This is a Lot Harder than Y’all Made it Out to Be

[Jannzas]

I have water in my pool. I have a TF Pro test kit. I have no clue what to do. I have 0 chlorine. 0 CYA. High PH. And I added 18 bags of salt but I’m not sure my testing is accurate because I have no idea how much salt I truly have now. I THINK that the water turned from salmon to “brick red” after 20 drops. I used the speed stir for this test. I don’t really know for certain though. I’m having a tough time adding CYA. I have crystals but they take FOREVER to dissolve using the sock method. My SWG gets plugged up tomorrow I hope. I’m so frustrated I could cry and scream. I’ve done lots of reading and research but I feel so dumb and useless. Do I go ahead and add more liquid chlorine? Do I get the CYA up first, if so, how is the best way to do this? Aside from the yellow and red block test for PH and CL the rest of these are hard for me to feel like I’m accurate.

 

[reggiehammond]

Can you post a full set of test results?

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt

For the drop based tests, don't overthink it. Once the color changes, that's the number. You can add one more drop to confirm the color doesn't change any further.

You should add liquid chlorine immediately. A SWCG cannot keep up with algae, so you'll likely need a quick SLAM Process.

Pool Care Basics has great articles about pool care, recommended chemicals, etc, but we can help in the forums as well.

PoolMath is also a great app for logging results and a steal at $7/year to allow us to see your current results and past trends.

 

[Newdude]

Ok. Deep breath. We got you. I promise.

I’m having a tough time adding CYA. I have crystals but they take FOREVER to dissolve using the sock method.

Try this. The sock works too, just shake that well instead being careful not to spill any.

How to add large batches of CYA

Hey Folks !!! With a large pool, I need 4lbs of CYA to only raise it 15, and I don't think I have that many socks without holes in them. So I use a Tshirt. Plus, I like that it's doubled up for redundancy. So I measure out my dose and can get 4 lbs in my kitchen scale. If I need more...

www.troublefreepool.com

And I added 18 bags of salt but I’m not sure my testing is accurate because I have no idea how much salt I truly have now. I THINK that the water turned from salmon to “brick red” after 20 drops

It needs to mix for a full day. 720 pounds should be about 3000. You want the first change that goes BOOM from milky to red/salmon or whatever shade you see it as.

Do I go ahead and add more liquid chlorine?

Yes. It may burn off in an hour or two with no CYA. Check it a couple times a day if possible until the CYA dissolves.

 

[Jannzas]

Can you post a full set of test results?

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt

For the drop based tests, don't overthink it. Once the color changes, that's the number. You can add one more drop to confirm the color doesn't change any further.

You should add liquid chlorine immediately. A SWCG cannot keep up with algae, so you'll likely need a quick SLAM Process.

Pool Care Basics has great articles about pool care, recommended chemicals, etc, but we can help in the forums as well.

PoolMath is also a great app for logging results and a steal at $7/year to allow us to see your current results and past trends.

I’ve got pool math but it doesn’t log my tests results. I’ve only tested for salt, results listed above, cya 0, chlorine 0, and ph at least 8.2.

 

[alvindo]

I had a pool 25 years ago and got pool stored and vowed to never have another. Then this past year my wife and kids convinced me to put one in. I vowed to never go the the pool store and got a Taylor salt test kit. It was daunting at first, but now is pretty easy. Here were my steps.

Pool builder and I added enough salt to get the swg generating chlorine. Then for the first week I just tested Fc and ph using the comparator block. I also used the pool math app to add enough CYA to get me to my target level over the first week with the sock method.

After week one I learned the TA test and kept using the ph and FC comparator block. In week 2 I learned the FC DPD test, and now that’s all I use for FC testing.

Week three I learned the calcium test and brought my calcium level up. Then in week four i learned the salt test and compared to my sensor on my SWG.

Week four I started the CYA test. Of them all I think this is the hardest, but I also feel confident I’m within the range I want to be. My method of learning all the tests incrementally might not be ideal but it has worked for me. I still haven’t been to the pool store so that’s all that really matters to me.

 

[dereksanders]

First and foremost, a proper test kit.

The main issue is having adequate amounts of FC. To that end, establish the requisite CYA level for your chlorination method while simultaneously adding liquid chlorine to reach the requisite level. It may take a day or two for the CYA to fully register, but plan your FC level on your intended CYA level. Once the CYA/FC ratio is stabile then address the other chemistry.

 

[PoolStored]

I’ve got pool math but it doesn’t log my tests results. I’ve only tested for salt, results listed above, cya 0, chlorine 0, and ph at least 8.2.

The pool math subscription is like $8 per YEAR to log results. Well worth it.

Take each test, one by one. Ignore the OTO, but do all the other tests here: Extended Test Kit Directions Archives

Get 30ppm of dry chlorine stabilizer in the pool. Put it in a sock, tie it off, and hang in front of a return, carrot on a stick style. After 30 minutes, start squeezing to dissolve.

Add enough liquid chlorine to the pool to raise your FC to 6ppm. Always use this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Use pool math to figure out how much muriatic acid to use to lower pH by 4. Add the acid, test 30 minutes later. Repeat until you pH is 7.8.

Us the link to the test instructions, do each test one by one and post results. FC, CC, pH, TA, CH and CYA.

 

[Jannzas]

Ok! Freak out moment is on hold. I feel like I finally did my first good set of tests here are the results.

My water is cloudy. You can juuuuuust barely see my dolphin in the deep end.



So, what do I do now? The test says my TA is off and to lower my PH. My PH IS on the lower side.

 

[dereksanders]

I don’t see a particular problem with your TA or pH that would cause any immediate concern. Cloudy water typically indicates a SLAM is necessary. pH is perfect to start a SLAM.

 

[PoolStored]

Start the SLAM process. Your FC Target is 28. Link-->SLAM Process

 

[mc2021]

BTW, In pool math those arrows and check marks are not telling you to do something. They are telling you that your ph is below the ideal range and your TA is above it. The check means it's in the ideal range.

 

[Jannzas]

Start the SLAM process. Your FC Target is 28. Link-->SLAM Process

Why would I want to SLAM if my chlorine is good, even a little on the high side?

 

[setsailsoon]

Why would I want to SLAM if my chlorine is good, even a little on the high side?

They suspect you have algae. Run an OCLT test to be sure if you want to confirm. My experience is that cloudy water has always been due to algae or fine particulates that improve dramatically with filtering at high speed for a day or two. It's easy to do an OCLT to confirm. If you fail you definitely need to SLAM and it will work quickly if done right. If you pass and chemicals are in range one or two days of filtering 24/7 high speed will work.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

 

[setsailsoon]

Jan,

Another comment I'd add is your test results are better than you think. They're often way better than pool stores. Trust your instruments. They'll work for you and you'll gain confidence over time.

Chris

 

[PoolStored]

Why would I want to SLAM if my chlorine is good, even a little on the high side?

The green algae haze in the pool is algae. Visible algae = SLAM.

 

[Newdude]

Tell ya what. We can be SLAM buddies because I'm doing one too. I'm a good friend like that.

 

[kimkats]

Hello and HUGS to you to you! I am so happy to see your first set of tests! You did great!! You have some of the best help already here to answer any questions and concerns. Ask ANY AND ALL questions you might have. We have all been right where you are so no worries. We get it!

The reason for the cloudy water and need for a SLAM is from the 0 FC before. I would go ahead and get your FC up to SLAM level for your CYA.

Now if you have kids and they want to swim today you can push the FC to just under the SLAM level for your CYA and it will be safe for them to swim so long as you can see the bottom of the pool just in case someone needs to be saved.

You got this!!

Kim

 

[Jannzas]

Here are my morning numbers.
The SWG and pump are running 24/7 right now since this is a new full. SWG is chlorinating at 70% right now. I see my calcium is a problem and I have what I need to raise it. Not sure how to add it, but I’ll gladly take advice. I’m still worried about my TA. My son swam last night and his eyes were red and burning afterwards. Bad PH?

 

[PoolStored]

You have organics in the pool causing irritation.

In your Vinyl pool, you don't need CH. Your TA is just fine.

Please, you need to follow the SLAM process.....to clear the pool and sanitize it for your family's health. Link-->SLAM Process

 

[reggiehammond]

SLAM at 70 is going to be awfully hard, if not impossible, due to high FC demand.