This is a Lot Harder than Y’all Made it Out to Be

try to relax a little, pools are supposed to be fun
your numbers are mary poppins, practically perfect in every way
unfortunately because you had instances of low chlorine in the beginning, you most likely have the start of an algae bloom
it starts with water losing the diamond sparkle, that people associate with trouble free pool clear
then moves to cloudy, which is where you are
then goes green , which is when pool store says you have algae
it should only take a few days of high chlorine to fix, the cloudiness and red eyes
as you regularly adjust your ph, it will bring your ta down, it doesnt matter if this takes 12 months or more as you are not outside recommended range
 
SLAM at 70 is going to be awfully hard, if not impossible, due to high FC demand.
It's only going to take higher FC level. This is common for salt pools but it does require more LC. Don't try to SLAM with your swg. This is why I'd confirm with an OCLT. But I agree with others green tint and cloudy is almost certainly algae. If that's the case the longer you wait the longer the SLAM will be.

I hope this helps.

Chris
FC/CYA Levels
 
I slammed in early June with a CYA of 80 because I failed OCLT. Catching it early is the key so you won’t need to use the overall volume of LC as you would with a cloudy or green pool.
 
I slammed in early June with a CYA of 80 because I failed OCLT. Catching it early is the key so you won’t need to use the overall volume of LC as you would with a cloudy or green pool.
OP has 4x your water volume, so 4x the needed liquid chlorine. For someone already frazzled, would be tough.
 
I slammed at 70 this spring, it is not impossible. Sure, it is a bit more 10%, but a gallon or two more of 10% is probably cheaper and less panic Inducing than a water replacement.

@Jannzas You are off to a great start! For now, the most important goal with the new pool is to make sure it is sanitized and clean. Hazy water, especially in a new pool is a sign of contaminants, typically algae.

The best remedy for this is to do the SLAM method. You will want to get a recent FC, CYA and pH test, and if pH is 7.6 or below, turn your SWG to 0% and start the slam process with liquid chlorine based on your CYA level. Follow all the steps and criteria. I know it seems counter intuitive to rely on another chlorinating method when you have a salt pool, but salt cells provide maintenance chlorination and are unsuitable for superchlorinating to eliminate algae and organics.

I promise that this is a worthwhile step, especially for a new pool, and once completed will rarely if ever have to be done again assuming you test regularly and maintain TFP cya/FC levels.

Your CH, TA, salt, CYa all look good for now, so only focus on doing the 5 ml FC test during slam and the 10 ml FC test for the overnight loss test when you reach that point. Don't worry about chasing ideal levels.

I am excited to see a new pool owner get started on the right foot with TFP. It will save you so much time and effort when everything settles down. Please don't get intimidated or discouraged and come to us with any questions!
 
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I slammed at 70 this spring, it is not impossible. Sure, it is a bit more 10%, but a gallon or two more of 10% is probably cheaper and less panic Inducing than a water replacement.
I’d just point out again that while you were able to SLAM, you have 3.5x less chlorine needs due to pool volume. I view this through my lens of having a lot of water to deal with, which means a heck of a lot more chlorine potentially needed for SLAM. Now, if you are a seasoned TFP’er, then CYA 70 is still doable. It just might be a poor recommendation for someone new to the process and already on edge.