Hi! Am I overlooking this feature? I see that I can visit each forum individually and Mark Read, but not how to do all with a single button press.

I've run into a big problem with copper algacide and its opened up my eyes. I don't want to stain and add unwanted metals to my pools. I don't want algae either. What is an effective algacide that doesn't have problematic metals? I've relied on pool rx and swimtrine for most of my successful algae treatment, now I'm experiencing metals issues (draining, staining) and curious what everyone is using. Ive had some success with bromine salts and 'poly 60' but seems like it takes an awful lot of those to keep algae at bay.

Questions for you guys. I learned something new every year and this forum has been a great resource.
So I have 15 foot Intex above ground pool with the 2800 series Intex sand filter and I just use the basic Intex skimmer basket that hangs over the side of the railing.
Yes, one day I intend on getting the Hayward skimmer that goes in the side of the pool, but I haven’t done it yet because quite honestly I don’t trust myself to cut a hole in the side of the pool and not end up with leaks lol but that’s another story LOL!!

My question today is when I plug off one of the inlet ports so that the skimmer gets better suction, my pump becomes markedly louder because of the air being sucked in. I have tried using a plug that had the little tiny hole in it to let minimal water through and I have also tried using a plug that was solid to just close it off and I have the same issue. If I have both ports open, the pump is so quiet I forget it’s running and it’s beautiful. But then, of course I get no suction at the skimmer and its effectively not doing its job

So my question.. is this normal? I feel like it isn’t because I can see the air bubbles going through the line and it does cause the pipe to pulse occasionally. And I know that’s not good for the motor.
So what is the trick? Do you guys just bypass that one inlet all together and run one hose straight from the pump to the skimmer port? I currently have it teed off to where one hose is going to each port and then converging in the third hose that goes to the pump.

Worked fine last year, then got switched to its new app Pentair Pool and won't connect at all. Unplugged, reset, etc.
Nothin'.

Any ideas??

Thanks everyone!

I found one old thread on the blue nexus. Is anyone using the pro version? I don’t find much reviews.

I just purchased a scuba s1 pro and it will not pair with the app. When i use the app it does not have the correct information for the device wifi and will not connect. Can anyone shed some light on this process?

I have a Maytronics M600 that is now out of warranty. The unit will start forward, start backwards, and the impeller will go for a few second. At that time it shuts off and indicates with the Red LED on the front of the cleaner and ultimately the red ring on the power supply. Things I have looked at:

1. impeller is clear of any debris, and it moves freely in both directions
2. I have cleaned all intakes and debris basket
3. brushes and gears work in both directions
4. no moisture in the motor box
5. no burnt up ends, cables, or connections that can be seen in the motor box of the unit
6. tested the battery pack and got 29
7. looked at the internals of the anti-twist cable enclosure and none of the connections in the plug are damaged or corroded
8. tested continuity from the anti-twist device to the motor of the unit and it does

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

We just moved and after being stored for 4 years I tried my M500 in our new home's fiberglass pool. It doesn't climb well and missed dirt on the steps. I also got an impeller 1 error message a few times but there really wasn't much of anything on the impeller. Looking on the Maytronic's site I found two dealers listed in my area. The first said that they only service the S20 model that they sell and I will xcall the other today. Now I'm wondering if I can fix the M500 myself or to just buy another robot.

I don't want to spend another 1k on a robot. The current sale prices on the Palmate bots has my interest piqued. I can't find much info on them but at $500 I suspect that this is only a few hundred more than a Dolphin repair when shipping costs are factored in to the equation.

I too have 3 non working ariels all with different problems. I would love to get them out of my shed. Would gladly sell

These look really good, seem to have recently come to the USA, has anyone tried one and confirm that its good or not? Particularly worried if it gets stuck on the drains like most seem to do lately.

Hello all
I am getting ready to open my pool. Today I disconnected my pump so that I could lub the O-rings. I can not get the O-rings to stay in their grooves during reassembly. The suction side one mostly stays in place, the one on the discharge will not stay in the groove. Any suggestions

Thanks

My aftermarket 40,000 gallon ‘T-15 equivalent’ cell from Leslies finally fatigued its way to ineffective status after about 12,000 hours (3 years at 11hrs/day). I just replaced it with this other aftermarket see-thru version called Simple Cell from poolguysupply for $399 and it seems to be working well. I keep the original ~$900 Hayward Aquarite T-15 cell stored as a spare.

Always wanting a better or cheaper DIY alternative, I thought I would see if there are some combos of metallurgists or chemists who might be familiar with the manufacturing process, such that it might be possible to re-coat the old cell? Some space-age titaniumish uraniumish metal paint from Sherwin Williams? A crazed thought perhaps. First problem is opening the sealed case and then exposing the plates. Then work the space-age paint onto the cells and find a reliable way to re-seal the cartridge.

I had acid bathed the leslies cell perhaps 6 times across the 3 years to remove calcium buildup. I’m getting less buildup these days, now that I’m allowing TA to drift down toward 50PPM and I’m no longer in the big fight between TA and acid while the ph would continuously try to rise and cause calcium buildup. So I hope for even greater longevity in the new cell. The revelation to stop chasing my tail with TA-then-Acid came from many great and appreciated TFP authors and is available circa post 49++ in Iron stain from pool salt - all or most salts have iron.

I’m guessing the recoat idea is a nonstarter, so perhaps the only space is between my ears? Cheers.

I have an IC40 with no lights active on the cell itself. I saw the 12 amp fuse/low voltage breaker was tripped, and thought replacing it would remedy the issue but it hasn't. I've seen vids that indicate the salt board could be the problem, other input claims the entire cell is bad. What evidence is needed to determine the true issue at hand? Easytouch control panel.

I wanted to share my experience with saltcellsupply.com to allow people to judge for themselves if they should enter into business with this company.

Abbreviated Timeline:
May 2023 - The cells of my Jacuzzi SWG started to fail, and finding a replacement was difficult at best. I came across saltcellsupply.com, and in a helpful email exchange with them, they recommended that their salt cell replacement would function well. I decided to buy the generic replacement because it was based by a generous 5-year warranty. I installed the cell, and it worked great.

March 2025 - The replacement cell began to fail in the same way that the old one did. I verified the salt ppm and cleaned the cell, but it continued to display a low salt error.
I reached out reached out to the company using their online form explaining the situation.
Two days passed with no answer.
I reached out again via the online form.
Two days passed with no answer.
I looked up the two-year-old email thread, and I replied to that email explaining the situation.
Two days passed with no answer.
I found an email on their website, and I emailed them with that address.
Two days passed with no answer.
I used one of my different email accounts and emailed their listed address asking a question about the differences between the performance of the generic and OEM cells.
I received a reply within 40 minutes. (I sent the email about 10 pm in the Mountain Time Zone.)
I replied to that email with my cell situation.
Two days passed with no answer.
I emailed them back expressing my displeasure and explained that I will have to share this experience.
Two days passed with no answer.
I tried another online form on their website.
It has been a couple of weeks, and I still have not had any contact from the company about my inquiries into their warranty.

I can't see how this does not illustrate poor communication at best and deceptive business practices at worst. Has anyone else experienced something similar with this company? Or, have people had luck in receiving any level of customer service? If so, what is the secret?

At this point, given the seemingly lack of availability of replacement cells for my system, I am looking to replacing the whole SWG.

Hello everyone, My name is Max! I’m new to the forum and I’m a first time pool owner. I love my new pool but I could enjoy it a lot better once I learn how to control my chlorine and free chlorine. My readings are 0. Otherwise, having this addition to my backyard has created a new recreational area and I’ve discovered, I love the outdoors. Please be patient with me I am a beginner and new to pool community. There’s much to learn and I am excited about this amazing opportunity. Have an awesome day!

Ok, I'm SLAMMING briefly as I think i'm good, doing OCLT tonight, but my last 2 tests my chlorine has gone UP and I haven't added any. My salt is 1000 so my SWG isn't working but just to confirm I shut it off. I have never had this happen but now I question my OCLT ability. I did the last 2 twice to make sure I wasn't messing up. at 4:20 I tested at 12.5, 6:40 14 and 8:20 16. Is this even possible? I only added chlorine once today. 2 gallons this afternoon to get it up to 12 for a SLAM.

Hi everyone,
I have an IC-60 that is several years old and I’ve just opened my pool and am finishing up a SLAM and I went to turn down the SWCG and it won’t turn down! Its stuck at 100% and I cannot get it to activate the “boost” mode by pressing both buttons down either!

My chlorine is around 17ppm and has been holding steady and slightly climbing now that the algae is gone so I know it’s still working. I have changed the run time on the pump/chlorinator to a 8 hours instead of 24 hours like I usually do to compensate for the increased chlorine - I have a variable speed pump and it runs around 1400rpm for 16 hours a day and 2500 the rest of the time. I usually have the IC-60 set to 10% to maintain my chlorine level.

My question is can I take apart the front panel of the IC-60 and repair or replace those buttons? Is that what’s wrong even? Can the ic-60 even be taken apart? I haven’t taken it out of the plumbing to look at it yet since it’s still working… at 100%

I teach electronics and robotics and can solder well and have everything I would need in order to replace parts on a circuit board.

Thanks in advance!

I'm looking to buy some standard #10 expanding rubber winterizing plugs with nylon wing nut. Where do you buy yours from?
I've seen them range from $3.50ea -$12.50ea! Is there really a difference between them.
Online reviews are all over the place.

Thanks in advance.

Hey guys. Just wondering if any of the epoxy filler are worth doing and last a hard winter. I have white marble decking. Beautiful but good lord it is not very durable. It is set on a 2 inch slab to avoid settling in sand. Anyway, we have quite a few cracks here and there, along with corners crushed. I’m was going to try a product to fill them in but wondering if anybody had any experience.

Hello. I’m new to the forum and looking forward to getting some honest advice. I have had a 25,000 litre above ground pool since 2020. But it has been a struggle with me breaking heaters. The first heater went after two years (heat exchanger) and they warrantied the heater and then installed a new one which lasted one season (combustion issue) and then blew again. They warrantied another heater and this one blew in a year too (again combustion issue). Now I have a fourth heater going into my fifth season that has never been used yet. My water chemistry has been good and I test regularly. Salt levels are no higher than 3100, the PH is always in the normal range, chlorine is usually on the low side 1-2 ppm and I did struggle with phosphates creeping up because we back to a ravine. When it gets around 700 I use no phosphate and it clears up. My question is this, are these heaters breaking down because I have a salt pool? As I’m considering switching to chlorine and installing Clear Blue system as I can’t keep breaking these heaters. Can anyone help with some knowledge here. Thank you.

I had an old Jandy RS16 based system which I had to upgrade from a single speed filter pump to a variable speed pump. I had my system upgraded to the 3HP Pentair Intelliflow VSP controlled by the new Jandy iAqualink 3.0 WIFI connected app. Everything worked fine but when I turned off the solar schedule last year, I must have messed things up. Based on some research online, it appears my solar JVA is aux3. The JVA works manually with the switch. But when I look in my app schedule the solar is gone and under "main menu", "system setup", "label aux", aux3 ( the solar aux is missing. It starts with aux1, aux2, aux4, ....au7, auxB1..... etc..) It looks like when I turned off my solar schedule, I somehow caused the existence of aux3 or any reference to solar in my app to vanish.

Does anyone know how to put solar ( I believe is the missing aux3) control back in the label auxiliaries list. I believe that since its not listed in the auxiliaries labeling, its name is not available for scheduling. So solar via the JVA valve cannot be controlled by the Jandy via the app. At least that's what I believe. Am I on the right track and if so or not, how do I get my solar JVA control back so I can schedule it? The solar JVA 24VAC wires are connected to the solar JVA connector on the main board top right but its not actually called aux3. Its just labelled "solar JVA". I figured that out on Google searches that aux3 was typically the solar JVA control. But its integrated on the main board so not labeled aux3.

Its also the one missing in my auxiliary labeling list. That makes me suspicious that I somehow deleted the label by accident.

Any thoughts appreciated. The pool guy who did the new pump and installed the VSP and iAqualink, has been away. I was hoping to figure it out before he was available. The whole setup is much more complicated than my old RS16 panel. I should be able to figure it out but its not that straightforward. Any help appreciated. The pool teperature is set to 90 degrees but I have no control over the rooftop temperature sensor. I suspect that even once properly labeled I'll need a warm day so the solar JVA is activated because the pool is cold and solar panels hot. I'll try that manully on the next warm day in service mode.

I live in a windy area and my pool is at risk from time to time of getting very dirty from dirt/leaves etc. Are non-chlorine shocks recommended in this case or should I just rely on manual cleaning etc? I almost never deal with algae because my chemicals are always kept within proper levels so I don’t ever use cal hypo and would just slam instead. Thank you.

What could this be. I scratched on it and it comes off after while.

Is it really possible that my green swamp only needs 3 1/2 cups of chlorine to clear it up? Fc level .5 cya 30

Hey all - I don’t know why, and I’m sure this could apply to all members, but I sometimes go weeks without thinking about posting something, especially when the pool’s closed.

But the winter cover is off!

I took it off myself this past Saturday, which was kind of a bear but once I got a game plan it was folded up into its handy bag in short order.

The water was as clear as when we closed the pool back in early November.

The cover I just undid all of the tensioners pulled it down to one end then filed it in 4’ wide sections, lengthwise, and shop vac’s it as I went. I’m sure it would have been much more of a snap with two people, but that’s one less thing the ooo guys have to do when they come.

And yes I do want to eventually open/close myself, but I need to watch these guys for a few times before I undertake that.

Anyhow, the past few days I spent a few hours each day blowing leaves around and then using a vacuum cleaner to clean the artificial grass, which sounds absurd, and likely looked so to my neighbors, but it works great.

I’ve been dropping some liquid chlorine in since I haven’t put the solar cover on.

And one other thing of note: it’s noticeably quiet without the pump running, or the heater for that matter. But once the system’s started up, it’ll run 24/7 until we close (1.5hp single speed). We did have the electrician put a timer on the pad, and I may elect to put the pump on a timer at some point just to see how it changes anything, but I like the idea of constantly moving/skimming/filtering, and the salt cell constantly making chlorine since the yard is basically full sun all day.

Any, looking forward to reading back through the forums for things I want to chime in or ask about.

Hoping this post is in the right forum.

Hi All! I have a HC3315 chlorinator and I’m trying to figure out if one of the protrusions at the bottom of the housing that keeps the filter screen in place is missing. I only have three protrusions so I believe the filter screen is not being held in place properly as it would be with four protrusions or Dots that extend up from the bottom of the housing. Can anyone tell me the correct number of protrusions that should exist at the bottom of the housing?

Do I need to install a valve to prevent water flowing back to the pool whenever I open the pump basket, or is a valve not necessary?
The instructions for the pump say to never run the pump without water:

Here is a thumbnail picture of my pump inlet with a ruler:


Whenever I try to clean my pump basket, the pump drains back toward the pool skimmer, or at least straight down to a pool level (if assuming the horizontal pipe running to the pool is all below pool level). I can't prime the pump with a bucket of water, because the water just immediately drains out, so when priming it sucks air for some time before it gets any water. I did finally install a Hayward manual 3-way diverter valve between the pump and the filter, so at least I can block the filter from draining. The pump was installed at an unknown time by the previous house owner (we bought the house in Sept 2021), so the pump has been run this way for years. Hope it is not damaged.

A few facts (not sure if any of these are important besides the length of inlet pipe before the pump):
-pump inlet is higher than the pool surface by 12-14 inches.
-there is 2" pipe entering the pump, but you can see 1.5" copper pipe going underground to the pool skimmer.
-horizontal distance from pump to skimmer is 26 ft.

If it is best to install a valve at the pump inlet, then do I have enough straight inlet pipe to do this?
If okay to install a valve, are there any suggestions on the type?

Thanks!

New home owner, has zero knowledge about pools. Pool was closed for 1-2 years because we did not open it last year. We're in central Connecticut.

I have the TF-Pro kit. I assumed I was starting from 0 FC. Chemistry or science was never my fav subject in school.

Two days ago, I dumped 2 gallons of liquid chlorine (Champion, 12.5%) into the pool (as recommended for SLAM). Water temperature is about 58°F.

The 10ml remains clear after adding a scoop of the R-0870 powder. I've tried it three times now (new 10ml of pool water). Still clear, which means 0 FC. The powder isn't dissolved in the pool water in the cylinder.

Please help me understand why it's still 0 FC.

Edited to include photograph taken this morning.

Good morning all,

SOUTHERN NJ HERE. So I made the mistake of asking on a facebook group and that was more useless than anything, few good points made but other than that is was the people bashing what I want to do . Have been trying to get quotes for about a month for a May installation and due to their communication and info they provide I really liked Niagra Pools & Spas in Turnersville NJ. The 3 others I contacted either never contacted me back or once they did it was like phone tag to get ahold of them, not something I want to deal with during installation! Pricing from Niagra Pool quote are below, this is semi-in ground approximately 30":

$17,595 -Pool Package: 18' x 33' x 56" Sharkline* Oasis EAW (Extruded Aluminum Wall) pool, Liner, 1.5hp 120v variable speed pump and filter, skimmer, 1 return port, cover, and maintenance/cleaning kit
$1,100 - Salt chlorinator system w/salt
$350 - Wedding cake steps
$200 - Wall foam
$2,900 - Pool Installation
$22,145 total cost for pool

Site Work Quote:
$5,000 - Excavation and haul away of soil in addition to about 5 yards of fill that's in a pile at our property
$3,200 - Backfill of pool using excavated soil: will need to be moved by hand due to space

If your anything like me you probably pooped a bit with the number for site work lol, I will say the guy that came out to do a site visit told me moving dirt is expensive, not bashing them at all, labor aint cheap!! Highly considering doing the site work myself, pool guy told me that isn't an issue with any of their warranties and they will come out to check when it's done for right depth/level. Sunbelt was under $3,000 for a week rental of a 6 ton mini excavator, 7 yard Dump, and ground protection pads. Don't think it will take a week but quote that for worst case. Before anyone says it, I know this is around 70 yards of dirt, I know it's not easy, and as far as operating I dug the foundation for my garage (blue building in the pic) and my patio by myself for the most part, I'm no expert but I can operate, I own a transit and a laser level; just getting all that out there because that's what everyone wanted to comment on with the FB post .

With all that being said I had a few questions for additions and backfill

Backfill:
-Sandy soil in my area, good to just use what comes out of the hole for backfill?
-Recommend any barrier between ground and exterior of pool wall?
-Was also thinking pavers OR rubber mulch/river rock/pebbles 24" around pool

Install/Pool Add-ons:
-Liner pad OR Perlite on top of sand base
-Foam coving
-Additional return jet on far wall
-Hard pipe everything (would be extra for pool Co. to do
-Larger pump? is a 1.5hp good enough for 20k gallons?

Anything else that you would recommend is appreciated. We aren't rich but we aren't broke either lol. We are kind of doing the bare minimum for it this year with a small exterior entry step with plans of doing landscaping, lighting, larger entry deck/step, and some other add-ons NEXT season or winter since we are already doing some fencing this year during the install.

Thank you for the help! Site pics are attached, sorry they are crappy I was outside last night marking. And the yard will be spotless prior to starting! Have to move the wood pile and purge some out to the curb! Also, setbacks are correct and marked on the pics along with the pool shape. Out township requires 6' from p[roperty lines and we have a 20' utility easement on the far side.

I've just had a chlorine generator installed. I've had the skimmer crack and leak twice last year, so its being replaced. I now have leaks around the motor on an eight year old Pentair Superflow pump. Had all this not happened at this time, I'd fork out the replacement cost by having a new Pentair installed for me. Its hard and not a lot of options. I'm looking at a Black+Decker replacement with DIY installation.

The output side plumbing was just redone. In input side has not room left to cut out and replumb without cutting out the shutoff valve and going into a block wall. Nobody is too exited about this as the pool water line is above the pump and plumbing. The original Pentair unions were replaced after cracking in the last 3 months.

The reading I've done make it seems as if the B+D can be a direct replacement, without the need to replumb.

If its just a matter of screwing down the input and output with some Teflon tape and hooking up two electrical legs and a ground, I think I can handle it.

I'm looking for any input from somebody that has just directly swapped a Pentair with a B+D pump in case there are issues I'm taking into consideration to do this myself.

Thanks