VSP Setting Recommendations

[diesel1218]

Hi I was curious as to what is recommended for VSP settings. I still need to accurately measure my size but it is safe to say I am around 15-16K gallons based on cad measurements.

I am starting to run my pump 24/7 just due to the living in FL, a lot of small cats get into my pool when it is still even though I have a screen in pool cage. Also heavy pollen season right now.

I was curious as to the settings I should be using and when. Currently I am using the following:

• 8am-10am - 3036 RPM
• 10am-2pm - 2794
• 2pm - 8pm - 2242
• 8pm-8am - 1725

 

[Jimrahbe]

1218,

You should run the pump for a reason.. Tell me why you are running at those speeds??? What are you trying to accomplish at each speed??

The size of your pool has nothing to do with how long you run the pump.

At what speed does your salt cell turn on??

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Newdude]

• 8am-10am - 3036 RPM
• 10am-2pm - 2794
• 2pm - 8pm - 2242
• 8pm-8am - 1725

Goodness. Do you have a reason for the above ? You run the pump for a reason. Heating, skimming, SWG, etc.

You need to figure out all your functional speeds. Start low and add 100 RPMs until the SWG kicks on, the heater, the skimmer doors are bobbing along, etc.

Add 100 or 200 RPMs to each speed to account for lower flow when the filter gets dirty. Those are your needed speeds. Run the skimmer or SWG speed that satisfies both. Ramp up to heat, run the cleaner, bubble the spa, etc etc, when you need.

 

[diesel1218]

1218,

You should run the pump for a reason.. Tell me why you are running at those speeds??? What are you trying to accomplish at each speed??

The size of your pool has nothing to do with how long you run the pump.

At what speed does your salt cell turn on??

Thanks,

Jim R.

Well I dont have a reason other than I though I needed speed to push the water. One of the old pool guys that no longer services my pool said to keep it in 3000 range longer so I could move the chemicals and move the water through and least once cycle.

I figured the longer it was on to slowly reduce the speed, and figured at night just needed to have it low enough to push the water and keep any pollen from sinking to the bottom.

 

[Newdude]

One of the old pool guys that no longer services my pool said to keep it in 3000 range longer so I could move the chemicals and move the water through and least once cycle.

Mixing takes 15 mins a day. Twice a day is even better.

You only need to move the water based upon producing FC with the SWG, filtering the crud that blew in, heating, using the spa, etc. All vary widely through the season.

The spa for example might be used twice a day in the fall but zero times in August.

Filtering needs are heavy in the spring and fall and low mid season.

SWG needs little runtime in the spring and fall and lots in the mid season.

Again. Specific reasons and needs. When the industry types pick a high enough # with a long enough time, they were right. But they don't pay the electric bill for all those KW hours that weren't needed.

just needed to have it low enough to push the water and keep any pollen from sinking to the bottom.

It settles no matter what, but running certainly helps less settle.

 

[diesel1218]

Mixing takes 15 mins a day. Twice a day is even better.

You only need to move the water based upon producing FC with the SWG, filtering the crud that blew in, heating, using the spa, etc. All vary widely through the season.

The spa for example might be used twice a day in the fall but zero times in August.

Filtering needs are heavy in the spring and fall and low mid season.

SWG needs little runtime in the spring and fall and lots in the mid season.

Again. Specific reasons and needs. When the industry types pick a high enough # with a long enough time, they were right. But they don't pay the electric bill for all those KW hours that weren't needed.

It settles no matter what, but running certainly helps less settle.

Okay so your suggestion is fine the bare minimum it can run and then just use that setting?

 

[diesel1218]

Okay so your suggestion is fine the bare minimum it can run and then just use that setting?

it seems also with all the returns that I have closed off, main drain, reduced spa return, and the bubblers off that my pump basket doest get all the air out especially on lower speeds. As soon as I open up a return like the bubblers or the spa the basket fills easily.

 

[Jimrahbe]

1218,

It is your pool and you can run it however you want. We are just here to give you some perspective..

I am a big fan of running 24/7, as a like to make a little chlorine all the time and I like skimming all the time. I also like the look of my pool when there is a little motion to the water.

I run at 1200 RPM, as I do not have a heater. I have faster speeds when I run my waterfall wall (Not Often) and when the wife and I want that lazy river feel when using our floats. But 95% of the time my pump runs at 1200 RPM.. Running 24/7 costs me less than $20 bucks a month and I have an older pump. The new ones are much more energy efficient. As a side note.. I have three pools that all run 24/7.. I have been doing this for well over 10 years. Without a shred of proof, I personal believe that running 24/7 is better on the pump than turning it on and off each day.

I used to ramp my pump speed up a few times a day to 'help' with skimming, but found it really made very, very little difference,.

Since you have a heater, my guess is that your low speed will be in the 1500 to 1800 range. Whatever turns on your SWCG plus 100 or so RPM, just to make sure.

Low water in the pump basket at low RPMs is normal. As long as it does not keep getting lower and lower and lower.. Having the pump run at a speed the fills the basket once a day for a few minutes will make sure it never gets too low.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Newdude]

+1. ^^^^ We're here to teach you what you actually need, and how to do it on the cheap.

Then you make an informed/educated decision as you see fit, like running 3450 RPMs because you like seeing whitecaps on the waves.

Mine is so cheap where I need around 1k RPMs (100W) that I splurge all the way to 1500 RPMs (220W) because we like the look of the water moving a little more. But it's cool too if you like whitecaps.

 

[diesel1218]

1218,

It is your pool and you can run it however you want. We are just here to give you some perspective..

I am a big fan of running 24/7, as a like to make a little chlorine all the time and I like skimming all the time. I also like the look of my pool when there is a little motion to the water.

I run at 1200 RPM, as I do not have a heater. I have faster speeds when I run my waterfall wall (Not Often) and when the wife and I want that lazy river feel when using our floats. But 95% of the time my pump runs at 1200 RPM.. Running 24/7 costs me less than $20 bucks a month and I have an older pump. The new ones are much more energy efficient. As a side note.. I have three pools that all run 24/7.. I have been doing this for well over 10 years. Without a shred of proof, I personal believe that running 24/7 is better on the pump than turning it on and off each day.

I used to ramp my pump speed up a few times a day to 'help' with skimming, but found it really made very, very little difference,.

Since you have a heater, my guess is that your low speed will be in the 1500 to 1800 range. Whatever turns on your SWCG plus 100 or so RPM, just to make sure.

Low water in the pump basket at low RPMs is normal. As long as it does not keep getting lower and lower and lower.. Having the pump run at a speed the fills the basket once a day for a few minutes will make sure it never gets too low.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Okay make sense, just like most I was in the myth you need to turn over your pool x amount of times.

I have modified my schedule to run 1 hour at 2800, 3 hours at 1725, then 20 hours at 1345. I want to see how the water looks and the pump basket before I lower much more. I do have a heater but I dont have it on 24/7, I normally only turn that on when the kids want to go in the pool in the spring or fall. Actually thinking a color cover might make more sense as the summers get hot and do not need it much.


Heater is an another discussion on energy cost and if it is better to always have it on vs not.

Also wanted to talk you for the recommendation on the EVO614iq, got mine, and love it so far. Definitely beats manual vacuum.

 

[Newdude]

I want to see how the water looks and the pump basket before I lower much more.

Filtering is covered at any speed and usually works better at low/slow.

Even the slightest breeze will likely overpower your skimmers, but if running 24/7 they get right back to work the moment the breeze dies.

 

[Jimrahbe]

I do have a heater but I dont have it on 24/7

1218,

Just to be clear, for this to work, your cell needs to be on when you are running at 1345 RPM.. Does it???

Normally the heater is controlled by the automation.. So it may be 'on' but should not actually run unless the automation tells it to run. I see no point in turning the heater on and off manually. When in the standby mode, the heater does not really use very much electricity.. My pull it out of my rear guess, would be a buck a month, if that.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[diesel1218]

1218,

Just to be clear, for this to work, your cell needs to be on when you are running at 1345 RPM.. Does it???

Normally the heater is controlled by the automation.. So it may be 'on' but should not actually run unless the automation tells it to run. I see no point in turning the heater on and off manually. When in the standby mode, the heater does not really use very much electricity.. My pull it out of my rear guess, would be a buck a month, if that.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Correct I meant it isn't running but believe it is always on. Running is a different story and probably need to figure out if it is better to leave it set at a temp or only run it when the water temp is too cold for the kids.

As for my SWG it is currently waiting on a new circuit as that is causing all sorts of faults. I have been manually adding chlorine right now. Won't be able to tell but my understand is it is really the flow switch before the SWG, not the SWG itself. That flow switch is currently running fine right now.

 

[1poolman1]

it seems also with all the returns that I have closed off, main drain, reduced spa return, and the bubblers off that my pump basket doest get all the air out especially on lower speeds. As soon as I open up a return like the bubblers or the spa the basket fills easily.

It is normal for a VSP to look like it has air in the pot at the lower speeds. My pump is the original version of yours, though 2.7THP. It has always had that appearance at the lower speed I run it. I skim at 2200 for 1 hour a day, then its 1200 for the next 13.5 hours. My SWG will run at that speed.

 

[diesel1218]

It is normal for a VSP to look like it has air in the pot at the lower speeds. My pump is the original version of yours, though 2.7THP. It has always had that appearance at the lower speed I run it. I skim at 2200 for 1 hour a day, then its 1200 for the next 13.5 hours. My SWG will run at that speed.

Awesome thanks for the heads up, I have watched it so far today it is above the basket doesn't seem to be going lower and it is been on lower speeds all day 1300.