Help! I screwed up and wired motor wrong

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ASR Issue - Austin, TX

Hi, I discovered my issue with ASR three years ago. Apparently I was one of the first discovered In Austin. Ironically enough, my new pool is filling up as I type this. A three-year nightmare coming to an end…and a good one thankfully.

Feel free to DM me for contact info. Happy to share my story and things we did that helped expedite the process With insurance/lawyers etc.
Howdy! Can you message me?

IC-40 SWG Reads Low Salt at 3200 ppm?

well heck, went out to check before bedtime and that darn LOW SALT red light indicator is back ON my IC-40...BUT!!!! The IC-40 is indeed producing FC as is readily apparent by the milky clouds coming from the returns. Earlier today, with the RED low Salt indicator on, it was NOT producing FC>....It's been a long day, I'll look at it tomorrow. :(

How much to drain for high CYA

Hey M&M and Welcome !!!!

but how do we figure out how much to drain?
An even proportion or %. Half lowers CYA by half, 90% by 90%, etc.

Unfortunately looking near 300, you'll want to drain or exchange 80% or more of the water to end up at 60 or less. Always go more than you think because if you have to drain multiple times, you'll be draining new water with the old.

Is ground water a concern ? The pool may become a boat and float up out the ground if the water table is above the level you need to drain. You can always dig a test hole nearby to be sure. Check this link for the no drain exchange if that sounds better.



so once we get passed the skimmers, then what? Or is there a way to drain from the bottom of the pool?
You want a submersible pump that you drop in. With the bulk of 25k gallons needing to come out, either buy a powerful Submersible pump and a 1.5 inch hose for faster draining or rent a large trash pump from Home Depot or such that comes with the hoses.
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Flocculant and filter balls

Hello,
Recently had someone take hth green to blue pool kit, dump all packages into a 5gal bucket filled it with water. Then dumped this mixture into the skimmer basket. I didn't realize until after about 24 hours with filter running.
Pool is still solid green. 28,000 gal inground. With rock waterfall and attached hot tub.
(Sidenote: I am a live-in care giver for an older gentleman who was recently partially paralyzed. This is his pool, I'm learning about how to do upkeep. I used the hth kit property before. He asked his brother to come do it to take some of work load off me. )
So at this point, not sure what effect the misuse of product by mixing all together at same time then adding to pool will have on filter balls or what to do now.
ANY advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Getting him in the pool will help improve his chances of walking again.

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Jandy RS8

Refer to Post #15
Also are you still working with Jandy Automation - iAquaLink?
Go to Menu - System Settings - Assign JVAs and show a screenshot of that.
Also, Go to Menu - System Settings - Label AUX and show a screenshot of that.
Post 15 isn't right. If you look at my link: Login to view embedded media you can see how this is plumbed. I use the waterfall option to operate this separate pump. Now I need the option to turn the valve to Waterfall output or the deck fountains.

Here are the two screens you requested:

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Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

My goal is to use the current waterfall option to turn on the pump and run the waterfall and perhaps make another option to fountains that would turn on the same pump but switch the valve to the fountain option. That would be the ideal situation. The compromise would be the waterfall option operates the pump for these water features and then another button selects the output?

Vidrepur niebla glass tiles - any good? your advice / reivew please.

Exchanging water after pool opening

FC 5
pH 7.3 ( I have been keeping it at about 7)
Ta. 60
Cya 80
Salt. 3100
That’s all I usually test

I had my fill water tested through our county extension office. I had to pay for it! And, it showed no iron. I’ve had the pool for 8 years and haven’t had any problems with it. I’m blaming it on the Clorox salt. I feel like the exchange didn’t get it all. My salt read 800 ppm after the exchange. But, after balancing my FC has been between 5-6. There has been a very light yellow stain. It wasn’t really even that noticeable, unless you were looking for it. But, this happened in a week. And, the main difference was pool temperature. Could it be some sort of Algae? The water still looks clear though.
My problem with iron started last year.

What is the oxidize function on Ecco smarte?

So I bought a new house that had an Ecco smarte system already installed. The copper ionization system is kind of snake oil and after the previous owner never putting any real chlorine in so it took draining by half to get the copper levels in check, but what exactly does the titanium plate oxidizing function ACTUALLY do? Should I just pull it all out, or is the oxy setting worth using?

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Exchanging water after pool opening

I suspect you either have iron in your fill water (not terribly unusual in red clay country) or you had a very high iron level in the water before & the exchange didn’t quite get it all.
Poolmath logs link is broken right now so i cant see - whats your latest test results?
Fc
Cc
Ph
Ta
Ch
Cya
Salt
FC 5
pH 7.3 ( I have been keeping it at about 7)
Ta. 60
Cya 80
Salt. 3100
That’s all I usually test

I had my fill water tested through our county extension office. I had to pay for it! And, it showed no iron. I’ve had the pool for 8 years and haven’t had any problems with it. I’m blaming it on the Clorox salt. I feel like the exchange didn’t get it all. My salt read 800 ppm after the exchange. But, after balancing my FC has been between 5-6. There has been a very light yellow stain. It wasn’t really even that noticeable, unless you were looking for it. But, this happened in a week. And, the main difference was pool temperature. Could it be some sort of Algae? The water still looks clear though.

Jandy RS8

Post pictures of your equipment pad and plumbing and indicate which valves are for your fountain and waterfall.
I tried to upload but the forums keep saying uploaded image is too big. Here is the link to the pic in imgur:

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There is one valve. Left side is the waterfall output, right side goes to a valve that then splits out to the two deck fountains. I have it just going to both equally.

Ladder recommendations

I believe @kellyfair had one similar in her intex for quite some time without issue.
She now has it in her permanent above ground pool.
So long as you secure it so it can’t rub against the liner it will be fine.
My neighbors had a similar one in theirs for years as well.
You can always use a pad underneath it if you’re concerned.
You’ll want to weigh it down independently if it tries to float. With some sort of weights hanging underneath.
What I mean is - don’t pour sand in the ladder- no matter what the instructions say.
you won’t be able to get it out & it will get gross. Then you will have super heavy, un removable gross steps that you can’t clean.
I used sand filled bleach jugs as weights for years but they did allow some water in even with me sealing the tops with tape & they cracked over time. Algae city.
I changed course last season & decided to use some sealed plastic weights that are filled with concrete (the kind you put on a barbell)- a bit more robust than the jugs.
I have them hanging from a poly rope underneath my steps. They don’t touch the floor.
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How much to drain for high CYA

Hello, we moved into our house 6 weeks ago & we are new to pools. We have a SWG but the previous owner constantly had pucks in the skimmers which I know now from this forum is what likely caused our high CYA (and in turn our non existent chlorine) We have an in ground, plaster pool approx 20,000 - 25,000 gallons.

Our water has been looking great, but 2 days ago it started getting cloudy & now has a slight tinge of green.

Our numbers tested today with Taylor test kit were:

FC 0 literally no color at all to the water sample
CC 0
Ph - 7.6
Alk - 90
CYA - best I can guess with a 3 part dilution is around 285 😳. When I diluted 1/2 the black dot disappeared still before the 100 mark, so diluted to 3/4 and got to around 95. Maybe I didn't do right?

Realizing even if it’s plus or minus a little for human error it’s obvious, our CYA is extremely high & we must drain/refill but how do we figure out how much to drain?

Also, how does one “drain” the pool? When we backwash (Hayward sand filter) I assume it’s coming from the skimmers, so once we get passed the skimmers, then what? Or is there a way to drain from the bottom of the pool?

Can this be done a little at a time or should it be done all at once? Draining & refilling seems like such a daunting task, but if it has to be done we certainly want to do it right & have it be effective.

Please be kind, we are new & determined to maintain ourselves but seeing as we are only weeks from swim time, we are getting a little nervous we won’t get this right!

Thanks for any insight!

Problem with heater

OK. Just checking in with update. I got a hold of a manometer. I tested the inlet side and it read 8. I tested the outlet side with the heater turned on. Nothing but clicking, I can see piolet flame, and the outlet side is reading 0 on manometer. My deduction from this test is that the gas pressure is fine, no clogs in the line. It seems like the valve is just not opening.

(I am seeing volts of electricity showing up on my voltmeter at all electrical connections when heater is turned on. )

Now that I’ve run this test. Let me know if anyone sees any other variables, or if it is just time to replace the valve. I went ahead and grabbed a valve that I on standby is the universal replacement on Honeywell crossover guide.

Thanks again for everyone’s help.

Brandon

Vidrepur niebla glass tiles - any good? your advice / reivew please.

I have no experience with those tiles but this site advertises them for pools...



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