Lightning Strike knocks out pool equipment + more inside

[getalegup]

I've just lost use of my pool equipment after a lightning strike. No lights will come on my control panel. The pump won't come on. My indoor control panel has no power. The poolside remote has not power. I have done a little sleuthing with the help of some computer engineer friends. We've verified that I can get power from the breaker panel to the filter pump relay in the panel and to the leads attaching to the circuit board in the pic. We jumped the fuse to see if we could get power to the DC "converter" and found no voltage. My friends suggested that replacing EPROMs with multiple prongs has high failure rate. Capacitors with 2 prongs aren't the hardest but take a solder suckers/solder irons/solder, etc and time to identify and replace. So, what advice would you give me, y'all?

1. Replace parts myself:
-I'm not sure whether to start replacing the Jandy circuit board or if it's still made?
-What if I get a new Jandy circuit board and it still doesn't work? I can move on to the next component, right? Relays and pump capacitors if wiring is okay?
-I'm not sure where to buy any of these components so I could use some advice here. I haven't needed to buy anything but cartridge filters and pool lights.

2. Call a pool guy who will charge $172 to take a look:
-Is this guy going to have a bias for replacing equipment? They have to make a living somehow, right?
-Anything I should ask pool guy?

3. Call a pool electrician?
-Maybe most general pool guys just install new stuff and a pool electrician can do a better job finding out what's wrong?

4. If I can't find the parts, then how much of an upgrade should I consider other than my budget? I believe my signature has all the equipment listed, but I attached photos of my equipment.
-Would there be any partial replacement scenarios that would work? It seems having a new variable speed pump and a control panel that has a reliable iPhone app would be preferable and would get me a functional pool.
-From TFPs, it seems Pentair and Hayward brands are popular! Are there any advantages to staying with Hayward equipment?
-I will want to upgrade other parts eventually as they fail such as my pool deck surface and pool surface, too. Longterm, maybe we will add a hot tub/spa? I've got two kids in college currently, so a large loan might scare that Crud out of me!

Let me know what I can do to focus my efforts more on getting to a functional pool again, please?

Thanks in advance!

Inside the control panel. The relay in the upper left relay is where the 2 black power wires attach from the main breaker panel. FYI, the water fill feather stopped working years ago.

Jandy circuit board/panel

Main Pump (It's a tank!)

Cartridge Filter

Booster pump for pressure side cleaner


Automated valve that sends flow to the waterfall

Indoor control panel

Poolside control panel

 

[PoolGate]

Your Aqualink panel is relatively ancient. I would just go on eBay and buy a newer one. The single red 4-wire connection is the tipoff that it is an older version of the board. The pump can be wired directly to see if it still works. Have you contacts your insurance company? That should be a covered event.

 

[ajw22]

Consider getting the iAqualink IQ30-RS which will give you a new board and WiFi app connectivity to your system.

Jandy iAquaLink 3.0 Web Connect Device

#IQ30-RS iAquaLink Web Connect Device Kit

www.tcpoolequipment.com

 

[dblko]

Your Aqualink panel is relatively ancient. I would just go on eBay and buy a newer one. The single red 4-wire connection is the tipoff that it is an older version of the board. The pump can be wired directly to see if it still works. Have you contacts your insurance company? That should be a covered event.

Interesting, has anyone had success with home insurance for this sort of case? With old equipment like that it might be difficult to argue that the failure is due to a lightening strike compare to a normal end of expected service time.

 

[PoolGate]

Interesting, has anyone had success with home insurance for this sort of case? With old equipment like that it might be difficult to argue that the failure is due to a lightening strike compare to a normal end of expected service time.

Most homeowners insurance is replacement value not pro-rated for age. I would think a lot of people have been successful as it is a covered event. Proving lightening damage typically isn't that difficult. But if there are no obvious signs of a lightening strike, it probably wasn't a lightening strike that took it out.

 

[dblko]

I have a similar old board, actually also having trouble with it, so took it out and just shipped to for repairs to "BPEngineering" that was recommended elsewhere on this forum. Will report back how it worked out.
BTW, my board has another small external low-voltage-surge-protection board wired into the red 4-wire terminal before it goes out to the in-house remote, I suppose those might be useful to protect from lightening damage. They seem to be pretty expensive too, considering what looks like just a couple of circuit elements (varistors, capacitors, diods, resistors).

 

[Bugman1401]

I clearly see the AUTO Mode and FILTER PUMP LEDs lit in both pics of the control panel. Try using a jumper across the relay contacts to provide power to your main pump. If that works, then you just need to replace the 24V relay. If that doesn’t work, test the pump capacitor.
FYI, you can get the control boards fixed for ~$150, but it looks like yours works.

 

[getalegup]

I clearly see the AUTO Mode and FILTER PUMP LEDs lit in both pics of the control panel. Try using a jumper across the relay contacts to provide power to your main pump. If that works, then you just need to replace the 24V relay. If that doesn’t work, test the pump capacitor.
FYI, you can get the control boards fixed for ~$150, but it looks like yours works.

That is an old picture. I just had an electrician verify that the control panel is receiving power from the main breaker panel. The control panel appears to be fried.

 

[Bugman1401]

Is there 24VAC coming from the transformer that’s behind the control board?

 

[PoolGate]

Have your electrician write up a proposal that just includes everything that was lightening damaged and see how much this is. I am still thinking an insurance claim.

 

[getalegup]

Is there 24VAC coming from the transformer that’s behind the control board?

I believe we have 240V going to controller to the bottom left relay. He tested 240V across the two black wires. I've followed to the lead to the DC converter on the back of the controller card. The voltage makes it to the fuse but doesn't make it the DC converter chip. I jumped the fuse and still get not voltage from the DC converter chip. I can see how someone could replace some of the components that have two soldered connections to the board, but replacing the EPROMs is prone to failure.

 

[getalegup]

Have your electrician write up a proposal that just includes everything that was lightening damaged and see how much this is. I am still thinking an insurance claim.

We did. Electrician found voltage making it to the controller but not going to any of the pumps or valves. That info is included on our invoice.

 

[Bugman1401]

I believe we have 240V going to controller to the bottom left relay. He tested 240V across the two black wires. I've followed to the lead to the DC converter on the back of the controller card. The voltage makes it to the fuse but doesn't make it the DC converter chip. I jumped the fuse and still get not voltage from the DC converter chip. I can see how someone could replace some of the components that have two soldered connections to the board, but replacing the EPROMs is prone to failure.

You’ve already established 240VAC is going to the relay. Please establish 24VAC is coming out of the transformer. Also, post pics of the DC converter and blown fuse. Get the whole board, both sides.

 

[getalegup]

You’ve already established 240VAC is going to the relay. Please establish 24VAC is coming out of the transformer. Also, post pics of the DC converter and blown fuse. Get the whole board, both sides.

Sorry for the late reply! I managed to bypass the board completely connecting the receiving relay directly to the relay that feeds the pump. That's great as I can get some circulation going and get my pool clean again. I added more photos to help make things clearer. I swear I tested the voltage to and from the transformer awhile ago. Voltage was not making it to the board after the transformer. I replaced the pictured broken fuse and still wasn't working. I had the help of some computer engineers who could trace the circuitry better than I can. However, after their help, I was able to skip the board and wire the pump directly! The surge broke many parts because they found various circuit boards parts that had lost their continuity. Oh well. A new controller is in my future.
Thanks for replying and trying to help me.
Cheers!

 

[getalegup]

So, I posted last month about a lightning strike that caused a surge that broke our control panel. All my existing info is(or s/b) in my signature.

Lightning Strike knocks out pool equipment + more inside

I've just lost use of my pool equipment after a lightning strike. No lights will come on my control panel. The pump won't come on. My indoor control panel has no power. The poolside remote has not power. I have done a little sleuthing with the help of some computer engineer friends. We've...

www.troublefreepool.com

My question is about the reasonableness of this quote:

CMP Powerclean Ultra In Line Chlorinator w/ parts instal & labor $373.54

Pentair Intelliflo VS w/ parts instal & labor $3,025.22

Pentair IntelliCenter I5PS w/o SCG $5,092.00

Tax $700.49

Total $9191.25

We get the $300 rebate for the pump.
We get the 3 year Pentair warranty.
Half down now and rest upon completion.
We are considering changing from BBB method to in-line chlorinator and have the wrong coping for SCG.

Am I missing anything?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Jimrahbe]

Get,

Here is a good site to buy and to use as a reference..

Welcome to Polytec Pools

Your cost to buy an IntelliFlo3 is $1,800.
Your cost to buy an IntelliCenter i5PS (no salt) is $2,260

Free shipping and no tax.

You are making a big mistake not going with a saltwater pool, but that is for another thread.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[getalegup]

Get,

Here is a good site to buy and to use as a reference..

Welcome to Polytec Pools

Your cost to buy an IntelliFlo3 is $1,800.
Your cost to buy an IntelliCenter i5PS (no salt) is $2,260

Free shipping and no tax.

You are making a big mistake not going with a saltwater pool, but that is for another thread.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks for the quick replay.

I have read of the convenience of SCG but we have limestone coping and waterfall. I've read and talked to friends and read on TFP that the acidity will dissolve the limestone, right?

 

[Jimrahbe]

I've read and talked to friends and read on TFP that the acidity will dissolve the limestone, right?

Get,

Most members here don't find that to be true. I doubt you read on TFP, that it does.

Cheap stone will be affected by pool water, whether is it a saltwater pool or not.

Saltwater pools have the same pH range that non-saltwater pools have 7.2 to 7.8.

I have three saltwater pools and have had zero problems. That said, I do not have limestone and have no actual experience with it.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[gingrbredman]

Any idea what the lead time is for the parts? Intelliflo pumps and Intellicenters are not easy to come by these days.

As for pricing, you can calculate the percent markup, but have to make the decision if that is worth it to you, and what someone else quotes as well. Would probably get more than one. Looks like you are moving away from the Jandy to Pentair, will the valves all be tied in to the Intellicenter too?

We are considering changing from BBB method to in-line chlorinator and have the wrong coping for SCG

There really isn't such a thing as the wrong coping for a SWCG. Lower quality flagstone can have issues weather you use a SWCG to chlorinate the pool, or liquid chlorine. In no time, the use of pucks will add salt to the water (and a LOT of CYA or CH), and so will the use of muriatic acid, which you probably use because of the waterfalls. A lot of "chlorine pools" that just take liquid chlorine can have the same salinity as a SW pool in time. What is to blame for the flagstone falling apart then? It is not the way you generate the chlorine, it is the coping that is the issue, the environment, and not the device producing chlorine.

I've read and talked to friends and read on TFP that the acidity will dissolve the limestone, right?

Not sure what the SWCG has to do with acidity. No matter how you chlorinate the pool, you will need to control the PH and TA. Pucks have their own issues with PH and TA as well, so that is not unique to a salt water pool.

 

[getalegup]

Get,

Here is a good site to buy and to use as a reference..

Welcome to Polytec Pools

Your cost to buy an IntelliFlo3 is $1,800.
Your cost to buy an IntelliCenter i5PS (no salt) is $2,260

Free shipping and no tax.

You are making a big mistake not going with a saltwater pool, but that is for another thread.

Thanks,

Jim R.

I just got off the phone w/ the pool company. The description on the quote says "Intelliflo" but he thinks it is a WhisperFlo VST. He will get back to me. I like asking questions in TFP because it helps me ask the right questions of my pool company.
Apparently, this set up would require ScreenLogic to work on our phones. I will try to figure out how that compares to what would be need to the actual IntelliFlo3 VSF I mentioned.