Installed a Calimar CMARVSP3.0and Aquastar Pipeline PLF35000 Filter

[Only_Blue_Pools]

Just wanted to post that e few months ago I decided to upgrade out of the old Sta-Rite single stage pump and filter that came with the house I purchased. Took me about 8 hours to remove the old pump and filter and install the new one. But that included expanding the cement platforms they were on. So far it's been great. I programmed the pump on a schedule and let it do it's thing. The Pipeline filter is much more convenient to open and close. Wish it was a higher surface area filter but even if I have to do more frequent cleanings it should go much faster. I placed a PVC shutoff valve at the filters output and directed it towards the closest storm drain. Should make cleaning a breeze compared to the old Sta-Rite.

Here are some before and after pictures:

 

[FLOMOPOOL]

Hmm...

The suction side pump inlet pipe should be at least 5x the diameter of the pipe used. For example, if the pipe diameter is 2", its length should be at least 10" (longer is better - I prefer at least a 12" piece of pipe there). Likewise, the 90 degree elbow off the pressure side of the pump needs a bit of length as well, all this so as to not reduce the flows into and out of these connections. Fewer 90s is always better as well.

 

[PoolStored]

The suction side pump inlet pipe should be at least 5x the diameter of the pipe used. For example, if the pipe diameter is 2", its length should be at least 10" (longer is better - I prefer at least a 12" piece of pipe there). Likewise, the 90 degree elbow off the pressure side of the pump needs a bit of length as well, all this so as to not reduce the flows into and out of these connections. Fewer 90s is always better as well.

The pipe in front of the pump has little bearing on cavitation or any other issues with pumps. It is something that is recommended in the water distribution industry where the pumps are much larger and much more prone to cavitation and they don't use a pump basket so the flow into the impeller is directly related to the plumbing attached to the impeller inlet.

A residential pool pump has a pump basket which completely changes the fluid dynamics into the impeller inlet so the plumbing ahead of the basket has little impact to the flow dynamics other than head loss. Plus the turbulence in a typical pump basket overwhelms any benefit that a straight piece of pipe might have. Although some pump manufactures continue to recommend it for residential pool pumps, there is little evidence that it makes any difference at all. Most installers of pumps ignore this recommendation without any deleterious effects whatsoever. I would make the straight piece as long as you can but don't get overly concerned about it and don't add any extra fittings to get a longer piece either.

 

[jim.wilson01]

I do not disagree with your points, however, the pump mfg manual is pretty clear for the pump setup. They don't want and elbows fittings. Straight pipe 5 x the Dia.

 

[wireform]

I would recommend since the pictures don't demonstrate any hindrance on the pressure side that I'd come up higher say 12" before the first elbow.

 

[PoolStored]

I do not disagree with your points, however, the pump mfg manual is pretty clear for the pump setup. They don't want and elbows fittings. Straight pipe 5 x the Dia.

Red pill, blue pill. Your choice. If it helps you sleep better, I'm all for it!

Without air leaks, what is your concern, WRT the pump, of having a straight run. Sus it out.

I can't enumerate the number of times manufacturers default to dogma. Heaters, pumps, CH levels, TA levels, salt levels in AGPs...

 

[Newdude]

...... wanting me to acid wash my SWG every 3 months, when I have no calcium to foul it up in the first place..............

But the 'mfr is clear'. So clear that it's stamped right on my cell to acid wash it every 3 months.


That said, if you have or can easily make the room, by all means use it. If not, they've been putting hard 90s before pool pumps since ever.