New automatic chlorinator

[Shapshftr]

I hope I'm putting this thread under the right heading. If not maybe a Mod can move it? Like many others before me, I have high CYA from using trichlor/dichlor for 3 years running. The first year when the pool was new, it was fine to get my CYA in range. Then the chlorine shortage hit, and you were lucky to find ANY chlorine most of the time. Mostly all that was available, in my area, was trichlor/dichlor, which is said to be around 58% CYA. I had no choice but to use whatever I could get my grimy little hands on.

Now two years later the options and supply still isn't great, and I have to find a solution to my ever increasing high CYA level. Researching CYA removers tells me they don't work. That leaves the old draining/refilling method. That for me is troublesome since I am on a well, and don't want to put that kind of strain on my well pump. Other than that, I will have to hire a water hauling company like I did when I filled the pool. My remote location with limited access to my home is, we'll just say, a bit of a barrier. I was lucky to find one hauler that would agree to drive his big tanker across my yard and around my property. I don't know if he's still around, since he was a part timer and the covid shutdown, high fuel prices and his full time job may have made him quit. So since it's almost time to close the pool for the season, I am going to wait until spring to deal with all that.

I need to get a handle on this and stop using the 3" stabilized chlorine tabs. I've done some searching and found a newer system that uses 2 1/2" Calcium Hypochlorite tabs. It will require buying a whole new chlorinator, and their tablets only. I've looked at their products and it appears they make one for residential use as well as commercial. I think their "Endurance" model is for residential pools, and I am seriously considering getting one to start using next year. So my question is, does anyone here know anything about these CCH chlorinators? It looks simple enough to install for my limited setup, just a filter and chlorinator, that is already hard plumbed with PVC. Some very basic tools and plumbers tape should be all I need to hook it up, other than replacing the PVC pipe to and from the existing chlorinator.

So, does anyone here have any experience with this setup? I would like to make the most informed decision I possibly can. I tend not to trust what anyone in the industry says, or even other pool owners that I know. So I'm hoping the TRULY knowledgeable people here on TFP have some insight to share. Can anyone help an old lady out, knowledge-wise? This product has been on the market for 4 years, so hopefully someone knows something about it. Here's a link to it: https://www.poolspanews.com/products/chemicals/lonza-introduces-3-in-1-cch-endurance-system_o

Thanks in advance!

 

[mknauss]

2 1/2" Calcium Hypochlorite tabs

Those add calcium. You will have an issue with the CH level rising. If your pool gets significant overflow due to rain, you might be OK. But if not, you will have a scaling issue eventually.

Install a SWCG.

 

[Shapshftr]

Yes I wondered about that. Is there no way to reduce the calcium without draining/refilling?

Edited to add, I think I'm too dumb to switch to SWCG Can't teach an old dog new tricks.

 

[mknauss]

Only way to remove the calcium is via draining and refilling with low CH water.

A SWCG is the simplest method of chlorinating your pool. You simply test the FC every few days and adjust the output, if necessary. I adjust mine a few times a year.

 

[Shapshftr]

Only way to remove the calcium is via draining and refilling with low CH water.

A SWCG is the simplest method of chlorinating your pool. You simply test the FC every few days and adjust the output, if necessary. I adjust mine a few times a year.

Thanks again. Are they a hassle to clean? I've read you have to take them apart to descale them. I will have to look into it some more. Is there any particular brand that you would recommend for a 17k gal above ground pool?

 

[mknauss]

With proper pool water chemistry, the SWCG should never need cleaning. I on on my second SWCG, in 8 years, and have never cleaned it.

With a single speed pump, you would want a larger capacity SWCG. I would suggest you look at the Circupool units rated for 40K or larger, or a Hayward T15 sized system.

 

[Shapshftr]

With proper pool water chemistry, the SWCG should never need cleaning. I on on my second SWCG, in 8 years, and have never cleaned it.

With a single speed pump, you would want a larger capacity SWCG. I would suggest you look at the Circupool units rated for 40K or larger, or a Hayward T15 sized system.

Ok, but wouldn't it require a separate electrical outlet from the pump? I only have the one outlet for the pump that has a special type plug/outlet, not your standard 3 prong plug. I don't want to have to trench another line out to the pool.

 

[mknauss]

It will need power. Not sure if your feed to the pump could be split to another outlet or not. You would have to consult an electrician for that.

 

[Mdragger88]

Does your pump run off of a timer? If so posting a picture can help with advice.

 

[Shapshftr]

It will need power. Not sure if your feed to the pump could be split to another outlet or not. You would have to consult an electrician for that.

I don't know either. It's about a 100 ft line, on a 20 amp breaker. I don't know if the circuit could handle two motors at that distance. Definitely would need to consult an electrician. I will do some more research on SWCG. It would be cheaper than buying chlorine all the time. Thanks again Marty.

 

[Shapshftr]

Does your pump run off of a timer? If so posting a picture can help with advice.

Yes and no. It did, timer went bad, bought a new one and haven't hooked it up yet. So for now I'm on full manual control. I have to do some adaptation for the timer.

 

[mknauss]

I don't know if the circuit could handle two motors at that distance.

Why two motors? The SWCG consumes very low wattage and amps.

 

[Mdragger88]

Yes and no. It did, timer went bad, bought a new one and haven't hooked it up yet. So for now I'm on full manual control. I have to do some adaptation for the timer.

Most swg’s have the option of being wired 110v or 220v. You would then just need to add the swg to the timer along with the pump. Depending on the model of your timer there are a couple ways to accomplish this. You want to be sure the swg never has power if the pump doesn’t. If you decide on a swg many here can help you sort that out if you are a diy guy. Otherwise an electrician would easily be able to accomplish the task. Swg’s draw very little current
Until then liquid chlorine is the answer to your woes.

 

[Shapshftr]

It will need power. Not sure if your feed to the pump could be split to another outlet or not. You would have to consult an electrician for that.

I think you sold me on SWCG Marty. I looked up the two you suggested. Circupool has some pretty mixed reviews. The Hayward one costs more, but may be better, I don't know. And it appears there's a newer model of the T15. I could be wrong on that. Hayward W3AQR15 AquaRite Complete Salt System for Pools up to 40,000 Gallons | Leslie's Pool Supplies

This one says it cleans the salt cell automatically. Both are the same price, so I don't know which one to choose. From what I see, it only requires 110 v @ 2 amps. So I think I may be able to split my power source. Will have to check with an electrician. Hayward Swimpure Plus Complete Salt System for Pools up to 40,000 Gallons - Limited Warranty | Leslie's Pool Supplies

What really has me confused is the description for the W3AQR15 says it produces chlorine as TRICHLOR. That has to be an error, correct?

.

 

[Shapshftr]

Why two motors? The SWCG consumes very low wattage and amps.

Sorry, the SWCG wasn't at all what I was picturing it would be. They actually look like they would operate on low voltage, 12v DC, if they have a transformer in that control console. I told you I'm dumb, LOL. I only know chemical treatment. This is a learning curve.

One reviewer of the Circupool said he put in 200 lbs of salt at start up. Is that legit? I hope that's not a recurring thing. What kind of salt do you use for pools? Also, how many hours a day does the pump have to run? I have never run my pump more than 2 hours a day, and always have sparkling clear water. It's a single speed pump, and it circulates the water very well.

 

[mknauss]

says it produces chlorine as TRICHLOR.

They equate it to the amount of trichlor you would need to use to create the same amount of chlorine added. Read SWG How It Works - Further Reading

he put in 200 lbs of salt at start up. Is that legit?

You would need to add enough salt to get the salinity of your water to about 3500 ppm. You would then only need to add salt when you remove water and fill with fresh or if the pool overflows due to rain.

You would likely have to run the pump more than 2 hours. With a T15, the pump would likely have to run 8 hours or so a day during swim season.

Amazing you can run the pump 2 hours and be OK. I cannot see how the trichlor tablets could dissolve fast enough to keep the FC high enough.

 

[Mdragger88]

As for the salt - you would need to test your water’s salinity before adding any. All forms of manually added chlorine add salt to the water. You might be surprised how much you already have.

 

[Shapshftr]

They equate it to the amount of trichlor you would need to use to create the same amount of chlorine added. Read SWG How It Works - Further Reading


You would need to add enough salt to get the salinity of your water to about 3500 ppm. You would then only need to add salt when you remove water and fill with fresh or if the pool overflows due to rain.

You would likely have to run the pump more than 2 hours. With a T15, the pump would likely have to run 8 hours or so a day during swim season.

Amazing you can run the pump 2 hours and be OK. I cannot see how the trichlor tablets could dissolve fast enough to keep the FC high enough.

So that was poor wording on their part. It's equivalent to that much, but not Trichlor. That makes sense more now. I have always just kept three, 3" tabs in both the automatic and floating chlorinator. I always keep a floater in the pool for when the pump isn't running. Years ago I had the Hayward auto chlorinator and only ran the pump 1 hour a day. On Saturdays I would just turn the auto one all the way to high and run it for an hour to get it to shock level. But now I have a timer that only goes as low as 2 hours, so that's what I do. With the stupid Vision2 chlorinator I have now, which also uses a silver cartridge, it kept the pool clean and clear at only 1 ppm chlorine, 2 hours a day. But I stopped using the silver and just turned it up higher to keep it at 3 ppm. I never felt comfortable with the FC so low, even though it stayed clear. And with periodic shocking all has been fine. I guess I should have kept using the silver, and kept it turned down lower so it didn't put as much CYA in the water.

I think another problem is that I stopped draining the pool below the skimmer for closing, to save on my well pump. I use a skimmer cover and return plug to keep the pool full over winter. So now I'm not letting out hardly any water (only to backwash) and refilling. That was probably what kept my CYA level ok for all those past years. I never considered that when I started using the cover and plug. Live and learn I guess.

 

[Shapshftr]

As for the salt - you would need to test your water’s salinity before adding any. All forms of manually added chlorine add salt to the water. You might be surprised how much you already have.

Good to know. There's one Hayward SWCG that says it uses less salt too.

"AquaRite S3 has an ultra-wide range of operation for salt concentration—as low as 800 parts per million (ppm) of salt."

That's quite a range of salt, 800 up to 8000 ppm.

 

[mknauss]

At the lower salt level, it creates less chlorine. So the unit would have to run more.