That makes sense. To clarify, I used the 25mL sample size.
With pump circulating, likely less than 10 minutes. Certainly within 30.This site mentions adding enough Dichlor to hit a FC reading of 6ppm. Is it recommended to do this over two days, i.e. .5 oz of Dichlor today, test, and then just under .5 oz tomorrow (or later today)? How long does it take for the added chemicals to register in a new test?
Don't know what Al is. Test pH after 30 minutes. You can add the Dichlor 10 minutes after the muriatic acid.Also, if I'm first testing / adjusting Al and PH, if I need to make adjustments to those, how long to those take to register on a test and how soon after those are dialled can one add the Dichlor?
Perfect. Thanks!With pump circulating, likely less than 10 minutes. Certainly within 30.
Sorry - 'Alkalinity'Don't know what Al is. Test pH after 30 minutes. You can add the Dichlor 10 minutes after the muriatic acid.
Perfect. Thanks.Just manage the pH...TA will take care of itself.
Thanks for this. As per @Newdude 's comments = less wasted product. I'll follow this method moving forward.On the test sheet from TFTESTKITS.NET there's only one option offered, how interesting never knew.
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I'm realizing how quickly I'll blast through the CYA Reagent (R-0013). I found this on Amazon.Hey, @mwhitney , (just south of) Calgary here. Fwiw, I've had a rough time getting CYA dialed in - it's really easy to overshoot, esp. if I don't wait a couple of days between adding and testing, and having to replace any water when it's -30 sux pretty hard. This leads to a lot of CYA adding/testing cycles, and the Taylor CYA reagent (R-0013) supplied in the kit gets used up really fast (7ml/test, rather than a few drops/test) - and that was after buying the bigger kit with the 2oz bottles rather than the .75oz . This is all leading up to pointing out that poolsupplyhaus.ca only appears to carry the small-bottle kits; I bought my 2006C kit out of the States.
So this is kinda radical, I know.I'm realizing how quickly I'll blast through the CYA Reagent (R-0013). I found this on Amazon.
Really looking forward to getting to this point.So this is kinda radical, I know.
But frequent testing (of all the levels) gets you the knowledge of how your pool/spa behaves. Once you have some time under your belt, you'll just know that when XXX happens, YYY happens. It'll just all become second nature and won't need as much testing besides the Ph and FC, which you'll also just sense but test anyway.
Analogous to the 'buy once, cry once' adage.So more work, makes less work. It's crazy. If you slack on the testing before that, less work makes a metric truck ton of work when the chemistry runs wild on you. 0 stars, do not recommend.
CYA is very stable long term when stored temperature controlled. You don't have to worry about it going bad on you, so the big jug now will allow you to get those learning tests done without worrying about supplies.
Excellent. Good to know.CYA in the spa is a consumable as the water is hot. Once you figure out the loss you won't need to always test and just add it back to the chemistry. You don't need to be at exactly 30 so if it hits 40 or 50 let it be as it'll come down sooner then you think.
Exactly the same as pools. Your pool/spa will tell you what it needs, *if* you listen.this only done after testing each day and adjusting precisely per one's individual tub?
Ha! 'Shhh... let her speak.'Exactly the same as pools. Your pool/spa will tell you what it needs, *if* you listen.
Makes sense.It will not listen to you. Not even if you tell it that XYZ worked fine at Newdudes house.![]()
I figured of 6.0 is the goal, then just under 1 oz should get me there.In your 1200L, 317G spa, .5 oz of DiChlor will raise your FC by 3.25 and CYA by 3.0