We are replacing the vinyl liner in a 1993 16x32 IG pool. We don't swim at night, light is under diving board. Light's plastic collar has been cracked and breaking for awhile, I am always concerned kids will poke at it, although not many children swimming here anymore. I know we could replace the collar, but I'd rather just get rid of the light. One company wants to "cover the light with foam" and then cover the foam with the liner. Another company wants to remove light and put a "plate" over the hole (unsure if plate is metal, plastic, other). My concerns: 1) is the foam going to stay adhered to the light for the duration of the liner?, and 2) will a "plate" absorb pressure from someone pushing off from that spot?, and 3) will the edges of the "plate" wear the liner? Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.

We have been doing our research and my wife and I are torn on which to go with. The PB have us a few days to decide as construction started today.

Thoughts? And why?

We recently installed a new Rheem Raypac Crosswind 8550 electric heat pump. At the time of install the tech said we did not need to install an external bypass on the plumbing as there was an internal bypass already. My question how can we access that bypass and reduce the water flow? Since the install my floor pop ups are not working as before and from what I can figure out the flow to the heater is full force and needs to be reduced. Thanks

Has anyone found a way in 2025 to integrate the OmniPL with Google Home as Hayward said from release that would be possible? I called support, they said that someone would call me back which never happened, I searched for it, nothing. There are some instructions on how you may integrate it with Home Assistant but it seems cumbersome and a bit of a long shot.

Logging into https://haywardomnilogic.com you can still go to Settings > Nest (Works with Nest) and click Login to Nest, but Nest has been gone for a long time. So this also tells me that Hayward is not putting any effort whatsoever into this interface, I mean it would have a 10 year old 5 minutes to hide a button and tab.

Anyway, any ideas or should I let go of this?

This will be the second one that I have to break it to open. But why it get stuck so easily. I barely smeared very little Magic Lube around the thread this time.
I have read all the posts about this problem. Nope. I still can't open it.

Long story short, my PB saddled me with a BlueWorks version and I am looking into other options. I have read that CircuPool would be a great option and seeing if this model would work. Thanks!

I have water coming out from the underside of my 5' concrete deck that surrounds one side of the pool. It is in a direct line with my Paramount paralevel automatic water leveler. I shut off the valve to the water leveler and the water flow stopped. I tried to take the float out of the cannister to see if there's any cracks or other signs of a leak, but I can't get that float out. I pushed down and tried to give it a counterclockwise 1/4 turn, but that float assembly is stuck. There's not much room in the cannister to get a good grip on it and I feel like if I use channelock's on it for a good grip I'll probably just bust off the riser or something. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

For now, it's a small leak. Maybe 8 weeks ago, I started noticing there was air in the system (lots of bubbles) when the pump started up but I didn't see a leak. My pump is about 9 years old (motor spec pic was taken in Dec 2015) and it's still working fine but I can finally see where it's leaking. I'm not sure if it's actually the pump motor itself or at the connection to the next piece. I don't know the correct names of all the pieces parts. I went to YouTube to see what it would take for me to replace the pump motor and it looks doable...with y'all's help! Does anything other than the pump motor typically need to be changed when changing the pump motor? What is the name of the part with the metal band around it with a handle? Is that white piece between the pump motor and the big, flat round part made out of concrete? This is the YouTube video I watched about how to change the pump motor:
Login to view embedded media . I found a couple of motors that look like mine on Amazon in the range of $200 but I haven't done any other online shopping yet. Looking for any advice and warnings. Let me know if you want additional photos. This pump does everything we need so not looking to install anything different.

Good day everyone. Forgive me if I make any errors as this is my first post. I have a 2 year old Hayward Heatpro heat pump 140k. Very cold winter in Georgia. When i went to turn turn off the water bypass, i heard a strong leak in the bottom. The pvc at the very bottom is cracked. Of course, I saw a post from 6 years ago but the website stated the info was too old and I had to start a new post. This is such a simple parts repair for pvc but Hayward states they have to replace the entire exchanger for $2K. The PVC parts by themselves cannot be any more than $50. Is there anyone out there that has experienced this and can share what they did to fix it? I can see that i can cut the bottom pvc straight pipe and simple put on a new elbow and connectors. But I don't have any part numbers or specifics. Please see the 2 pictures as the crack is located at the "X". Thank you for your assistance. Scott.

I'm in the middle of getting quotes to renovate our 30 year old pool, replaster, new tile, coping... the works. But as our equipment is all 15+ years old that have given us headaches over the recent years, we figure it's time to bite the bullet and replace it all. We just want a reliable, smoothly running beautiful pool. I've been spec-ing out what I think should be what I need.

I'm located in Northern California, in-ground pool is ~20,000 gallons with a raised spa w/ spillway. Currently have a DE filter, but looking to move to cartridge to avoid the messiness of cleaning and recharging it.

Here's what I've put together:


I'm not very pool savvy, I just basically manage the chem levels and regular cleaning/maintenance. I don't know much more beyond that, so any feedback on if this seems like an appropriate setup and/or other things to consider before we undertake the project would be greatly appreciated!

Hi. I’ve read previous posts on the comparison, but can’t get a good feel for which pump. I’ve done the head calculations and the 1.85 HP is fine. I would consider the 2.7 if it is significantly more quiet because it may run at a lower speed (neighbors ). I am installing myself so the Pentair 90 day warranty is disqualifying for me. Opinions?

Does anyone know how to remove this black part?



I have a bunch of hair and plant material jamming up the impeller. My unit is a Polaris freedom but I found the part number R0895700 and it looks like it fits the EPIC line and the JCRX cleaners. I dont see a screw or anything on the top side so im wondering if the unit has to come apart or something.

Good day all I have a pool heater which turns on at the breaker but no instructions on how to operate any help appreciated

Also is there a panel I can retro fit to see the water temperature and operation

Hello,

I'm thinking about changing my pump. My existing pump is some generic Black and Decker 2 speed 1.5hp that looks like it was built in a Chinese build house that makes store brand stuff. Available speeds are 1720 and 3450 rpm. It has a qmax rating of 92gpm. I imagine that's the max flow at 3450 rpm. Per the label, it pulls 12amps on high speed and 4.8 on low speed. Last year I ran it on high for 7 hours a day. This year I was planning on running it on low for longer period of time.

This year, Ill need it to flow enough for a mastertemp 300 to operate. The flow range on it is 30-120gpm. I have no clue what the existing pump flows on low. Maybe someone here knows.

I plan on using a Pentair IC40 next year. The flow range on that is ~25 to 80 before a bypass is recommended and I didnt build a bypass for where it's going. I could add one though.

Im GUESSING that my pump on low will flow enough for the heater and salt cell. On high, it may be good for the heater, but possibly too much for the salt cell. I won't know until I try it.

Now, Im obsessing over maybe buying a new pump.

Im considering the Pentair Superflo 1.5 or Intelliflo pumps. The 3hp is way overkill for my basic pool, but I see people saying to get the bigger pump and run it low. I also like that it has 2 inch unions since I have 2" plumbing. I feel like a 1.5 is already bigger than I need but I want opinions on that.

I have an intelliconnect which Penair says is compatible with Superflo, Whisperflo and Intelliflo pumps. I only see Intelliflo in the app as an option, but they stated in an email that those 3 pumps can be controlled via rs485. I would need their connector and only us 2 wires on it.

I should also note that I can easily change from 120v to 240v if I need to.

Also, with the new plumbing, I get a whirlpool in my skimmer with the existing pump on high. Its not enough to suck in air, but its clearly visible.

Im leaning towards a superflow 1.5 if I can control the running RPM in the Intelliconnect app.

What are everyone's thoughts?

I recently did the MA and Borax addition. I am curious about the reason to run the pump 24-48 hrs. Are they a bit hard to mix on some level? I am running the pump that way, and followed TFP guide for ranges before adding the two and it is going great.

Oops! Just realized I may have added too much borax. I will test at 48 hrs. I have a lot of evaporation here so frequently add some water.

Hello - I am having my 21' above ground re-installed tomorrow in upstate NY due to an issue with the pool wall which was about 12 years old. I bought a new pump and filter as they were 12 years old also. I was interested in salt, but the only option at the pool store was the Simple Salt system which they called "hybrid" - I'm not sure if this was just based on availability or because a full salt system doesn't work in above grounds in our climate.

In any event, from what I have found on this board and others, it seems this system is an overall negative as it's not a true 'salt' system and only releases copper to keep the pool clear, not necessarily clean. The 'instructions' indicate to just add 'shimmer' (shock) and 'vivid' (clarifier) weekly, and that's supposed to be enough.

Anyone with a good experience using this system, or am I better off leaving it out and returning it and maintaining on standard chlor tabs and shock? Installers will be plumbing the new external runs to the pump/filter, so don't want to bother installing if I'm better off not using it.

Thanks!

How much chlorine in gallons do most folks use? Walmart has free shipping for $35+ and wondering if buying 7 gallons at once is too much or not

Pool specs:
Pool Perimeter 104'
Length 31' Width 21' Pool Sq.Ft, 743
Depth 3'6"- 5'- 4"
Pool Gallons 14,634

Spa specs:
Spa Perimeter 30' Length 7'6" Width 7'6" Spa Sq.Ft, 56
Depth 3'6"
Spa Gallons 683

Equipment
Pentair Intellicenter P/S i5 - W/Salt IC40
Pentair IntelliFlo3 VSF
Polaris Robotic Cleaner Freedom Cordless Robotic Cleaner
Pentair 520 C/C Filter
Pentair Transformer - 300w Pentair
Pentair MicroBrite Light W/Clear Water Stop – 3 lights
Pentair Skimmer – 2 each
Pentair Master Temp 400 Heater - NG

Pool Plumbing
Includes: 5 - 2" returns, 2 - 2" dedicated skimmers, and 2.5" main drain.

Spa Plumbing
Includes: 3" main drain, 2.5" return line, 2" air-line, 1.5" fountain, 6 - 1.5" spa jets.

There will be 2 sheer descents on the raised wall.
I’m considering doing a 4-5-4 depth rather than 3.5-5-4.
We decided to not do the tanning ledge and plan to carry the steps all the way to the spa.
We are also planning to install a deck mounted basketball hoop on the end opposite of the stairs.
Looking for any suggestions or feedback.

I know this is a bit off subject, but I just put in a bypass because I will be installing a heat pump. I am down to a Hayward and the same Raypac you installed. It may be too early, but do you have any advice/opinions on buying the Raypac? Thx

Moved from here.

I have been battling this for a while. From the pictures the pool get this brown dusting on the flat surfaces (steps, seats and in the bottom along the edges. I brush it and vacuum and it will stay gone for a day or so. Brushes very easy like a cloud of dust. At first I thought it was dirt for the rain. But we haven't had any rain in over a week. My numbers look good. Cleaned the cartridge filter the other day and wow!!! was it brown.
FC 6
TA 80
PH 7.4-7.5
CH 190-200
Salt 2900
I plan starting a OCLT tonite.
Am I on the right track.?

I’m planning to replace my single speed Hayward pump with a VS Intelliflo that I got for free.

The Intelliflo has 2” fittings vs the Hayward 1.5” - I already have pool unions to handle this. But, the Intelliflo inlet is a couple of inches higher and needs to be an inch closer to the closest suction line (the closest line is my main drain). I don’t think I will have enough room to fit it in and I don’t love the short straight run into the pump either way.

Any suggestions to handle this? I was thinking of cutting all three lines near the ground and bring the whole section back away from the pump and up as a single piece but that seems a little lazy. Another idea I have is to raise straight vertically and reroute the closest suction line with the others into a 4 way fitting but I think that will require all new valves and fittings. My last idea is to hire out the job but I would like to know how I want it done first!

Thanks!

This looks pretty good to me..

So I may go look at this. They said they boarded brand new 2 years ago for $22,000. Said they could do 13 or 14K possibly. Anyone familiar with this model? Also, I'm assuming that the hot tub needs to be full of water and operational when I go and see it, correct? They said they have they have all the paperwork for when they bought it. So is this Sundance Cameo manufactured in different years so it could be a 2020 or 2022 but have the same name?

I normally just let my pool guy do his work, but recently after winter rains the water got a green tint. So upon my questioning, he added some liquid from a bottle (what I believe was some form of chlorine). After a week the water is still green... so he probably added some more (I did not witness so don't know for sure). Out of curiosity and boredom I ordered test strips and here's the result (see picture).

I'm a total noob but from what I read from the forum posts, I have high Chlorine, low CYA, very low PH and TA. I should add that I used another PH tester and it's showing 5.4 (!)

What's going on in my pool? Did my pool guy try to shock the pool? I know I should talk to him directly over this but I can't reach him now. Also should I immediately add soda to balance the PH?

I have a gunite spa in the corner of my pool. For winterization the former ower's pool service company would remove the jets and also the escutcheon rings. Because of the removal and then the replacement some of the fittings in the wall are now cross threaded. I have new replacement rings but the don't want to clean up the cross threads. The rings measure 2 1/2" and I think the pitch is about 11 or 11.5 TPI. I am thinking of getting a large thread tap but am unsure the exact thread pitch. I think it is a 2 1/2" x 11 or 11.5 TPI.
My question are:
Does anyone know how to repair these?
WHat is the correct pitch?
Where could I get a tap for this?
Do I really need to remove the escutcheon ring for winterization. I would still remove the jets. The spa is complely drained each winter but it can get some snow and ice in it. What is the best practice?

Hello. Last summer I started getting stains on the plaster. Chemicals were perfectly balanced. Got worse and worse. Muriatic acid and a wire brush have no effect on the stains (it's not algae). Please see pictures. Anyone know what these stains are? Time to get plaster resurfaced? Thank you for the help.

I asked a dumb question yesterday and nobody shamed me......so I'll ask another one. In my indoor pool, I have been debating for years whether or not to install UV system. However, there are about 20 flush mount overhead lights. A few have gone out, so I have to hire someone with really tall ladder to replace those bulbs (as I do every few years). They make UV bulbs that screw into regular sockets. So, can I just put UV bulbs over the pool and help out my cc's that way? The ceiling is about 1-1/2 stories tall. If the UV light is a different color, maybe I could alternate UV and regular?

Retirement has come and the kid is off to college. Time for us to enjoy life!

A move (from NC) is in our near future and we’re considering when we want to go. Choice #1 is an area close to (1 mile?) or on the Gulf coast (maybe between Gulf Shores, AL and Panama City Beach, FL).

Priority is a neighborhood of “good people” who enjoy socializing - whether it’s in the backyard, culdesac, or neighborhood clubhouse.

Being around Pensacola, surely there are pockets of military retirees like us?

Price point under $400k’ish (depending on annual HOA or club dues).

Any suggestions of an area, city, town, neighborhood, to check out (or ones to avoid) appreciated!

Over here I got some good advice about how to leave our new pool over the winter. Now it's March, and although St Louis is sure to bring some more chilly weather, it's been a warm March so far, so I'm planning for pool opening. After reading a bunch here, and watching some videos, I think I have a good idea of the very basics, so I'm feeling inspired to try to open myself rather than use the service that closed.

Pool: 17,000 gal, vinyl in-ground, 30ft x 18ft rectangle, Pentair Intellichlor SWG, TF-Pro Salt testing kit

Can you all give me a basic sanity check that I'm on the right track with this opening todo list? This will be my first time opening a pool.

0. I'm think of opening late March. Although the weather won't be warm enough for the family to want to swim, from what I've read it sounds better to open a bit earlier and keep up on water chemistry maintenance rather than opening late and risking warm weather turning the water bad.
1. Remove cover with the metal tool, fold, and put away
2. Cleanup obvious debris in the water, make sure water is around halfway at the skimmer opening
3. Remove jet plugs, point jets up
4. Insert Salt Water Generator (it is currently removed and spacer is it's place) — Question: what setting do I put it on? (see attached picture)
5. Add drain plug and pressure gauge to filter tank
6. Open intake valves — I'm assuming I want them all open at this point (see attached picture)
7. Prime pump by filling with water
8. Turn on pump
Question: what setting do I put the filter on at the beginning — Rise, Recirculate, Backwash, Filter? (see attached picture)
9. Make sure water flowing, no leaks
10. Add robot to start vacuuming and cleaning
11. After letting the water circulate for 30 minutes, test water chemistry
12. Fix water chemistry: this is where I have the biggest questions, so I guess I'll just post my results here once I test, but..
* Some sources say to just focus on chlorine levels at first, to make sure they are high enough to prevent algae from building up
* Other sources like here say to worry about all the levels including salt immediately.
* Since a SWG doesn't work until water is 60 degrees, what type of chlorine should I use in the interim to keep FC levels up?
* I'll be using my TF-Pro salt testing kit for the first time to test chem levels
13. Leave pump running and adjust water chemistry over next couple days
14. Once water levels are stable, keep balanced with regular testing throughout the season

Do I have the basics right? I'd appreciate clarification on steps 4, 8, and 12.

I'm really wanting to try this on my own instead of using a service, so I appreciate your help!