jandy aqualink Fuse blown issues control panel / pump not working

[PATELER]

Hello All,

New to this site. Would welcome any help with my Jandy Aqualink system.

I have a Aqualink system (about 10 years old). bought the home with this. it's got a aquiline with PDA controller. pool and Spa. (have filter pump/boosterpump/airblower for the spa/polaris pump/heater-just replaced a week ago JXI 400)

All of a sudden; my Power control center doesn't function/no lights. And Hence; no running motor.

I did the following and read the troubleshooting manual and read a bunch of blogs and left clueless and puzzled. This is what I did thus far.
1. Checked breakers in the house and at the pool control center: good.
2. opened up the power control center and checked all connections. good.
3. the Salt cell display lights up so there is power there.
4. Checked power coming into the transformer and out and the out is reading 25V.(got a volt meter to check) good.
5. 3.15 amp is blown. I replaced the 3.15amp fuse with a 3 amp buss fuse and it keeps blowing. (( this is where i'm left puzzled and not sure what to do. The manual states to replace the chip relay driver. which i just ordered today; but doubtful it will work. )). The more blogs I read; i'm thinking i'm going to have to get about 10; 3 amp fuses and disconnect all and plug each one in one by one. ((any thoughts on this)). also just thinking outloud but do anyone think the JVA would cause this issue. and lastly would I need to get a new board or send it to the engineering that made it (http://www.bpelectronics.com)

Would love to get peoples insight on this. and greatly appreciate any help.

Regards
Deep

 

[PoolGate]

You are doing most of the steps an electrician would do. Make sure to engage Jandy tech support but they may refuse to help since you are not an electrician and your box is out of warranty. If you cannot figure it out it will probably be cheaper to replace it all rather than hire a professional to troubleshoot it further that is if you feel confident tackling that job. Total system replacement will run $1000 or so depending on your options. Meanwhile, make sure you add liquid chlorine (bleach) until your SWCG is back online and perhaps use a small submersible sump pump to keep the water circulating.

 

[kadavis]

Try unplugging all the JVA first then try and see if it blows

 

[PATELER]

Thank you guys for your advise.

I played with doing a total disconnect of all the relays and plugged each one in one by one. Isolated the problem to the JVA. now I have two JVA's and trying to figure out whats an JVA intake vs return since i think i mixed up the wires. I left both disconnected since it's on pool mode. (figured i wouldn't use the spa mode untill I get the JVA 2444 sorted out.

Now in terms of the JVA. would someone think it's just advisable to switch out the JVA 2444 or try to open the malfunctioned one and figure whats going on? is electrical shortages common with JVA's??

Thanks once again.

 

[PoolGate]

Thank you guys for your advise.

I played with doing a total disconnect of all the relays and plugged each one in one by one. Isolated the problem to the JVA. now I have two JVA's and trying to figure out whats an JVA intake vs return since i think i mixed up the wires. I left both disconnected since it's on pool mode. (figured i wouldn't use the spa mode untill I get the JVA 2444 sorted out.

Now in terms of the JVA. would someone think it's just advisable to switch out the JVA 2444 or try to open the malfunctioned one and figure whats going on? is electrical shortages common with JVA's??

Thanks once again.

The JVA's have a switch on the bottom for manual activation but they need power for that to work. You can also remove the valve and operate the valve manually but you would need the shorter screws that came with the valve not sure your builder left them or not. The JVAs are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace so I would just replace it.