Im guessing my best bet to remove these is to use a pvc pipe + muriatic?
New to me pool - Progress pics
- Thread starter Sparkling Water Enjoyer
- Start date
Much less damaging than muriatic acid on plaster.
Ah, Oxalic is similar to AA/Citric for iron.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,753
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Read Ascorbic Acid Treatment - Further Reading
Another alternative is oxalic acid, but one has to be careful not to overdose or use it in high CH conditions due to the precipitation of calcium oxalate (i.e., it's OK as a local spot treatment, but not so good for a broad amount -- probably no more than 1 ounce per 10,000 gallons). Oxalic acid has a higher toxicity profile (so just be careful not to get it on your hands or inhale dust), though it's still less hazardous than some other chemicals we use for the pool
Before/after of second AA treatment.
I'm going to slowly slowly slowwwwly raise chlorine levels over a few days and keep the pump running / polyfil in skimmer. Let's see how much we can trap.
Open to other ideas
I'm going to slowly slowly slowwwwly raise chlorine levels over a few days and keep the pump running / polyfil in skimmer. Let's see how much we can trap.
Open to other ideas
Day 3, I cut a hole in a chlorine bottle and let it drip feed into the skimmer. Skimmer is filled with poly, however it's "clear."
pH is 7.2, chlorine is 3 and holding steady.
AA tanked PH so I used this as an opportunity to add Borates (borax). When adding chlorine, it took about 1-1.5g to completely negate the AA, and roughly 1g of Muriatic to keep the ph steady at 7.2.
I trickled some jacks purple every few hours, and am closely monitoring the surface for any iron coming out of solution.
Seeing as the Polyfil is clear, I'm assuming I have the iron sequestered. Additionally I did throw a CuLator into pump skimmer, and it does have a brown tint to it now, so perhaps it is doing something.
Going to give the filters a good bath, and keep the skimmer filled with poly for a week or two.
I think for this pool, I'm going to keep the PH around 7.2, and the chlorine around 3/4 or so. I don't want to give it to much PH or Chlorine and have a ton of iron fallout.
Additionally, I had no luck removing the rusted areas of plaster on the base of the pool. I ordered an OA sock to try, acid+pipe didn't affect it at all.
pH is 7.2, chlorine is 3 and holding steady.
AA tanked PH so I used this as an opportunity to add Borates (borax). When adding chlorine, it took about 1-1.5g to completely negate the AA, and roughly 1g of Muriatic to keep the ph steady at 7.2.
I trickled some jacks purple every few hours, and am closely monitoring the surface for any iron coming out of solution.
Seeing as the Polyfil is clear, I'm assuming I have the iron sequestered. Additionally I did throw a CuLator into pump skimmer, and it does have a brown tint to it now, so perhaps it is doing something.
Going to give the filters a good bath, and keep the skimmer filled with poly for a week or two.
I think for this pool, I'm going to keep the PH around 7.2, and the chlorine around 3/4 or so. I don't want to give it to much PH or Chlorine and have a ton of iron fallout.
Additionally, I had no luck removing the rusted areas of plaster on the base of the pool. I ordered an OA sock to try, acid+pipe didn't affect it at all.
Chlorine levels are starting to hold steady, and PH is no longer rising, so I'm going to assume the majority of the AA has been cancelled out. Pool looks great again 
Additionally, I swapped out the light myself and hooked up the transformer for it. So many colors!
Additionally, I swapped out the light myself and hooked up the transformer for it. So many colors!
Woke up and the pool looks like skim milk, cant see the bottom at all.
Zero chlorine showing as well.
I did add 25lbs of Calcium yesterday, but the pool was clear when I went to bed.
Pump runs 24/7.
I added 1/2 gal of liq chlorine, and turned the salt cell to 100%. It appears the chlorine isnt holding yet, and with the water temp hitting 65 it might be something growing.
Zero chlorine showing as well.
I did add 25lbs of Calcium yesterday, but the pool was clear when I went to bed.
Pump runs 24/7.
I added 1/2 gal of liq chlorine, and turned the salt cell to 100%. It appears the chlorine isnt holding yet, and with the water temp hitting 65 it might be something growing.
Additives (likely anti caking) have been known to wipe out FC at times. It's been reported many times but can't be replicated on purpose.
Calcium or Cal-hypo in large batches may cause cloudiness.
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to prove you're still ok.
Can't add that much cal hypo all at once and not have white water.
Wow I am really struggling here. I have been using a gallon of liquid chlorine a day, plus running the swg at 100% for 12-18 hours, and every morning I'm at 0 chlorine level. Today I added a gallon, and it read 0 within 4 hours. Unsure why my chlorine isn't sticking, and my salt is magically raising.
Water is clear, here are my readings.
I have been using TFP app for chem adjustments.
Fc 0
Tc 0
Ph 7.2
Calcium ~350
CYA 60
Phos 4000
Salt 4360
Water is clear, here are my readings.
I have been using TFP app for chem adjustments.
Fc 0
Tc 0
Ph 7.2
Calcium ~350
CYA 60
Phos 4000
Salt 4360
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- May 3, 2014
- 62,617
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I have scanned the thread --- how are you testing your pool water chemistry? Please add what test kit you are using to your signature.
It's a Taylor 5314 kit (ph/chlorine).
Rest of the info comes from local store testing.
I'll add it to my sig
- May 3, 2014
- 62,617
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Without a proper test kit you will not have success.
Get your own proper test kit.
www.troublefreepool.com
Get your own proper test kit.
Pool Test Kits - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Add ALL of your pool equipment and pool details to your signature please. You're going to be totally lost without a better testing kit and the pool store won't be the best for accuracy.
Done.
I'm going ahead and ordering the T100 Salt kit so I have a proper kit.
The date on my kit is from 2001.....
Supporter pledge done and order placed, however it wouldnt take my discount code anywhere.
Going to drain/refill about 8in of water from the pool and refill so that the salt levels arent so high. The SWG High Salt light was flickering on.
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- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,607
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Take the Pool RX out of the pool. It adds copper and sulfates to your pool water. Copper will stain the pool (and turn blond hair green). Sulfates can corrode metal and concrete.
No bueno for el poolo.
No bueno for el poolo.
Pool RX?
Dont believe I have that, there is a CuLator egg in the pump basket tho, is that what you mean?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,607
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Yeah, sorry for that I thought I read poolRX.
On the CuLator...TFP doesn't recommend it....
Couple posts from our Chemistry expert...
Does a CuLator actually work?
Your copper stain treatment did not remove the copper from your water, it only removed the solid copper stain from the wall by making it dissolve back into solution. So you still have copper in your water. You need to find a pool store that can do a "total copper" test, not just a "free copper"...
www.troublefreepool.com
Iron Stains: Do Ascorbic Acid + Sequestrant prior to using CuLator bag?
Hi all. Happy Summer '22. I've done two partial drain & fills over the years in an effort to remove metals. But it's too costly to keep doing. So I purchased a CuLator bag, and hope to get the remaining .45 iron out of the water. This is just a question about your thoughts on the process...
www.troublefreepool.com
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