Recent content by generessler

I'm sorry you're going through this. I for one am interested to hear how/why the toasting happened. RS-485 is deliberately designed to be pretty bullet proof.

Fwiw, if you have a VSP and automation that reports watts used by the pump, you may have a built-in indicator. My experience has been that a filter ready for cleaning corresponds to a decrease in pump watts of a few percent at moderate speed, e.g. at 2500 rpm, 5 to 10%. NB: Kind of...

I have no idea about the TCX, but for AquaLink RS, the app has Menu | System Setup | Clear Memory. This resets absolutely everything.

You got good advice here. I'll add that keeping the bleeder clean enough to pass some air is important. It provides a path for air trapped at the top of the filter (e.g. after you've cracked the pump to clean the basket) to bleed out with the return water. If it's blocked, that pocket of air...

44 GPM is small. It's very possible you had the small pump to avoid exceeding this number. If you up-size, you'll need to be careful. Or get a filter (like most any cartridge filter) with higher capacity. Example: my old single speed 1.5 hp Whisperflo produced over 100 gpm for my 20k pool.

My old Whisperflo followed the same pattern. Locked up. Humming, not running. The problem was corrosion that ate away the motor mounting lugs and also caused the inserts in the seal plate to become loose. The motor tilted slightly, so the impeller bound in the housing. I got it running again...

Fwiw, I have had better luck with this stuff than Teflon/PTFE tape for plastic threads. One stick does many joints. The tape isn't intended for plastic.

No personal experience here, but TFP wisdom is "yes." All acid degrades the exotic coating on the plates. Vinegar is weaker than muriatic acid. The trick is to maintain your water so there's nothing to clean. Or at worst be able to poke minor scale off with a Popsicle stick or similar. Unless...

For plastic on plastic threads I've had very good luck with Plasto-Stik sealant. Not the coolest name :cool: , but super easy to use and no leaks so far even on joints that did leak with teflon tape.

@HermanTX is politely giving the standard TFP advice to run away from Leslie's (and all pool store) water tests. They're often very incorrect and used as the basis to sell expensive potions that aren't needed or even do harm. Get the test kit including salt plus the stirrer. The peace of mind...

Progress! Congrats! I don't think the temp sensor can be calibrated, but please second-guess me. All the sensors self-calibrate at startup, so be sure to cycle power to the entire unit before anything else. On mine this is the "upstream" breaker, not any of those in the Aqualink box itself...

A big, long zip tie is just another soft-ish skinny thing that can be used to poke at flakes. Same as Popsicle stick. The plates are quite close together. A zip tie is a bit thinner. It works well for me when poking out seeds, which were a plague until I figured out why the filter was passing them.

Hi neighbor! Your pool guy probably made it too tight. You could see if he's willing to come fix his mistake gratis. If not, first be 100% sure you're turning CCW while looking at the end of the cell. Doing the limbo on an equipment pad, it's not hard to get turned around. If the pipe is...

Right! The Jandy equipment came with the house. For this one and about 10 other annoyances I'm sure I'd go with Pentair if I were starting from scratch.

Okay just ran out to take pictures. Here's what mine looks like before and after swinging the front panel down. I'm just guessing that they skipped printing the message on the front panel in your version.