EDIT-SOLVED: Confirmed that one of the new conductors got nicked during the pull, inside the damp/metal conduit was causing the intermittent trip. The lamp works fine now.
edit: I swapped in a GFCI only breaker, problem persisted. So I disconnected the Pentair lamp entirely at the JBox and simply wired a receptacle at the JBox - not bonded with the metal enclosure, just the hot, neutral and ground from my panel to the receptacle, and I plugged a radio into it. It too tripped the GFCI after a few minutes. I'm thinking one of the three #14 stranded THWN may have been damaged in the pull. It was 115' mostly through old galvanized conduit. I've yet to confirm but next will run an extension cord to the niche and wire the Pentair lamp to that, and plug it into a pre-existing known good GFCI outlet. My suspicion is it will stay running at that point..
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Scratching my head here.
This is a rehab of a pool built in 1970. Inspector said rough work all looked good (new sub-panel/feeders, all the equipment was moved), said to finish my plan and call him back for final.
Everything is up and running properly, except, the new Pentair Intellibrite 120v light will turn on, it'll run and work properly but then after anywhere from 30 seconds to several minutes the breaker will trip. It does not trip instantly as I'd expect if it were some sort of water intrusion or damaged conductor coming into contact with the metallic conduit (etc.). There's always a long and variable length delay before it trips. Long enough that the WIFI enabled controller activates, I can turn lights on, change colors etc. but then it'll trip.
New #14 insulated conductors (hot, neutral, ground) were pulled through the old metallic conduit from the JBox to the new sub-panel, and the lamp is brand new. The niche is supplied by metallic conduit, with an insulated #8 copper wire running external to the conduit, presumably attached to the backside of the niche (which isn't accessible.)
When I test for continuity, the niche, the JBox, the #8 insulated, the other items attached to the bonding grid (ladders) are all continuous with each other and even to service ground. (The #8 insulated does NOT enter the panel, but since the heater/pump etc. are all both bonded and grounded, this makes sense that the "bond" is also continuous with service ground.
I'm wondering if maybe the breaker itself is the problem, it's a dual function AFCI/GFCI.. (Homeline 20amp single-pole dual function).. Maybe this is nothing more than a nuisance trip of the AFCI component in this context? Is it worth buying a GFCI (not dual function) breaker and seeing if that solves the problem? This breaker doesn't have any LED indicators which indicate the cause of the trip.
Was thinking about simply wiring a lamp or radio to the JBox above ground instead of the pool lamp, just to see if that stays running to eliminate any issues with the run itself..
Barring that, I'm scratching my head. If I can't figure it out, I'll ask the inspector for his thoughts before final, but that's another fee (which is fine, but trying to figure it out myself first)
Thoughts?
edit: I swapped in a GFCI only breaker, problem persisted. So I disconnected the Pentair lamp entirely at the JBox and simply wired a receptacle at the JBox - not bonded with the metal enclosure, just the hot, neutral and ground from my panel to the receptacle, and I plugged a radio into it. It too tripped the GFCI after a few minutes. I'm thinking one of the three #14 stranded THWN may have been damaged in the pull. It was 115' mostly through old galvanized conduit. I've yet to confirm but next will run an extension cord to the niche and wire the Pentair lamp to that, and plug it into a pre-existing known good GFCI outlet. My suspicion is it will stay running at that point..
----
Scratching my head here.
This is a rehab of a pool built in 1970. Inspector said rough work all looked good (new sub-panel/feeders, all the equipment was moved), said to finish my plan and call him back for final.
Everything is up and running properly, except, the new Pentair Intellibrite 120v light will turn on, it'll run and work properly but then after anywhere from 30 seconds to several minutes the breaker will trip. It does not trip instantly as I'd expect if it were some sort of water intrusion or damaged conductor coming into contact with the metallic conduit (etc.). There's always a long and variable length delay before it trips. Long enough that the WIFI enabled controller activates, I can turn lights on, change colors etc. but then it'll trip.
New #14 insulated conductors (hot, neutral, ground) were pulled through the old metallic conduit from the JBox to the new sub-panel, and the lamp is brand new. The niche is supplied by metallic conduit, with an insulated #8 copper wire running external to the conduit, presumably attached to the backside of the niche (which isn't accessible.)
When I test for continuity, the niche, the JBox, the #8 insulated, the other items attached to the bonding grid (ladders) are all continuous with each other and even to service ground. (The #8 insulated does NOT enter the panel, but since the heater/pump etc. are all both bonded and grounded, this makes sense that the "bond" is also continuous with service ground.
I'm wondering if maybe the breaker itself is the problem, it's a dual function AFCI/GFCI.. (Homeline 20amp single-pole dual function).. Maybe this is nothing more than a nuisance trip of the AFCI component in this context? Is it worth buying a GFCI (not dual function) breaker and seeing if that solves the problem? This breaker doesn't have any LED indicators which indicate the cause of the trip.
Was thinking about simply wiring a lamp or radio to the JBox above ground instead of the pool lamp, just to see if that stays running to eliminate any issues with the run itself..
Barring that, I'm scratching my head. If I can't figure it out, I'll ask the inspector for his thoughts before final, but that's another fee (which is fine, but trying to figure it out myself first)
Thoughts?
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