30 May 2024 Big Day Today - Bigger Day Tomorrow! Plaster Time!!

01 June 2024 Getting rolling with new plaster

As expected the pH rose to 7.5 so CSI is now .46 back close to the new plaster target of 0.5. Water still has a greenish tint and it's a little cloudy with a lot of fine looking dirt on the bottom. Pool also appears to be about half full which is about what I expected. Well tested at 25 gpm open flow previously and and I was expecting with the filter and sock 20 gpm. We've been filling for about 12 hours so at that rate we should be doing 28,800 gal per day.

Today I'll focus on getting the filter pump running and brushing while keeping pH adjusted. One thing I'm definitely seeing is the payout of swg is now way better than my previous pool. Liquid chlorine used to be $1.35 per gal on sale for bulk. Couldn't find it anywhere less than $5.50. WoW! Similar for acid. Used to be about $11 now it's $18!

Chris

Featured TFP Pool of the Month (June 2024); Theme - Water Clarity

So easy! Post ONE pic related to the theme title above. I bet you have a good pic saved somewhere.

See the contest rules below to enter.

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TFP Pool of the Month Rules

Monthly themed photo contests are announced on the first, with a 10-day submission phase. Days 11-15 are for voting, with the winner announced on the 16th, eligible for a $50 prize.
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www.troublefreepool.com

Here are examples of previous winners. It's easy! What have you got to lose? You might receive a $50 discount code from TFtestkits.net.

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TFP Monthly Contest Winners

Captured paradise: Celebrating the best in TFP Pool-themed Photo Contests.
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www.troublefreepool.com

Pentair intellichlor and easytouch

Ok, I pressed the reset button and it actually seemed to work. I then increased and decreased the output via the easytouch and the lights on the chlorinator reflected it. My chlorine is at .22, does anybody have any experience in this? Should I super chlorinate it?



J -

I really do appreciate you helping me out. Is this normal? We’ll see in a couple hours if those lights go out or not. I’ll wait for your recommendation on getting this pump wired up

IMG_2358.jpeg

Connection point next to the pool surrounded by ground

Hi, everyone!

I have an idea to move the connection point for my Dolphin next to the pool. My pool is surrounded by ground.

I want to dig a small hole near the pool, install a waterproof box into the ground and install an electrical socket there. Then install my Dolphin controller in that box and plug it in the socket.
When I need to run the robot I will open the box and connect it there. This way I will get rid of wires around the pool when robot runs.

Does anyone know an example of such installation? Any concerns about this? Any suggestions on the good box or any other advice?

Thank you,
Have a great day

Is my water "crystal clear" after SLAM?

Hi, everyone!

I'm finishing a SLAM process. Looks like it's done. FC = 5, CC = 0.5, CYA = 59 in the morning. I don't see any visible algae. Robotic pool is almost clean after a fool day of working.
The last parameter is if the water is crystal clear and transparent.

Question 1:
Is the any scientific way to decide if water is "crystal clear"? it's my first pool and I don't understand what is the good result. In my opinion it looks a bit foggy.
But maybe it's should be like this in deep side of the pool. It's 8.7 feet deep there.

Question 2:
At the end of SLAM process CYA and FC is a bit high. Should I just wait a few days or add more water in the pool?

Please, see pictures attached.

Thank you,
Have a great day!

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CH 450 in New Stonescapes, Scale forming again

Gene has you covered, but I thought I'd add a few data points to consider.

While your fill water of CH150 is lower than the pool, that won't help your pool's rising CH, it is causing it. As your water evaporates, it doesn't take the CH with it, it leaves it behind. When your auto-filler kicks in, it's just adding even more CH, even though it's a lower CH than your pool's. It's just going to keep collecting.

The only way to bring down CH is to do a water exchange. And keep in mind, when you fill the water back up, you'll be adding water that already has CH150 in it! Which means you'll have to exchange all that much more to get to your target CH. I did a small exchange last year, and filled the pool back up using water from my softener. So I didn't have to exchange much, because my fill water was CH-ZERO! I had to do that exchange because, even with a softener, the CH crept back up slowly. It took over five years, so I consider that a success. But instead of waiting another five years, I'm going to do a much smaller exchange each Spring. It'll be easier, and that'll keep my CH very close to target level constantly (as opposed to letting it get too far out of range).

I also don't like to let water out of my pool. It's risky (very small risk), but with these annual mini-exchanges done with CH-ZERO water, the risk is all but eliminated.

I get that a water softener is not in the budget right now, but consider this. You'll be fighting CH until you get one. Every day you wait is just that much more water you'll need to exchange (is water expensive in your area?). Which is money you could allocate to the softener purchase.

You can purchase a softener at Lowes for about $500. I bought mine from Lowes for about $600, and it's now about $750 (Whirlpool). It's going on 10 years old and still going strong. Not only does it take care of my pool's CH issue, it's quite luxurious in the shower. My toilets are not getting all "CH'd," neither are any of my plumbing fixtures, appliances, tile surfaces, shower glass, etc, etc. My investment has more than paid for itself just in terms of pool water maintenance, but is also returning huge dividends in prolonging the lives of all my plumbing, appliances and glass and tile surfaces. The longer you wait to "afford" a softener, the more it'll cost you in the damage your water supply is doing to your pool and house.

When I bought this house, the pool, the shower, the toilets were all trashed with CH build up. I had to replace the pool finish and I spent days scrubbing CH off of glass and tile and ceramic. Now, nine years later, all my fixtures and the pool are pristine, thanks to the softener. And by the way (I hate to admit), I never brush my pool. Not a trace of CH anywhere under water to be found! How's that sound?! I can't imagine having to brush my pool everyday. Yikes.

Do you know if your house is plumbed for soft water? You'd see capped pipes stubbed out in a wall somewhere, usually in the garage. If so, the installation is pretty simple. So your only expense would be the softener itself.

I did mine, EZPZ. I then plumbed my softener to my pool's auto leveler. That was more involved, but it was all DIY. Myself and others here would help walk you through everything, so you've got that resource at your back.

The SWG, Gene pointed out, will pay for itself in short order, but of the two, it is the considerably more expensive initial outlay. I'd get the softener first.

OK, so all that said, consider your finish's warranty when deciding on your target levels for your pool. CSI is the critical factor to keep under control, exactly as Gene advises. But the trick is to get your CSI in range while also maintaining your finish's warranty. Should you have a problem with the finish, the first thing the warranty facilitator will want to know is a history of your water chemistry. If you can't prove that you've been in their recommended ranges the entire time, (CH450 is not that!), they might try to negate your warranty. Even if you can site TFP's methodology as being better for your finish, they'll still have grounds to get out of any warranty repair. Think that through as you strategize your water maintenance goals.

Anywho, I do go on, but I really can't say enough good things about my softener! It was a great investment. The sooner you buy one, the better the return.

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