After 14-15 years things are showing signs of extreme wear and breaking down.

Here is my current setup

• Filter - Pentair FNS Plus 60
• Main Pool Pump - Pentair Intelliflo VS3050
• Waterfall Booster Pump - Pentair Whisperflo High Performance 3/4HP Pump
• Cleaner Booster Pump - Puri Tech Uniboost 1.5HP Pump
• Pool / Spa Heater - Pentair Mastertemp 400
• Pool Light (x2) - Pentair IntelliBrite LED Color Pool Light 120V
• Spa Light (x1) - Pentair IntelliBrite LED Color Spa Light 120V
• Automation - Pentair IntelliCenter
• Shutoff Valves - PVC Ball Valves

Due to the nature of my property, all my equipment is all below water level.

We will be redoing the plumbing and replacing most all of the equipment. Here is what i'm thinking:

• Filter - New Pentair FNS Plus 60
• Main Pool Pump - New Pentair Intelliflo3 3HP
• Waterfall Booster Pump - Move the current Pentair Intelliflo VS3050
• Cleaner Booster Pump - Puri Tech Uniboost 1.5HP Pump keep until it dies
• Pool / Spa Heater - New Pentair Mastertemp 400
• Pool Light (x2) - New Pentair IntelliBrite Architectural Series LED Color Pool Light 12V
• Spa Light (x1) - New Pentair IntelliBrite Architectural Series LED Color Spa Light 12V
• 12V Transformer - New Pentair 300W Transformer
• Automation - Pentair IntelliCenter keep and use existing
• Shutoff Valves - New serrviceable Pentair or Jandy Valves

I welcome input, feedback and guidance.

Is there a trick to fixing it? It seems like a simple solution, so why would it fail?

Our plaster is about 4 years old. Recently we noticed that it is discolored in a number of places (only on the bottom, not on the sides or in the spa). The discoloration is dark and a The person that did the replastering claims it is because our CYA levels were too high. Does that make any sense or could it be something different?

In the market for a heat pump in the future, and wondering if there are any Gulfstream HP owners out there? My old pool had a Hayward, and served me well, but it's almost $2k more expensive than the Gulfstream. I'm more concerned with Gulfstream being around for another 10years or so, so I can get parts if needed. I know Hayward will be around for a while. Just looking for opinions from current owners, and anyone else's thoughts?

New Intellicenter (firmware 1.064) and Pentair VSP installed this week due to a full pad equipment upgrade. Have pool and spillover spa with shared pump, plus second Pentair VSP for waterfall. Freeze Protect is enabled on all three circuits, and is correctly turning on all pumps and alternating the valves between the pool and spa ever 15 minutes -- all great.

My question is how to configure the RPM for each pump while running in Freeze Protect? It appears to use the default RPM for each circuit while in Freeze Protect, which is too fast in some cases. (For example, Spa circuit has speed of 2800 RPM which is good while in the spa, but also what it runs at when enabled for Freeze Protect which is too much). For the Pool\Spa pump, there is a circuit name "Freeze" with a lower RPM, but it doesn't seem to have any effect? Ideally, I'd like them just to run around 1800 RPM when in freeze protect.

We’ve got a mess. We had some resin/hardener left over from a project spill over the basement floor. To be more precise, it didn’t actually spill but started to leech through the plastic jug it was in.

I don’t care much about the stain but its pretty sticky still. So far Ive tried mineral spirits and acetone with limited success.
Any other ideas for cleanup?

im not sure if it was the resin or the hardener which leaked, but it was only one. They didn’t mix. I tossed them pretty quickly after it happened and forgot to look at the label.

My multiport is starting to look and feel really old. Everytime I backwash, I fear it might be the last time it works/seats properly. It was here when I bought the house 10 years ago, and for all I know it's original to the pool (2003). It's currently hooked up to a 48 sq ft Hayward DE filter (also here 10 years ago) that I backwash several times a year and have fully cleaned once a year. I think I bought new grids about 5 years ago. As far as I can tell, it still filters well and I'm not seeing any DE in the pool

I recently got a new pump (Hayward Max Flo VS 1.5hp) and while that was being installed, the guy also suggested that I might consider replacing that multiport soon. He went on to say that maybe I'd want to just go ahead and get rid of the multi-port, get a cartridge filter, and retire the 50 ft custom fire hose that I have to roll to the sewer when I backwash...

From what I've read, DE has superior filtration, but cartridges are likely sufficient for most folks' needs. I wouldn't hate saying goodbye to backwashing, and having less points of failure...

If you were me, would you just replace the multiport (I'm told it's not always possible to just replace the guts), or would you seriously consider converting to cartridges?

If cartridge, I'm reading that bigger cartridges = more run time between cleanings. I was eyeing a Hayward - W3C4030 SwimClear 425 sq. ft. Cartridge Pool Filter for my 16k gallon pool. The dimensions are almost identical to the DE unit I have now. Is that major overkill?

All, I'm looking for some guidance on how to fix an interesting issue with my Aqualink controller.
This was put in service in 1998, so I know it's likely on its end of service life.

The controller works great most of the year, however, last winter when the temperatures dipped to freezing, I can see the controller reboot or at least the display seems to pulse backlit on (no text), and then the model name is shown, and it kind of does a cycling back & forth.
Luckily, the pump program still works in the background, and the freeze protect is still operational.
All temperature sensors work.

As the day warms to 34F, the indoor wired display becomes functional, but the key presses are a little laggy, but it works as it should.
Get it up to 38F or so, and there are no functional issues... Very strange.

I'm concerned this thing may fail, losing the freeze protect, and we know what that may do.

I'm going to start with a fresh backup battery, but maybe its something associated with the power supply voltage dipping at low temperatures?
Or maybe, the control board just doesn't like low temps.. Not sure.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Equipment:
Jandy Aqualink RS Touch R0551800
Aqualink model 8156

1poolman1 said:

Do you have automation?
A Nidec Neptune NPTT165 motor will replace the motor you have now and work very similar in terms of programming, etc.
If you have automation, a Century EVC165 will work and communicate with it.
A GO KIT 3 will have the needed shaft seal, O ring, gaskets, etc.
Any shop/service company that says a Hayward-pump motor can't be replaced should be avoided at all costs.
If you are considering a new VSP, look into a Waterway Power Defender. They use the Nidec motors. They make a 1.65 and 2.7 model.

Click to expand...

Hello!

For a Hayward SP3202VSP, do you know if the Century EVC165 will work? I have automation by relays on pool/spa mode.

Hi all,

I have a 3-way valve with a crack in the body that needs replaced, but my plumbing looks like it might make this challenging. It's the valve labeled for the suction cleaner in the pics; when opened it sucks in tons of air. I've already disassembled it, inspected and replaced O-rings etc., and the vacuum leak is definitely due to a crack in the valve body unfortunately so replacement seems like the only option. As you can probably see from my pics, whoever originally plumbed my pool didn't seem to have planned it out all too well, and I don't have much room to work with. I don't see any way to replace this valve without also cutting out and replacing the other two valves that are connected right next to it. I am OK doing this since they're all old and I can see some small cracks forming around the screws on other other valves, but I'd like to plumb the replacements with some additional clearance between everything so the issue doesn't happen again and future jobs are easier. It seems like the pipes coming out of the ground are quite close together, so I'm having trouble coming up with an alternative way to arrange new valves without digging and doing some major restructuring (in which case I'd need to hire a professional). I'm also going to be replacing my single speed pump with a VS one soon so would be tackling this job all at once, and would also probably want to clean up the pump inlet so it's actually a straight line of pipe and not the weird angled thing that it is now. And yes, the exact same situation exists on the pressure side, but I'll deal with that one later lol.

I'm fine with minor PVC work, but if I'm going to need to dig and rearrange piping further down I'll get someone who really knows what they're doing to handle it. Any advice or insight into how to tackle this situation would be greatly appreciated!

14500 gal. Salt water pebble pool

Why does the formula for an ideal CSI include a range for ph and alkalinity that is outside their respective upper limits?

If I was not chasing CSI, I would add muriatic acid to the pool based on pH reading. Even a pH of 7.6 pushes the CSI outside the range. What is the most important element to maintain overall chemistry and prevent etching or corrosion?

pH=8.0
Total Alk= 100
CH= 360
Stabilizer = 70
CSI = - 0.09
Water temp =34 deg

I see the local forecast for this week is for a bunch of 3F - 4F mornings, and at least a few days with highs in the teens. So a reminder to those in the northeast... check your chemical storage!

I know 31% Muriatic won't freeze above -80F, but I think 10% Chlorine is only good down to +19F. Between ground sinking and solar gain, plus a little insulative factor of its own, it's likely my little closed storage box doesn't ever hit 19F most of the winter. But at 3F - 19F for two straight days, I suspect it likley will, so I'll be checking in there this afternoon to remember if there's any liquid chlorine left from last season... and move it indoors if there is.

Moreover, some of the other algicides and miscellaneous might not have well-published freezing points. Those will likely come indoors this week, as well. I hate storing chemicals in the garage long-term, but I don't mind doing it for the few coldest weeks of the winter.

Since the salt cell has been off for the last couple months, I have been adding 10% chlorine once a week (losing ~3ppm per week). Each time I have checked the pH, it has been around 7.2 to 7.4. Pool math says ideal range is 7.6 to 7.8. Should I be adjusting or leave as is?

Hello all. Hoping someone can help me. It looks like my pump is being recognized by the OmniLogic as it shows up with a hua. However when I turn it on it shows priming but it won’t on the pump. I tried the turning it off for 5 minutes or up to 15 minutes per the service bulletin. Nothing. Disconnected the comm cable verified the OmniLogic didn’t see it turned power off and turned it back on. Is there a way to manually turn it on? The cover on the pump with the control screen isn’t connected so the led doesn’t show anything. It’s happened before and the pool guys said my pump was bad but then it magically worked again. Really appreciate the help. I hear it clicking on and off on the panel but the pump seems locked.

Normally, I’d ask my PB but he’s a ghost so I’ll just take a shot in the dark. I have a 20k pool with attached raised spa. I have a SWG, heater, and booster pump for the cleaner. I know what the check valve to the right is. It’s the spa return. I know this because when I put it in spa mode, this check valve opens and I can see water flowing. My question is, what could the check valve to the right be? I have never seen it open. Any valve I open or close has never changed its position. It has been bugging me for quite awhile. Thanks

We have an inground pool that is set to run constantly during freezing weather. We also have a generator. We are set to get 2-5inches of snow and freezing rain for a couple of days. Will the pool be okay if left uncovered?

Hey everyone, I’m running out of ideas here. I’ve had two electricians come out and verify everything is working fine on the electrical side. It pulls the correct amperage, it never trips the GFCI outlet, it trips after/while raining and if it’s dry.

I have a Doheny pump that’s maybe a month old that recently started tripping the circuit breaker after running 7-12 hours. I cleaned out the internal basket filter, I’ve run it through a plug with a timer, I’ve tried running it directly plugged into the outlet. I haven’t noticed any unusual noises, nor have I identified a specific external variable’s presence when it kicks off. I’m running out of ideas and I’d prefer not spending upwards of $200 on another electrician. Thanks for the help!

How do I test if my pool is leaking? I feel like the water level is falling too fast. Pool is covered except when used, I am seeing bubbles in the pump lid, and given winter don’t have sun evaporation. A lot of steam especially on cold days so I am sure there is some water loss that way.

I was top of skimmer lid a few weeks back and today half way down. My wife uses it every day for about an hour.

G’day folks.

Simple question: Chlorine or bromine in your hot tub?

And why do you use the chemical you do?

Steve

In Louisiana, we are expecting up to 6 inches of snow and temps as low as 13 degrees within the next 36-48 hours. I have a single pump with a spa and pool. I turned off freeze protect a long time ago b/c I didn't like the valve changing every 5 minutes as I've had issues with that one in the past; It has since been replaced. Anyway, I am currently warming up the pool to about 80 degrees. I plan to cut the heater before the snow starts and the temps drop to below freezing. I manually moved my intellivalve so I believe I'm pulling water through both sources (pool and spa). My pool setting pushes water through the spa jets. Few questions...

Am I doing enough for my equipment just leaving it running?
Do I still need to tarp the equipment? I have a tarp, but I'm concerned that the tarp will just collapse with the snow and create a mess.
Should I turn on my bubblers and deck jets to make sure water is flowing through those pipes too?

Weather: Snow starting early AM tonight. 36 hours ranging from 32 degrees down to 13. Wednesday the temps will get to the high 30's. Thursday afternoon I should be getting back up to the 40's and warmer weather arriving on Friday.

I'm in California where the wind/fires happened. No fires near me but the wind pushed a lot of dirt into my pool. Probably the dirtiest I've seen it. I have some steps and I brush the dirt onto the floor for my Dolphin robot to vacuum but a few hours later a new layer of dirt is settled on the steps. Repeat every a few times a day for last few days. The winds have stopped so I'm not getting new dirt so I imagine its the dirt going through the pump and coming back out from the returns?

Is there anything I can do? It does seem a little every day though.

Hi folks, I've been a pool owner using the TFP philosophy happily for 7 years and love this forum.
I bought a 10 year old used hot tub/spa a month ago(tub was running & hot when I bought it, was only drained for ~10 hours before it was back up and running). Filled it, ran bromine for 2 weeks then started reading up on TFP.
After initial 2 weeks, I purged with Ahhsome, and there was a little bit of crud, but nothing too gross.
Then filled and used the dichlor/chlorine method. I was using a fair bit of chlorine so I set my target FC to ~6ppm so it wouldn't drop down to 0. I bought an SWG - Chloromatic Chlormaker and it's been running at 10/10 for 2 weeks. But I still find the FC drops from 6 down to 1 after about 8 hours(day or night, and it's got a cover).

Questions:
Should the Chlormaker keep up with regular chlorine demand? (I understand I'll still have to add liquid chlorine after each soak, I'm more wondering if it should produce enough chlorine in 24 hours to no require additional chlorine, except if we soak).
I assume you'd recommend another purge, even though I did one 3 weeks ago? Would you shock it first or just keep FC at 5/6ppm and purge?
Can I drain the hot tub into my adjacent pool for the purge? I'm in Canada, the pool is currently stagnant and green because it's winter, so I'm not worried about it clouding the water - more worried about if having Ahhsome in the pool with mess anything up when I open it in the spring.

Thanks, as always

Hot tub ~ 1000 gallons.
Salt: 1500ppm
FC: goal ~6ppm
CYA: 16 (by calculation of dichlor additions)
pH: 7.3
TA: 100

Good afternoon,
I looked through the board but didn’t see my exact problem addressed. In anticipation of the cold coming into the gulf south I have disabled my Pentair IC40 through the intellicenter but the lights are still on. Low salt, flow is green, set output to 20% because if I turn it any lower all the lights flash continually. It isn’t making chlorine because it thinks the salt is too low. The cold water light doesn’t come on. Water is at 48. Is it ok as is? Freeze protection did come on during the night.
Thank you again for your help as I don’t really understand the intellicenter fully.

We love our pool, all is good. There are some scattered little marks on it, sort of like scuff marks, about 1/2" to 1" long. I'd say about a dozen in the whole pool. I have NO idea where they're from. They're not scratches; you can't feel them. The pool company guy said don't worry about it, a snow-white pool will always show something, sort of like a white shirt. Anyway, I'm just wondering if there's some kind of "touch-up" substance I could use to cover them up (without draining the pool, of course).

Not much here yet. Cover still on, but peeled it back again and ran some basics. Been crystal over the winter, but added a little Cya to bump me up from 30. Added a little Acid and Bleach. As soon as my trees drop some tassels, the cover will come off.

What did you do to yours?

New here but can’t keep chasing my tail.

FP will activate as intended. But eventually the pump stops to 0 rpm.

However FP is still indicated on the system - so other than manually starting the pump - I can’t do anything with it.

I did manually turn it on at 0200. And despite the 28 degree temp - sometime after that (it’s now 0600) - it’s off again.

Ideas?

I drained my pool recently because of high CH. After the refill I added:
- 3 days ago: 1 gallon of 10% bleach purchased at Walmart with a date of 2024/324 (roughly two months old)
- 6 days ago: 1 trichlor tab.

I have not added any stabilizer yet.

After adding the bleach my FC measured only 3.5 and I was expecting around 8. Today I tested 0.
Could the bleach have been weak?
My FC reagents were purchased last October, I don't believe they are the issue.
Would the FC dissipate this quickly with no stabilizer, at this time of year, with a water temperature in the low-mid 50s?
If it's the lack of stabilizer I'll walk away embarrassed, but I didn't think stabilizer was this critical at this time of year.

I have an air bleed somewhere in my system. Bubbles are ejected from floor/spa jets. I've read durn near every article here and am still stuck.

Based on posts in this forum, I have tried the following.
I replaced both O-rings on pump, inlet and outlet cuz the outlet was leaking. Now no leak. Got that fixed.
If I start pump, let it run a few minutes (usual bubbling on startup), and release trapped air from sand filter using release valve, then no bubbles for a while. Come back 10 minutes later, open release valve, more air comes out. So it's coming in and building up somewhere.
I can see air in the pump through the pump lid, and in check valves anywhere water is flowing in the system.
I've positioned valves to take water in from floor only, pool skimmer only, and spa only. Still bubbles. That narrows down the possible culprits to the jandy valve and pipes closest to the pump inlet.
I removed/lubed/reinstalled O-ring on pump lid.
I removed and replaced electric jandy valve assembly closest to the pump inlet. Did not remove/replace O-rings cuz there was water flowing out of that junction from the pool and I wasn't sure if that was normal (it is, sometimes) so I put it back on with alacrity.
The o-rings appear to be in good shape, still have tension, and I removed some grit when dis/reassembling.
I sprayed shaving cream all over every connection going from the jandy valve to the pump. No apparent in-suck of cream.
I tried running hose water over every connection, still bubbles.
When I stop the pump, there is no squirt, leak, or drip of water anywhere.

At this point, I could take a shot in the dark and replace all the o-rings in the remaining usual suspects: pump lid and jandy valve. But I'd rather not start just randomly replacing stuff hoping it'll help. That can be a long, expensive, troublesome road.

Are there any other ways to determine where the leak is, other than random part replacement? Any other symptoms I could look for? Other tests besides shaving cream?

Totally at a loss here, desperate for help. I suspect most pool techs would just replace those O-rings (usual suspects), charge me buncha $, and it might not even fix it.

Hello, anyone have any experience with the freeze protection (not) activation with a Century VGreen motor? I have purchased a new motor, and was sent a replacement with neither successfully activating freeze protection when temperature drop below 39F. I have troubleshooted including confirming the jumper settings, etc. with no success. At the moment, I have have it set to schedule set A, schedule 1 and the ambient temperature is 35F @12:45 pm (which is up from 24F at 8 am) and the freeze protection is not activating... The 12 hr schedule stopped at 7:30 am. I have reached out to Century and from what I was told they don't provide any customer support to home owners. I purchased the pump from INYO pools, who have been good to work with, but they too are stumped on the issue. Thanks in advance for the assistance.

Have a pool that last week started not completely filling up after a bump cycle. It it leaving about 18” of extra water in my surge tank, causing my float valve to remain closed(standing straight up).Once I move the floats forward to a 45 degree angle, water leaves the surge tank and completes filling the pool, running water into the gutters.
Any ideas what caused this, everyday now I come in and manually move the floats forward to valves forward, all pumps running correctly while this happens.
Going to try to pump out the extra from the surge tank after a bump to see if leveling out the water is an issue.