New Hot Tub Owner - Taylor Test Kit

It depends sample size.

25mL sample===drops x 10.

10mL sample ===drops x 25.

View attachment 629284
That makes sense. To clarify, I used the 25mL sample size.

In other news, off to check it this morning as well as the Alkalinity and PH.

Question: Regarding the Dicholor startup, you'd mentioned, "in a 1200L, 317G spa, .5 oz of DiChlor will raise your FC by 3.25 and CYA by 3. ... When your CYA hits about 30, then switch to chlorine"

This site mentions adding enough Dichlor to hit a FC reading of 6ppm. Is it recommended to do this over two days, i.e. .5 oz of Dichlor today, test, and then just under .5 oz tomorrow (or later today)? How long does it take for the added chemicals to register in a new test?

Also, if I'm first testing / adjusting Alkalinity and PH, if I need to make adjustments to those, how long to those take to register on a test and how soon after those are dialled can one add the Dichlor?

Thank you.
 
Last edited:
This site mentions adding enough Dichlor to hit a FC reading of 6ppm. Is it recommended to do this over two days, i.e. .5 oz of Dichlor today, test, and then just under .5 oz tomorrow (or later today)? How long does it take for the added chemicals to register in a new test?
With pump circulating, likely less than 10 minutes. Certainly within 30.

Also, if I'm first testing / adjusting Al and PH, if I need to make adjustments to those, how long to those take to register on a test and how soon after those are dialled can one add the Dichlor?
Don't know what Al is. Test pH after 30 minutes. You can add the Dichlor 10 minutes after the muriatic acid.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mwhitney
*Friendly suggestion to current and future readers to use the 10ml / 25ppm per drop test for CH.

Nobody needs to know the calcium is 310 instead of 325. Or 330 instead of 325. Why waste time and supplies with 2.5X more drops ?


** Ditto for FC to use 10ml / 0.5FC per drop
 
Hey, @mwhitney , (just south of) Calgary here. Fwiw, I've had a rough time getting CYA dialed in - it's really easy to overshoot, esp. if I don't wait a couple of days between adding and testing, and having to replace any water when it's -30 sux pretty hard. This leads to a lot of CYA adding/testing cycles, and the Taylor CYA reagent (R-0013) supplied in the kit gets used up really fast (7ml/test, rather than a few drops/test) - and that was after buying the bigger kit with the 2oz bottles rather than the .75oz . This is all leading up to pointing out that poolsupplyhaus.ca only appears to carry the small-bottle kits; I bought my 2006C kit out of the States.
I'm realizing how quickly I'll blast through the CYA Reagent (R-0013). I found this on Amazon.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I'm realizing how quickly I'll blast through the CYA Reagent (R-0013). I found this on Amazon.
So this is kinda radical, I know. 😁

But frequent testing (of all the levels) gets you the knowledge of how your pool/spa behaves. Once you have some time under your belt, you'll just know that when XXX happens, YYY happens. It'll just all become second nature and won't need as much testing besides the Ph and FC, which you'll also just sense but test anyway.

So more work, makes less work. It's crazy. If you slack on the testing before that, less work makes a metric truck ton of work when the chemistry runs wild on you. 0 stars, do not recommend.

CYA is very stable long term when stored temperature controlled. You don't have to worry about it going bad on you, so the big jug now will allow you to get those learning tests done without worrying about supplies.
 
So this is kinda radical, I know. 😁

But frequent testing (of all the levels) gets you the knowledge of how your pool/spa behaves. Once you have some time under your belt, you'll just know that when XXX happens, YYY happens. It'll just all become second nature and won't need as much testing besides the Ph and FC, which you'll also just sense but test anyway.
Really looking forward to getting to this point.
I mentioned earlier in this thread that there was a tub on the property when we purchased in 2008. We had the tub for about a year before we sold it due to sheer frustration and not wanting a 'project'. I've become more patient since then (and my body hurts more) and, I believe there are better resourced online, such as this forum.

I found this site while looking for a better way to address chemicals than driving to the tub store every weekend. Given the plethora of digital devices and apps, I thought surely there must be a probe of some type that could spit out the info that the tub store was feeding us. While that doesn't seem to be the case, the test kits seem to be the next best thing.

I'm determined now to dial this in and keep things well maintained so we can measure, manage and go by some intuition as you say.
So more work, makes less work. It's crazy. If you slack on the testing before that, less work makes a metric truck ton of work when the chemistry runs wild on you. 0 stars, do not recommend.

CYA is very stable long term when stored temperature controlled. You don't have to worry about it going bad on you, so the big jug now will allow you to get those learning tests done without worrying about supplies.
Analogous to the 'buy once, cry once' adage.

I'm trying to go slow with the DiChlor (.5 oz, waited 30, just added .4 oz and will test) as I don't want to overdo it... likely being way to cautious but I'm striving to get this initial setup and changeover to the Dichlor / Liquid Chlorine method, right.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JoeSelf and Newdude
CYA in the spa is a consumable as the water is hot. Once you figure out the loss you won't need to always test and just add it back to the chemistry. You don't need to be at exactly 30 so if it hits 40 or 50 let it be as it'll come down sooner then you think.
Excellent. Good to know.
By 'loss', I'm assuming what is 'consumed', for lack of a better word, over time (heat, degradation, etc.). I know that frequency, temperature, UV exposure, etc. will all affect levels differently, but is there a general daily or weekly recommended amount of liquid chlorine to add once the Dichlor hits, say 40 just to give a guy a ballpark for maintaining - OR - is this only done after testing each day and adjusting precisely per one's individual tub?
 
this only done after testing each day and adjusting precisely per one's individual tub?
Exactly the same as pools. Your pool/spa will tell you what it needs, *if* you listen.

It will not listen to you. Not even if you tell it that XYZ worked fine at Newdudes house. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: JoeSelf
Heck. Even at your own house..... this time you sweat more. Next time you have more residual soaps on you / your suit. The time after that you spill a margarita.......

It'll tell you what's up at any moment, and you go from there.
 
Do you have kids / grandkids / nieces/ nephews ? They add a whole new level because there's 2 kinds of kids.

1) those who pee in the pool/spa
2) liars liars pants on fires

There's no standard for that either. :ROFLMAO:
 
OK - round two of the Dichlor. .5 oz the fist go, waited 30 minutes with the circulation pumps going and added .4 oz (.9 oz - 25.5g) total over the course of 60 minutes. I did this as per @PoolStored 's recommendation:

In your 1200L, 317G spa, .5 oz of DiChlor will raise your FC by 3.25 and CYA by 3.0
I figured of 6.0 is the goal, then just under 1 oz should get me there.

The CYA test vile is filled to the 30 mark but the dot is still visible (about half-way on the cloudiness 'scale'). I don't want to overdo it. Can I expect that the CYA level will continue to change over the day, or should I be adding, say, another .5 oz to the tub.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support