Pipe cement? What do you like?

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PureLuck

PureLuck

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May 1, 2016
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Hopkinton, MA
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Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
So we inherited this pool & filter system when we bought the house.. they glued in all pipes, but left no extra space to cut out and replace pipes as needed. That being said, the pipe which comes directly from the motor (1st filter basket at the filter) is leaking. I dried it off mid summer and used the pipe cement that comes in the black can. Now that I'm getting ready to closer the pool I've noticed that the"glue" I used has cracked and water is again leaking out of it, which lowers the pressure in the filter.
What would be the best choice of product to get to seal the joins? We are in Massachusetts so it gets below freezing.
 
Just use regular PVC primer/cleaner and cement on all the plastic plumbing parts. Note that grey (sch 80) is CPVC and most unions are ABS. Avoid the "snake oil" products you'll find in Home Depot/Lowes, etc, that are "required" for CPVC, ABS, etc. I've had much more trouble with them than with just regular PVC cement when joining the different plastics.
 
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Pool_Medic said:
Most unions are not abs, they are pvc, sheesh.
Click to expand...

Maybe your's aren't:

Flush Unions - ABS

Flush unions are designed so the pipe can be inserted on the outside fitting rather than the inside. This allows it to be plumbed closer to the other fitting. Made of quality materials for commercial and residential pool plumbing.
www.poolweb.com www.poolweb.com

I'd double check what you're selling/installing (these are Hayward).
 
PureLuck said:
So we inherited this pool & filter system when we bought the house.. they glued in all pipes, but left no extra space to cut out and replace pipes as needed. That being said, the pipe which comes directly from the motor (1st filter basket at the filter) is leaking. I dried it off mid summer and used the pipe cement that comes in the black can. Now that I'm getting ready to closer the pool I've noticed that the"glue" I used has cracked and water is again leaking out of it, which lowers the pressure in the filter.
What would be the best choice of product to get to seal the joins? We are in Massachusetts so it gets below freezing.
Click to expand...
How much room do you have to work with?
I've made my own joint repairs with great success.
And regarding PVC and joints, I'm not going to get in the middle of that except to say that I will only use PVC joints on PVC pipe, and I use the proper PVC primer and glue.
 
Regular pvc cement will not work, you might want to check into that. BTW, transition glue isn’t on any codes that I’m aware of, for transitions you are required to use fernco fittings in my neck of the woods.
 
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IMG_20191024_082638.jpg
This is currently how it looks. I need to repair the leaks where the white meets the black.. there are a few other spots in the system that look like they after going to crack (form leaks) in the future...
And he cement is Oatey Fusion PVC single step.
 
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a little confused as to where all this abs/pvc controversy came from, but I believe the piece that goes into the black piece shown (the pump) is a screw in. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. If correct, I'd use teflon tape to seal it to the pump...
 
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You are correct. That MPT adapter going into the pump should be screwed in snugly and with a thread sealer. Looks like someone tried to put something over the joint previously to seal a leak.

The OP needs to cut out that 90 and replace the adapter going into the pump and replumb. Get rid of that flexible section, too - that's the lazy man's way of plumbing and will fail eventually (especially above ground and exposed to UV light).
 
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Yep, the pic helps. Whatever was used at the black/white connection was NOT PVC or ABS glue and it is a screw in connection anyway so no glue of any kind should have been used.

+1 what sktn77a said........get rid of ALL the crummy looking pvc pipe and joint and unscrew that fitting that goes into the pump and throw them all away.
 
When you re-do the piping fit it up to make sure every piece is the proper length and is square. Soapy water helps to do this. Then mark each piece around the circumference and put a perpendicular line so you know how far to penetrate and the angle it need to be turned to. Mark with a pencil not indelible ink pen since the pen mark will disappear when you clean the fitting and glue it. Doing this can be difficult since its tough to push the fittings to full penetration then take them apart. But it's worth the effort, your piping will look like a pro did it... many of them use this technique and that's where I learned it.

Also, get the right glue. Avoid the quick-drying unless you really need it. You need time to get the fitting in the right position before the glue sets.

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
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If you give it a full 24hrs to dry it works fine. Blue rain or shine is perfect for below ground and clear primer and heavy duty glue works on all fittings above ground for a clean look. If you need to do abs/pvc and dont have overnight dry time use appropriate glue. Heavy duty glue is hot and had 3 seconds of play and its set
 
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