Featured Is this algae!?

crazycasey

Member
May 12, 2024
13
Dayton, NV
Pool Size
18675
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
IMG_4361.jpeg

Hello,

I’m two weeks into trying to open my pool. Second year owning it; I guess I just got lucky last year. This year I’m trying to do things right, but I’ve been making a LOT of mistakes prior to finding this site. There’s so much conflicting info floating around out there…

I have a TFP FAS-DPD kit on the way to upgrade my Taylor DPD test kit, but it won’t be here until Tuesday. In the meantime, and for the last week, I’ve been trying to keep FC around 9-10ppm, which is as much as I can read on my DPD test using a 50% diluted sample. I’d love to start a SLAM RIGHT NOW, because I’m sick of cleaning sludge out of my cartridge filter every day. Can I do that!?

The reason I ask “is this algae” is because my FC is remaining relatively high. But my BRAND NEW Starite System 3 cartridges are clogging up in just a few hours. I’m getting lots of slimey residue between the pleats which is taking me a long time and a TON of water to clean. When the Crud I wash out of the filter dries, it looks like this:

IMG_4360.jpeg

So, is that algae, or do I have something else going on? And I know I can use Pool Math to start my SLAM, but is there a safe rule of thumb that I can use to keep my FC levels high enough for 5 more days while I’m waiting for my FAS-DPD kit to arrive?

Here are my full test results:

FC 10ppm
TC 10ppm
pH 7.2 (got my waterfall running 24/7 trying to bring this up
TA 110ppm
CYA 60ppm
CH 475ppm
CSI -0.19
Temp 72°

Pool details in signature.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Casey
 
Yeah algae. You will be cleaning the filter a lot.

Add 5ppm of liquid chlorine a day until the kit arrives.

When you have the kit, start the Slam. Link-->SLAM Process

Clean the filter and note clean pressure. When the pressure rises 25%, clean them again.
 
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Clean the filter and note clean pressure. When the pressure rises 25%, clean them again.

I physically can’t. I’m seeing that rise roughly every 3 hours, and it takes me over an hour to do. I did them twice yesterday and once today. Even after doing it twice yesterday, the pressure had doubled by morning (21psi to 40psi). Which is why I wanted to try and start the SLAM early…

Welcome
Here is what I would say to you. Be very sure of what your CYA is because using less liquid chlorine (of the purest kind) then the slam ratio of cl/cya will be a fruitless fight.

I’m pretty sure. I can barely make out the dot at 60ppm, and I definitely can’t see it at 50. My cloudiness could be making it read a touch higher, but probably not 10ppm.
 
I physically can’t. I’m seeing that rise roughly every 3 hours, and it takes me over an hour to do. I did them twice yesterday and once today. Even after doing it twice yesterday, the pressure had doubled by morning (21psi to 40psi). Which is why I wanted to try and start the SLAM early…
You will need to find a way. Slam isn't going to change the number of times you will have to clean the filters. Adding 5ppm per day will stop the algae GROWTH until you have your kit. We do not recommend you SLAM with DPD. Anyway you can get someone to help you with the filters...there really is no way around it, save for draining, and that presents issues. Read this carefully if you decide to drain...and should consider a no drain water exchange...Won't eliminate the filter issue, but might help it...

 
You will need to find a way.

Can I ask you where the 25% figure comes from. I see that a lot on here. Is it just considered a “best practice”? Starite recommends cleaning at 10psi over base. If I keep to twice a day, and do my second cleaning just before bed, I can probably hit that goalpost. I can’t quit my job to do this, and I live in the sticks…

For context, the FC is just at the top end of the normal range with the CYA at 60 when theres no algae. With Algae it’s gotta be way closer to SLAM level to do much.

Yes, I’m aware. Normal range is 5-9, and SLAM is 24 @ 60ppm CYA.
 
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Can I ask you where the 25% figure comes from. I see that a lot on here. Is it just considered a “best practice”? Starite recommends cleaning at 10psi over base. If I keep to twice a day, and do my second cleaning just before bed, I can probably hit that goalpost. I can’t quit my job to do this, and I live in the sticks…
Manufactures will often tell pool owners to clean their filter when the pressure rises by 8-10 PSI. This may have been ok when pumps were much larger and plumbing was much smaller resulting in much higher clean filter pressures but with the move towards making swimming pools more energy efficient, larger plumbing combined with smaller pumps has resulted in much lower clean filter operating pressures. Under these conditions, allowing the filter pressure to rise by 8-10 PSI can drastically reduce the efficiency of the pump. So to minimize energy efficiency losses, we recommend that you clean your filter before the pressure rises by 25%.

Do what you can!

 
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Ok, so, I guess I’m not very good at listening to directions, so I apologize for that, AND the long post.

I went ahead and raised my FC level to 24ppm on Thursday night and have kept it between 18-24ppm using a 1/6th diluted sample and my DPD kit ever since.

My TF FAS/DPD kit arrived on Tuesday, and based on my testing with that kit, I’ve been right on the money with my FC levels. In the first several days it took me 2x gallons/day of 10% chlorine to keep the pool at 24ppm, but in the last several days, it’s only taken 1 gallon/day to keep it there.

Honestly, I’m glad I didn’t listen, because my water cleared up in less than 48 hours, after getting the FC up, and my filter quit requiring multiple cleanings per day in the same amount of time.

So, the water is crystal clear, now. Enough so that I can see that I have some staining and calcium deposit issues on the plaster, but that’s another story for another day.

IMG_4415.jpeg

I wasn’t sure if I had mustard algae, or pollen, so I raised FC to 35ppm for 24 hours just in case. I’ve cleaned every nook and cranny, including inside skimmers and behind lights. I’ve been brushing and vacuuming every day.

So on to the OCLT, right!?

I believe I have TWO persisting issues:

First, I think I’m seeing a persistent 0.5ppm CC. My FC test always goes to a VERY slightly pink hued clear 1 drop before it goes perfectly clear. Once I get to “clear” and I add my 5 drops of R-003, the water goes back to that very slightly pink-hued clear, and one more drop of R-0871 brings it back perfectly clear again.

Is that considered 0.5ppm CC!? Is 0.5ppm CC considered an issue or is more than 0.5ppm CC considered an issue?

Second, I performed my OCLT’s at 7:15pm and 6:00am. Sunset was at 8:15pm, and sunrise at 5:30am. There was no direct sunlight on the pool when I tested, but it was still pretty bright out. I recorded a 2.5ppm overnight loss. I did wake up to a dozen or so bugs and a fair bit of sand at the bottom of the pool. My skimmer was also full of leaves. These things are unavoidable where I live, and tbh, I’m just glad there were no frogs, lizards, or mice this morning, as is often the case (see my introduction post title and picture me rolling my eyes as I type this).

Anyway, no amount of brushing seems to solve my staining issues, and I’d really rather enjoy my pool for the two months it’s actually swimmable here, than drain it in June to fix plaster issues. Honestly, I’d probably fill it in before I fixed it, at this point.

Anyway, this is all my long-winded way of saying I don’t understand what’s still in the water to cause my chlorine loss. Could the hour and a half of indirect light have contributed to a 2.5ppm loss? Or perhaps the debris that went into the pool overnight!?

I was going to try again tonight after dark, and before first light (ugh).

Any more advice?
 
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Anyway, this is all my long-winded way of saying I don’t understand what’s still in the water to cause my chlorine loss. Could the hour and a half of indirect light have contributed to a 2.5ppm loss? Or perhaps the debris that went into the pool overnight!?

I was going to try again tonight after dark, and before first light (ugh).

Any more advice?
It means you just need to keep the slam going. Needing to perform a slam and having it finished in 48 hours is pretty unlikely. so you probably just need to keep going for a day or two longer. Adding all the extra chlorine just wastes it to the sun, it doesn’t make it go any faster.

Go swim! If its warm enough.
 
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Needing to perform a slam and having it finished in 48 hours is pretty unlikely.

I’ve had the FC at SLAM level for a week now. The water cleared up in 48 hours once I started, but I only got my FAS/DPD test kit a couple days ago to perform the OCLT. I tested tonight a few minutes before sunset, and I’ll try to get up before sunrise tomorrow to see if it’s any closer.

CC tonight was 0.5ppm again, if I am doing the test right…
 
I’ve had the FC at SLAM level for a week now. The water cleared up in 48 hours once I started, but I only got my FAS/DPD test kit a couple days ago to perform the OCLT. I tested tonight a few minutes before sunset, and I’ll try to get up before sunrise tomorrow to see if it’s any closer.

CC tonight was 0.5ppm again, if I am doing the test right…
0.5CC is basically zero so thats good.
 
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Guys its not just about how clear the water looks but those 3 criteria is KEY here and you've failed just by the look in the deep end. If you call it done too soon it'll rear its ugly head again before you know it.

Ok. I’m not trying to cut corners, I’m just looking for clarification/advice. If “keep going” is the only advice, I will, but it seems like I’m not getting there.

The water has been clear for 6 days now. I have put 18 gallons of fresh (April 2024) 10% liquid chlorine in the pool since I started. I can’t get it to photograph as clear as it looks to save my life, because the wind is always blowing here…

IMG_4448.jpeg

I haven’t gotten any visible result from vacuuming/brushing for probably 5 days now, but I’m still doing both daily. What you see in the deep end isn’t coming off (I’m brushing so hard I have bristles floating up but it’s not affecting the staining).

Last night’s OCLT was 1.5ppm, though I believe the difference from Wed/Thurs’s test could be from testing error the previous test. I’ve refined my process some.

Last night was not quite as windy, so no sand at the bottom this morning, but still quite a few bugs. I brushed and vacuumed a second time before I started the OCLT last night, and woke up at 4am to do the second test, so sunlight shouldn’t have been a factor. CC is still 0.5ppm (IF I am even reading that result correctly).

The only other factor that may be influencing my OCLT is that my waterfall has been running constantly since I started my SLAM. I’m just guessing at this point, but I’ll turn it off before the test tonight.

Is there anything else I should be doing?

I’m getting tired of waking up at dawn…

Thank you!
 
Did you remove the main drain covers and scrub in there?
Do you have a ladder? (take a pic). If so remove it and scrub in there.
Do you have a light with a niche? Scrub behind the light in the niche.
Did you remove the weir doors and inspect the foam? Might be there...
 
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Did you remove the main drain covers and scrub in there?
Do you have a ladder? (take a pic). If so remove it and scrub in there.
Do you have a light with a niche? Scrub behind the light in the niche.
Did you remove the weir doors and inspect the foam? Might be there...

Negative on the main drain covers. Man, I’m gonna struggle with that…but that’s probably where it’s hiding. Is there any alternative to removing those, like another super dose of chlorine and divert all the pump flow to the drains, or something? :confused: I’m a little overweight (i.e. I float real easy) and I’m not spectacular at holding my breath a long time, so I have a hard enough time just getting down there, let alone performing a task once I’m down there.

No ladder, lights removed and scrubbed out, and weir doors don’t seem to have foam (solid plastic).
 
Negative on the main drain covers. Man, I’m gonna struggle with that…but that’s probably where it’s hiding. Is there any alternative to removing those, like another super dose of chlorine and divert all the pump flow to the drains, or something? :confused: I’m a little overweight (i.e. I float real easy) and I’m not spectacular at holding my breath a long time, so I have a hard enough time just getting down there, let alone performing a task once I’m down there.

No ladder, lights removed and scrubbed out, and weir doors don’t seem to have foam (solid plastic).
Nope, no other solution. You can use a dumbell to help you stay on the bottom. DO NOT TIE ANY WEIGHT TO YOUR PERSON. May take a few dives to get 'er done.
 
Nope, no other solution. You can use a dumbell to help you stay on the bottom. DO NOT TIE ANY WEIGHT TO YOUR PERSON. May take a few dives to get 'er done.

Thank you, @PoolStored, the dumbbell trick came in clutch, and I can actually hold my breath a lot longer than I thought (got my second cover unscrewed and removed in a single dive ;)). I decided to wait a couple days for the water temp to get back into the high 60’s, as temps dropped quite a bit in the last week.

I’m afraid my report back is a bit of a mixed bag, though…

And the good news isn’t fantastic. First, there really wasn’t any algae down there. Far less than was inside my light niches. I still scrubbed the drains out really good with the scrubby part of a sponge, but that leaves me a bit lost as to what’s consuming my chlorine overnight.

Maybe I need to clean the filter again, despite it being only about 1 psi over my baseline!?

The bad news is that I broke all four drain cover screws on the two drains in my attached hot tub. Somebody used mild steel hardware the last time they were in there, and the screws had basically turned into barnacles. I guess I’d rather that happen in the spa, than the deep end of the pool, but their water level is tied together, so to drain the spa, I believe I will also have to drain the same amount of pool water.

Unless those little drain cover receptacle rings can be changed out in the water!? Either way, I think this is an issue for…later.
 
Unless those little drain cover receptacle rings can be changed out in the water!? Either way, I think this is an issue for…later.
Create a new post for this issue. Include pictures of the covers and the drains/receptacle rings. Creating a new thread for that issue will get the right eyes on it. Sorry for that.
 
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