I’ve been having this issue for years,this year being the worst. I have chalk coming off the walls like crazy making my pool cloudy & the water feels rough. What should my levels be? I live in NJ. And the pools is heated. Could the gel coating be coming off? Very frustrated I’ve scrubbed the sides and it’s like clouds of chalk coming off. I’m at loss any help would be great. Need to get this right for once & for all. Thx
White chalk cloudy water in my fiberglass pool
- Thread starter Jeanned
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 51,990
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hello and welcome! 
To help, we'd have to see a full set of water test results. If you don't have a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit (link below), that should be step one. Pool store testing is often flawed, and test strips are a waste of time. So post your water results as soon as you can. It really helps paint a good picture of the pool condition.
Do you know how old that pool is? And last, what chemicals do you normally put in the water?
To help, we'd have to see a full set of water test results. If you don't have a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit (link below), that should be step one. Pool store testing is often flawed, and test strips are a waste of time. So post your water results as soon as you can. It really helps paint a good picture of the pool condition.Do you know how old that pool is? And last, what chemicals do you normally put in the water?
My pool is 8 years old. I have a chlorinator which I use the hockey puck tabs. Ph alkaline whatever the pool store tells me. My chlorine is at 2.8 tci 5 alk 80 ph 7.8 th 450 and cya 30
- Jun 22, 2014
- 51,990
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Uh boy. Well, let me try to help you and hopefully try to break some old habits, after all, that's why we all found this forum. 
First, you absolutely must test your own water. We may not be able to fix our own cars anymore with today's computer tech engines and software, but we CAN test our own pool water. It's safe and easy to do with the "proper" test kit. THAT's key. We recommend the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C (link below). Everything you do for your pool is based on accurate results from one of those kits. I've been using the TF-100 since 2014 when I came to TFP and will never leave it. I hope you will do the same soon. Testing is everything.
I would also like you to read our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and then read & save those Vital Links below in my signature. They are the foundation of what we teach here at TFP. Tabs/pucks are fine for short-term use, but if used consistently they increase your CYA (stabilizer) to such a high level that you cannot keep enough chlorine in the water. That's why we use regular household bleach or pool chlorinating liquid. Pool stores won't tell you that. They'll see you a new bucket for ~ $100, then when your CYA exceeds 100 tell you to drain some water. Wrong answer! With the right kit we show you how to avoid that pitfall and many others.
Your CH (we don't say TH) is getting high as well. I suspect probably from pool store (Cal-Hypo) chlorinating products/bags sold by the pool store as well unless your local water is extremely hard. Your pH is at the top of the range we like to see as well. At this point, I really wish we had your own test results to view. But I will sum it up for now by saying you really need one of those test kits. Post a full set of your numbers, and we'll tell you exactly what to do next. It's not hard, and we can save you a ton of money by not going to the pool store for over-priced chemicals that typically don't work anwyays.
First, you absolutely must test your own water. We may not be able to fix our own cars anymore with today's computer tech engines and software, but we CAN test our own pool water. It's safe and easy to do with the "proper" test kit. THAT's key. We recommend the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C (link below). Everything you do for your pool is based on accurate results from one of those kits. I've been using the TF-100 since 2014 when I came to TFP and will never leave it. I hope you will do the same soon. Testing is everything.I would also like you to read our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and then read & save those Vital Links below in my signature. They are the foundation of what we teach here at TFP. Tabs/pucks are fine for short-term use, but if used consistently they increase your CYA (stabilizer) to such a high level that you cannot keep enough chlorine in the water. That's why we use regular household bleach or pool chlorinating liquid. Pool stores won't tell you that. They'll see you a new bucket for ~ $100, then when your CYA exceeds 100 tell you to drain some water. Wrong answer! With the right kit we show you how to avoid that pitfall and many others.
Your CH (we don't say TH) is getting high as well. I suspect probably from pool store (Cal-Hypo) chlorinating products/bags sold by the pool store as well unless your local water is extremely hard. Your pH is at the top of the range we like to see as well. At this point, I really wish we had your own test results to view. But I will sum it up for now by saying you really need one of those test kits. Post a full set of your numbers, and we'll tell you exactly what to do next. It's not hard, and we can save you a ton of money by not going to the pool store for over-priced chemicals that typically don't work anwyays.
I used to be able to wipe a chalky substance off of my fiberglass finish. Now, I keep my CH at 300 and I don’t have it anymore.
Like stated above, get your own test kit. Your pool will look so much better. I spend about 40 minutes PER WEEK cleaning and caring for my pool (vacuum, brush, clean the filter, test the water) and have only spent $240 this calendar year on chems and other items, including a new filter cartridge.
Like stated above, get your own test kit. Your pool will look so much better. I spend about 40 minutes PER WEEK cleaning and caring for my pool (vacuum, brush, clean the filter, test the water) and have only spent $240 this calendar year on chems and other items, including a new filter cartridge.
Thank you I will do that
- - - Updated - - -
I have a chlorinator so I have it set at 2 which I put those chlorine hockey pucks. I also have well water
- - - Updated - - -
I have a chlorinator so I have it set at 2 which I put those chlorine hockey pucks. I also have well water
I read about pool chemistry. Honestly it’s confusing. I also looked at the tf 100. I don’t mind spending $70 if it will be easy for me to understand and also help with getting rid of the chalk.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 51,990
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Testing the water yourself is really not that hard at all, just new. As with anything new to our eyes, it takes a little repetition to get comfortable, but the TF-100 instructions are very good, there are videos online, and we are here to help answer questions as well. When you get the test kit, do a full set of results posted as seen below and we'll let you know what to do:
FC
CC
CYA
PH
TA
CH
And remember ....... each chlorine tablet you use in the auto-chlorinator increases your CYA (stabilizer) level. That's okay to a point, but when it starts getting over 50 you need to consider using only regular bleach or chlorinating liquid. All the links you need to know and get used to reading are below in my signature.
Look, the TF-100 is easy. All you do is do one test at a time, following the instructions. We even have videos to show you how to use it.
The bottom line is your pool water is laden with too much stabilizer and too much calcium.
The high stabilizer makes your FC (free chlorine, the cootie fighting stuff) less effective against algae.
The high calcium can coat your walls with scale and makes your water "hard".
You added all this via the continual use of pool store pucks and granule products.
We here at TFP learned that staying away from these multiple ingredient products and just using the single ingredient liquid chlorine, or bleach, gives us FC but *none* of the calcium or CYA we don't want or need extra of.
We don't trust pool store tests because they're done-
A) sloppily, in a hurry
B) untrained worker who doesn't understand the chemistry when making suggestions
C) with the sole goal of making a sale of something or another.
We like to use grocery store chemicals (same ones as a pool store, but cheaper) when possible, and with our test kits we *know* what we need, and what we don't! The test kit is often better and more accurate than the ones used by those in-and-out pool services who come to the house!
You *can* do this! It ain't brain surgery, I promise. It is just a matter of learning what and *why* you use something in your pool.
Maddie
The bottom line is your pool water is laden with too much stabilizer and too much calcium.
The high stabilizer makes your FC (free chlorine, the cootie fighting stuff) less effective against algae.
The high calcium can coat your walls with scale and makes your water "hard".
You added all this via the continual use of pool store pucks and granule products.
We here at TFP learned that staying away from these multiple ingredient products and just using the single ingredient liquid chlorine, or bleach, gives us FC but *none* of the calcium or CYA we don't want or need extra of.
We don't trust pool store tests because they're done-
A) sloppily, in a hurry
B) untrained worker who doesn't understand the chemistry when making suggestions
C) with the sole goal of making a sale of something or another.
We like to use grocery store chemicals (same ones as a pool store, but cheaper) when possible, and with our test kits we *know* what we need, and what we don't! The test kit is often better and more accurate than the ones used by those in-and-out pool services who come to the house!
You *can* do this! It ain't brain surgery, I promise.
It is just a matter of learning what and *why* you use something in your pool. Maddie