Stressed Out!!! Trying to Prevent Issues

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L

Lilmama

0
May 12, 2018
18
Winona Ms
I purchased a 20ft (6500 gal) Summer Waves pool last summerand like a newborn child it came with no instructions on how to take care ofit. Pool came with over the wall pump that uses cartridges, and for the beginningof summer it was great water was clear, and other than cleaning debris I had notrouble. By mid-summer I was pulling my hair out and ready to give up. Waterwas cloudy, I was changing filters every other day. I do not have a fancy testing kit (I usestrips) so I ended up taking water samples to local pool shop only to spendmore money on chemicals than what the pool cost. On opening pool this year wedrained water and cleaned liner with bleach and water. We filled pool (May 9th)and waited 24 hrs before testing, the water is clear, however when I testedwater my pH and alkalinity is off the chart high and showed no chlorine level.I added 16oz of MA and again waited another 24 hrs. (pump running) On day 3 Iget in pool and vacuum debris and wait to test in the afternoon, test showedhigh pH and alkalinity no chlorine so I added a lot more MA. At thispoint I had added no shock because I had read that if pH was high it was no usein shocking, but I waited for an hour (sundown) after adding the MA and addedshock which was supposed to be fast dissolving (pump running). This morning Itested and results are still high pH and alkalinity with a low chlorinereading. Oh and I can see some shock settled on bottom of pool. My water isclear but I know it’s just a matter of time before I lose that. My finance isconvinced that we need a better pump and not that I don’t agree, but which onethat will not break the bank and work efficiently. I am a little OCD (he says alot), so I’d like a pump that could function a good vacuum instead of the one Ihave that has a little white bag collecting debris from the water hosesuction. As far as chemistry goes I havenot the first clue on what to do to prevent my pool from getting nasty, howoften to shock, add algaecide, clarifier or any other chemical. I don’t want toget into the let me try everything on the market again this year only to bedisappointed with results. Any sound advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
 
First off. Purchase a Taylor TF-100 test kit or as a secondary option. Taylor K-2006 test kit. The K-2006 doesn't have as much CYA or FAS-DPD reagent. People here WILL HOUND YOU TO DO THAT FIRST TO GET A GOOD AND ACCURATE TEST MEASUREMENTS TO ASSIST YOU. That is your first step.

You second step is to forget anything and everything the pool store told ever told you, or sold you. They're water tests are inaccurate, their products are expensive, and do more harm then good, only to buy more products. Unlearn everything the pool store taught you, follow us, and once you learn the principles of BBB, Proper Water Chemistry, and how to achieve it with simple grocer items as Bleach Borax and Baking Soda, you are going to save A TON OF MONEY!
Probably hundreds if not thousands of dollars utilizing our water chemistry and filtration methods here.

Here at TFP you are going to stick to the BBB. Bleach, Borax, and Baking Soda method, muratic acid to lower total alkalinity and PH, and stabilizer to raise CYA if necessary. CYA stands for Cyanuric Acid. It is what keeps your chlorine stable and from being consumed by the sunlight or organics in the pool, and your free chlorine being consumed rapidly or too quickly. Ideally you want your CYA at 30 but an acceptable range is 30-50.

Shock is not a product it's a process. It's a process of maintaining chlorine at shock levels between FC 15-20 ppm depending on what your CYA is when necessary to shock or SLAM your pool to prevent or clear any algae outbreaks, improve overall sanitation, and sanitize any organics like dust, pollen, leaf debris, bug, bird droppings, etc...SLAM means SHOCK LEVEL ADJUST MAINTAIN. When you clear an OCLT or Overnight Chlorine Loss Test of not losing more than 1-2 ppm of FC or free chlorine in a 24 hr period, your water is clear, and your CC or combined chlorine is 0.5 ppm or less, then you can maintain minimum levels of chlorine at 2-8 ppm depending again on your CYA levels. You must meet these 3 criteria. Clear water, PASS OCLT TEST, CC LESS THAN 0.5 ppm.

You have some homework to read in the Pool School section of this forum on water chemistry, its components, what relationships they hold to one another in balancing your water chemistry, how they function, what cause ad consequence is and their principles.

Once you understand the principles and methodologies, taking care of your pool will never become easier and you will save a ton of money on water bills, snake oil pool products sold by the pool store, possibly electric bills, and consumption of chlorine.

ANOTHER THING FOR NOW...BLEACH OR LIQUID CHLORINE ONLY!!! IN 6% 8.25% you can find it anymore, or Pool Chlorine in 12% sodium hypochlorite strength. NO TRICHLOR PUCKS OR CHLORINE PUCKS OR TABS OR CALCIUM HYPOCHLORITE FOR NOW UNTIL YOU HAVE A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF THEIR IMPLICATIONS AND CONSEQUENCES.
Deal?.....

You can use Pool Math Calculator here to input your current readings, and target readings and it will tell you what and how much stuff to add to your pool.

Here is a recent post that myself and other members of TFP are currently assisting a pool owner in clearing their pool from cloudy green to cloudy blue to crystal clear.

It involves a triple filtration method that I discovered here on TFP from other TFP members a few years ago.
It is 5 pages. Give it a read. You want to filter by using a skimmer sock or fine hair net over the skimmer basket, and a Duda Diesel Bag clamped over an elbow on the return jet.


Help with Stubborn Cloudy Green - Page 5

Any questions, list them in this thread and I will get back to you asap.

For now order the test kit recommended by Taylor TF-100 or K-2006. and get some liquid chlorine.
 
Lilmama said:
I purchased a 20ft (6500 gal) Summer Waves pool last summerand like a newborn child it came with no instructions on how to take care of it.

Pool came with over the wall pump that uses cartridges, and for the beginning of summer it was great water was clear, and other than cleaning debris I had no trouble.

By mid-summer I was pulling my hair out and ready to give up. Water was cloudy, I was changing filters every other day. I do not have a fancy testing kit (I use strips) so I ended up taking water samples to local pool shop only to spend more money on chemicals than what the pool cost.

On opening pool this year we drained water and cleaned liner with bleach and water. We filled pool (May 9th)and waited 24 hrs before testing, the water is clear, however when I tested water my pH and alkalinity is off the chart high and showed no chlorine level.

I added 16oz of MA and again waited another 24 hrs. (pump running) On day 3 I get in pool and vacuum debris and wait to test in the afternoon, test showed high pH and alkalinity no chlorine so I added a lot more MA.

At thispoint I had added no shock because I had read that if pH was high it was no use in shocking, but I waited for an hour (sundown) after adding the MA and added shock which was supposed to be fast dissolving (pump running).

This morning I tested and results are still high pH and alkalinity with a low chlorinereading. Oh and I can see some shock settled on bottom of pool. My water is clear but I know it’s just a matter of time before I lose that.

My fiance is convinced that we need a better pump and not that I don’t agree, but which one that will not break the bank and work efficiently.

I am a little OCD (he says alot), so I’d like a pump that could function a good vacuum instead of the one I have that has a little white bag collecting debris from the water hosesuction. As far as chemistry goes I have not the first clue on what to do to prevent my pool from getting nasty, how often to shock, add algaecide, clarifier or any other chemical.

I don’t want to get into the let me try everything on the market again this year only to be disappointed with results.

Any sound advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

Wow, Great post and thank you for all the details. I especially like the OCD part because I am also self/family diagnosed lolol

Ok.. so you have probably read and for sure are hearing... buy a test kit. Well, I can tell you, you need information, you need that information to be accurate so you can trust it to make decisions on what adjustments you need to make to keep that water clear.

You will very very rarely see anyone here recommend Algaecide, Floc, or anything other than proper level of Chlorine, pH, TA et all. Because the fact is, once you have those balanced, your pool will not just change drastically from day to day or really even week to week without some major outside event like dirt in the water from a dump truck. Rain does not turn a TFP pool green in a day, it just doesn't happen. Anyone that says different, did not have a properly balanced TFP pool before the rain.

So, Yes, look over the test kits, pick one that you want to work with, watch some youtube videos on testing.. the money you would have spent on Algaecide and Floc will cover the test kit AND you will actually be taking a step towards a clear and Trouble Free Pool.

Welcome to the board, let us know how we can help but we can't do much without a test kit we know we can trust and unfortunately pool store test results just way to often are not accurate.

Hope this helps, thrilled to see you reach out.
 
Thanks for all the advice. Ok so ordering test kit is step 1 and understanding the chemistry is important. As soon as I can get water tested I will post what readings are and try to do some homework of my own in the Pool School to have a better understanding of what it all means. What about the pump, would it be justifiable in ordering a pump for better circulation. I struggle keeping the water stirred because I relax more in the pool than swim.
Again thank ya'll so much...​
:)
 
Is there a reason you are concerned about the pump? Like mechanically questionable or are you just asking in general does better equipment do a better job overall?

I can't really help in that area, for me, if the pump is working and water is coming out the returns when the filter is clean then I would "assume" of course you know what they say about that, that the pump you have in your signature is more than adequate for your situation but again, you could take my opinion and $1 and still not have enough to get a cup of coffee.

Pool equipment can be an issue but typically I would expect you would know pretty certainly if your pump was failing. That said, I am working with the "assumption" that your equipment is fine, it is more likely that you need accurate testing and knowledge from Pool School about how to properly balance and maintain your water.

Hope that helps, if not feel free to say so and others will chime in with more thorough information.

Lilmama said:
Thanks for all the advice. Ok so ordering test kit is step 1 and understanding the chemistry is important. As soon as I can get water tested I will post what readings are and try to do some homework of my own in the Pool School to have a better understanding of what it all means. What about the pump, would it be justifiable in ordering a pump for better circulation. I struggle keeping the water stirred because I relax more in the pool than swim.
Again thank ya'll so much...​
:)
Click to expand...
 
I have an over the wall pump (A cartridge) and it just doesn't seem to circulate very well. Its like it only circulates the top and can't get any circulation below where the skimmer and return are positioned. Just seemed like a better pump would help. So I guess this was just a general question. I know that there are pumps out there that can get pricey and I have checked to make sure there are conversion kits available for some of the ones I have looked at, like the Intex Krystal Clear. Trying to gather as much info so that I can make informed decision so thank you for the advice, I should have been more clear, my apologies.
Thanks again.
 
My apologies, I was looking at Roberts signature... can you fill your signature out with as much of the details you can and if possible add a picture, you know what they say "a picture is worth 1000 words", it is sooo true in the pool/online world.

How big is your pool, what kind of filter system you have, do you have a test kit. All of this helps everyone here get you more accurate information.

Cheers


Lilmama said:
I have an over the wall pump (A cartridge) and it just doesn't seem to circulate very well. Its like it only circulates the top and can't get any circulation below where the skimmer and return are positioned. Just seemed like a better pump would help. So I guess this was just a general question. I know that there are pumps out there that can get pricey and I have checked to make sure there are conversion kits available for some of the ones I have looked at, like the Intex Krystal Clear. Trying to gather as much info so that I can make informed decision so thank you for the advice, I should have been more clear, my apologies.
Thanks again.
Click to expand...
 
A 20’ Pool with an over the wall pump? No wonder you were pulling your hair out! How deep is it? Yes, let’s see a photo of your set up.

Excellent on ordering test kit and studying Pool School. You are going to be loving your pool in no time.
 
Welcome and yes.... you made the right decision in coming here. You'll learn...first hand... how to take care of you pool and the chemistry around it. Once you order your kit and test the levels, post the results here.
 

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What is this "MA" that you added?

Can you give a clear and concise list of everything you have added sine the drain and re-fill?

If the shock is still laying on the bottom of the pool you need to agitate it, as it will bleach the liner in that spot.

You can pick up a cheap test kit from walmart (6-way test kit [the one with little bottles NOT TEST STRIPS)) which will allow you to test CYA twice and pH/Cl (Cl only to 5 ppm so you'll need the above mentioned ones to practice the method here) if you want to get cracking before your "fancy" test kit arrives.

If you need help using PoolMath, dont hesitate to ask, it can be a bit much at first...
 
MA is muriatic acid.

Personally, I wouldn’t add anything but chlorine until you have a good kit and can test your water.
 
Sorry it has taken so long to get back on here to get the info that has bee requested but life happens. So I have been busy testing and I did add a new pump that circulates very well so there is a plus. Now for my readings:
pH -7.2 (yay it finally came down from 8.2)
Cl - 2
Fc - 1
Alk - 130
Ca - 0 (ugh)
Hardness - 50
I'm not sure how to do that signature but just a reminder I have a 7600 gallon (according to pool math calc.) above ground pool and my new pump is 2500 GPH Flow Rate (not sure if this info is needed)
Now I have seen an issue when pulling the cartridges from my previous pump, they are a rusty looking color. We are not on well water but live in country where water is not the greatest. My liner has no discoloration but there is some brown looking sediment on the floor of pool which when vacuuming it appears to be sand/dirt. How do I test for an iron issue or treat. My water is still clear, not crystal but I can see my toes when in the pool.
Thanks again for tutoring me on the pool I was ready to throw down the hill and have a stand alone deck that would of looked like who did it.....
 
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