Well, that's unfortunate ...

JoyfulNoise

TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
May 23, 2015
25,114
Tucson, AZ
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Today was a case of the sadz for me ... my IC60 appears to have moisture escaping from the seem under the top cap that holds the membrane pad. The electronics and membrane pad are potted into the top of the PVC body and thermally sealed. It’s not a great design. I was out there a week ago and noticed a salt crust around the edge of the plastic sun shield. I wiped it clean but it came back. On top of that, one of the union nuts is cracked. I have spare unions, but that means PVC work to fix the cracked nuts. Some pics -

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The bummer is the unit is only 4 years old and I paid just around $990 for it back in the day. A new IC60 so far is $1800. Gotta love COVID-flation ...

So far nothing is dripping or spraying water. The nut is holding for now. I plan to get a replacement split-nut for the coupler to avoid PVC pipe reworking. As for the cell, the option is either do nothing until it springs a solid leak OR clean up that entire edge and seal it with RTV or Epoxy. Sealing it might drive whatever water is weeping there somewhere else and considering the electronics under there that will probably result in a short or some other electrical catastrophe.

The sad part is the cell is generating perfectly fine, lots of life left on those plates. So when it does finally let go, it'll be a premature death.

More info to follow ...
 

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Sometimes water will get into the interstitial layer and short out the electronics
 
I would let the natural draining from the top happen and not seal it up. Run it for as long as it lasts.

Have some liquid chlorine on hand for when it dies while you wait for the replacement cell unless you want to get one and inventory it.
 
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What if you rotated it upside down ----- would that help keep the water from the electronics, or make it worse?
 
Perhaps if enough of the electronics are potted with the black epoxy, the water that is weeping may never cause a problem electrically. It will just be a long, slow death until something gives way and water is spraying out.

My front up approach is to simply replace the union nut and keep an eye on things. I plan to take the cell inside this winter as I have a winterizing tube that fits in that space. I’ll just manually chlorinate starting in December some time (cold water cut off rarely kicks in before Thanksgiving). My pool loses very little FC over the winter. Then we’ll see how spring startup goes.

I’ll park my browser on a few websites and keep an eye on ICXX prices. There may be a late or early season deal. If I like the price then I’ll inventory a cell and keep it on the shelf until I absolutely need it.

One lesson here for anyone reading this is - equipment pads are critical parts of the overall pool design and I absolutely hate mine! The pool builder just slapped all the equipment on the west facing side of my casita with no enclosure wall at all. So my equipment is basically cooked and baked by the hot desert sun 24/7/365. My equipment is only technically 12 years old but it all looks like it’s 30 years old. If I had the disposable income to deal with it, I would honestly dig up everything and reroute all the plumbing, electrical and gas into a new space that is north facing and out of the direct sunlight. At the time I was very busy and I left a lot these details up to the PB to decide … clearly he did the absolutely minimum on his part and left me with the results.
 
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Got my new split couplers from Mikey’s -

IMG_3688.jpeg

I’ll head out there tomorrow and replace the old couplers with these.

Pretty nice design and looks like they’ll do the trick. The website has couplers for lots of different applications - SWGs, pumps, etc.. As long as they hold and create enough closing force, it’s a nice way to not have to mess with the plumbing.

Warning - they’re NOT cheap so if you’re budget conscious, buying PVC pipe glue and doing the plumbing work is probably cheaper. Then again, they would not be any more expensive than buying new OEM IntelliChlor fittings from Pentair so … 💁‍♂️
 
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PVC pipe glue and doing the plumbing work is probably cheaper.
8 oz. Purple Primer and Rain-R-Shine Medium Blue PVC Cement Combo Pack. $13.23

 
8 oz. Purple Primer and Rain-R-Shine Medium Blue PVC Cement Combo Pack. $13.23


I actually have the OEM black Pantair fittings for the IC from the last time I bought one. So I could have done the repair and used those fittings. I have some 2” pipe on hand but I would have needed a 2” coupler. All in, I could do the job for about $20 and maybe 30mins of labor with a few hours of waiting for glue to dry … OR … spend $40 on new couplers and get the job done in about 15sec … laziness for the WIN 🙌🙌

(In reality I only needed one of the Mikey’s couplers since the other one has shown no signs of cracking or distortion. I bought two and plan to replace both just to avoid the reality that the other coupler will eventually fail as well. Might as well only pay for shipping once …)
 
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Got my new split couplers from Mikey’s -

View attachment 609721

I’ll head out there tomorrow and replace the old couplers with these.

Pretty nice design and looks like they’ll do the trick. The website has couplers for lots of different applications - SWGs, pumps, etc.. As long as they hold and create enough closing force, it’s a nice way to not have to mess with the plumbing.

Warning - they’re NOT cheap so if you’re budget conscious, buying PVC pipe glue and doing the plumbing work is probably cheaper. Then again, they would not be any more expensive than buying new OEM IntelliChlor fittings from Pentair so … 💁‍♂️

Would you share the link?

I didn’t know such a thing existed. This past spring one of the union nuts cracked on my Tcell. I ended up having a pool company replace the unions.
 
Check Marina on the IC if you buy one. $1300 right now.
Margaret gave me the TFP support discount on the one I bought a couple years ago.

I’ll park my browser on a few websites and keep an eye on ICXX prices. There may be a late or early season deal. If I like the price then I’ll inventory a cell and keep it on the shelf until I absolutely need it.
The price Marty gave is a solid deal. I’m paying $1,500 through my distributor for IC60’s at the moment.