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I'm sorry you're going through this. I for one am interested to hear how/why the toasting happened. RS-485 is deliberately designed to be pretty bullet proof.

Fwiw, if you have a VSP and automation that reports watts used by the pump, you may have a built-in indicator. My experience has been that a filter ready for cleaning corresponds to a decrease in pump watts of a few percent at moderate speed, e.g. at 2500 rpm, 5 to 10%. NB: Kind of...

I have no idea about the TCX, but for AquaLink RS, the app has Menu | System Setup | Clear Memory. This resets absolutely everything.

You got good advice here. I'll add that keeping the bleeder clean enough to pass some air is important. It provides a path for air trapped at the top of the filter (e.g. after you've cracked the pump to clean the basket) to bleed out with the return water. If it's blocked, that pocket of air...

44 GPM is small. It's very possible you had the small pump to avoid exceeding this number. If you up-size, you'll need to be careful. Or get a filter (like most any cartridge filter) with higher capacity. Example: my old single speed 1.5 hp Whisperflo produced over 100 gpm for my 20k pool.

My old Whisperflo followed the same pattern. Locked up. Humming, not running. The problem was corrosion that ate away the motor mounting lugs and also caused the inserts in the seal plate to become loose. The motor tilted slightly, so the impeller bound in the housing. I got it running again...

Fwiw, I have had better luck with this stuff than Teflon/PTFE tape for plastic threads. One stick does many joints. The tape isn't intended for plastic.

No personal experience here, but TFP wisdom is "yes." All acid degrades the exotic coating on the plates. Vinegar is weaker than muriatic acid. The trick is to maintain your water so there's nothing to clean. Or at worst be able to poke minor scale off with a Popsicle stick or similar. Unless...

For plastic on plastic threads I've had very good luck with Plasto-Stik sealant. Not the coolest name :cool: , but super easy to use and no leaks so far even on joints that did leak with teflon tape.

@HermanTX is politely giving the standard TFP advice to run away from Leslie's (and all pool store) water tests. They're often very incorrect and used as the basis to sell expensive potions that aren't needed or even do harm. Get the test kit including salt plus the stirrer. The peace of mind...

Progress! Congrats! I don't think the temp sensor can be calibrated, but please second-guess me. All the sensors self-calibrate at startup, so be sure to cycle power to the entire unit before anything else. On mine this is the "upstream" breaker, not any of those in the Aqualink box itself...

A big, long zip tie is just another soft-ish skinny thing that can be used to poke at flakes. Same as Popsicle stick. The plates are quite close together. A zip tie is a bit thinner. It works well for me when poking out seeds, which were a plague until I figured out why the filter was passing them.

Hi neighbor! Your pool guy probably made it too tight. You could see if he's willing to come fix his mistake gratis. If not, first be 100% sure you're turning CCW while looking at the end of the cell. Doing the limbo on an equipment pad, it's not hard to get turned around. If the pipe is...

Right! The Jandy equipment came with the house. For this one and about 10 other annoyances I'm sure I'd go with Pentair if I were starting from scratch.

Okay just ran out to take pictures. Here's what mine looks like before and after swinging the front panel down. I'm just guessing that they skipped printing the message on the front panel in your version.

Yeah. Mine looks similar. I remove the screw all the way at the upper right to let the RS Aqualink button panel swing forward and down. This exposes the LCD and controls for the Aquapure.

Great. Are you sure there's not an Aquapure LCD behind the RS Aqualink board? This is how mine is arranged. I need to remove the screw you can see on your unit all the way at the top right and let the board hinge down to see the LCD and manual buttons. (Your other screw is missing.) Annoying...

Afaik, there's almost no difference between Boost and 100% (as @HermanTX said). Boost mainly adds a software timeout. So the reported symptom doesn't make sense. Boost does also override the minimum temp safety. So it could possibly override other out of bounds sensor conditions. But if you are...

That's pretty weird. Can you provide the source of this info? You describe classic bad capacitor behavior. If the rest of the motor is okay, hard to see why replacing the cap is wrong. It will cost ~$10. As others said, if you remove the "bump" cover and take a picture we can help you find the...

/dev/ttyUSB0 is the I/O pseudofile for the USB adapter that (apparently) AqualinkD is trying to use. This error generally means the pseudofile is used for (i.e. locked by) something else. E.g. some versions of Ubuntu dedicate this channel to Braille readers. If you are running Ubuntu, you can...

Theoretically, yes. Would I rely on that? No. Disconnecting at the junction box is a 10-minute job a most. Again, I'm just a pool owner. I hope one of the experts will chime in.

Sigh... You should talk to a Pentair expert, but it looks like the updated version of this light is 602188, and I'm seeing prices over $1000. You might find a pool supply place with old stock. A couple of notes: 1) Your light is actually 120 vac, not 12. There's no external transformer for...

Many supposedly "hand tight" connections like this on my pool led me to buy a very big channel lock pliers. At max it handles about 4 1/2 inches. It needs to be used VERY gently - you can easily crush stuff, so choke up on the handles. But it's loosened everything I've run into so far including...

Great. Funny you mention worms. I end up netting a few dozen every time we have a hard rain. Robot gets them eventually, if I don't. Kind of gross. The odd thing is I've never seen one traversing the coping even though - out of curiosity - I've gone out in the rain a few times to look. Magic...

No personal experience here (we never close), but I've read it's risky for the robot to work in a pool with lots of debris on the bottom. It's not designed to deal with that. But if you're confident the cover prevented a very dirty bottom, good to go... If in doubt, you can scrape the bottom...

Yup! Mine looks just like this. You can just about see the 44 mark around the side. (Can't find a better picture, and I'm not near my kit.)

Yeah. Iiuc, cold water running through the heat exchanger causes water in the exhaust gases (when you burn just about anything, water is created) to condense inside the heater, and it's very acidic. So it eats up the exchanger (although I've seen info recently that some Hayward heaters manage...