Why the need to test FC above 10 ppm?

[reggiehammond]

You need FAS-DPD to know your chlorine levels. It's non-negotiable if you want to follow TFP methods.

 

[Mdragger88]

Thanks. I was wondering if my K02005 is an ok test for daily use. It doesnt have the FAS/DPD though.

Fas/dpd is a definite need to be sure of where you really stand on a regular basis & accurately do things like an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or the slam process if needed .
what you currently have is ok for a quick check here & there but I wouldn’t repurchase the reagents when you run out. No sense in having both on an ongoing basis.
Its a slight step up from oto test in my opinion . But fas dpd is supreme due to its accuracy & obvious endpoint. No color matching business.

 

[Homebrewale]

Reagent testing takes about 20mins to complete if you do it carefully … do it on a Saturday morning and enjoy and early cup of coffee as the sunrises … it’s really not that hard. Oh, and no one here uses strips … they’re worthless.

I'm going to need a beer for the testing. I like to test in the evenings instead of the morning.

 

[phonedave]

Shhhhh, let me tell you a secret - I don't test every day. Once you get experience, you kind of know what your pool and/or hot tub is doing and you can just add chemicals for a few days. For example, back when I did not have a SWCG I knew that my pool took a quart of bleach per day, once I had it dialed in. I could do that for 3 or 4 days and know it was going to be OK, and then test and make adjustments. I know my hot tub takes 2oz of bleach a day. I add that, even if I did not test it that day.

I don't skip testing for a long period of time, but it is no longer a daily task for me. I test FC/CC and pH 3-4 times a week, and I do a full battery of tests each weekend.

As far as digital / automated testing. When I fill my hot tub, I have to test pH every day for a week to 10 days until I get it dialed in. I thought a pH meter would be a big help. No, it was not. I spent so much time calibrating that thing, that it actually took me more time.

 

[adridimo]

And the PoolMath created by our resident computer-nerds is really a great tool for logging, storing, and analyzing the data you get from a test kit. And it cost a lot less than $182 billion to create and deploy for everyone to use.

and it does not work with EU phone becouse of dot and comma bug..

 

[JoyfulNoise]

and it does not work with EU phone becouse of dot and comma bug..

Yes, it is a known issue with EU devices. The developers are working on the fix but it’s not the fault of their app coding but the underlying system code that these phones use. So it’s dependent on Apple and Android to a certain extent. Unfortunately that happens a lot with Apps. I believe there is a work-around, although cumbersome, to help mitigate the issue.

 

[reggiehammond]

and it does not work with EU phone becouse of dot and comma bug..

Does old pool math work? PoolMath

 

[BelSplash]

and it does not work with EU phone becouse of dot and comma bug..

Works perfectly fine for me. I use comma for decimals.

 

[Lake Placid]

I’ll run against the grain but throw it out….if you want to spend the bucks Palintest Lumiso Expert. Get test standards with it to verify its calibration if ever in question. It can be sent back to be re-calibrated when necessary. It does use reagents and save you no time over the less expensive recommended drop based FAS-DPD testing.

 

[swimmynoodle]

While it is above the level we would recommend swimming in it would still feel less harsh than if you had zero CYA and 3 ppm of chlorine.

Hello. I found an old post of yours above and was wondering if you could explain. How would 3ppm of chlorine with zero CYA feel more harsh than 10 ppm chlorine and 20 CYA?
Do we have to test CYA every day? What would happen if we measured our pool with FC 3ppm but didnt know what our CYA was? Could we get chemically burned?

Thank you.

 

[PoolStored]

HOCl levels.

Your answers are here:

Pool Water Chemistry

This thread presents my findings so far on pool water chemistry including the following: More Accurate Calcite Saturation Index (CSI) to replace Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) Calculation of ppm HOCl (disinfecting chlorine) at various levels of Total Free Chlorine (FC) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA)...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[PoolStored]

To make is simple, 3ppm/0CYA is about 1.05ppm HOCl. 10ppm/20CYA is about 0.3ppm HOCl. NOTE: axes are logarithmic.

 

[PoolStored]

Do we have to test CYA every day?

No, every couple weeks is fine.

What would happen if we measured our pool with FC 3ppm but didnt know what our CYA was? Could we get chemically burned?

Not much. No not burned. EPA allow 4ppm Chlorine as CL2 in drinking water. CYA does not naturally occur in water.

FC around 7 to 10 is very high if CYA is zero. Will cause bleaching/degradation of clothes, and irritate skin.

 

[swimmynoodle]

In my never ending quest to get my water balanced so I can FINALLY get in the darn thing..

Does aeration affect TA or PH? If you search 'Aeration TA or pH' on TFP many people say aeration will lower TA, but many others say it will raise pH without raising TA. Still other say to lower pH to 7 which will lower TA too and then aerate to raise pH but not TA. And, a few say aeration lowers pH.

Should I use aeration for TA? pH? Raise? Lower? I know they have a symbiotic relationship and go up and down together, but Im confused as to when to use aeration.

My current levels are now:
(tested with K-2006)
FC 5
CC .5
TC 5.5
TA 90
pH 8
CH 60
CYA 0 (new fill, need to build up levels)

My plan is to now lower pH to the 7.5 range, use hydrogen peroxide to lower my FC to 3 ppm (I added too much) and then after that jump in an enjoy my swim spa.

..or should I follow a more recommended course to enjoy this swim spa which has broken my bank account.

Thank you all!!

 

[Bperry]

Aeration does not affect TA. You should go swimming now.

 

[JoeSelf]

Getting in will use up the excess FC. Enjoy it. Follow the replies in your other post.

 

[ajw22]

Aeration raises pH.

Aeration is used to raise pH during the process that lowers TA.

Aeration - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[swimmynoodle]

I keep reading people posting in here about buying a certain product called Gentle Spa. Where can this product mentioned on TFP be purchased? Is it an Ahh-some product? Is there a link?

I read adding boric acid can help stabilize pH from fluctuations, that Gentle Spa has borates in it, and that although the newer ingredients in Gentle Spa arent as pH friendly versus the older version, its still a good product. If Gentle Spa does the same thing as Boric Acid, id rather use the safer product which I believe would be Gentle Spa.

Is this something I should buy or purchase just if I see major swings in my pH? I have not seen major pH swings yet although I did go in my Swim Spa for the first time yesterday (thanks for all the help in here) and the pH did rise from 7.5 to 7.8 by the time I got out which I assume is normal.

Thank you all!

 

[Ahhsomeguy]

Gentle Spa is Sodium Tetraborate Pentahydrate or very closely related to Borax. It is a water softener and aids slightly in pH drift. I have never used this product but it may be something for you to look into.

 

[swimmynoodle]

Does anyone else consider the math when needing to buy replacement reagents?

One tiny bottle of R-0871 is $14.
FAS-DPD Titrating Reagent (for chlorine)

An entire K-2006 kit is $87 on Amazon.

You cant buy individual reagents for less than an entire kit.

If I bought 8 of the most used reagents individually, it would cost me $81, not including shipping.

So my question is, when you have one or two reagents which need replacing, do you just buy a brand new K-2006? It seems like it would be saving a ton of money long term.