Can't kill the algae!!!

[Mirrage730]

Hi all,

We moved into a new home here in Arizona in February and, as many homes here do, it came with a pool. I've owned homes with a pool before, but this is my first time owning one so complex.

When we moved in, there were several issues we had repaired on the pool (valve replacements, a motor was replaced on the heater and several other smaller issues). The pool is 13,380 gallons between the pool and spa (with spillover) with a pebble tec interior, it also has a waterfall.

The pool was easy to take care of during the cooler months, but after it was drained and the bond beam was cut off and repaired (several parts had fallen off from the previous owner), I haven't been able to keep it properly balanced. It's my suspicion that the pool guy who did the work adjusted several of the valves for the maintenance and never readjusted them, as I just found out that the jets weren't even running and circulating the pool and now I've realized that the Paramount SDX units on the walls don't seem to do anything and neither does the MDX in the middle of the pool or the spa. Despite my pool vacuum's best attempts (a brand new Hayward Phoenix) and my efforts of getting out there and scrubbing it every day, along with plenty of shock, tablet chlorine, algaecide, etc. it seems to look worse every day. FWIW, I don't think I've ever gotten the spa to look good, it doesn't clean itself whatsoever and when the filter is turned to pull suction into it, instead of actually pulling things down the Paramount MDX in the floor, it just drains half the water into the pool...

I've only ever worked on a single-motor pool before and the controls for this pool are WAY more complex than I've ever had to deal with. My wife wants to just hire someone to take care of the pool at this point, but I feel like it shouldn't be this hard to maintain, I've never had a pool look like a lagoon until now and, to be complete honest, I'm stubborn and just don't want to give up on it so easily LOL! My problem is, while a lot of the valves seem to be marked with their function, many of them aren't. Most of my understanding of the pool has been through trial and error, but I also don't want to mess anything up by just willy-nilly turning things.

Should I just give up and hire someone? I really just want to know how to work this thing, but I feel like at this point, I need a professional to show me!

For reference, here's a picture of my equipment:

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Well, that IS quite the array of controls you have there. Not to worry, together we can help. But let's clarify some things:
- No pool service or pool store junk. Algaecides won't kill algae, and a pool tech once a week visit is a waste of your $$$. To kill algae you need to follow the SLAM Process by using one of the recommended test kits. See Test Kits Compared. My vote is for the TF-100.
- We need to see a full set of accurate test results via a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C.
- Try to focus on adjusting your 3-way valves for good overall circulation in the pool and spa during the SLAM Process and we can always help you with fine-tuning adjustments later. We may ask for more pics later as well since we can't seem to zoom-in on this image.

 

[wireform]

Welcome to TFP!
But let's clarify some things:
- No pool service or pool store junk. Algaecides won't kill algae, and a pool tech once a week visit is a waste of your $$$.

Algaecides don't kill algae but it'll kill your filtration system guaranteed.

 

[Mirrage730]

Welcome to TFP! Well, that IS quite the array of controls you have there. Not to worry, together we can help. But let's clarify some things:
- No pool service or pool store junk. Algaecides won't kill algae, and a pool tech once a week visit is a waste of your $$$. To kill algae you need to follow the SLAM Process by using one of the recommended test kits. See Test Kits Compared. My vote is for the TF-100.
- We need to see a full set of accurate test results via a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C.
- Try to focus on adjusting your 3-way valves for good overall circulation in the pool and spa during the SLAM Process and we can always help you with fine-tuning adjustments later. We may ask for more pics later as well since we can't seem to zoom-in on this image.

Hmm, I'll have to check out those test kits. I already have three (one I had previously and two the owners of the new home left) :

5-Way Swimming Pool and Spa Test Kit-62364 - The Home Depot - This is the one I've mostly been using (the one I've used on previous pools and spas we've owned)
Clorox Pool&Spa 3-Way Test Kit, Reagent Testing Kit For Swimming Pool Use - Walmart.com - The previous owners left this
Amazon.com : Pentair R151186 78HR All in One 4 Way pH and Chlorine Test Kit : Swimming Pool Liquid Test Kits : Garden & Outdoor - They also left this

The TF-100 definitely looks like it does a lot more. I assume it's more accurate?

My readings from the HDX kit this morning were:

Chlorine: Between 1.0 and 2.0
Bromine: 2.2
pH: 7.2
Alkalinity: 50

This is essentially what I've had for the past two weeks or so. Levels are definitely low (pH seems decent), but I suspect it's because the pool isn't circulating enough in the time it's running (~6 hours a day).

I've attached some more pictures of the equipment and the pool itself. I was playing with the valves earlier and still couldn't get anymore suction out of the drains on the bottom of the pool or spa. I don't know if those SDX side units are supposed to be doing anything (I've never had those in a pool), but I assume they're used for the filtration system? They aren't pulling anything whatsoever, the drain on the bottom of the pool and spa only has a TINY bit of suction and will pull things in if I manually place them into the cone, but otherwise, it's not pulling enough water to really do anything useful.

I suspect that the guy that drained our pool changed a lot of the settings on the valves before they did the work on the bond beam and never turned anything back, because the pool was perfectly balanced between December and April with minimal effort. After the work was done, I can dissolve like 12 tablets a week in the pool and it doesn't seem to help a bit. Most of the valves on the equipment are marked, but don't necessarily control what I'd expect them to, haha.

That spa has been a constant battle, however. The entire time we've lived in this house, it's never cleaned itself. I just assumed it was because quite a bit of the equipment from it needed work when we took ownership, but even after the repairs, it still just continues to hold dirt like crazy. Turning on the jets and bubbles turns it into a mud bath

 

[Mirrage730]

Here's a few more pictures of the actual pool and spa (and it's lovely green algae ), plus the Chlorine, Bromine & pH readings (probably not super useful since I'm sure the colors a bit skewed from the photo). Also - good to know on the algaecide. I've never used it before but the previous owners left it and... desperate measures

 

[Texas Splash]

Yes, the TF-100 is the gold standard and will serve you well. To prevent algae, you must have an accurate CYA test, and the TF-100 does a good job helping with that. Once you know the CYA, then you can go to the FC/CYA Levels to see what FC level you should be at. An FC of 1-2 ppm is way too low, and if you are still using chlorine tabs (pucks) your CYA may already be extremely high. Take a peek at that FC/CYA Levels to see what I mean. To remove algae we follow the SLAM Process, but you'll need that TF-100.

For the valves ... woo! I'm getting dizzy looking at all of those. Just take it slowly starting at the pump intake. Adjust your intake (suction) valves so that most of the water is from the pool skimmer. You can also pull some water from the spa, or program the suction as you need to if that is an option. Main drain suction is okay, but not required to be the strongest source unless you are just brushing dirt into the drain. I would keep any other cleaning valves off for now until you get a feel for it all. Maybe leave that Therapies stuff off for now too. Just focus on basic water flow so that you can perform a SLAM Process. Those red handle gate valves above the pumps are just a convenient way to blow-out water to WASTE and bypassing the filter.

Remember, the proper amount of liquid chlorine applied during the SLAM Process is the best way to kill and remove algae. The TF-100 is key though. If you can get the magnetic speedstir, I would recommend that as well.

 

[Mirrage730]

Yes, the TF-100 is the gold standard and will serve you well. To prevent algae, you must have an accurate CYA test, and the TF-100 does a good job helping with that. Once you know the CYA, then you can go to the FC/CYA Levels to see what FC level you should be at. An FC of 1-2 ppm is way too low, and if you are still using chlorine tabs (pucks) your CYA may already be extremely high. Take a peek at that FC/CYA Levels to see what I mean. To remove algae we follow the SLAM Process, but you'll need that TF-100.

For the valves ... woo! I'm getting dizzy looking at all of those. Just take it slowly starting at the pump intake. Adjust your intake (suction) valves so that most of the water is from the pool skimmer. You can also pull some water from the spa, or program the suction as you need to if that is an option. Main drain suction is okay, but not required to be the strongest source unless you are just brushing dirt into the drain. I would keep any other cleaning valves off for now until you get a feel for it all. Maybe leave that Therapies stuff off for now too. Just focus on basic water flow so that you can perform a SLAM Process. Those red handle gate valves above the pumps are just a convenient way to blow-out water to WASTE and bypassing the filter.

Remember, the proper amount of liquid chlorine applied during the SLAM Process is the best way to kill and remove algae. The TF-100 is key though. If you can get the magnetic speedstir, I would recommend that as well.

Ok, cool. I'll definitely put in an order for the TF-100, then. What other materials might I need (now or later for maintenance)? It looks like a lot of liquid chlorine is needed. I currently have (3) 2-quart bottles (64 fl oz) of Clorox liquid bleach concentrate (8.25%). Liquid chlorine near me is super expensive compared to bleach last time I checked (~$14/gallon), obviously it's higher concentrate, but I could buy a lot of bleach for that much Should I buy more of the larger less concentrated bottles at the store before starting a SLAM (121 fl oz - 6% concentrate)? I also have a full bucket (60lbs) of chlorine tablets, a box (~20 packs left) of Clorox granulated shock, a bottle of pH Up & pH Down powder and a half bottle of flocculant

Would the skimmer suction control the drain, as well? I can't seem to figure out any combination of turning of valves to get them to work. I know it originally worked, because our old vacuum would get stuck every time it went over it. Now it seems to do nothing. I'm not super worried about the one in the pool, as circulation seems to be somewhat better now that I figured out that the jets weren't actually on, but the only way the spa can clean itself is through those drains, so if they're not working there, it just fills up with dirt during our dust storms and brushing while the spillover is running doesn't move enough water into the pool for the dirt to go away, so it's just compounding itself The only thing I've been able to figure out is how to control suction to the skimmer or the vacuum and I'm afraid to start turning valves that aren't marked LOL!

I do use the chlorine tablets. Should I not be?? I've never not used them in a pool, I assume they're required as the stabilizer for CYA levels?

 

[Texas Splash]

Put the tabs, floc, and other pool store potions away in storage. No more tabs. You might use the tabs at a future date if you go out of town. For now, it's all about liquid chlorine. Stay away from the Clorox bleach. They added fabric polymers to the ingredients that can mess with the chemistry. There's a thread here at TFP about where to buy chlorine. You should check that out for good deals in your area. Earlier this morning some guys next door in Phx were discussing options. But you want several gallons of liquid chlorine. I used to get mine at Home Depot in their outdoor pool section (3-packs), but Walmart also has liquid chlorine for now. You will need some muriatic acid. I get mine at Home Depot as well (31.5% strength) to lower the pH as needed. Pre-SLAM is 7.2 pH. Other than that, just wait until you get your TF-100. Always use YOUR testing results. If you have a question about the testing, we can clarify.

For your main suction, travel backwards and follow that pipe from the sand filter back to the main pump. Then continue to the pump intake and it looks like there is a spa actuator valve there. Even with all the pics it's hard for me to follow. But going into the front intake of that pump I believe there is a combination of a spa actuator and 1 or 2 manual 3-way valves. You'll have to keep poking around until you get the right combination of settings to open the skimmer and maybe a little main drain. If you don't get it soon, I'll tag another person to help us break that system down. Also check in the bottom of your poolside skimmer for a diverter disc that sometimes covers the holes in the bottom. Not all skimmer have them, but yours might.

 

[mknauss]

Liquid chlorine near me is super expensive compared to bleach last time I checked

HASA | High Performance & Premium Industrial Water Treatment

HASA has been an industry-leading producer of liquid sodium hypochlorite (commonly known as bleach)—the preferred sanitizer for commercial and industrial water—for the past 55 years.

hasapool.com

Check with them for a dealer near you. Liquid chlorine comes in 4 gallon crates of returnable bottles. Competitive with Walmart/Home Depot.

 

[Mirrage730]

Put the tabs, floc, and other pool store potions away in storage. No more tabs. You might use the tabs at a future date if you go out of town. For now, it's all about liquid chlorine. Stay away from the Clorox bleach. They added fabric polymers to the ingredients that can mess with the chemistry. There's a thread here at TFP about where to buy chlorine. You should check that out for good deals in your area. Earlier this morning some guys next door in Phx were discussing options. But you want several gallons of liquid chlorine. I used to get mine at Home Depot in their outdoor pool section (3-packs), but Walmart also has liquid chlorine for now. You will need some muriatic acid. I get mine at Home Depot as well (31.5% strength) to lower the pH as needed. Pre-SLAM is 7.2 pH. Other than that, just wait until you get your TF-100. Always use YOUR testing results. If you have a question about the testing, we can clarify.

For your main suction, travel backwards and follow that pipe from the sand filter back to the main pump. Then continue to the pump intake and it looks like there is a spa actuator valve there. Even with all the pics it's hard for me to follow. But going into the front intake of that pump I believe there is a combination of a spa actuator and 1 or 2 manual 3-way valves. You'll have to keep poking around until you get the right combination of settings to open the skimmer and maybe a little main drain. If you don't get it soon, I'll tag another person to help us break that system down. Also check in the bottom of your poolside skimmer for a diverter disc that sometimes covers the holes in the bottom. Not all skimmer have them, but yours might.

Ok, I'll see if I can find some better chlorine then!

Interesting - I must've just got super lucky with my old pool. Owned it for 15 years and always used tabs. I think I drained it maybe once. The only time I'd get algae was after a big storm. I'd throw a little shock in and it'd be good as new in 1-2 days Is it different with a sand filter? The old one was DE. I've actually never heard of anyone using liquid chlorine as a sanitizer to their pool until now, only to get levels up after a drain

Will do, I'll spend some more time tomorrow with it and see if I can figure it out. I did mostly what you described and was able to get some better circulation and suction out of it, but still nothing out of those drains.

HASA | High Performance & Premium Industrial Water Treatment

HASA has been an industry-leading producer of liquid sodium hypochlorite (commonly known as bleach)—the preferred sanitizer for commercial and industrial water—for the past 55 years.

hasapool.com

Check with them for a dealer near you. Liquid chlorine comes in 4 gallon crates of returnable bottles. Competitive with Walmart/Home Depot.

Awesome, will do!

 

[Texas Splash]

I suspect you were just extremely lucky before. Tabs may seem convenient, but as mentioned they add stabilizer to the point a water exchange is required. Liquid chlorine and regular bleach don't do that, but they do need to be added each day. We feed our pools just like a pet - everyday. The exception would be a pool owners who converts to a salt water generator or liquid dispensing system. Monosson season is just around the corner for you guys, but you should never get a green pool just from rain either. Once you get the water balanced, you'll notice a big difference.

 

[proavia]

Not sure exactly where in Mesa you are, but there are 2 A&M Corsons in Mesa that have Hasa 12.5% chlorine and 31.45% muriatic acid. I believe the chlorine 4 pack of 1 gallon refillable jugs are about $16 or $17. Also, Walmart has Pool Essentials 10% chlorinating liquid for about $3.64/gallon. Likewise - Lowes, Home Depot and Ace have 10% liquid chlorine for under $4/gallon. On the Walmart, Lowes, HD and Ace bottles/boxes - check the date code for freshness...... 20180 was bottled in late June - you want the freshest you can find.

In addition to the TF-100, consider ordering a Speedstir as it will help with consistent testing.

While waiting for your test kit, add 5ppm of liquid chlorine daily to keep the algae from getting worse. Post a full set of test results when your kit arrives.

 

[Mirrage730]

I suspect you were just extremely lucky before. Tabs may seem convenient, but as mentioned they add stabilizer to the point a water exchange is required. Liquid chlorine and regular bleach don't do that, but they do need to be added each day. We feed our pools just like a pet - everyday. The exception would be a pool owners who converts to a salt water generator or liquid dispensing system. Monosson season is just around the corner for you guys, but you should never get a green pool just from rain either. Once you get the water balanced, you'll notice a big difference.

Yeah, I never got a green pool from the rain specifically, it was more the dust storm (Haboob) that comes before the rain that did it I assume chlorine consumption will lower as it gets cooler outside? I saw a post by someone else in Arizona that said that they're adding 3/4 gallon of chlorine to their pool a day during the summer, which seems like it'll get expensive super quick if that's sustained throughout the year. Some people mentioned utilizing tabs with liquid in AZ since our summers are so hot and the pools eat chlorine quickly? Either way, even if I have to put 3/4 G in every day for 365 days, it's still cheaper than spending $1200/year on a pool guy to come out once a week. My wife is just super hesitant to do it ourselves and not use tabs because all of our neighbors use a service and "their pools aren't green" Mostly the thing that scares me about liquid is the shelf life. Especially right now, I really just don't want to be out shopping if I don't need to be because people in this state are crazy and the coronavirus numbers just keep rising.

I just put in my order for the TF-100 bundle with the Speedstir, Skimmer Angel and Wall Whale. Figured the latter two would come in handy (my wife, especially, has troubles brushing the pool and keeping it against the wall, so the wall whale will probably be awesome for her), so it was worth the extra cost! Hopefully shipping is quick!

Not sure exactly where in Mesa you are, but there are 2 A&M Corsons in Mesa that have Hasa 12.5% chlorine and 31.45% muriatic acid. I believe the chlorine 4 pack of 1 gallon refillable jugs are about $16 or $17. Also, Walmart has Pool Essentials 10% chlorinating liquid for about $3.64/gallon. Likewise - Lowes, Home Depot and Ace have 10% liquid chlorine for under $4/gallon. On the Walmart, Lowes, HD and Ace bottles/boxes - check the date code for freshness...... 20180 was bottled in late June - you want the freshest you can find.

In addition to the TF-100, consider ordering a Speedstir as it will help with consistent testing.

While waiting for your test kit, add 5ppm of liquid chlorine daily to keep the algae from getting worse. Post a full set of test results when your kit arrives.

We're in far East Mesa. It looks like there's two wholesalers close to me - Superior Pool Products and Cloud Pool Supply. I assume I can just walk in as a retail customer and buy a bunch?

If I store it indoor, could I get away with buying more and it degrading less over time? I don't just want to buy 4 bottles and have to go back every week, especially right now.

 

[Mirrage730]

For your main suction, travel backwards and follow that pipe from the sand filter back to the main pump. Then continue to the pump intake and it looks like there is a spa actuator valve there. Even with all the pics it's hard for me to follow. But going into the front intake of that pump I believe there is a combination of a spa actuator and 1 or 2 manual 3-way valves. You'll have to keep poking around until you get the right combination of settings to open the skimmer and maybe a little main drain. If you don't get it soon, I'll tag another person to help us break that system down. Also check in the bottom of your poolside skimmer for a diverter disc that sometimes covers the holes in the bottom. Not all skimmer have them, but yours might.

So, as a follow-up. I went out this morning to see the current state of the pool after I adjusted everything yesterday and the spa had drained a good foot and is looking quite green (the pool actually looks less green today, though...):



I started playing with this valve to see if I could get the water level to rise (I had it set completely open from yesterday) and also see if I could get those drains working, since I could actually stand in the spa without getting completely wet:



Originally I had turned it clockwise, so the "closed" position was pointed at about 2 o'clock and the level dropped even more and then eventually stabilized here (it's greener because I brushed everything), it did seem to give me a slight bit more suction at the drain, but not much - either that or I just perceived a slight increase LOL:



So I turned it to 10 o'clock as it is in the picture and it kept going:



I eventually stopped it here and turned the pool filter back on, because the pool was then at a super high level (about 3-4 inches higher than it should be):



And after about 5 minutes, it had already filled the spa back up to here:



It's now completely full again and the water between the two is balanced. The pool guy that did work on it before had told us that one of the valves was broken and he had to replace it as it was causing the spa to drain like this... but assuming the valve is working correctly now, I don't see why it would be doing this...?

To get a better picture of how everything is run and where I currently have everything set, I made a quick video you can look at here:

Derek shared 1 video with you

www.amazon.com

FWIW, that valve off the filter that currently has the side marked "Spa Therapies" with Spa and Pool Returns on the other side doesn't turn. It has no lock on it, either. This looks like an automated box, like the valve that switches between the pool/spa filter, but I've pressed all the buttons on the controller and it never turns? Any suggestions would be awesome - I'd like to get this thing actually working mechanically before I waste a bunch of money on chemicals and an unable to rebalance it because it's not working properly

 

[Texas Splash]

Yes, chlorine use will slow down in the cooler months. While it's still a bit warm in Apr, May and Oct, June - Sept are probably the most intense which require a higher CYA level and corresponding FC level as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. Unless you have a salt generator, liquid chlorine is the best way though. Your water is changing a bit from the small changes you have been doing. It's hard to imagine what it will all look like once you balance the water with your TF-100, but the pool will look completely different.

For now, keep reading those Vital Links in my signature and practice using the PoolMath APP. That will save you lots of time once you get the hang of it.

 

[Mirrage730]

Yes, chlorine use will slow down in the cooler months. While it's still a bit warm in Apr, May and Oct, June - Sept are probably the most intense which require a higher CYA level and corresponding FC level as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. Unless you have a salt generator, liquid chlorine is the best way though. Your water is changing a bit from the small changes you have been doing. It's hard to imagine what it will all look like once you balance the water with your TF-100, but the pool will look completely different.

For now, keep reading those Vital Links in my signature and practice using the PoolMath APP. That will save you lots of time once you get the hang of it.

Sounds good! I actually didn't realize it was so inexpensive to convert to salt water, I always assumed it'd be a complete overhaul that would require replacing 90% of the equipment, it seems less complex than that? Might be something to look into in the future, as the chlorine in most pools bothers with my skin and salt water would be MUCH preferable, I just assumed it was a $10k+ investment to do it on an existing pool. Is salt easier to take care of? I know the salt is harder on the parts.

Will do! Definitely learning a lot. It sounds like I can store a good bit of liquid chlorine according to your links without diluting it too much, that's good. I was afraid I'd have to go to the supply store every week

Any idea on the images I posted above? Now that I've really spent some time playing with all the equipment, it seems less complex than I thought... but WHY things aren't working as expected, I don't know. Obviously, I'm doing something wrong, but it doesn't seem like there's really that many more combinations I could be trying, considering 2/3 pumps aren't even for the filtering system as far as I can tell...

 

[Texas Splash]

Here's a nice comparison page for SWGs just to give you an idea. Remember you always want to get an SWG rated for at least twice the size of your pool. Also keep in mind that chlorine is chlorine, whether it's in liquid form like bleach or gas from an SWG. But many like the feel of the salt pools because of the salt. We just converted this year and like it very much.

Compare and Review Saltwater Chlorine Generator Prices and Features | DSP

www.discountsaltpool.com

As for the equipment and pumps, you're right. It will just take some time and moving a valve here & there to figure it out. Looks like one pump is dedicated to the therapy side, of course the pool, and the other I guess the spa or a cleaner? I couldn't tell. But you'll get it.

 

[Mirrage730]

Here's a nice comparison page for SWGs just to give you an idea. Remember you always want to get an SWG rated for at least twice the size of your pool. Also keep in mind that chlorine is chlorine, whether it's in liquid form like bleach or gas from an SWG. But many like the feel of the salt pools because of the salt. We just converted this year and like it very much.

Compare and Review Saltwater Chlorine Generator Prices and Features | DSP

www.discountsaltpool.com

As for the equipment and pumps, you're right. It will just take some time and moving a valve here & there to figure it out. Looks like one pump is dedicated to the therapy side, of course the pool, and the other I guess the spa or a cleaner? I couldn't tell. But you'll get it.

Awesome, I'll take a look. I remember a friend of mine had their pool installed with a SWG and it was a totally different feel swimming in it. Another friend of ours now has a really awesome salt water pool (probably like 40,000 G with a a huge slide and grotto, it's really cool, haha!) and I LOVE swimming in that pool. Any pool I've ever owned or swam in that was properly chlorinated without the SWG always left my skin feeling sticky to the point where I always feel like I need to shower after swimming I'll definitely have to look into a SWG, I'm sure they've gotten much better since I originally started seeing them put in pools around here ~20 years ago.

As far as I can tell, the one furthest to the left is for the waterfall, the middle is for the therapies and the right pump is for the spa and pool suction.

 

[proavia]

We're in far East Mesa. It looks like there's two wholesalers close to me - Superior Pool Products and Cloud Pool Supply. I assume I can just walk in as a retail customer and buy a bunch?

If I store it indoor, could I get away with buying more and it degrading less over time? I don't just want to buy 4 bottles and have to go back every week, especially right now.

Sorry to say, no. They are wholesalers and will only sell to you if you have a business account there. No retail sales.

There is a Corsons on Val Vista and Southern. There may be other retailers farther east and north too that are more convenient to you. And there is always Walmart, Lowe's, HD, etc. They carry 10% liquid chlorine.

I normally get 2 cases of 4 gallon chlorine and store it in my laundry room. In summer it lasts me about 3 weeks for my 12k pool. In winter I only keep one case on hand and it can easily last me a month.

 

[Mirrage730]

Sorry to say, no. They are wholesalers and will only sell to you if you have a business account there. No retail sales.

There is a Corsons on Val Vista and Southern. There may be other retailers farther east and north too that are more convenient to you. And there is always Walmart, Lowe's, HD, etc. They carry 10% liquid chlorine.

I normally get 2 cases of 4 gallon chlorine and store it in my laundry room. In summer it lasts me about 3 weeks for my 12k pool. In winter I only keep one case on hand and it can easily last me a month.

Well, dang.

Val Vista & Southern is a bit of a drive, but not too bad as long as I'm not making the trip every week (at least while we're not really going out right now). We used to live on Higley & Broadway. Right now, we're right next to Eastmark. I don't see anything on the Hasa website that isn't a wholesaler. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place?

Good to know! That doesn't sound too expensive. Definitely more than tabs, but if I'm calculating right, that's still like 1/4 the cost of hiring a pool guy

Now if I could just get this dang spa to clean itself, once my TF-100 comes in, i think I'll be golden.