Yes, the V is for Viton.
Hayward pump shaft seal leak after 3 days of new motor install/replacement
- Thread starter dealdoug
- Start date
Well that's not good since that's what I used the last time and still leaking
I have another 201cv I guess I can try. I noticed the Hayward instructions above seem to mention using dilute soap and water to lubricate the seal installation. Is that correct? Otherwise I'll try to find the "seal lube" mentioned by an expert above.
Last edited:
- Dec 13, 2020
- 899
- Pool Size
- 19600
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Some thoughts:
If you have or can borrow a dial gauge with stand, check shaft end play and runout. Normally the first should be no more than .005". The second .001". Excess in either one can cause seal failure. New motors can be bad, unfortunately.
Otherwise it sure sounds like the new motor is different from the old on some dimension. The fact that you can re-install the old motor to stop the leak is nearly a smoking gun.
Here's an approach to troubleshoot. Put each motor on the flattest surface you can find. If needed, shim so the shaft is parallel. Then use an accurate square to project the key dimensions down onto the surface and make a pencil mark: mounting surface, bearing and journal locations, shaft length, whatever could affect the way the seal works. Then compare the pencil marks between motors.
You can also make comparative measurements with a digital caliper for things that can't be projected down in this manner: insets, groove depths, etc.
Look for differences. If you find any, it's likely the motor isn't a proper replacement. Or maybe it has a manufacturing flaw.
If you have or can borrow a dial gauge with stand, check shaft end play and runout. Normally the first should be no more than .005". The second .001". Excess in either one can cause seal failure. New motors can be bad, unfortunately.
Otherwise it sure sounds like the new motor is different from the old on some dimension. The fact that you can re-install the old motor to stop the leak is nearly a smoking gun.
Here's an approach to troubleshoot. Put each motor on the flattest surface you can find. If needed, shim so the shaft is parallel. Then use an accurate square to project the key dimensions down onto the surface and make a pencil mark: mounting surface, bearing and journal locations, shaft length, whatever could affect the way the seal works. Then compare the pencil marks between motors.
You can also make comparative measurements with a digital caliper for things that can't be projected down in this manner: insets, groove depths, etc.
Look for differences. If you find any, it's likely the motor isn't a proper replacement. Or maybe it has a manufacturing flaw.
Thanks for the great idea for measuring. I don't have access to the dial guage but certainly I can try the other stuff.
That works.Well that's not good since that's what I used the last time and still leaking
I have another 201cv I guess I can try. I noticed the Hayward instructions above seem to mention using dilute soap and water to lubricate the seal installation. Is that correct? Otherwise I'll try to find the "seal lube" mentioned by an expert above.
I like to use a small bead of silicone sealant on the rubber cup the ceramic portion is in to help it slide into the sealplate and then form a more positive seal.
Or any pool lube can be used, sparingly, as well. That's what I've used for years with no problems, on the impeller shaft to allow the bellows portion to seal against it and slide into place.
So confusing. I have always used a little silicone lube, magic lube or Lube Tube but many sites, posts and videos say no silicone or teflon should be used others show silicone or others being used. Some say a water based lubricant. I thought maybe that was an issue on my installation. The hayward instructions say lubricate but only mention soapy water. Thanks for your response just trying to eliminate potential issues.
About 25 years ago, more or less, manufacturers started using silicone on the ceramic portion's cup as it is installed into the sealplate (or impeller in the case of a Whisperflo/Intelliflo/Polaris, etc). On the Whisperflo/Intelliflo and Polaris pumps, and others, that use a PS1000 seal, it is also used on the bellows portion to seal the metal housing into the sealplate/bracket.
Just keep it of the sealing face of the seal, just like any lubricant, and you should be good if you use it.
Ok, So checked again this morning and leaking very very little but it is still leaking. When I dissaembled this is what the ceramic looked like. Am I wrong that it doesnt look like the shaft is tracking ture? I don't have access to dial guage as someone suggested. I did check shaft lenghts and both motors appear to be the same. PS It looks gouged but surface seems smooth just a biuld up of something.
Attachments
Get the good seal (PS-3868) and use seal lube to install the seals.
The seal plate might be damaged.
If the hole for the ceramic seal with the rubber cup is not tight and smooth, you might need to replace the seal plate.
The seal plate might be damaged.
If the hole for the ceramic seal with the rubber cup is not tight and smooth, you might need to replace the seal plate.
It looks like the pump ran dry at some point for long enough to overheat both the seal and sealplate. The pressure from the spring on the seal bellows will force the ceramic portion farther into the somewhat melted sealplate changing the dimension. Best I can do from a picture and 3000 miles.
So the ps-3868 lasted a day and a half. Took it apart and almost looked like carbon seal on the spring wore unevenly. There was a little color on the white seal but not real bad. I guess maybe the backplate? It doesn't look warped but it is very worn. I do have a spare so I will try that. Can I get a discount on a case of seals?
So the situation continues to get stranger. I replaced the seal plate with another I had and reassembled. The pump ran 2 days @ 7hrs each without leaking. However after the pump had been shut off on the second day for a little while I noticed a small amount of water under the drain of the mounting plate. I dried it up and ran the pump for 30 minutes and no apparent leak. Checked it again after it had been off and no puddle. I think this pump is possessed! Oh well.So the ps-3868 lasted a day and a half. Took it apart and almost looked like carbon seal on the spring wore unevenly. There was a little color on the white seal but not real bad. I guess maybe the backplate? It doesn't look warped but it is very worn. I do have a spare so I will try that. Can I get a discount on a case of seals?
So for third day no leaks while running but a little burp of a few drops when it shuts off for the day. Could this be something similar to when pump basket or suction side leaks will show momentary leak when pump stops? I appreciate all the good ideas. If you have any left let me know. Thanks
Seems like between motor and mounting bracket or mounting bracket drain hole.
Something is off, but I don't know what it is.
You have been very thorough in going over everything.
I will keep thinking about it and try to figure out what it might be.
You have been very thorough in going over everything.
I will keep thinking about it and try to figure out what it might be.