So Cal Pool Remodel Cost?

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Yup. That's a bonding wire. It's important to keep that in place as it is an essential electrical safety feature. Keep access to it as you will need to bond any new deck you pour by connecting the metal wire mesh of the new deck to that wire.


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Also, those rods sticking up may have been anchors for a diving board. Did that pool have a diving board?


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Is it possible that was my bonding grid? If so I'm curious why I only see 1 wire going to it, shouldn't I have a few connected?

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To be honest not entirely sure if it had a diving board however that wire connected to it does come from the direction of the old pool ladder I removed. Now the question I have let's say I go with some kind of floating travertine deck maybe I have to repour concrete there to recreate the grid, it did have 2 pieces of rebar across under these 2 kind of like this "#" I did also notice that there is a wire coming out of the side of the skimmer concrete, but it's not really connected to anything it was just buried in the dirt.
 
Prior code requirements only called for a #8 solid copper wire to wrap 18" from the perimeter of the pool. That is likely what you are seeing. That wire should tie into the structural rebar cage at 3- 4 different locations around the pool.

Looks like there once was a diving board the which also explains the junction box location. They were usually placed directly under the board as in front of the mounts.

It's going to depend on what edition of the code Whittier is going with. You'll need to find out if they are still OK with the #8 wire or if they are going to require 12x12 copper mesh grid 3' from the edge of the pool and all the way around it.

Are you permitting this remodel?
 
Thanks for the response that does answer my question. Not sure if I want to go the permit route yet only because it will cause me to have to add door alarms and self closing gates and a few other things Im not to thrilled to do. I did speak to a friend who used to work for the city, according to him permits are required for any kind of plumbing or structural changes however not for a simple cosmetic change whatever that means.
 
So I currently have a whisperflo 1.5HP 2 speed pump and running it for around 6 hours a night. It's costing me around $45 per month. I'm considering buying a variable speed pump I see the Pentair 011018 Intelliflo Variable Speed pump for around $900 and SCE is offering a $200 rebate, any suggestions or better options? My plan is to run new 2 inch PVC to the 3 returns which are currently 1inch copper lines. I will also be building a raised bond beam wall with 3 waterfalls, I ordered 6 Jandy Neverlube valves so I can run each 2 inch line independently from the equipment pad. Should I be ok with the 3HP inteliflo for everything? Would there be a neccesity to run the old pump for the water features, potentially I might also add 2 laminar jets.
 

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So why did you drain it? Are you going to scrub it clean then add water? We could have helped you clean the algae with the water in it so you could jump in and cool off while doing all of that deck work!

Kim:kim:
 
Because I have to cut the return lines and couldn't do it unless the water was drained to a certain level, The plan is to replaster by summer so I figured might as well just take care of it now that I have the submersible pump. I didn't want to go through a slam, spending on liquid Chlorine etc only to have to drain it anyway.
 
That's likely the case, luckily I don't have kids yet and it's just my fiancé and I at home so I'm not too worried about an accident, California keeps getting rain so not sure how empty I can keep it. I'm considering getting this replastered this month, only if I can get done with this plumbing soon.
 
You should check out aquaBright, you're pool is the perfect condition for it - old plaster that just needs some patching and then a brand new coating of AquaBright. Plus, you could get the job done quickly and not have to worry about all the startup chemistry nonsense with traditional plaster. As soon as you think you know what kind of waterline tile you want, then you can pick the A/B color that looks best with it.

Check out posts by bdavis466, he's our AquaBright Expert (and an Expert at many other things too!!)



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Bdavis just sent me some info on it, kinda has me intrigued. I read some threads on it and trying to figure out if this has like a soft bouncy feel to it when stepping on it or does it feel just like any hard plaster? I guess I'll do a little more research, I like the fact that it doesn't affect your chemistry the way a regular plaster or pebble will.

JoyfulNoise said:
You should check out aquaBright, you're pool is the perfect condition for it - old plaster that just needs some patching and then a brand new coating of AquaBright. Plus, you could get the job done quickly and not have to worry about all the startup chemistry nonsense with traditional plaster. As soon as you think you know what kind of waterline tile you want, then you can pick the A/B color that looks best with it.

Check out posts by bdavis466, he's our AquaBright Expert (and an Expert at many other things too!!)



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Today I worked on breaking out my old skimmer however I guess it's pretty much just a copper pipe with a T which is also connected to the main drain, any reason why I shouldn't just cap the main drain? Would It be better to run a new line from the main drain/current skimmer area to the equipment pad and use a Jandy valve? Since I will be building a raised beam wall the skimmer location will likely be moved over to the short side of the pool so that's likely my next move, I've been working on this project for 3 days straight from 8-5:30, there's simply not enough hours in the day.

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