Hi. Our spa had a Pentair Aqualight (120v, 250w Halogen), replaced 4 years ago, now bad again. Sad story here.

Aqualight seems no longer available. I see some recommendations for PoolTone in past threads. This model looks like a pretty direct replacement.

$500+ is pretty intimidating for a 6-inch white light. Before we plunk down again, does anyone have experience with quality and longevity of this brand?

Any recs of other options?

Many thanks for all help on this and past questions. What a great community...

Hi everyone, we bought a house with the pool few months ago. Recently the wall fitting for the cleaner got broken. I bought a new one on Amazon and was not smart enough to keep the old pressure relieve valve. After I installed new connected with the new valve, I have noticed that pressure relieve valve is gushing a lot of water and cleaner runs much slower than it was. Checked everything few time - don't see any defects. Water is gushing from under the valve cap. Given that noting else has changed in the system, the only thought that comes to my mind is that the spring on the valve is too weak and valve opens and a lower pressure than the previous one. Was wondering if anyone experienced something similar or knows what pressure cleaner should operate under.

Just had a 14x33 Fiberglass pool installed. All Jandy equipment: VS Pump, Heater/Chiller, Salt Chlorinator, LED lights. Automation for Pump, Heat/Chill, and lights.
I would like to learn the ropes on how to best run my equipment to maintain the pool running year round efficiently. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Can these be replaced? You have to literally turn them with pliers. Is this something you can do with pool turned off?

Hi,

I have a 55k litre chlorinated pool with a sand filter. I try to keep the chemicals pretty balanced, testing every 7 to 14 days.

A couple of weeks ago my pool water turned from crystal clear to murky/dirty. The timing coincided with me doing some work digging up and resurfacing the lawn, work which blew a lot of dirt in the air, and resulting in exposing bare dirt (the dirt is still exposed as I wait for the new grass to set in). I initially thought that it was just the dirt blowing into the pool, and running the pump will clear things up. But after running the pump all day yesterday without any real improvement (and running the pump a bit longer every couple of days), I'm not so sure. Maybe there is dirt still blowing into the pool, maybe I just need to run the pump more, or maybe it's something else?

The chlorine levels have always been fine, and a test the other day showed chlorine still at 4ppm, which isn't all that high but should be sufficient. Because chlorine levels have always been good, I don't think a SLAM is needed or will do anything.

Is there any advice on what I should do, or should I just keep running the pump?

Hey everyone,

I've done homework but could use some more specific guidance on what i could use for my pool/setup.

i have a 40x20 inground pool (8' deep end) that i've estimated to be around 40,000 gallons. I currently have a single speed hayward tristar 2hp 2" pump (installed 2020). Im in CT by the way...so open in may usually and close in october typically now.

I'd like to add a heat pump this year....but my research is telling me it requires to be ran longer than the 8 hours i currently run my pump during the peak of the summer. when it's colder and i need the heat pump i usually run the pump closer to 7 hours a day and it sufficiently maintains the water.... i'm trying to do the math on the electricity and it's tricky....if i get an efficient pump but then have to run a very inefficient water pump i'm really going to pay a fortune for electricity.

my questions...

1) if i ran my current pump the normal 7 or 8 hours per day is that enough to heat the water up and maintain temp?
2) am i better off upgrading to a variable pump so i can run it at lower speeds but for longer so the heat pump has more time per day to crirculate?
3) if i need to do the 2nd item above what suggestions do you have for pump/heater combos?
3a) any experience with the black and decker variable pumps and matching heaters? i can get them at a reasonable price

Thank you!!

My electrical service is 20 years old. I have a master set of breakers to a sub panel where one breaker goes to my timer, salt controller and the main pump that keeps overheating. The second subpanel breaker goes to a second pump (zero edge) that I have not used all year. Can something happen to the breakers whic impact the pump motor? First picture is main box, 2nd is subpanel and 3rd are pumps. Main pump is to the right. Thanks for suggestions

Just got a spa and decided to use bromine. It's 450 gallons and I got one of the hydrotools mini floats. It has 4 settings. What would people recommend starting at? thanks

Is it common to get gunk along the water's edge after purging with Ahhsome and refilling?

The last two times I drained/refilled my tub, I purged with Ahhsome following the directions. I continued to get brown gunk around the water's edge for several days after refilling.

This time, I purged with Ahhsome 3 times, wiping everything down between purges. The 3rd purge showed no additional gunk removed. I then completely drained, refilled and balanced chemicals.

I continue to have brown gunk accumulating along the water's edge. Am I doing something wrong or is there a magic number of purges to get the gunk out?

This is a relatively new, low use Sundance spa.

I had a pool installed last summer. My wife really wanted salt water. We did it, but now I’m regretting doing it as I see so many people whose pool has rusted after 3 years of use.
I really don’t want to be replacing the pool after such a short while.

Should I look at switching it to back regular chlorine system in the spring?

Hi all!

My mom is an avid swimmer in summer, but she's been complaining about the constant pool maintenance. I'm considering getting her a robotic pool cleaner as a Christmas gift, but I'm unsure if it's a worthwhile investment. Has anyone had experience with these? Are they effective at keeping pools clean? Do they save a significant amount of time and effort? Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

So we are nearing the digging phase of our pool construction. This is being done in VA. They came out today, laid some paint lines on the ground to show exact location make sure everyone is happy. They will be digging after the holiday January 2nd. Here are the plans and paint lines. Looking forward to this one. I’ll post updates as they move along.

What is the recommended Salt System for a 22k pool? RJ 60 plus or Core 55 or IC60? Thanks!

Hi,

Despite attempting repairs my solar heating pump is dead and needs replacing.

The solar heating is the black tubing type on the garage roof and is VERY old and I've repaired it several times over the years to fix leaks. Currently no leaks

I don't know the model or specs of the pump like HP or flow rate. I'm concerned that if I buy a replacement pump that is more powerful it will create more pressure in the tubing and manifold and cause new leaks.

Is this a valid concern? I want to replace the pump with one of the same flow but I don't know the specs of the current pump, or am I overthinking this and a similar pump with a slightly higher rate should not cause any issues?

Attached is a picture of, what I believe to be, the spa Hartford loop and an additional pipe. My question is, what is this additional pipe for? It is the same height as the loop, which is about 1.5 inches above spa water level. When I stick a hose down there, it is about 2 feet before it hits a T or elbow. The hose comes up dry. The spa spills into the pool. I have a spa blower at the equipment pad for aeration.

Hi

For several weeks now my chlorine and FC levels are high. I live in FL and we had a ton of storms over the last 4 weeks but even prior to that the levels were high. I lowered my pump runtime and SWG down to 30% 2 weeks ago to try and bring things down but it doesnt seem to be working. Pool is crystal clear and everything looks just fine but wasn't sure why this is happening. This is a new pool build that has been filled for about 4-5 months and the pump was running for 12 hours a day with the SWG at 50%. Below are the reading from the last testing i performed(I do mine own testing with the TFP pro kit).

13k gallon pool
FC = 21ppm
CC = 0ppm
PH = 7.8
TA = 90ppm
CYA = 70ppm
CH = 250ppm
salt = 3700ppm
CSI = .07
water temp = 78

2.7 VSP running at 2700RPM for 9 hours
Fusion soft 1400 SWG at 30%

Let me know if you need any more information

Thank you all in advance!

Hello Guys,

I went through this forum and learned that sharing the suction lines for 2 pumps is a bad idea.

Current Configuration -- Pool and SPA -- Total of 3 Drains -- Pool Main Drain / Pool Skimmer / SPA Drain

I want to have a separate pump for waterfall features (4 Pentair Laminar Jets / Rain Arc Waterfall / 2 Water Bowls)

I don't think I can plumb the extra suction lines for the feature pump, and I need advice on how to make it work with existing suction lines.

--Sam

sorry reposting to the correct forum!

hello! it is raining pretty hard here and if i leave the pool untouched i am fairly certain it will overflow shortly. i am a new pool owner and i have no idea what to do.

i have a couple cheap home depot tarps that im considering putting over the pool just for the next few days until i can think of something better. i have not yet figured out how im going to secure the tarps or how to keep them tight so i am open to ideas here. i do have some climbing rope that i could use that is good quality rope.

my other idea is using 5 gallon buckets and just manually taking a bunch of water out of the pool... but i cant help but feel like there has to be a better way?

the only way im aware of for the pool system to drain water is through our broken solar pipe (if its not already obvious, it's not supposed to function as a drain, but the end cap blew off so thats all it can do now), but that water goes directly into the culver, which is illegal to dump water there so i cant empty it that way.

if anyone has any ideas please let me know!!!!!! i just need something that can withstand the next few days of rain until i have time to do something more substantial.

My 400,000 btu natural gas Laars/Teledyne is dead. Any suggestions or recommendations for a replacement? I only use the heater to heat the spa.

Comments on the first estimate? Is Jandy OK?

"The total cost for Jandy JXiQ is $4866.18 installed. These heaters are 400k BTU and will maintain temperatures up to 104 degrees. The increase you will see in gas/electricity use is dependent on frequency of use, but these are the most efficient models on the market."

All three of my Pentair globrite pool lights burned out within two years in my new pool. I want to replace them with a better light. Someone mentioned trying Florida Sunseeker’s Pool Tone nicheless large face lights. Has anyone had any experience with these? I can’t find much online about them and they are $350 a piece.

How do I check the flow rate through a Sta-Rite Max-E-Therm 400? Is there a flow meter that I could install temporarily in place of the water pressure switch to check flow rate?

(I hope I'm in the right thread...)

8'x8', two big styrofoam blocks that fold in half, then stand up with the help of a cover lifter.
The center seam (where it folds) has blown out starting at one end, and since the PO neglected
it rather than fix it while it was small, it's now extended 3' across and the edges atrophied and
pulled back. So I now have about a 1/2" gap to close.

Someone in another thread (predictably) said "duck tape". I - professionally - hate adhesive tape.
Over time the adhesive goes to Hades - gums up and turns into a gooey mess. Or hardens and
flakes. Or leaves some unidentifiable (and uncleanable) residue. And being outside, exposed to
water and sunlight and temperature extremes (around here, -40C to +30C) assures that it'll become
the worst it can, and the duck and plastic will just fall off and I'll be left with a bigger problem than I
have now.

I've used Tear-Aid on a tent, and it worked well, but is ridiculously expensive and not meant for
repairs this long. Are there any new tapes out there (Gorilla, maybe?) that have the strength and
longevity - as well as low-temperature flexibility - that this fix needs?

Thanks.
Jonathan

The wall fitting for the polaris has a burr / cross threaded and I cannot get a new male wall fitting installed into it. I am talking about the fitting that is in the side of the pool. You then install the male fitting inside of it and are able to attach the polaris.

the female threads in the side of the pool are not accepting the male fitting.

Below is a picture of what I am trying to install.

Any idea how to clean up those threads?

Hi all

Recently installed a Jandy Variable Speed pump and would like to a schedule for the warmer and cooler months. I would also like to know your suggestions for run time and what speed to run the pump at. I have been running it for about 20 hour a day at 2,400 rpm. Would like to know if that should stay the same or can be adjusted.

Pool size 8,500
Jandy VS 2.7 HP
Jandy SWG

Helping a friend who is in search of this item or any potential equal. Im not sure of the backround but an extensive search has not yielded any luck in locating this item. Thank you all in advance. Dave

We are looking to build a custom hot tub to our back yard.
Cement, 500 gallons, above ground, insulated cover. We went to a local spa and want to copy their build for size and shape, so we know its doable

I need some help picking an electric heater
I already have a Omnihub controller, and a MaxFlo VS 500 omni pump for this build. Are there limitations to the type of heater that the omnihub can control? the manual hasn't been super helpful for me to understand, I saw that it has either 2 or 3 wire external control for heaters.

I think an 11kw heater will be good enough. We anticipate keeping the hot tub heated most of the time as we would use it daily, but the omni controller will help us automate a schedule if needed. It will be fairly well insulated with the concrete, rigid insulation then capped by a wood surround. Considering manufactured tubs of the same size tend to use 5.5kw, I think 11kw will be plenty.

I saw hayward has an 11kw electric heater (CSPAXI11) for over $1k
or Hydroquip has an 11kw Heat max (HeatMax RHS 230v, 11kW, Weather Tight) for $600

But both of these have built in controls which doesn't seem necessary if I already have the Omnihub?


does anyone have any experience with these, and issues with connecting either one of these to the omnihub?

Hello Friends,

I'm stuck. Well, the ladder, is stuck. I started closing the pool. I loosened the bolts on the wedge anchors that I just put in at the beggining of the season earlier this year. I managed to get one side loose by tapping the bolt. The other side wont budge. After getting a 4 pound hammer among other things, I managed to bend the bolt pretty good (See pic.), but the wedge below didn't budge.

I tried a car jack with a 2x4 and the 2x4 nearly broke. I got a punch and a hammer and tried to beat it down with that but it still didn't move. It's like the wedge and the ladder are welded together. I'm starting to think even if I do get it out it will be unusable.

I'm open to suggestions, ideas, comments, criticism, finger pointing and sarcastic comments.

Thanks

I'm replacing my single speed pool pump which is connected to my EasyTouch panel with a new Pentair Superflo VST pump. The current pump is turned off/on by the schedules menu on my EasyTouch panel. Am I correct in assuming the new Superflo VST pump can only be controlled by the EasyTouch panel in the same way as the old pump, ie on/off schedules only. The variable speed will need to be controlled on the pump panel itself. Is my thinking correct?

Lots of pool work going on. Intellicenter being installed. PB mentioned recently suggested he could replace heater with Pentair MasterTemp 400,000 but. My 17,500 gallon pool has somewhat near 435 sq ft surface area. Calculation useing these suggests about 175,000 BTU minimum. Most heating done using solar in summer.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance.

I'm new to using Bromine for my hot tub and have a few questions:

I filled my 130 gallon hot tub and built up a proper 3-5ppm bromine level. Then I added CYA to 40ppm to buffer the bromine, incorrectly assuming bromine needed CYA protection - I now know differently, but just letting you know the CYA is in there.

Weekly I use liquid chlorine to bring to shock level to 15ppm based on my CYA.

Questions:
1.) After I shock with liquid chlorine how do I know what is reading on the test as free chlorine (left over from the shock) -vs- the actual bromine amount (free chlorine * 2.25)? For instance If I shocked in the morning bringing the water to 15ppm. I tested it at later in the day and get a 10ppm result. So should I take that as a 10ppm free chlorine level (which would be safe) or 10ppm * 2.25 = 22.5ppm bromine level (which would be unsafe), or some combination of the two?

2.) Once I have a established a 3-5ppm and shock weekly to return the bromide to bromine, is it true I don't need to add any further bromine (outside of splash out or evaporation) since it refreshes? ie... no needs for bromine tabs/floater?

3.) Related to question 1, how long before I can safely assume the test results are bromine and not chlorine - so I know whether I need to do the 2.25 math?

I use the Taylor K-2006C for testing as noted in my signature.

Thanks in advance,
Jamie