I remember on one of the Orenda blogs, Eric was saying that aggressive water has a tendency to look good. Is there something in this?I like to verify the main drain screws are still phillips, from the patio.![]()
I remember on one of the Orenda blogs, Eric was saying that aggressive water has a tendency to look good. Is there something in this?I like to verify the main drain screws are still phillips, from the patio.![]()
No.I remember on one of the Orenda blogs, Eric was saying that aggressive water has a tendency to look good. Is there something in this?
Sounds like a typical industry scare tactic to me. Ignore your eyes, ignore any testing, just use our product because you need it.I remember on one of the Orenda blogs, Eric was saying that aggressive water has a tendency to look good. Is there something in this?
According to them , something below -.3 on the LSI.Sounds like a typical industry scare tactic to me. Ignore your eyes, ignore any testing, just use our product because you need it.
What is their basis for 'agressive' water ?
Calcium scaling is from having too much calcium in the water relative to the pH. “Etching water” I’m not sure what that is but if it means the pH is low, then someone added too much acid. Acid can be pretty clear so I guess it could be said that “aggressive” water can look good. Gasoline can look pretty clear too, but isn’t safe to swim in. So it depends on the context of what the article was saying.I think the point from Orenda is don’t believe your eyes. Just because it looks great doesn’t mean youre good to go. Orenda is if anything way on the side of always test don’t guess.
Doesn’t etching water need calcium? And scaling water have excess(cloudy?)
Low CSI water is less likely to have clouding from calcium carbonate in general and when using products like pH increaser or calcium hypochlorite because the calcium carbonate dissolves quickly in low pH and low CSI water.I remember on one of the Orenda blogs, Eric was saying that aggressive water has a tendency to look good. Is there something in this?
Science is -people- analyzing observations about the world and then come up with an opinion about what’s true and false. People having different data and or (financial) motivations come up with different results.One thing that astounds me about pool chemistry is the differing in opinions. So far I've come across three different schools of thought, possibly there's more!?
There's the traditional CPO certifications ( which I have read here on this forum that its incompatible with what is taught here at TFP ), there's the Orenda method ( of which I've heard Eric disagreeing with the traditional CPO method ( haven't actually heard him say anything negative about TFP ! )) and finally, there's the TFP way.
This is only after under 7 months of pool ownership. Maybe science isn't an exact science.
What I always look to, is the direction of traffic here. We take in people who have exhausted all kinds of methods. In my time as moderator, not one has left us and found success. I would know, I'd be the one deleting their bragging post that unnecessarily trashed TFP in the process.One thing that astounds me about pool chemistry is the differing in opinions
Fair enough. Do you think Orenda advice is more applicable to commercial pools as opposed to residential pools here?What I always look to, is the direction of traffic here. We take in people who have exhausted all kinds of methods. In my time as moderator, not one has left us and found success. I would know, I'd be the one deleting their bragging post that unnecessarily trashed TFP in the process.
Do you think Orenda advice is more applicable to commercial pools as opposed to residential pools here?
I keep our pool between 0 and -0.3 it can go down as far as -0.6 but I will bring it back up to -0.3. My salt cell when it is below 0 does not get calcium build up. The less I have to putz with the equipment the better.I remember on one of the Orenda blogs, Eric was saying that aggressive water has a tendency to look good. Is there something in this?
Ok, so if your LSI is below 0 and you have no calcium buildup then is there no maintenance at all to be done on the SWG?I keep our pool between 0 and -0.3 it can go down as far as -0.6 but I will bring it back up to -0.3. My salt cell when it is below 0 does not get calcium build up. The less I have to putz with the equipment the better.
Ok, so if your LSI is below 0 and you have no calcium buildup then is there no maintenance at all to be done on the SWG?
Could a high ( or low ) LSI shorten the life expectancy of an electric heat pump? Asking for a friend.The only maintenance to do on the SWG is to remove it once or twice a year and look inside. If you see any calcium scale on the cell plates then you should try to clean it off with a jet of water from the hose. If that doesn’t work, cleaning vinegar is appropriate to use. If there is no visual scale, then put it back and leave it alone. Other than that, they need no other regular maintenance.
Could a high ( or low ) LSI shorten the life expectancy of an electric heat pump? Asking for a friend.
My SWG container is clear so I can inspect the cell with out removal. With LSI below zero I cleaned my cell exactly zero times last year.Ok, so if your LSI is below 0 and you have no calcium buildup then is there no maintenance at all to be done on the SWG?
I had heard that the LSI within the SWG can be a lot different than the actual pool water LSI? Something about the temperature being quite a lot higher within the canister?
This is good to hear.My SWG container is clear so I can inspect the cell with out removal. With LSI below zero I cleaned my cell exactly zero times