Using Air to pressure testing pool lines

[Tallfellow]

I'd like to pressure test both the input and output lines on my in ground pool. My thought is to build a manifold that I can hook up a air pump to that will let me pump the pressure up to some specific level, then watch it for some period of time. This leads me to my questions. I found this really nice gage at HD, that's 1/2 inch MPT on one side an a tire stem connector on the other. So you can easily use a tire pump connector to pressurize the system, but the gage maxes out 15psi. Other gages go higher up to 100PSI but I won't be using 70 to 80% of that gage.

1) What air pressure should I use in the lines to assure myself that they are not leaking? I've heard everything from 10 to 30PSI, and I'd prefer to go put the lowest pressure in the line that I need and not anymore. What PSI should I target? if 10 to 15 PSI enough?

2) How long should I keep the lines pressurized? This is probably related to the question above, right. A higher pressure probably means a shorter time before you detect a leak, at 10PSI, is an hour long enough? More... less? What's the general consensus.


Thanks again

 

[PoolStored]

I'd like to pressure test both the input and output lines on my in ground pool. My thought is to build a manifold that I can hook up a air pump to that will let me pump the pressure up to some specific level, then watch it for some period of time. This leads me to my questions. I found this really nice gage at HD, that's 1/2 inch MPT on one side an a tire stem connector on the other. So you can easily use a tire pump connector to pressurize the system, but the gage maxes out 15psi. Other gages go higher up to 100PSI but I won't be using 70 to 80% of that gage.

1) What air pressure should I use in the lines to assure myself that they are not leaking? I've heard everything from 10 to 30PSI, and I'd prefer to go put the lowest pressure in the line that I need and not anymore. What PSI should I target? if 10 to 15 PSI enough?

2) How long should I keep the lines pressurized? This is probably related to the question above, right. A higher pressure probably means a shorter time before you detect a leak, at 10PSI, is an hour long enough? More... less? What's the general consensus.


Thanks again

I built my own version of this (see below) for about $80.

5-10psi is just fine. Takes less than a minute to tell if you have a leak. I used a 30psi liquid filled gauge.

Amazon.com: Pool Leak/ Pool Plumbing Pressure Tester/ Pool Leak Detector/Swimming Pool Leak Detector : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com: Pool Leak/ Pool Plumbing Pressure Tester/ Pool Leak Detector/Swimming Pool Leak Detector : Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.com

 

[W.J.Christy]

I come from an industry where pneumatic pressure testing is avoided due to the potential for spectacular failures. Hydrostatic testing is always recommended. That being said, if your going to be holding at 15psi or less use the 15 psi gauge to get better resolution for small changes in pressure. For refineries, and chemical plants, pressure is typically held at 1.3 times design pressure for least an hour, often more. When my pool was pressure tested, they kept it pressurized for 24 hours before the inspector would look at it and sign off.

I would recommend an over night test using at least 15 psi. Pressurize the lines, mark your gauge and let it sit. Understand that there will be natural variations in pressure as the air temperature increases and decreases throughout the day. Depending on the amount of pipe the is exposed and the temperature extremes +/- 1 psi could be expected. .

 

[Tallfellow]

Ok, I just put together my air pressure testing harness. It's currently pressurized to 30psi. I'm going to check it in another hour or two to make sure it's still holding pressure. The first step is to make sure that the fixture itself holds pressure. Then once that's been shown I can use it to test the pool.

 

[PoolStored]

Ok, I just put together my air pressure testing harness. It's currently pressurized to 30psi. I'm going to check it in another hour or two to make sure it's still holding pressure. The first step is to make sure that the fixture itself holds pressure. Then once that's been shown I can use it to test the pool.

I would use lower pressure, just for safety. If you use rubber plugs, DO NOT STAND IN LINE OF SITE. Even at 10psi, they can shoot out and do serious damage.

 

[Tallfellow]

Ok, so that was an adventure. The white tpfe tape, really leaked like a sieve. I obviously didn't put anywhere near enough tape on the joints. and so I ended up with a pressure tester that couldn't hold pressure. Hopefully the yellow tpfe tape will do a better job

 

[Tallfellow]

So the main line I want to test is the drain at the deep end. And my plan here is to put enough pressure in the line to push the water level in the pipe down a foot or two, but not enough that it will bubble out the far end. Tat should put enough pressure on the whole line to allow me to see if the pressure drops, with out having to put any kind of plug in the deep end that I can't easily get to. The current lines are capped with screw in plugs, so I'm good there on the other two returns. I'm not so worried about the skimmer intake lines, but I guess I should test them as well.