If I was building my own pool, I’d want a lot of lighting. And I’d want each light to home run back to the pad. I might run them off of one circuit, or I might split them in half. Or I might want to run each of them individually. Or some other scheme, that I might not even know I want until after I’ve had the pool up and running for a while. Like maybe being able to turn on a few lights when I'm just sitting by the pool, as opposed to lighting it up nice a bright for a nighttime swim party. Having each light home run back to the pad allows all these options. If you connect one or more lights together elsewhere, then the options dwindle.

In the grand scheme of things, conduit is cheap. Making changes later after all your landscaping and hardscaping is installed is not.

ajw22 said:

Blue Helix looks to be one of many pool cleaners from China sold through the Internet by a company with no US contacts.

If you get it then let’s us know how it works out.

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After reading the stellar review on the Aqua Products Evo that jimrahbe left I decided to order 614iq from Marina Pool, Spa, and Patio. If I knew I could get replacement parts for the Blue Helix I probably would have gave it a shot but I have seen nothing on being able to repair it if needed.

Jimrahbe said:

End,

Why would you think that will happen??? The salt cell makes chlorine not salt...

I have three saltwater pools and my salt level never goes up...

Thanks,

Jim R.

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That's cause you actually get rain there.
Here not so much. Our tap water has a bit of salt and adding muriatic acid adds some as well - along with people swimming.

Chelse,

The cell uses the thermistor in the flow switch to 'adjust' the salt level based upon the water temp.. It makes sense that if the cell thinks the water temp is 127 degrees, that the salt reading would not be correct.

If there were my cell, the first thing I would do is to replace the flow switch assembly.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Those pictured are Pentair.

Jimrahbe said:

W,

If you keep your FC and CYA at the proper relationship per this chart...

FC/CYA Levels

You should never have to add any pool store shock on a weekly, or routine basis...

Thanks,

Jim R.

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Thank you for this. I would love to stay ahead of it and avoid needing to shock. I think my issue is I have been trying to be frugal and by doing so did not add enough liquid chlorine... and by doing so got my CYA and FC balance out of whack.

JoyfulNoise said:

Arizona can mean a lot of different things in terms of climate - a pool in Flagstaff is going to operated differently from a pool in Yuma. Where exactly are you in Arizona??

Also, what is your pool size in gallons? I don't see that in your signature.

Are you testing by using your own test kit or are you going by pool store results? (Answer - it should be on your own as pool store testing is simply not good enough ...)

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I'm in the phoenix area - so it's hot and just getting hotter. Testing is right now with strips and i'm also testing the accublue home kit.

How do you chlorinate your pool?

What is your CYA level?

Newdude said:

Either the math is wrong, or the testing.

Water exchanges are a proportionate reduction for CYA. A half drain would lower you to 100, if the testing was to be trusted.

So I have to ask, how are you testing ?




(Please don't shoot the messenger )

A gallon every 2 days is right now. Each gallon of 10% chlorine gets you 2.6 ppm. When it gets nuclear by you, you'll see 4 or even 5ppm lost, daily. So plan on 2 gallons a day.

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My old testing may have been wrong. I have tried test strips, also have a test kit, and most recently have been trying the at home accublue test (from Leslies which I know is frowned upon). I am trying the accublue in hopes that it will be accurate and still allow me to decide how to approach it on my own.
I definitely won't shoot the messenger - but I'd love it if the messenger could give me tips on a more financially reasonable plan And yea at 2 gallons a day that's $140 in liquid chlorine a week just to make it through the summer. I'd rather let CYA rise and drain water as needed... But as I mentioned I'd love tips to keep a balance somewhere between the two methods.

ajw22 said:

While you are doing PVC work remove the tablet chlorinator and install a SWG.

A VS pump would be a good upgrade.

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So an SWG is a chlorinator...interesting to learn about.
Are there any economic options?
Would this actually save money or improve performance, or is it mostly for lower manual maintenance and better water feel?

Unfortunatley it is one of 3 structual post. I'll clean it up first and see what state it is under the surface. Thanks, and good point about the salinity.

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:

Welcome! That is a big pool to take care of in the Arizona sun, but not impossible. Most important is getting your CYA level where it needs to be to protect FC from the sun. Still, one gallon of chlorine per day is likely the minimum that your pool will require during swim season. Can you post a full set of test results?

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Thank you for your reply. Yes it will be a lot to take care of in the hottest point of summer. If it gets to 1 gallon of chlorine a day that'd be $50+ a week to maintain. Most recent test: Free Chlorine 3, pH 7.5, Alkalinitiy 100, Calcium Hardness 230, CYA 45.

AQUA~HOLICS said:

I like keeping everything together.View attachment 568661

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What transformers do you recommend?

Newdude said:

1). Some time may pass before raising the CYA to SWG levels. It won't be needed anytime soon with low UV loss right now for us up north.

2) Having to SLAM at 28 FC suuuuuuuuucks.

Way more than waking up early for one day. Best to be sure sure sure before you raise it.

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When do you usually increase CYA and add salt?

mknauss said:

Welcome to the forum!

I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

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Thank you. I have done that. My concern is more about how to use less chemicals that contain CYA while keeping my costs reasonable. I know how to maintain it - but this is my first year trying to avoid just throwing Trichlor tabs and Shock at it. I use the app and have subscribed - so when I do my tests I enter the info in there and follow the recs - but again in this heat and this size pool the amount of liquid chlorine seems unsustainable.

I like keeping everything together.

Av8te said:

You can shock without moving your cya up with either calhypo or liquid chlorine. If your calcium gets above about 450 I would just use liquid chlorine. A salt cell may be an option too depending on what automation you currently have and whether you want to spend the money to get that installed. As a side note, you shouldn’t have to shock very often if you keep your chlorine levels in check.

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I will have to try calhypo, but would its cost be similar to trying to shock with liquid chlorine? I just know that with liquid chlorine being $24/week it sure adds up quick, and I would imagine as it gets hotter this could double. I am very glad to hear I shouldn't have to shock much if I keep my chlorine levels in check - which I have not done because I have been too cheap to add liquid chlorine as often as I should have.

Your installers may patch it. Or if you get the material you can try patching it.

JoCoSteve said:

I thought regular household bleach was acceptable?

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It used to be but they all have polymers added now for scents / splashless or 'chloromax technology' or such that cause foaming.

Plus, they are 6% chlorine to the 10% or 12.5% chlorine in the pool brands, for a similar price.

Unless they have somewhere selling in bulk like Hasa, most find Pool Essentials chlorinating liquid (10%) at Walmart to be their best buy.

HermanTX said:

I think you have this reversed. The main filter pump flows to the filter then from the filter it goes to the return to pool but also TEEs to the inlet of the booster pump. I am not sure what that second TEE is for other than a drain line. See the photo marked up
View attachment 568004


since that pump strainer is already cracked, it would be a good time to buy a variable Speed pump. That will pay back to you with lower energy costs.
PVC is fairly easy to work with, if you can disassemble the booster pump. Just dry fit everything before applying the PVC cement. There are good YT videos to give you some guidance.
I would start at the pump and redo all plumbing to filter and then from filter to return line.
If that 2nd TEE is a drain line then suggest it be put between pump and filter.
If you go with a VS pump, it will come with unions to install before and after the pump.
Let us know what you plan to do.

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Thanks for your response.

I have mixed up the flow of this system so often I don't know why I never bothered to draw arrows like this photo. Thanks a lot.

That being said, if it is true that FILTERED water is going to the cleaner...why is the cleaner's filter getting so dirty? Is this a sign I need to replace the cartridge filters (they are old...)?

Also, this is not the first time I have been recommended a variable speed pump. However, I mentioned I already have a brand new oem pump strainer, just waiting for that patched one to keel over. Regardless...I actually appreciate the energy inefficiency of my pumps because I have an energy plan that credits me to use more energy in a certain window (when I primarily run the pumps).

The busted lines I am replacing are due to the concrete pad shifting dramatically (the pumps are partly floating). I am getting a foundation company to come and level everything soon. Was planning to enroll in YouTube university to learn PVC ironically. The second tee leads to a handy valve followed by a garden hose fitting...I guess the crank knob on the hose fitting is not suitable for that amount of pressure...or why would they do that?

an1vrsy said:

So what I thought I was linking to must have been an Amazon switcheroo to a best match.

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It happens all the time. Or the copy/paste missed the last couple digits and it's a dead link. Sometimes I have to insert it several times, so you will get NO finger pointing from me.

If you do encase the pipes in concrete, a high slump mix with a small aggregate should be used.
As far as drainage, your idea should work but try to get as much line for the drainage as you can.

I thought regular household bleach was acceptable? Is there a need to use some pool specific chlorine?

AUSpool said:

That link is for bicarb.

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Sorry folks, I was way too quick to post. Lesson learned, check link before posting it and before running out the door to go to a picnic. It was a beautiful day here in Las Vegas.

Allen saw that Puritech is out of stock at Amazon. So what I thought I was linking to must have been an Amazon switcheroo to a best match.

Too far North for me to have a contact for you, sorry.

We have had a Dolphin Active Solo for 2+ years, provided as a part of our pool build package. It worked great for almost 2 years, and then started having issues just turning off for no reason. The dealer took it back and replaced the motor twice last year, but never resolved the issue, and now it’s out of warranty. Maytronics has washed their hands of it, and I with them. These are disposable products, so buy accordingly.

Ltmdrichardson said:

Does anyone have a suggestion for a non-stabilized granular or puck chlorine?

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Chlorine is a gas and when it comes to pools, it's stabilized with water (bleach), CYA (powdered shock / pucks) or Calcium (Cal-Hypo).

Being up north with a short season you can rotate forms with some success if you monitor the level being raised (CYA / CH).