Advice on DIY valve replacment

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Cetanorak

Well-known member
Jun 13, 2022
101
Wimberley, TX
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
The recent freeze damaged three ball valves at equipment pad. I had the two severely damaged valves replaced by a local pool company but didn't realize that the "upgraded" Pentair valves would be priced at $150 each ($550 repair job). The last valve (has a hairline crack and very slow seap) that needs to be changed is pictured below. I'm going to try and replace it myself because I can't afford another $300 for a valve replacement. I can clearly cut the incoming PVC pipe below the valve. My question is where to cut and how to joint the new valve to the existing plumbing above the valve, as there is very little pipe between the current ball valve and the T-fitting. Thanks for any advice!

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That is not an easy plumbing job. You have to ream out the old fitting or else redo a lot more plumbing. If you're not experienced at plumbing, I'd leave this job to the professionals.
 
My assumption is that the $550 was for parts and labor. Diverter Valves are anywhere from $70 to $150 depending on the size and type.

You would need to cut the pipe directly above the existing ball valve and then either use a reamer or a heat gun to remove the small length of pipe out of the TEE. You then can insert a new piece of pipe that the new diverter valve can attach to. I would not shorten the pipe below the ball valve until you measure the new short pipe from the TEE and the length of the diverter valve.

The labor charge is justified because there is some work that is needed to ensure it all lines up and no leaks.
 
Can you take a picture to include more of the plumbing, there may be other alternatives in plumbing the setup. As it stands you very well be able to make a MagicMend fitting work in what’s left of the T when you cut it off and build down with a new valve from there. One side of the Magicmend fitting will slip inside the stub of 1.5” PVC and allow you to fabricate the rest of the plumbing from there.

Example here

ETA Another example here
 
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If it was me I would replace that entire manifold with a new one using Jandy valves. You have more than enough room to cut the plumbing off right at the tee going into the pump and right at the 3 valves going down. Those ball valves should be outlawed for pool use.

 
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Newdude said:
I too was hoping it was just a coupler to the left. :(

View attachment 550954

@Cetanorak , would you consider replacing all three suction valves ?
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If it were mine I would bite the bullet avoid, any future headaches and just re-plumb the whole thing with neverlube valves. I don’t quote any repair jobs using anything other than rebuildable valves. Anything else is going to seize up and fail over time.
 
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With the equipment pad sitting lower than the pool, to re-plumb and replace all three ball valves for these three suction pipes (skimmers and main drain) I would need to block the main drains somehow right?
 
Cetanorak said:
With the equipment pad sitting lower than the pool
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Is it close to the same height? Your working level just needs to be above the water level for any of them. (Plugging the skimmers is an east work around if not)
 
Newdude said:
Is it close to the same height? Your working level just needs to be above the water level for any of them. (Plugging the skimmers is an east work around if not)
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Equipment is well below pool level. Would plugging skimmers have any effect on the main drains that are controlled by a separate valve?
 

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Cetanorak said:
Equipment is well below pool level. Would plugging skimmers have any effect on the main drains that are controlled by a separate valve?
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No they wouldn’t. Plugging the skimmers would be mandatory. Also valve off the return side to prevent back flow during work. You could try a main drain test mat in an effort to seal off the drains during work but the best option is to drain the pool or dive it and plug the main drains with a winter plug to seal them off.
 
Count me in as another emphatic echo to replace all 3 valves right now. You will have issues with the other two in time. And replacing all 3 and replumbing to the pump is about as simple as it gets.
 
Cetanorak said:
Equipment is well below pool level.
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Define 'well'. :) It wouldn't be unreasonable to drain 2 feet to be able to work on the equipment pad. On the other hand, it'd be a bit much to drain the whole pool for a valve replacemnet. (But only a matter of time until it's needed anyway).
 
I can’t see how bad the leak is from the picture. If it’s just a drip and money is tight right now then relax and monitor it. You may find it’s worse in a week and then you’ll have to move on it or more than likely you’ll have the same drip in 6 months. If it’s more than a drip forget what I just said.

As far as the repair…If you’re doing this yourself don’t make it any harder than it has to be. Drop
The pool level a couple feet or even drain it if the water is really old. Fresh water never hurt anyone. 😉

Personally I’d use 2 way Jandy’s to do this. They’re significantly more expensive then those ball valves but they’ll be good to go for a very long time. You can find aftermarket stuff that is cheaper but in the event you have a problem with one in the future will you be able to get parts for it? Who knows? With Jandy the answer is almost certainly yes.

I would normally recommend doing all 3 at the same time but since you’re draining I say you should absolutely do all three at the same time.

You might be able to find then somewhere cheaper but this is the value I’m talking about. About $55 a piece on Amazon.
 

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So would I have to completely drain if I'm replacing the main drain valve or is there some other tactic for plugging/blocking the main drains. I know that I've read about mats that can be placed on the drains that would attempt to block flow under the weight of the water above. I've also seen somebody mention (perhaps in jest) to swim down and unscrew the drain covers to then plug the pipes.
 
Cetanorak said:
So would I have to completely drain if I'm replacing the main drain valve or is there some other tactic for plugging/blocking the main drains. I know that I've read about mats that can be placed on the drains that would attempt to block flow under the weight of the water above. I've also seen somebody mention (perhaps in jest) to swim down and unscrew the drain covers to then plug the pipes.
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You’ve pretty well covered it. If you are unable to do a partial drain that gets the water below the level of the pad then your option is to try and use a main drain test mat to block them while working, dive down and plug them with a plug, or fully drain.

Example test mat here. Not sure how effective they really are.
 
I wonder if you could use an internal PVC plug like is used for winterizing to plug the pipe and then remove it after the fitting is glued in place. It seems in theory that this would work.

 
PoolGate said:
I wonder if you could use an internal PVC plug like is used for winterizing to plug the pipe and then remove it after the fitting is glued in place. It seems in theory that this would work.
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Yes, I was beginning to think about similar ideas.

Would that Main Drain Mat work without taking the drain covers off first??
 
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PoolGate said:
I wonder if you could use an internal PVC plug like is used for winterizing to plug the pipe and then remove it after the fitting is glued in place. It seems in theory that this would work.

Click to expand...
I think it may be possible however the neverlube valve narrows where the diverter seals in the housing. I can’t recall if it narrows more than the I.D. of the pipe which could prevent pulling the plug out after installation. It’s certainly worth investigating a little more. You can see it somewhat in the attached pic.

IMG_0575.jpeg
 
Cetanorak said:
The recent freeze damaged three ball valves at equipment pad. I had the two severely damaged valves replaced by a local pool company but didn't realize that the "upgraded" Pentair valves would be priced at $150 each ($550 repair job). The last valve (has a hairline crack and very slow seap) that needs to be changed is pictured below. I'm going to try and replace it myself because I can't afford another $300 for a valve replacement. I can clearly cut the incoming PVC pipe below the valve. My question is where to cut and how to joint the new valve to the existing plumbing above the valve, as there is very little pipe between the current ball valve and the T-fitting. Thanks for any advice!

View attachment 550947
Click to expand...
If it is a valve that controls flow from a skimmer, block the suction pipe in the skimmer with a plug or even a towel pushed tightly into the port, use PlastAid to coat the small crack. Let it set. It will etch into the plastic of the valve body. Remove the plug from the skimmer. It may get you through until the weather warms and it is easier to make the repair.

If you are not going to replumb with Jandy-type valves (which is the best option), cut the pipe flush with the broken valve, glue a 2" pipe extender in the remaining pipe, use a unionized CMP 2-way valve in place of the ball valve. You may have to do a little digging to get clearance.

Custom Molded Products CMP HydroSeal 2" Inside, 2-Way Diverter Valve - 25922-204-000 - INYOPools.com

2-Way Valve with Unions, 2” Socket, Black CPVC, 25922-204-000
www.googleadservices.com www.googleadservices.com

 

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