I have an Intex ECO20110-2 Sand filter with saltwater chlorinator. Not one single issue last, the first year in use. Yesterday I set the pump and filter system up because my water had a lot if gunk and I needed to get it shocked and vacuumed. Everything worked fine. Left it in full pump mode all afternoon and night. This morning I started vacuum8ng the gunk off the bottom and everything was fine. For a while. I noticed there was no suction and very little outflow. And the the Code 90, low pump flow light and beep. So far not a darn thing suggested by many has helped. Nothing. I've changed out the brand new sand. I've pulled the impeller. Checked for air. Turned skimmer on and off. NOTHING. I keep reading about a Low Flow Switch but nowhere can I find where it is located. I'm about ready to toss the whole Dang mess in the trash. PLEASE. ANY HELP??

I am trying to re-boot my pump. Does cable connector unplug(pull apart) or twist to unlock. I've gently tried both with no joy and I am concerned about damage.

Thanks

Any advice for finding intex out of stock parts? We have the 18 X 52 intex ultra XTR and found many holes this year so we ordered a replacement liner and its is here tomorrow. In the meantime a storm it our area and mangled our frame. OF course it did!

We need three replacement leg joints part #12427b - intex is out and can’t find them anywhere. you can find the #12427a joint which fits the non XTR pools. UGH - I would return the liner but then I am out the shipping. We already had the pool up and ready for water we found the holes. Should have just replaced the whole pool but for $350 i got the liner not expecting the storm and now I need horizontal beams and the joints.

Any source for finding these joints?

Yes, I probably should have spent the extra money and gotten a Hayward motor.

All the mechanical stuff came apart and went back together like a breeze. But now it's time to wire it up, and when I remove the cover for the new motor, there is nothing I can discern that allows me to select between 115 and 230 volts. Please see pictures.

I know very little about electricity. Could it be some sort of auto-select/auto-detect? Many thanks!

Pictures are old Hayward voltage selector, new after-market motor label and electrical connectors, etc.

My Polaris cleaner is fed from a 3/4 HP pump that wired for 240 volts. I would like to put this pump on a GFCI breaker.

The 240 volt GFCI breakers are expensive. The 120 volt GFCI breakers are less than half the cost.

The pump is rated 115/230 vac at 12.8/6.4 amps. It is located 10 feet from a 100 amp sub-panel.

At 10' from the panel, I see no reason not to rewire the pump to 120 volts using a 20 amp GFCI breaker. Note only would the breaker cost less but I would pick up an open space in the sub-panel.

What are your thoughts?

(Booster pump is fed from the 20 amp non-GFCI breaker shown in the photo.)

Anyone tried connecting a different device to the intellicenter, my ENS202EXT got water logged. Need to replace. plan to move in the next 10-12 months so just want a cheap solution

As posted in a previous thread at the end of last season I was battling white water mold as a result of high cya/chlorine issues. My scheduled opening is early May. Took a look at things today. The entire pool is COVERED with white mold. I did test chlorine, ph and cya today .
Fc basically zero mayyyybe 0.5
Ph 7
Cya 50

Is there anything I can or should prior to opening to try to get a handle on this ?
Thanks in advance

Okay. So as a new pool owner I made a mistake. I installed a new Hayward heat pump and have a salt water chlorinator. Everything I read said I must install a check valve or backflow valve after heater and before chlorinator to prevent backflow of saltwater into heater but now that I have installed it I wasnt even thinking of the backwash or waste setting on my sand filter and now water can not be backwash into the filter. So what is the solution?

I did a SLAM process and the algae is clogging my filter but now a 2 week old filter will no longer become clean enough to get a good prime or flow from the system. I tried without the cartridge filter in there and it primes fine. Do I really need to throw away a cartridge that is only 2 weeks old or is there a way to clean the algae off? Currently using a jet nozzle on my standard garden hose to clean the filter.

Hi all, our pool has a deck chlorinator, which is used to to slow feed tablets into the pool (much like the floating ones you can buy at the pool store).

It probably goes without saying that we are not using tablets anymore (thanks TFP!!!!) so now we don't know how to keep the deck chlorinator clean, sanitized, etc. since it will be off and not having any water flow (or Cl for that matter) through it. We recently noticed leaves, debris, and bugs had accumulated in this area and was clearly becoming a biohazard. we cleaned it out the debris, standing water, and scrubbed it with some SLAM'med pool water (~16 ppm). Not sure what to do next since, again, we have no intentions of putting pucks in there.

Anyone know about a lot deck chlorinators? Any chance LIQUID chlorine can be used instead? I can't find any info about this online or in the TFP forums. Thanks in advance!!

I believe I have some type of metal in my pool water, just not sure if it is iron or copper. I am on well water. After completing a SLAM process a few weeks ago, I noticed my water was clear but bright green so I let the chlorine levels drift down and did an initial dosage of Metal Magic and the water turned clear blue but cloudy. After 48 hours, I brought my chlorine level up from 2ppm to 6ppm and unfortunately, that seems to have precipitated the metals out of the solution as the water is now teal green. So now I am trying to come up with a weekly process for managing how to tackle this problem best. Based on my CYA of 40 my recommended target FC level is 5-7 but I may need to keep it closer to 3 for a while to prevent oxidation of the metals, but I also do not want to risk algae developing and the need to shock the pool.

I figure I will need to add a weekly maintenance dose of Metal Magic to the water to keep the metals sequestered but really struggling to figure out how to maintain my FC levels to avoid algae outbreaks. I was considering maybe supplementing with Poly60 but unsure how that interacts with Metal Magic and when to use each product, and if the application of that product even makes sense.

I have a brand new SW pool- unfortunately the SWG initially installed was a dud and pool builder will not be able to install a new one until Monday. In the meantime he seems to have shocked it last week when it was fileld, and stuck a couple of chlorine pucks in the baskets that are there now but it's not going to bring the pool to the correct levels obviously.

Here are my current Taylor kit results:

FC- .5
CC- .5
TA- 90
Calcium- 200ppm
CYA- 0
PH- looked to be 7.6 on color test

My plan is
remove pucks from filter baskets
add HDX bleach - TFP app says 1qt, 3cups, 3oz
add CYA with stocking in filter baskets- app says 11 pounds to target level of 70



I'm most worried about the CYA- I see the preferred method is a sock in the basket or in front of the returns, but it seems like once this level is changed it's a no going back sort of thing so I want to make sure I'm on the right track

The pool will be heated starting Monday and I'm unclear on how much temperature will affect what I'm doing and if the addition of the CYA and bleach will throw the TA and PH out of whack and I'll need to plan for that if it's a wait and retest later situation?

After adding CYA how long do I wait to retest levels? How long do I need to wait before using the pool robot after adding chemicals?

FC 0
TA 30
PH 6.8
CYA 40

SLAM target will be 16.

Before I start that, should I raise the TA or PH ?

Should I mix the salt in as well while all this is happening? (Didn't test that just yet)

Hello smart folks of TFP,

I've had a struggle with my pool for over a year now. We kept losing water and eventually it was proven that the shell is cracked. It's been cracked for over a year, close to 18 months. Luckily this is all under warranty and isn't costing me anything, yet.


The gunite company came out today and followed the crack by removing tiles. The picture above is one tile away from the corner of the pool in the deep end. Well, the crack was much longer than we could see on the surface. It went the entire length of that wall and wrapped around to the stairs. It's the wall closest to the house.



Yes, the water is a disaster because I couldn't keep chemicals in it and just gave up the fight. Anyway, it's fully drained now. After they removed all the tiles and revealed the full length of the crack they started cutting away the gunite for the entire length of the crack.





I'm being told tomorrow they are going to back fill behind the shell with gunite/concrete, and then respray the section they removed. They are currently adding holes to add new rebar because they said the rebar was laid improperly and it what likely caused the crack. idk. How well is this fix going to work? How do I not still have two large seams that run the entire length of the pool? Wouldn't it still leak water?

Also, does anyone know how the surface should be repaired? I was told they are going to resurface the entire pool, but how does that work with the tile that is already in place and with things lining up properly? I thought the surface (pebble finish) was a few inches thick.

I'm just confused as to how this is actually going to fix anything and not sure how the surface would be redone so things line up without a 2-3" ledge around the pool.

I'm sure I explained some things pretty poorly so if you need me to clarify anything just ask and I'll do my best.

Thanks,
Joe

I'm getting the flashing red light that according to the manual means an issue with the flow/temperature gauge. When I try to get the temperature it shows -- F which obviouslky means it needs to be replaced. Question is should the SWG function when this is gauge is not working? Mine is not generating any chlorine so I'm hoping the answer is no and that this is the issue. Pretty sure I can fix it myself.

Hello, I have an outdoor event next month and we will have mermaids there. We have a 5000 gallon above ground pool we'll be setting up. I've looked into tankless water heater and it was the route I was thinking of going until I realized they are only designed for shorter is use and would probably fail if used for 24-48 hours straight. I've thought about using a copper coil and a propane heater with a water pump. Would this be a viable option? I would like to spend under $300 if possible. If anyone is in or around Pocatello Idaho next month this will be setup at Mystic Realms Fantasy Fair.

See from the photo... I made a couple notes on it.
The placement of this Jandy Valve makes no sense to me.
If it's there to prevent inflow from the skimmer basket / bypass the skimmer basket -- I have no understanding of why it's necessary.
In the 7 Summers I've lived in my house and had this pool - I have never had a reason [that I know of] to use it to shut off that flow.

Present Day:
It is cracked. Air is being sucked in.
There is no true way to permanently fix it - needs to be replaced.
I could buy a replacement on Amazon for ~$35

I am here to ask this:
Why bother replacing it at all?
Or I could buy a few pieces of PVC and do away with it.

What should I do?
As always... thanks in advance.

A couple months ago, I started to have problems with my AquaLogic PS8 wireless remote. It frequently showed "The base receiver is not responding" which usually only lasted for a short period of time due to weak signal levels. But this time, it lasted for nearly a half day and eventually it failed completely. Instead of trying to fix it or purchasing a new wireless unit, I looked for a lower cost alternative.

So after some research, I found others that were looking into the same thing:



Leveraging this work, I came up with my own standalone solution rather than home automation which I am not all that interested in at this point.

Using an RS485 to WiFI server module shown here:


With some software I developed, I was able to replicate many of the functions of the wireless remove on Windows, Android and iOS as well as integration into Home Assistant.

Quick Start Guide: AQL-PS-8 & EW11 Setup Instructions

Windows Installation​

• AQL-PS-8 Remote Emulator - Windows Store

Android Installation​

• AQL-PS-8 Remote Emulator - Google Play

iOS Installation​

• AQL-PS-8 Remote Emulator - App Store

Home Assistant​

• PS8 & P4 Home Assistant Installation Instructions

Note that I have tested it only on an AquaLogic unit but according to ProLogic users on the development sites, it should work with the ProLogic version as well since many of the commands are the same.

Let me know if you run into any problems and/or have any feedback. The app(s) are fairly stable now and are now consistently working for me.

Opened and cleaned cartridges for the first time the other day. Noticed the following:

1. One of the bands on one of the cartridges is broken. Its just a little over a year old. Should I be concerned? Seems unlikely that it is a warranty item but I guess is worth the question. It is back in the filter and is running currently.
2. I am considering purchasing a second set of 4 cartridges and swap in and out when a cleaning is needed. Will the set that is put on the bench be able to be stored without degrading either the plastic or the 'fabric'? I had a DE filter prior to my current filter and the grids didn't do very well in the garage. Both plastic and grid fabric became brittle over time. Should I expect any different behavior from cartridges?
3. Note the rust on the inside. Should I be concerned? In addition, the 'clip' from 2nd pic has detached from the inner band in the 1st pic. Is that a problem?
4. What is the purpose of the PVC riser with screen cap? Is it acting as some kind of suction device?

TIA

Folks,

In keeping with my "everything breaks at the worst time" philosophy my Intellicenter WiFi stopped working just days after rotator/bicep tendon repair. Rehab is long-term (4-6 months). I'm right-handed so guess what shoulder? So I'm working left-handed with no right arm and I've managed to track it down. My left hand and arm combined with wife's right works fine... communication not so good though. Therefore any help to short-cut the repair process will be very helpful plus maybe avoid marriage counselor visits.

This unit uses an Engenius ENS 202EXT transceiver that looks like this:



You can't see the green light too well on the back but it's definitely lit indicating power. But the LAN and WAN lights are solid yellow, they used to (for at least a year) blink green. Here's a photo of them on the back while plugged in:


So here are my questions:

1. The unit appears to be a generic access point transceiver by EnGenius. I've seen them used and other products like this for security systems, gate openers etc. I can buy a new system including the network bridge (not pictured but it's inside the control panel) for about $80 online. Pentair part is $250 at several outlets. Any reason why the online product shouldn't work?
2. Is there a way to test the incoming Ethernet signal coming from the iPS8 control board just to be sure it's working OK before I replace?
3. Could I just run a wire from the control board to my router to verify the control board?

My wifi signal is great at the panel. Router is just inside the wall and I speedtest with Ookla at about 100mbps.

Any answers and comments/suggestions would be much appreciated.

Chris

Hi all,

I had a Jandy Aqualink RS upgrade kit installed a few months ago to get WiFi pool control. It's been working like a charm until 2 weeks ago, and now no response on the panel to any button presses. Any idea if there is a way to reset the controller? I checked, its receiving 24VAC no problems, just zero LED's working.

Im considering one of the budget option SWG,,,Circupool,Purline,Calimar......But I have a question. So they claim Hayward cells or the discount replacement Hayward Cells are not compatible. Why is that, that appear to be the same thing? My concern is, using Circupool as an example. When its time for a replacement cell, it seem the only option is the Circupool replacement. Looking long term will these budget brands be around? Are the cells really compatible, but they just can't say they are?

I have an in-ground pool with vinyl liner. As you know the Polaris UWF Connector (9-100-9001) screws into the inlet in pool wall.

The problem is the pool wall inlet screw threads are damaged/shaved down and needs to be replaced.
I'm having a hard time trying to find this part online.
Can someone please assist in providing details on this?

Also, I assume this is vinyl-cemented to a PVC pipe? Once I dig out dirt on the side of my pool then this area will be exposed.

Thanks in advance.

I have one of those thicker blue "bubble wrap" style solar covers trimmed to fit our in ground pool. With the flow of spring debris it has been easier to keep the pool clean with the cover off. Today the pool hit 66 degrees (whoo hoo!) and we're going into a stretch of 80+ & mid 70 degree days so this evening I put the cover on to try and retain what heat we've gotten so far (best day so far saw water temp hit 62).

My question is, if I want to maximize heat gain during the day should I leave the cover on or take it off for the direct sunlight?

Hi Everyone,

Opening my pool and didn't notice one side of the cover slightly came off and have of the pool cover Crud (Leaves, sticks and a small amount of nasty water) went into the pool during opening. Now my beautiful blue opening looks green and nasty,

Got most of it out and the pool is filing up.

Do I just keep vacuuming and overshock it. I have leftover liquid chlorine from last year, but its a salt water pool normally, I just use liquid chlorine for shocking. Stores are all closed now so no luck till tomorrow to get chlorine..

Thoughts?

I recently replaced the pool liner on my steel wall above ground pool. We had a massive leak over the winter and lost all of the water in the pool, which caused some bowing in the wall in a few spots. Now that the new liner is in,and the pool is filled, we have two uprights beside each other that are sitting incorrectly. One is about an inch too low, so we cannot screw in the top plate. The other is not sitting flush with the pool wall. I'm not sure how to safely reposition them, and could really use some advice. I'm praying that we don't have to empty the entire pool to fix this problem.
Thank you in advance for any and all help!

Hello!

Bought a house with an inground pool. It has a sand filter. I want to replace gaskets and the spring inside the valve. I'm new to pools (I don't even like to swim.) Anybody able to help me find what valve this is? There's no serial number anywhere on it. Just a label number.

Thank you!
Joe

So over the winter mice got into the heater through the blower and FILLED the kettle full of insulation and acorns. It took me a while to determine that's what was going on but when I did I completely disconnected the heater and brought it into the garage. The heater was up against the house so working in the garage made life easier and I could work after dark. Since the heater was originally installed in 2010, I figured I might as well do some preventative maintenance (maybe the real mistake) so I ordered Stack Flue Sensor, Thermistor, Pressure Switch, Hi Limit Switch 135°F, Gas Shutoff Switch 140°F, Igniter and a new orifice for the blower (mice chewed themselves a bigger opening in the grate and that's how they got into the blower). I also bought some 1/4" wire mesh and did a DYI mouse proof job on the heater as a whole.

• Compatible Replacements for Part Numbers: 42002-0024S, 42001-0053S, 42001-0060S (3902), 42002-0025S, 42001-0063S.
• Igniter Replacement Kit 77707-0054

I'm thinking I'm pretty cool...

As I'm attaching the last part on the heater in the garage (side panel that was facing the house) I notice the sticker that says MasterTemp 250. I could have sworn it was a 400.

Question #1: I surmised that the sensors I ordered and installed should be the same for both. They all fit fine and flow is flow, temp is temp, etc. Am I correct?

Question #2: When I now fire up the heater, the blower blows, gas flows (watching the natural gas gauge on the house). I think I'm hearing a click from the igniter (I'm not sure) but eventually the blower stops with a service heater light. I don't get any sensor indicator warning lights on the back of the control board...but I do get 3 red blinks from the Fenwall reporting "ignition lockout". Do I need to tear the whole thing apart again and put the old igniter back?

Hi, Just installed gas pool heater. The pool is covered and due to sun the top few inches of water gets hot. Since we only have 1 skimmer (no bottom drain), the top hot layer of water gets into the heater and heater thinks it has already reached the pool set temperature and switches off. Would an anguled return jet help ? (There is only one return). Just for testing, I connected a hose to the suction in the skimmer and dropped the other end into the deep end. That seemed to work. Any better solution ?

My pool is 20,000 gallons. At least that's what the math says and I've always balanced against 20k wirh success.


Moving to SWG. I added 600 lbs of salt total. 36 hours later (I have less than ideal circulation), the swg is reading 2800 to 3000 ppm.

24 hours read 2400.
36 hours read 2800.
No visible salt on bottom.

Salt testing with kit is also registering 2800.

I'll test again tonight for 48 hours. Issue is I'm worried about adding more salt despite testing low.


Math says 600 lbs should be perfect. Just thinking about how long to wait. Assume if I test 2800 again at 48 hours I'm probably safe to add. Or debating on waiting 72 hours.