Test strips difference with Taylor k2006 kit

recordlevel

New member
Nov 2, 2024
3
Massachusetts
Hi, just got a new 300 gal spa and first time owner. So, followed the pool store directions for water chemistry and all measures are within norms on the test strips, except free chlorine which goes back to 0 every day. So, every day for the last 5 days I have added about 1/2 TBSp of dichlor which gets it back to around 3ppm (we do have 250 reading for phosphate). Concerned about the CYA levels, I bought a Taylor K2006 kit from Amazon. However my first time with this kit, it shows 10ppm in FC but the test strips indicate 4ppm. I can understand a little difference but this difference is huge and I don’t know which one to believe. I did the Taylor DPD test 3 times and same result. Is it possible the test kit is a fake? Are test strips really that bad? Really not sure what to do here, any advice appreciated thanks!
 
Welcome to TFP.

Yes, test strips are really that bad.

Believe the fAS/DPD FC test. That is what we recommend.
 
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The test strips are just generally bad and they also are susceptible to getting bleached out by higher fc levels.
Stick with your Taylor kit for accuracy as recommended above.

*Also note that for every 1ppm of fc that dichlor adds it also adds nearly 1ppm of cya.
Once cya reaches 30/40 ppm you should switch to liquid chlorine or following the proper FC/CYA Levels becomes increasingly difficult.
You always need to keep fc above minimum for your cya or nasties will proliferate rapidly in a spa environment. 🤢
Here’s the guides for using chlorine in your tub.
Long version
👇
Short version
👇
 
You can use
PoolMath effects of adding to calculate how much cya your dichlor doses have already added.
I do it each time I add dichlor and list my calculation as my cya test result in the log as I go until I have it high enough to actually test for it.
 
Thank you so much for the quick replies and for the help. I did a little control experiment and then contacted Taylor. I added a small amount of Dichlor to regular tap water and got the concentration to 3ppm according to the test strips. The Taylor DPD test registers about the same amount. SO, that suggests there is something interfering with the test in my spa water. Turns out Oxy shock can cause interference in the DPD test, and I had used sodium Peroxydisulfate - they believe this is likely causing a skewed result. They do have a separate test kit that is not affected by potassium monopersulfate, which I guess is a more common one.
 
There is a special interference reagent.
However, in general mps (non chlorine oxidizer) is not really necessary for a properly chlorinated tub.
Chlorine is both an oxidizer and a sanitizer.
While Mps is only an oxidizer.
Why use both & deal with the complication when adequate chlorine alone will do the job.
Mps is also a known irritant so many just avoid it.
Makes life simpler.
 
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There is a special interference reagent.
However, in general mps (non chlorine oxidizer) is not really necessary for a properly chlorinated tub.
Chlorine is both an oxidizer and a sanitizer.
While Mps is only an oxidizer.
Why use both & deal with the complication when adequate chlorine alone will do the job.
Mps is also a known irritant so many just avoid it.
Makes life simpler.
Thanks. Yes The dealer recommended adding Oxy after each use of the tub, and I was wondering if that was really necessary or just to sell more chemicals. Good to know!
 
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Thanks. Yes The dealer recommended adding Oxy after each use of the tub, and I was wondering if that was really necessary or just to sell more chemicals. Good to know!
I have never used it in 6 years of chlorine hot tub ownership & 12+ years of chlorine outdoor pool ownership. In my opinion it’s really not necessary in those instances.
Adequate Chlorine has always been enough for me.
 
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