To Coat or Not To Coat Large O Ring that Goes Between Upper and Lower Filter Housings

[texaspoolman57]

I recently installed a new O ring on my Hayward DE6020 filter. In doing so I thoroughly cleaned the O ring mating surfaces on the upper and lower housing to ensure that no debris was present prior to re-assembling.

Although I wiped with a dry cloth those surfaces there was still some Magic Lube present as it is impossible to remove all of it.

I decided not to lubricate the o ring but rather just install it as it came out of the plastic packaging.

Part of the reason I did not lubricate it was to prevent all of the typical debris (small stones etc.) from sticking to it and the clamshell mating surfaces on the upper and lower housings.

So my question is: what if any are the cons of not coating this O ring?

With the O ring not lubed in and of itself there are no leaks.

 

[texaspoolman57]

I believe that one of the reasons that the Hayward DE filters fail to seal up at the interface between the upper and lower halves is that every time the band clamp is installed and tightened up it is possible that it actually removes some the the mating surfaces on the top and bottom tank housing where the metal band clamp slowly carves away the plastic tank material as it is being tightened.

If those surfaces are lubricated (just even lightly) then the friction generated as the band clamp slides over those surfaces as it is cinched up is reduced thereby reducing or eliminating and removal of tank material.

The more tank material that interfaces with the tapered surfaces of the band clamp that is removed due to friction and scraping, the less the band clamp is able to compress the two tank halves together thus producing less compression on the O ring and the greater potential for leaks at the O ring interface.

This is my theory as to why tanks leak at this interface (not to mention old worn out O rings, dirt debris on the sealing surfaces etc., etc.)

So my question and thought is: Is it a good idea to lube the inside surfaces of the band clamp to reduce friction and wear on the interfacing tank to band clamp surfaces to prevent this from happening?

I would think yes and if so what lubricant (brand and name of lube) could be used to do so that would not damage the fiberglass/plastic tank?

 

[Newdude]

what if any are the cons of not coating this O ring?

Drips/leaks and the gasket material drying out faster.

I have watched many a drip be stopped with magic lube. It's great stuff.

Protip: use nitrile gloves when lubing the hula hoop gasket. It's miserable to wash off something that's water resistant.

Part of the reason I did not lubricate it was to prevent all of the typical debris (small stones etc.) from sticking to it and the clamshell mating surfaces on the upper and lower housings

Once the band clamp it tightened, nothing is getting in there. I do have to make a conscious effort to lay my top half on its side when I take it apart though. If you place it down right side up, it'll pick up tons of crud.

 

[PoolStored]

magic lube

@Newdude is right on. But "Magic Lube" is PTFE based. For pool applications, use a silicone lubricant (NOTE: NOT SILICONE SEALANT). "Magic Lube II" is a silicone lubricant and great for pool usage.

 

[PoolStored]

From the manual:

 

[texaspoolman57]

Drips/leaks and the gasket material drying out faster.

I have watched many a drip be stopped with magic lube. It's great stuff.

Protip: use nitrile gloves when lubing the hula hoop gasket. It's miserable to wash off something that's water resistant.

Once the band clamp it tightened, nothing is getting in there. I do have to make a conscious effort to lay my top half on its side when I take it apart though. If you place it down right side up, it'll pick up tons of crud.

...."once the band clamp is tightened nothing is getting inside there...."
Actually there is plenty getting inside there..... most filters are full of tiny little "rocks" that are picked up by the surface cleaner (older plaster pools probably pick up more - at least that is where I suspect most are coming from) and all of those little hard particles I will call them adhere to the O ring and upper and lower housing O ring mating surfaces. But it's any type of debris that gets into the filter as well. This makes replacement even more difficult since all of that debris has to be thoroughly cleaned off to prevent any leaks upon assembly.

 

[Newdude]

all of those little hard particles I will call them adhere to the O ring and upper and lower housing O ring mating surfaces.

Then something is wrong if the mating surfaces and gasket are exposed to the dirty filter water. Securing the band clamp smushes it so tight that nothing should get in there.

 

[texaspoolman57]

Then something is wrong if the mating surfaces and gasket are exposed to the dirty filter water. Securing the band clamp smushes it so tight that nothing should get in there.

I am not sure this is true. Every time I open my filter up there are very small particles of debris on the lip of the upper and lower halves adjacent to the O ring and on the O ring itself. I suspect that a portion of the inboard side of the O ring is indeed exposed to the water in the tank. There is nothing wrong with this and I believe that the engineers at Hayward designed it this way.

Think about it too, if the two halves come together and touch then the compression on the O ring cannot be increased any further beyond that point. Not sure the design engineers at Hayward would want the mating of the two halves to set the maximum compression on the O ring. The maximum compression on the O ring according to the various models is set on older models a coil spring having all coils touching or by on the new models 150 in-lbs of torque on the collar nut.