Truly torn - SWG or Chlorine

[Pas_pool]

We have been doing our research and my wife and I are torn on which to go with. The PB have us a few days to decide as construction started today.

Thoughts? And why?

 

[Bperry]

We have been doing our research and my wife and I are torn on which to go with. The PB have us a few days to decide as construction started today.

Thoughts? And why?

They are both chlorine. One means you have to add chlorine manually every day the other makes chlorine for you using the small amount of salt in the water. Guess which one is easier and cheaper?

 

[dereksanders]

I vote SWG. Convenience and in the long run it’s less expensive. You’ll appreciate it when you go away.

 

[reggiehammond]

My lawn service weed-whacked my SWCG flow switch wiring while I was out of town. I've been completing a SLAM to recover and it reminds me just how much I love my SWCG.

 

[Gambit80]

+1 for SWCG. Did tons of research beforehand and now I could no imagine having to deal with chlorine daily. So glad I found this group to help me with information last year.

 

[wireform]

I'll decide for you right now so you can put an end to the dilemma, SWCG it is.

 

[TinFoilHat]

The SWG will save you $1000s of dollars in liquid chlorine over the life of the first cell if you keep your water balance to TFP specs and if you buy a quality SWG. Then you don't need to buy hundreds of gallons of LC over that same lifespan. SWG for the win. Circupool RJ series is a large favorite of ours.

 

[Jimrahbe]

pas,

I'd rather just fill my pool in with dirt, as it not be a Saltwater pool.

I really don't understand why there is even a question about going with saltwater??

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Newdude]

My SWG is the expensive one. It makes 1000 jugs worth of 10% chlorine. If purchased at Walmart, it would cost me $6166. The initial hookup ROIs at least 2:1 and future cells are a 5 min plug and play swap that don't need the controller or installation fees. They may return up to 4:1 to *not* lug 1000 jugs.

If you like to pay more and work more, then you do you.

 

[Pas_pool]

pas,

I'd rather just fill my pool in with dirt, as it not be a Saltwater pool.

I really don't understand why there is even a question about going with saltwater??

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[SJPoe]

I was torn too. I looked at the cost of the SWG, and the cost of the jugs, and was stuck in analysis paralysis (because I needed a new pump too to make it make sense). Someone here ( @Newdude ) convinced me with the math, and I have never looked back.

The word 'literally' gets thrown around a lot...but the SWG is literally the closest you'll get to hands-off pool care. My daily routine used to be test FC, add Liquid Chlorine, test again in case the LC had degraded, check how much LC I have left, figure out when I can get out to the store to get some more, assume the store has stock, figure out an alternate if they don't, dispose of yet another empty jug. In my pool, 4-5 jugs a week easy at $5.00 a jug = $25/week, 26 week season = $650 in jugs (plus time, gas to the store etc etc).

Now I try to remember to test FC at least once or twice a week...because it just doesn't vary much from day to day any more.

I never have to lift a jug (or a case of jugs for that matter)
I never have to dispose of a jug (or return them to get my deposit)
I occasionally alter the output level if my testing shows the FC trending up or down.
I maybe have to throw a bag or two of salt in at the start of the season to account for the winterization + rain/snow refill.

I ponied up 1500 for my SWG, but assuming the controller doesn't die, the cell is $800. Essentially I am buying the chlorine 'up front'. The cell is supposedly good for 15000 hours at 100% - I typically run mine at about 30% which provides enough FC for my typical demand, but we'll run the math at 50% as a 'worst case' scenario.
So 15000 hours @ 100% = 30,000 hours @ 50%. 30,000 hours at 24/day = 1250 days, 178 weeks, so almost 7 seasons at 26 weeks a season. That's roughly $4500 worth of chlorine. Now, will my cell last 7 years ? Probably not...but it's starting it's third season now...so I'm already basically at the break even point - I'm now starting to repay the cost of the controller and the variable speed pump (which saved me money too on electric consumption). Of course, I'm sure the price of Liquid Chlorine won't increase and drive my savings even further either

I think the term is 'pry it from my cold dead hands'...I'll never have a pool without an SWG. It's a bit like a Microwave - if you've never had one, it's easy not to miss it...but once you've had one...

 

[Pas_pool]

I was torn too. I looked at the cost of the SWG, and the cost of the jugs, and was stuck in analysis paralysis (because I needed a new pump too to make it make sense). Someone here ( @Newdude ) convinced me with the math, and I have never looked back.

The word 'literally' gets thrown around a lot...but the SWG is literally the closest you'll get to hands-off pool care. My daily routine used to be test FC, add Liquid Chlorine, test again in case the LC had degraded, check how much LC I have left, figure out when I can get out to the store to get some more, assume the store has stock, figure out an alternate if they don't, dispose of yet another empty jug. In my pool, 4-5 jugs a week easy at $5.00 a jug = $25/week, 26 week season = $650 in jugs (plus time, gas to the store etc etc).

Now I try to remember to test FC at least once or twice a week...because it just doesn't vary much from day to day any more.

I never have to lift a jug (or a case of jugs for that matter)
I never have to dispose of a jug (or return them to get my deposit)
I occasionally alter the output level if my testing shows the FC trending up or down.
I maybe have to throw a bag or two of salt in at the start of the season to account for the winterization + rain/snow refill.

I ponied up 1500 for my SWG, but assuming the controller doesn't die, the cell is $800. Essentially I am buying the chlorine 'up front'. The cell is supposedly good for 15000 hours at 100% - I typically run mine at about 30% which provides enough FC for my typical demand, but we'll run the math at 50% as a 'worst case' scenario.
So 15000 hours @ 100% = 30,000 hours @ 50%. 30,000 hours at 24/day = 1250 days, 178 weeks, so almost 7 seasons at 26 weeks a season. That's roughly $4500 worth of chlorine. Now, will my cell last 7 years ? Probably not...but it's starting it's third season now...so I'm already basically at the break even point - I'm now starting to repay the cost of the controller and the variable speed pump (which saved me money too on electric consumption). Of course, I'm sure the price of Liquid Chlorine won't increase and drive my savings even further either

I think the term is 'pry it from my cold dead hands'...I'll never have a pool without an SWG. It's a bit like a Microwave - if you've never had one, it's easy not to miss it...but once you've had one...

Great information thank you!

 

[Pas_pool]

Well, you all made this decision very simple. SWG will be going in. Here is the current hole we are looking at after day #1

 

[wireform]

It would be wise to share the equipment list so we can guide you before it's too late for any changes.

 

[Pas_pool]

It would be wise to share the equipment list so we can guide you before it's too late for any changes.

Here is our list of equipment from our PB:

Pump: PentAir Superflo VST - Variable Speed - 3THP - medium sized head pump

Filter: PentAir Clean and Clear 420 - Cartridge

SWG: PentAir IC40

Pool Heater:AcquaCal SQ145 Heat Pump

Auto skimmer: Beta solar powered with dual charging

Pool vacuum: Not chosen yet (possibly Neptune)

 

[Jimrahbe]

Pas,

I would upgrade to the 3 HP IntelliFlo3 pump with relay card...

The SuperFlo is a 1.5 HP pump... I never recommend smaller VS pumps.. You can always turn a big pump down, you can't turn a little pump up..

The bigger the pump the slower you can run it and still move a lot of water. The slower it runs, the less noise it will generate. At 1200 rpm, you almost have to touch my pump to make sure it is still running. Large VS pumps and large cartridge filters go together like ham and cheese..

You need some way to prevent your IC40 from getting power if the main pump is not running.. The relay card will do that for you.

I 'assume' you are not getting an automation system.. The IntelliFlo3 has an app to control your pump and SWCG (On/Off)

I would not recommend a Skimmer robot now.. Why? You do not even know yet if your skimmers are going to work well or not???

Are you getting two skimmers?? Best to have two of them, each independently connected back to the equipment.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Pas_pool]

Pas,

I would upgrade to the 3 HP IntelliFlo3 pump with relay card...

The SuperFlo is a 1.5 HP pump... I never recommend smaller VS pumps.. You can always turn a big pump down, you can't turn a little pump up..

The bigger the pump the slower you can run it and still move a lot of water. The slower it runs, the less noise it will generate. At 1200 rpm, you almost have to touch my pump to make sure it is still running. Large VS pumps and large cartridge filters go together like ham and cheese..

You need some way to prevent your IC40 from getting power if the main pump is not running.. The relay card will do that for you.

I 'assume' you are not getting an automation system.. The IntelliFlo3 has an app to control your pump and SWCG (On/Off)

I would not recommend a Skimmer robot now.. Why? You do not even know yet if your skimmers are going to work well or not???

Are you getting two skimmers?? Best to have two of them, each independently connected back to the equipment.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Yes two skimmers

 

[Pas_pool]

Pas,

I would upgrade to the 3 HP IntelliFlo3 pump with relay card...

The SuperFlo is a 1.5 HP pump... I never recommend smaller VS pumps.. You can always turn a big pump down, you can't turn a little pump up..

The bigger the pump the slower you can run it and still move a lot of water. The slower it runs, the less noise it will generate. At 1200 rpm, you almost have to touch my pump to make sure it is still running. Large VS pumps and large cartridge filters go together like ham and cheese..

You need some way to prevent your IC40 from getting power if the main pump is not running.. The relay card will do that for you.

I 'assume' you are not getting an automation system.. The IntelliFlo3 has an app to control your pump and SWCG (On/Off)

I would not recommend a Skimmer robot now.. Why? You do not even know yet if your skimmers are going to work well or not???

Are you getting two skimmers?? Best to have two of them, each independently connected back to the equipment.

Thanks,

Jim R.

And I am seeing my pump is a 2.2 horsepower. Not 1.5

 

[wireform]

Just for the asking why the heat pump and not a natural gas heater.

 

[Jimrahbe]

And I am seeing my pump is a 2.2 horsepower. Not 1.5

P,

I'm pretty sure that this is because they changed the way they calculate the HP of pumps..

The did not change the actual pump to increase its HP, they just determine the HP by a different method.

So, in my "old person" mind, it is still a 1.5 HP pump.. It does not have an app, nor does it have an relay card.

Thanks,

Jim R.