Pool is automated through a hayward panel. Freeze protect switches between pool and spa mode every 30 minutes. Actuators on pool and spa valves.

For the past few days below freezing, it has gone back and forth from pool to spa mode. Spa mode kicks in the heater so the water in there is toasty, relatively, throughout the day.

Today I got a call saying the pump was running dry, and after going back and forth, found out it was on the spa side. I'm a little lost because if anything, I would think we would have a loss of suction on the pool side. Client said pool is iced over, but main drains and return lines still function. Only when we switch to spa do we have a problem with the pump. Any ideas? In spa mode, the heather runs and keeps water warm, even if only for 30 minutes before switching back. The spa side would be heated so I'm not sure why there would be an issue. Only thing I can think of is the actuators failing.

My control board is probably toast, thanks to mice. Repaired the partially chewed wire under the control membrane pad, prior to which I was getting LED lighting. Now, no LED lite. Fuses are good, I tried jumping the fireman’s switch, and the pad seems fine . . . and voltage readings from the transformer are good. I believe power is getting to the board as my proximity tester lights up when I place it next to the control boards two 24VAC pins that I assume would rule out lack of pwr to the board (admittedly not optimal diagnostics).

I’ve read in prior posts that LEDs won’t lite if there is no call for power, so am wondering if that is my issue (likely not). My question is: when pressing the Heater button on my PS2 panel, the pool/spa valve doesn’t turn like it normally would, so could this possibly indicate there is no call for heat coming from the PS2 (wiring from which to the heater have continuity and are secure in the PS2 bar). FWIW, the red diagnostic lite doesn’t lite/flash. Zilch.

The board is 14+ years old, and it was working 6 months ago, so am not holding out much hope. How I found the problem in the first place is that the heater fired up by itself one morning along with the LED flickering. BTW, I did mice proof it years ago (wire mesh at every possible opening), evidently, there was a breach or spot I missed.

To mice in my area: challenge accepted. Full and possible lethal counter measures will be implemented. Appropriation of defense funding submitted to wife and awaiting final approval.

Hi everyone,

In the permit / material order stage of my vinyl pool build in Ontario slated for spring 2025.

Trying to decide between getting a baja shelf/ledge, or running a bench/ledge across the length of a pool.

Looking to hear from others who have either option and get some input as to what they think are pros/cons, regrets, etc. If you had pictures, do not hesitate to share either.

For context and information, I will explain both possible options below:

Pool - will be 15'x33' - attached a drawing reference showing it in the yard, as well as a rendering done. Pool faces North meaning sun in the warmer months will be overhead or behind the shallow end area.

Option 1: Baja Shelf/Ledge...See renderings showing this option in the pool - 15'x6' ledge in shallow end, as well as 3 steps, running full 15' width of pool - in all will be around 15'x9.5' of pool for this configuration. We like the idea because we have little ones and can see them, as well as adults hanging out in this area. However, have reservations because of the direction of the sun - would be overhead or behind this area. Additionally, takes up a lot of the pool and would leave approximately 23.5' for swimmable area.

Option 2: Bench running along length of pool - See photo with highlighted portion - 3 steps, and a bench running along the length of the pool - leaves seating area along the whole pool, and frees up a lot more swimmable area - approx. 29.5'

Option 3: None bench or shelves - classic rectangular pool with stadium steps

Curious what others think, or what experience you may have with either option?

Also curious on thoughts of vinyl longevity on either option?

My PB suggested if we go with option 2, we get the vinyl welded to ensure a tighter fit along the bench that runs across the whole pool, but of course will add $$ to the installation.

If anyone has any questions, or if I did not explain anything well - do not hesitate to let me know.


Thanks all!

Today I finally got around to addressing the spa spill over. The surface of the flagstone over which water poured into the pool has always bugged me in that it created an uneven, erratic waterfall which would turn into a strong dribble when it neared time for replacing a dirty DE filter. Well, the grinding down of the flagstone surface produced the desired effect..I now have a beautifully symmetric cascading waterfall I never had before. Unfortunately, it created an unavoidable deposit of extremely fine ground flagstone into the pool making it very cloudy. I’ve run the DE filter - newly replaced DE BTW - for about 9 hours now and it’s still very cloudy.

I plan to run the filter all night..but am wondering if the DE will be able to filter out such fine particles? I’ve read posts varying in the micron size DE will effectively filter out, but am thinking the powdery like flagstone waste from this project is too fine to be addressed by the filter.

I heard clarifiers act to bind together fine materials so the filter can catch them..but others claim the DE will get clogged up. It’s no big deal if I need to change out the DE, but still left wondering if (i) filtering alone will do the job, or (ii) if the clarifier will serve a useful purpose as just noted. I’ll check out the water tomorrow but if it’s still cloudy, I’ll probably think it’s had enough turn overs after 24 hours straight (13 gallon pool with filter set at a fairly high RPM) and grow concerned that further running of the pump will have turned to be a costly waste (scary high KWPH cost here in San Diego). Being a tad bit over 400 ppm already in calcium content further concerns me, so wondering if this alone necessitates a partial drain (assuming / if that fine sandstone has moved that calcium level even higher)?

Thoughts anyone?

Hello All

New here. I've used the site a few times in the past just reading threads to resolve an issue or gain knowledge, but this time I didn't find an answer to my problem. So, here goes nothing.

A few weeks ago we noticed that our pool, spa, and landscape lights weren't turning on during their scheduled hours. Tried to troubleshoot myself to no avail and gave up. Finally asked our pool guy if he could take a look. He just left and wasn't able to fix the problem (wanted to troubleshoot with Pentair, but they are closed for the holiday). He did test what he could though and we found that there is power at the breaker, power at the GFCI, the board sends signal to the relays, the relays cycle (you can hear them switch), but power at the relays is low (I'm not sure what it is supposed to be at the relay? I assume 120?). He said he is going to get a relay to test and then troubleshoot with Pentair. The relays seem unlikely too me since all 3 stopped working at the same time. Just wanted to see if anyone has come across something like this or if anyone had a deeper knowledge of how the Pentair system works. Thanks in advance for any advice!

Hi all, I need to use some chlorine tabs as I have been having a tough time finding liquid chlorine nearby. What are some suggestions for tabs in a SW pool for a short period of time? I understand these tabs are not ideal and not generally recommended, but I need something to keep the FC at appropriate levels for now.

Hello,

Having an issue with the barracuda G3 vacuum in that it suddenly won't stay flat to the pool floor. The finned skirt, which should lay flat, is lifted about 20 to 30° in the front. All the hoses are good, I replaced the diaphragm, the foot, the fin as well as the float. The weight on the first hose from the vacuum is where it's always been, I've tried moving it but that doesn't make a difference . Suction is great. I can get it to lay flat and work for short periods of time but within 20 to 30 minutes it's lifted again and then just sitting on the pool floor sucking away but not moving.

Have attached a photo of where the front is not making contact with the pool bottom, it's hard to see through the water so I've marked it.

Folks,

I've been really busy with fine tuning the pool recently. We're going on vacation for 18 days (record for us). We have pool automation set up to use esp32 DIY controls... not anywhere as pretty and configurable as the Raspberry Pi solution others on here are using but I just don't have the time to work on that solution for at least a few months. I hope to then restart the Node JS project that many have been so helpful with especially @Katodude, @MyAZPool, and the guy that wrote most of the code who is also a member here (can't remember his id). In the meantime, my esp32 solution was quick, functional, and dirt cheap. Now I need to figure out how to get pH reasonably controlled while we're gone. I know I could do this with acid injection and even just get a pool service to add about a gallon every 3 days but I'd like to avoid both of those options. At a gallon every 3 days, I will require 3.7 pounds of CO2 every three says or say 1.3 # per day. This calculation makes some simplifying assumptions like no loss from off gasing and one mole of CO2 is ultimately equivalent to on mole of HCL. I can get a 50 # cylinder and that should last an entire month at least. I'm assuming in this calculation I get 100% conversion to carbonic acid. So here's a couple questions for the experts:

• Is 100% conversion reasonable to assume? @JoyfulNoise @JamesW any comments/suggestions
• from you on this?
• Seems like I'd be better off injecting down stream of my swg so I don't have too low pH that might remove catalyst on my swg generator, pump seals etc.. That's the last thing in the flow at the equipment pad. Does this make sense to you?
• Control should be pretty simple is there anything I'm missing on the web page below?

It only took a couple hours to get the code written using ChatGPT. The web page is printed below. I've set up a vpn that came with my old Orbi mesh wifi and it works great for me to access over the internet so I can intervene if needed.

Chris

I still cannot believe I have not come across this forum till now but hopefully the timing is right.
We just purchased a (new to us) home that already has a pool with SPA and heater but there is no documentation. Over the past weeks I have more or less figured out that it is an Aqualink RS but I don't yet know for sure if it is a RS4 or RS8 though I'm going to guess an 8. I'm totally used to the quite simple AquaLogic we have been using for almost 20 years so this thing was/is a mystery. I did not even realize that the control panel on the wall in the house was part of the pool :-Q

That is where I will start.
The pool timer is running a normal daytime schedule and when set to service mode, by pressing some of the various AUX buttons, rotation of the two motorized valves and the blower for the SPA can be triggered. The pool light(s) do not seem to work - not sure if there is one or more and there is also a bunch of other unidentified stuff near the pool that seems to be light related but may or may not be directly connected to the pool control system.
I did not realize that the main control is the panel in the house till this weekend. It is the 6 button 'OneTouch' and the LCD panel is dark / blank. The LED at the lower right, just below the down arrow is lite Yellow or Amber. I gather it is actually a multi color LED?
I have not yet traced any wiring.

I came across a suggestion that it might just need a reset. I saw a reset button (I think top right) on the circuit board but am hesitant to do that as I do not know what that will actually do. I do not want to reset the timer as we do not live there yet and cannot take the chance it will not run. though I really wish I could change the timer to run overnight to better protect against the freezing weather.

Suggestions on troubleshooting the OneTouch panel?
And if you know a resource that provides a decent overview of the Aqualink system, that might help me determine what we actually have and what all we can do with it?

And is it typical that the Jandy phone number is simply not answered? I've called a few times this week and the auto-answer attendant says they are closed...

TIA

Hello. Is anyone using the Compass WiFi app to control a Gulfstream pool heater? Mine hasn’t been online for four weeks now. I spoke to my installer and they said that “Gulfstream are having WiFi issues, more specifically their servers are down”.

Hello all! Our new pool came with three Hayward LED lights. They are connected to a switch that we manually flip to change the colors. I’d love to be able to do that from my phone. Is there a certain “smart switch” you recommend that would allow me to turn the lights on and off and change the colors from my phone? I appreciate your help! Thank you!

I want to temporarily bypass my d.e filter and not sure if my system will allow this. Is it possible to bypass my filter and how would I do it? Thanks!

Jimrahbe said:

NTX,

I have a 3 HP IntelliFlo that is about five feet from my head when I am in bed. It is impossible to hear the pump, even when I try..

It runs 24/7/365, mostly at 1200 rpm. You have to almost touch it, just to make sure it is still running..

It is just one of the advantages of having a large VS pump. They still move a lot of water at low rpms.

My pool equipment is right next to my house. This allowed me to build a shed to protect the equipment.

DSCN0643.JPG

• Jimrahbe
• Jul 21, 2020

Decking for shed

IMG_4124.JPG

• Jimrahbe
• Mar 26, 2017

Thanks,

Jim R.

Click to expand...

Jim,

Curious - why do you run your pool 24/7/365? My understanding is the "normal" schedule is something 6- 10 hours per day depending on season....

I’ve lived in AZ for over 40 years and always had a pool and a pool service. Recently retired and was unhappy with my current service so looking forward to taking care of my own pool. Had my water tested and was advised to drain because of hardness. I drained about 90% and am refilling now. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. I have 1 year old plaster and filter and a 3 year old pentair pump.

Moving down in Jan, and wondering what a BASIC 16x32 IG pool will run me. No bells and whistles, just a basic one. I know I can get estimates once down there, but just want to get a ballpark figure, since we will be looking at homes without one.

We have another issue with our Edge 25, this time it’s looking like the control module. If I had to guess, the cheap plastic on the control module housing has cracked in multiple spots and we got wild rain a couple days ago. I bet it leaked in and is causing the issues we are seeing.

I’m waiting on a call back from Circupool to confirm, but if that is the case, we will be eyeballing switching to another brand.

What are some alternates people have had good experiences with?

All,

I am in final stages of before signing contract and ordering pool parts with builder.
The builder is adamant that a single speed pump is fine. He spec'd a Hayward Super Pump 700. He claims a variable its waste of money for me. (He is fine with me doing it as he said the cost and markup are higher)
I am wanting as much automation as possible on the maintenance side (either now or ability to add in future). I dont believe the super pump 700 allows for automation

He said he can do a Pentair Intelliflo VS+SVRS pump. Any thoughts on that brand for variable pump?


Is there value (other than cost to run) for having variable for cycling or heating over single speed?





Thanks!!

Hi All,

First time pool purchaser here. Thank you all for the wealth of information you provide here. We are in talks to install a pool in our backyard. Decided this is our forever home and would like to make the backyard a resort for the future. Kids are teens and young adult, but so we want something they and us will use now, but also hoping grandchildren might be part of the future.

Free form shape Pool size 14' x 28' Deck size (with screen) 21' x 42'8"

14' wide is pretty much the max due to the size of our yard and required offsets. I do feel that 28' might be on the short end, but I am also wanting enough deck space for lounging, gathering, etc.

Depth 3' to 6' I know many recommend going 3.5' at a minimum, but my wife is short and doesn't want the shallow end to be too deep. Contractor suggested 5.5' for the deep end but I pushed for 6' as I am taller (6') and want to be able to be mostly submerged

Here are the basic specs laid out in the proposal from the contractor I am leaning towards: (color highlights are from contractor)





The 18" raised spa was recommended over the standard 12" to make it easier to get in and out of as we age. This adds about $2000 to cost. Open to any pros & cons you can think of on this.

The sun bench area is 4' at its longest with 6" deep of water. Is this deep enough for lounging?

I am thinking about extending deck and screen another four feet out to allow for more lounging area (on the left side of the picture near the shallow end.

Thank you all so much for your feedback.
Mike

Been sourcing all my leak detections out and want to do my own this year. Any suggestions on a good leak detection kit? Might go with Leakpro - other stuff on Amazon has spotty reviews.

The IntelliFlo VS+SVRS we've had in our Arizona pool has finally kicked the bucket after many years of reliable service. Unfortunately, we do need to replace it with another SVRS pump since it's an old pool with a single bottom drain cover

Anyway, it's a great time to also finally install a SWG and some automation since we'll have to get a pool company on site to install the pump anyway for warranty purposes. Our pool is pretty simple: no spa, water features, lights, or valve actuators to worry about, so I'm thinking an IntelliConnect would be the most cost-effective way to meet our needs of simple monitoring/control and safely making sure the SWG shuts off if the pump stops running.

Before we pull the trigger, the IntelliConnect can control the IntelliFlo VS+SVRS, right? I apologize if this should have been an easy answer to find, but I know the IntelliConnect has some limitations in pump compatibility and I'd hate to end up getting it, only to find out it's not compatible. I assume it is, given the following paragraph in the manual not listing the SVRS pump P/N, but just want to see if anyone knows for sure.

IntelliConnect is not compatible with IntelliFlo VF (P/N011012), IntelliFlo VS (P/N 011013) and IntelliPro VS(P/N P6E6T4H-209L) pumps

Click to expand...

Second, the IntelliConnect between the pump and the SWG is sufficient as a safety control, right? I know nothing beats a mechanical timer, but I'd much rather keep the whole system as simple as possible to minimize room for human error if the timer isn't kept in sync with the pump schedule.

About November 2022 my pool was replastered and at that time I had the pool builder install a new pool light, a Pentair Amerlite Underwater Incandescent Light, MN 78458100. Initially, the stainless steel light ring had a chrome finish. In the first year of use the chrome was lost. I recall brushing the pool one night and thinking the brushing activity around the light was generating a lot of dust, and that dust might be the chrome coming off.

Please see the associated photographs, new light with chrome, light without chrome, light without chrome in the sunshine.

Please let me know what you think I could have done to cause the chrome finish to come off the stainless steel?

Does the lack of chrome finish require the light be replaced?

Thank you.
Charlie

I'm surprised I've not come across this forum in the past but now is great time - but I'll come to that.

I grew up with a pool and then built a saltwater pool about 20 years ago. We do virtually everything including repairing the motherboard of our Hayward Aqualogic that started displaying the message "No Cell Power". A pretty easy resoldering of a few high AMP points on the board. We do take our water in regularily for testing as it is pretty close, free and easy. Generally, we have been trouble free and relatively low maintenance.

Now... We are beginning the process of moving and just purchased a home that already has a slightly smaller inground chlorine pool and I'm totally lost so that will be the subject of my first post... See you there...

I'm currently looking at the new Dolphin e10 (500 on amazon), but can anyone confirm it will NOT climb walls (and/or has a floor only mode)?

According to google, no, the Dolphin e10 won't climb walls, however, I had an identical looking 2016 Dolphin (looked EXACTLY the same), and it DID climb walls. The problem is, it scuffed up my fiberglass walls (after years of bobbing up and down along the waters edge). Other than that it worked GREAT (no scuffing on the floors, good suction, and the filter trapped all fine dirt/sand).

Or perhaps any other/better recommendations? *I would LOVE to get a cordless version, but I need one with a floor only mode and pleated/paper filter (not those crappy screen filters that just blow the dirt around).

Thanks!

Hello,

I recently installed a Sense and Dispense (S&D) kit (for monitoring only; I do not plan to use it to dispense chemicals) with an AquaRite W3AQR3 (T9) connected to an OmniHub.

The OmniHub documentation states that the flow switch should be connected directly to the AquaRite (a post back in 2021 from another user confirmed this through trial and error). However, when I add the S&D to the OmniHub configuration, it throws an error upon saving: “A flow switch is required when using Sense and Dispense.” The only way to successfully add the S&D to the OmniHub is to include a flow switch in the configuration.

The OmniHub configuration manual confirms that a flow switch is required for S&D, but this seems contradictory to another section of the manual that instructs users to connect the flow switch directly to the AquaRite.

Questions:

1. Does this mean I need two flow switches (one for the AquaRite and one for the OmniHub)?
2. Does adding a flow switch to the OmniHub override the AquaRite’s flow switch ?
3. While connecting the flow switch to the OmniHub appears to work, is this setup as safe as connecting it directly to the AquaRite?
4. Is there any disadvantage to adding 2 flow switches one to the AQR and one to the omnihub?

I'd like to ensure the system safety without making any assumptions. Thanks in advance for your guidance!

I am about to deal with the dread of annual metal stain removing from the walls of my light blue fiberglass pool. I am looking for advice on where to get pure ascorbic acid.

3 years ago I bought 3lbs on Amazon (PC NetwoRx Pure Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) Powder). I ended up dumping all 3 lbs and it barely made a difference after 24 hours. I went to my local pool store and bought their Super Stain Gone which is $50/lb and the I gently sprinkled it around the pool, gently, right up against the wall. It worked like a charm, stains gone in 10 seconds as I moved around and then I followed the regular process. And I did the same last year. But 4x$50 is really expensive. I have no doubt that it was the product itself. But the guys at the store told me it's glorified ascorbic acide unlike their much cheaper Stain Gone (no Super) product which is citric acid. And yes, a single pill of vitamin C cleans the spot.

So I know I can remove the staining for $200 + all the other stuff that's part of the process. Is there any cleaner/purer AA that would get the job done for less $? Thank you so much!

Hello, I hope there's a heater expert that can help me here!

I'm trying to diagnose a customer's Jandy LXI pool/spa heater. Customer says the heater doesn't work. On visual inspection, the heater is in good repair, minor wear on the outside of the unit. Wiring and plumbing are clean and leak free. The heater is wired for automation into a Hayward ecom4 and was set for remote thermostat, but for testing purposes I have disabled it and am operating it manually. On the heater, spa mode is selected and the temp is set to its max 104F.

Visual inspection of the heater from the inside is like new, with minor oxidation and some bug carcasses/leaf debris. Wiring and hoses are clean and free of damage. Board is clean and shows no damage. Gas valve has white oxidation on the outside, peculiarly more than anything else in the unit.

When starting the variable speed main pump and letting it rev up to operating RPM of around 2600, the heater kicks on. The heater blower starts up. After a few minutes, the heater shuts off with the "Ignition failure fault" error. I confirmed the gas valve on the external pipe is parallel and the knob inside the unit on the valve is set to on. I confirmed the igniter is in like new repair. The Fenwal blinks with a red LED one time, indicating an air flow fault.

I tested continuity on the air flow switch by placing probes on the leads going into the switch, then blowing into the tubes attached to it. When blowing into the tube from the burner pipe enclosure, I had continuity. When blowing into the tube from the side, there was no continuity.

I never smelled any gas in the entirety of testing. I tested with the external gas valve in both positions, and never smelled anything, however I checked the gas meter when it was in the open position and the meter was moving.

I don't know what else to test, I'm hoping one of you with more experience can help point me in the right direction.

If you need photos or additional info, let me know.

Thank you!

Hi all,

Curious what others here are doing to clean the fine dirt/sand that collects on the pool floor and isn’t picked up by the drain/skimmer.

I don’t have a cleaning robot, but is buying one the only viable option for this?

When I plug in my Aiper s1 to charge, it blinks red twice, then shut off with no light visible. This would seem to indicate that something is wrong. Any insights ? TIA.

Moved from HERE

hollywoodfrodo said:

I live in SoCal and it’s true what they say that “it never rains in Southern California.” So even though our water isn’t too hard, after adding water almost daily in the summer and then hardly getting any rain water in the winter to offset and runoff the calcium, the calcium levels eventually get too high and so I have to go through the tedious process of emptying the pool about 2/3 and refilling.

We are installing a water filtering and softening system soon and we got one with a high capacity in hopes that I could use the softened/filtered water most of the time going forward so as to not ever have to deal with high calcium levels again. But I just wanted to check in with the experts here and make sure there isn’t anything I need to be worried about with that. Obviously I’m starting with a full pool of “regular” water so not filling it up with filtered soft water (the system couldn’t handle that of course) but just want to use the softened filtered water for my daily (less now during winter) addition of water.

Thanks for any insights!

Click to expand...

In a similar boat ... my CH from the City is 200-225PPM...

What solutions have others used at the equipment pad to install a softner for the autofill... based on plumbing... wouldn't be able to install it elsewhere?

I would like for a Winter schedule is to have just one low speed for the duration the filter is powered (either by schedule or freeze control). The end state goal is as follows....
warmer temps > 38 degrees: 9 hrs per day at 1900 rpm
colder temps <= 38 degrees: All hours of the 24 hr cycle at 1900 rpm

I would like to confirm the below settings to achieve the above goal:
- Pentair VSP
-- Speed 1 - 1900 rpm; Time - 8am; Duration - 24 [hrs].
-- Speeds 2 and 3 - left at previous schedule since assuming they are irrelevant if speed 1 has duration of 24 hour cycle. (e.g., Speeds 2 and 3 will auto adjust at 0 hour durations)

- The Hayward Aqua Plus
-- Timers menu: Filter T1 -all 8:00a-5:00p schedule.
-- Configuration Menu: filter pump is set at 1 speed (all variable speed settings are performed at the pump); Freeze control is enabled and set at 38 degrees (where it should run at 1900 rpm).