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I try to keep TA 60-70. Latest TA - 80. Goal pH 7.8. I use MA 31.45%. Fill water has pH around 8.2 and TA around 120 using drop method. Thanks

I have 2 spill over fountains and 4 spitters. I’m trying to prevent pH rise. What is the minimum amount of time should I run these daily to prevent algae to form in these features? Currently run for a total of 2 hours a day. FC levels are always 6-8 and CYA 50-70, thanks for my SWG and friends...

Didn’t measure TA on that pH > 8. I did dip it before checking pH with drop test and it appeared TA > 100. I need to buy more reagents today. So I added acid about 35 minutes ago, retested pH and TA with drop test and currently at pH -7.6 and TA -90. I will watch it over the next few days but...

Decided to add boric acid to help with water feel and “sparkle” of water. Before adding Duda boric acid, pH -7.6, TA - 70. After added, borate levels was 50 on dipstick. pH the next day was 7.8. Usually check pH once a week or twice. Usually I can keep pH climb from 7.6 - 8.0 by adding acid...

Live in South Louisiana. Pool fill water has pH - 8.0, TA - 120 and CH - 20. Feel as though having to add lots of muriatic acid given my SWG as well as evaporation with our fill water living in the south. Also, have to add calcium chloride a few times a year to keep levels around 350. Any...

I followed the status when changing from pool to spa mode. It gave me a status of “max psi”. I haven’t had this issue until recently. I don’t know if this is helpful in helping me determine my issue

You are right again. Intellitouch. All these terms can get confusing.

You are correct. It was 3450 and not 3500. Don’t know where I got that from.

This attached device. I have the spa set at 3500 rpm but pool is at 35 gpm. I thought I had changed to rpm and not flow. Do you think this could be the cause?

Pentair i5 intellicenter. When I look at the status with my remote, it gets up to around 2700 rpm but stops. If I manually hit the button back to pool and then back to spa, it usually corrects itself and increases to 3500 rpm

For a few weeks now, I have had my pool programmed to my satisfaction with our spa and waterfall features. However, I noticed this week something that wasn’t initially happening. My spa is scheduled to turn on every Thursday for 30 minutes. The automated valves did their jobs, however, the pump...

This is our first full fall and winter after pool startup last winter. We don’t plan on officially closing our pool as we live in South Louisiana. I’m sure my kids will swim for a little while longer and we do plan on using the hot tub until it is just too cold outside. Question is, should my FC...

wanted to give update. Received the actuator valve. Installed and programmed yesterday. Watched a few videos to adjust cam, which was easy. Works perfectly. Now I’m able to run my water features for a few hours instead of total pump run time. This should help manage my pH changes. I really...

Is this common for a pool that’s isn’t even one year old yet? I’ve maintained slightly negative CSI since startup. My pH has been slightly high given my water features but plan on tackling that soon with an actuator and programmable feature to only run for a few hours a day. We have had a very...

Here is the best picture I can grab.

Just started seeing a white line around tile edge. Used a 50/50 h20/muriatic acid mix without much effect. White line did not bubble at all. Chemistry from this morning below. 84*F water FC - 9 CC - 0 CYA - 60 pH - 7.6 Alk - 80 CH - 320 Salt - 3400 I’m using SWG but supplementing with a few...

Perfect. Thank you both

So if I add a new circuit named “water features”, my SWG will not work since it is not in pool mode?

Thanks, Jim. I’m assuming I can program all this from the main I5 panel, outside?

Currently have a manual valve to turn on/off flow to my water features ( two fountains and 5 spitters). I want to add a Pentair actuator valve and automate this process. I’ve looked at installation of these valves as well as how to connect to my Intellitouch I5 Easy Touch control center. This...

Plaster is about 8 months old. TA usually around 70. pH tends to creep to around 8.0 or slightly higher. Not using a lot of acid, just a few times a week to keep pH around 7.6. I’ll see if I can adjust flow to fountains and spitters. Most likely will hold borates to next season.

Conversion from trichlor to SWG has been a dream. Only issue I’ve dealt with, which isn’t a huge issue, is pH creep. I do have 6 spitters and two large fountains so I know those are contributing along with the SWG. I’ve bought some boric acid. Any tips or suggestions before it comes in? I did...

Pentair IC40. FC has been around 6-7 with CYA of 80. I have 15,000 gallon pool.

Yes, used a k1766. I have been using liquid bleach for a few weeks so I don’t know if that contributed some to the salt load. I’ll repeat the testing to make sure it was accurate before adding any salt. Thanks!

About to change from in line chlorinator to SWG. Excited to make this change rather than dealing with 3” tabs. Pool is 6 months old. Getting it installed on Thursday. Any advice on adding salt now in preparation or should I wait until install? Current salt level is 1000 ppm and SWG calls for...

Passed the OCLT. Great appreciation!

Thanks for the help

Additional info, added 1 gallon 10% chlorine last night.