hear it.

I am not happy at their demise. Ultimately a company that goes of business hurts its employees, and its customers. It’s a little bit sad, especially since they were the first. Over the years, I have probably owned 3 or 4 of the products (pretty much every one they ever built). However, they made an inferior product. The Ariel was the last straw for me. It provided 3 hours of battery life when 10 was promised. Its failure rate was also extremely high. So much so that it generally built a mistrust of all robot surface skimmers. Actually my Betta has failed twice in the two years I have owned it but it just seems more reliable. Anyway this is why I advocate for everyone to buy the longest warranty they can for one of these.

Well I am sorry for everyone that owns one, and for them and their employees, but this is the circle of life with capitalism.

The chelating agent survives with lot higher levels of chlorine. 1-2 ppm should not degrade it much.

Welcome to TFP.

Maybe @ogdento can collaborate with @mas985 @Dirk to figure out this IntelliTouch Solar problem.

ajw22 said:

Municipal water supplies can have a 1 to 2 ppm chlorine level. That residual chlorine level can keep a pool algae free until chlorine is added in most areas. With all of your water treatment you don’t have that.

You don’t want much chlorine in the pool for the first few days or the 28 day curing period as it can bleach out the color.

I would try and maintain between 1 to 2 ppm of FC for the first 3 days to prevent algae. You really don’t want algae to take hold during the startup.

After 3 days maintain a 3-4 PPM FC level for the 28 days.

You need to walk the fine line between algae free and no bleaching of color with chlorine during the startup curing period.

Although most folks never know if their chlorine during startup bleached their color out a bit.

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Thanks for the reply Allen... what do you think about this versus depleting the chelating agent with FC? Don't show any metals but I'm guessing maybe small amount of metal discoloration on fresh plaster might be worse than algae.

Your questions were answered in your other thread at…

The fact is that high pressure is bad and low pressure at the filter is good.

High pressure indicates restriction in the plumbing that is slowing your flow.

Low pressure indicates your water can circulate freely with less resistance in your plumbing.

What problem do you have in the operation of your pool?

Municipal water supplies can have a 1 to 2 ppm chlorine level. That residual chlorine level can keep a pool algae free until chlorine is added in most areas. With all of your water treatment you don’t have that.

You don’t want much chlorine in the pool for the first few days or the 28 day curing period as it can bleach out the color.

I would try and maintain between 1 to 2 ppm of FC for the first 3 days to prevent algae. You really don’t want algae to take hold during the startup.

After 3 days maintain a 3-4 PPM FC level for the 28 days.

You need to walk the fine line between algae free and no bleaching of color with chlorine during the startup curing period.

Although most folks never know if their chlorine during startup bleached their color out a bit.

Welcome to TFP! Some of my thoughts:
- If you actually were able to press the laterals and hub assembly all the way down to the bottom after adding that initial layer of sand, it should be fine. At this point, the only thing you could do is either remove all the sand and check (ugh), or "carefully" push a garden hose down to the bottom, turn it on, and let the water soften the area while simultaneously trying to wiggle the entire assembly downward just to be sure.
- Are you sure the MPV itself is seated as far down as it can go on top of the center standpipe? Sometimes those things have a tight fit together. Maybe check and if needed, add a tiny bit of lube to help it slide down? But if you do try to remove the MPV, be very careful because some owners have actually lifted-up their center standpipe out of the sand with the valve when removing it.

I don’t believe bonding was an issue until the 80’s. Everyone survived so I wouldn’t worry about it.

It all averages out. If you are generating 3PPM over 24 hours then in 8 hours you generate 1 PPM. So testing day versus night may swing a difference of 1 PPM. Not enough to worry about.

Test and set your SWG close enough. You correct it with the next test cycle.

Morning update. Passed OCLT test and CC still at 0. I think I just got a little behind on the liquid chlorine to keep up with my increasing CYA levels.

My FC this morning is still at 6.5ppm. That's the same as it was at 9:30PM.

If you can't be there, then next ideal scenario would be having someone available whom you could trust to do some very basic things like add chlorine periodically, check the skimmer, and ensure the system is running as needed. But if that's not possible, your pool will certainly become a swamp. Of course you can correct that by performing the SLAM Process, but there may be some residual organic staining to contend with later.

setsailsoon said:

I didn't see anything about that but might have missed it... it's been a long couple of days. Reason I added the FC is we have tannins and 2+ppm H2S in the well so I wanted to try to oxidize it as soon as possible. All I recall about FC is no slam for the first 30 days. It's sort of all over but the crying though so I'll double check the wiki in the morning.

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Matt, After looking again this morning at all the plaster guides in the Wiki, I did see in two of the guides they don't start chlorine addition 'till day 3. This morning my FC is down to zero. Thought about adding but I'm also thinking I may be working against myself. I added phosphate chelating agent and my guess is the FC is consumed by reacting with it... maybe I should wait 'till day 3 to add FC so I keep the chelation protection for at least a couple days? I dosed at about 1/3 normal dosage and will do that again today after you respond.

Chris

Welcome to TFP.

Get the resin pool and the Circupool SWG.