White mold in above ground pool

PorknBeans82

Member
Jun 6, 2023
7
Kent, Ohio
Pool Size
3521
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Since I've opened my pool a month ago and evicting two frogs out, I've been dealing with white mold. I have a 3500 gallon 14'×32" bestway pool. I have two catridge filters running 24/7. I have tried shocking the pool, sweeping the bottom, brushing the sides, and cleaning the filters twice a day with no luck. The pool company I test my water at has no idea how to fix my issue other than maintaining chemicals, and shocking the pool. My problem is after shocking at night the next day the sludge is at the bottom, but when I sweep it the catridge only collects so much of the sludge, and sends some back into the pool. How do I get rid of this mold? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Welcome to TFP! :wave: While those small pools have horribly small cart filters, most often the problem is with chemistry. To accurately assist you we would need to see a full set of water test results from a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit. That's what most forum members rely on here at TFP. Pool store testing is often flawed and they follow old (generic) level recommendations that are not reliable. If you have one of those test kits we would be happy to help. Also be sure to bookmark and review our Pool Care Basics page for lots of great info.

Your pool is also very close to what we classify as a seasonal pool (3K), so you do have the option of considering the link below to manage your pool that way if it helps.

 
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Here are all the chemicals I've used this month to regulate the pool. Also, I can't afford the more expensive test kits I only have the hth 6 way test kit.
 

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Gotcha. Everything there is fine except for the phosfree. Really no need to use that. The others are okay as long as you know what they do and keep a close eye on them. Since you can't get one of the test kits for a larger pool, I would recommend treating your pool as a seasonal pool using the link above. That way, all you need is a simple 3 or 5-way test kit form Walmart. If the water gets yucky, you simply dump it and start over. Very easy and in many cases cheaper to change the water than trying to control algae or other issues with a lengthy chemical process.

That seasonal link sounds like your ticket for the summer.
 
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If you have ANY questions about the chemicals on the table you showed us, please ask. Caring for a pool your size should be quite easy as long as you understand what to use and why. If you have any doubts, just post back and let us know. We're happy to help.
 
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Gotcha. Everything there is fine except for the phosfree. Really no need to use that. The others are okay as long as you know what they do and keep a close eye on them. Since you can't get one of the test kits for a larger pool, I would recommend treating your pool as a seasonal pool using the link above. That way, all you need is a simple 3 or 5-way test kit form Walmart. If the water gets yucky, you simply dump it and start over. Very easy and in many cases cheaper to change the water than trying to control algae or other issues with a lengthy chemical process.

That seasonal link sounds like your ticket for the summer.
I used the phosfree because my phosphates were 2500ppm. It went down to 123 after I used it, and helped get rid of some of the mold. My problem with draining the pool completely is the liner. I don't want it to get damaged in the process. That's why I've been trying to kill the mold.
 
Here are all the chemicals I've used this month to regulate the pool. Also, I can't afford the more expensive test kits I only have the hth 6 way test kit.
With all those chemicals that you won't need by following the TFP way (calcium hardness, pH up, no-Phos, etc), you can't NOT afford a proper test kit. For the cost of several of those that you won't use again you could have bought a kit.
 
With all those chemicals that you won't need by following the TFP way (calcium hardness, pH up, no-Phos, etc), you can't NOT afford a proper test kit. For the cost of several of those that you won't use again you could have bought a kit.
You don't know my financial situation, so please don't tell me I could of bought this expensive kit. A lot of these chemicals I have are from last year, given to me, or when I get my monthly pay(after paying bills) I can only afford so much at a time.
 

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Fair enough. All I can tell you is that many people come to this forum after spending considerably more on pool store advice and the costly chemicals that go along with them than they would have on a decent test kit. An ounce of prevention and all that...
 
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Hey PnB and Welcome !!!
My problem with draining the pool completely is the liner. I don't want it to get damaged in the process. That's why I've been trying to kill the mold.
Temporary pools (Intex/bestway/etc) are designed to be taken down and stored for the winter. You don't have the liner shifting concerns of a traditional hard sided above ground pool. (y)

I can only afford so much at a time.
You can get by with what you have if you add a Taylor k1515 fas/dpd FC kit to it. This is the one. The OTO chlorine test in your kit isn't accurate and doesnt test over 5. :)
 
Hey PnB and Welcome !!!

Temporary pools (Intex/bestway/etc) are designed to be taken down and stored for the winter. You don't have the liner shifting concerns of a traditional hard sided above ground pool. (y)


You can get by with what you have if you add a Taylor k1515 fas/dpd FC kit to it. This is the one. The OTO chlorine test in your kit isn't accurate and doesnt test over 5. :)
Thank you. I left it out last winter, and just drained it right below the filter lines, covering it of course. Would that mess with me draining it at all this year, and filling it back up?
 
I left it out last winter,
Many do, usually on the 2nd or 3rd year once the newness wears off, but they're designed to be taken down and even have a drain plug.
Would that mess with me draining it at all this year, and filling it back up?
Nope. Drain, fill and repeat as necessary. I wouldn't battle this to save 3500 gallons with cheap water.

Get the FC add on kit and we can really stretch out the draining intervals.
 
Fair enough. All I can tell you is that many people come to this forum after spending considerably more on pool store advice and the costly chemicals that go along with them than they would have on a decent test kit. An ounce of prevention and all that...
Fair enough. All I can tell you is that many people come to this forum after spending considerably more on pool store advice and the costly chemicals that go along with them than they would have on a decent test kit. An ounce of prevention and all that...
Thanks. The only thing I was going to the pool store for was testing my water. At the time I only had the liquid test from Home Depot. They don't even know how to deal with the white mold in the pool. Their main concern was the chemical levels, but they never asked me to buy anything. I would rather get advice from people with actual experience, like yourself and other people on this forum. I'm just limited on resources, and this is my first year opening a pool with so many issues.
 
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Many do, usually on the 2nd or 3rd year once the newness wears off, but they're designed to be taken down and even have a drain plug.

Nope. Drain, fill and repeat as necessary. I wouldn't battle this to save 3500 gallons with cheap water.

Get the FC add on kit and we can really stretch out the draining intervals.
Thank you. I appreciate it.
 
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Draining that kind of pool is not an issue for the liner.
Drain, scrub with diluted bleach, rinse, refill, & follow the guide. At the very least get the k1515 kit (fas/dpd) for fc & cc
& also refill for the cya reagent.
To keep the pool sanitary & prevent bacteria and algae in the future (white mold is bacteria) you must follow the proper
FC/CYA Levels
 
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