Stonescape delaminating, new pool, please help

Jumana

Member
Feb 1, 2022
8
Texas
Hello All,

I'm in desperate need for advice.
We have a new construction pool as simple as can be.
Gunite shell, Stonescape Aqua White Mini with Glass finish.

Our troubles started on the day of the Stonescape application. The weather forecast showed a small chance of rain and we discussed this with the crew early in the day but they brushed it off and told us it shouldn't be a problem. Sure enough, it started raining as they were wrapping up and they quickly covered the whole bottom of the pool with plastic and left the site.
It continued to rain and water pooled mostly in the deep end.

On the next morning, the acid wash crew showed up and as they were pressure washing the deep end, 2 large oval areas came right off all the way down to the gunite.

The next day the Stonescape crew came back and determined that the pool is weeping from one of the sides on the wall (they said the rain was not the issue!). They proceeded to drill a hole through the side of the pool at the wall from the inside all the way through the shell then stuck a shop vac in there and sucked all the moisture out. They then prepared 2 mixtures and plugged the hole with layers alternating between the 2 mixtures repeatedly.

There was no communication with us whatsoever as the Stonescape subcontractor refused to talk to us directly and the Pool Builder did not answer our call at the time.

After plugging the hole, they mixed a new batch of Stonescape Aqua White and applied it to the 2 oval areas & the new hole. All in the same visit and immediately started filling the pool with water.

7 days after the pool was filled with water we started noticing the 2 oval areas had a difference in color. Additionally, the patched hole in the wall seemed to have a raised surface.
On the following week, a crack appeared and the hole and the patch started to separate from the wall. (See photo)

We noticed water loss in the pool as we were losing 1.5" every 3 days. A 3rd party performed a bucket test and confirmed this.

We informed the Pool Builder of this and he promised that the Stonescape subcontractor would come out and investigate.

It is now day 40 after filling the pool with water, the Stonescape subcontractor's plan to fix this is:
1. Drain the pool.
2. Re-do the hole patch.
3. Grind down and resurface the whole pool. [Edit: only the top coat will be sanded and redone, no chip out]
(All at their expense)
We are still withholding 20% of the total payment.

When we asked them the purpose of point #3 they explained that that's the only way they would guarantee an even color also (to make sure there are no further issues?)

At this point, our main concern is the water loss and the hole in the wall. The color issue is the last of our concerns.
My question to you is should we let them resurface the whole pool or not? will this reduce the lifetime of the Stonescape?
How will the resurface bond to the newly applied surface?

Any advice you would have to us at this point is very much appreciated. I am sick to my stomach having to deal with such major issues with a NEW CONSTRUCTION pool !!!

(If it matters, we brushed the pool twice a day for the first week and once a day for the 2nd week, and so much plaster was coming out. The pool builder kept telling us it's not required to brush at all. everything I read online said to brush!)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0514.jpg
    IMG_0514.jpg
    347.9 KB · Views: 64
  • IMG_0513.jpg
    IMG_0513.jpg
    354.5 KB · Views: 68
  • IMG_0279.jpeg
    IMG_0279.jpeg
    545.7 KB · Views: 70
  • IMG_0346.jpeg
    IMG_0346.jpeg
    621.1 KB · Views: 70
  • IMG_0347.jpeg
    IMG_0347.jpeg
    625.4 KB · Views: 71
  • IMG_0348.jpeg
    IMG_0348.jpeg
    466.5 KB · Views: 67
  • IMG_0345.jpg
    IMG_0345.jpg
    583.4 KB · Views: 65
Last edited:
Welcome to TFP :)

You have to find the leak first, that is your most important part right now.. Once you find the leak and get it stopped then you can start with the plaster.. The water will stop going down at or just below the leak...

The best way is a complete chip out and start over.. I am not sure about sanding the plaster down and resurfacing??
 
Hi Jumana, I am sorry to hear what you're going through. For what a pool costs, it is beyond frustrating to have the kind of issue you're having. I am no professional, but from what I've heard, the complete chip out is the best way to go. I think there must be a leak, like cowboycasey said. I had very heavy rain on the day my pool was plastered and it was okay, from what I could tell (will be second summer this year). Good luck!
 

Attachments

  • 155213-195c4e28fd862602b38f00bffa87ca00.jpg
    155213-195c4e28fd862602b38f00bffa87ca00.jpg
    25.7 KB · Views: 18
The pool builder came out yesterday and dug out trenches at the plumbing pipes and determined the source of the leak at one of the plumbing lines.
They made the repair and conducted another bucket test.
This morning there seems to be no water loss.
I just got better clarification regarding point #3 and was informed that they want to itch the top surface and redo it. no chip out.
 
Last edited:
The pool builder came out yesterday and dug out trenches at the plumbing pipes and determined the source of the leak at one of the plumbing lines.
They made the repair and conducted another bucket test.
This morning there seems to be no water loss.
that's great!
 
@Jumana how quickly do they intend to do the replaster?

@onBalance should they let the existing plaster cure for 30 days before a new coat of plaster is put on?

Or can a new coat of plaster be put right on top of week old plaster?

Should a bond coat be put on the curing plaster before they put a skim coat of new plaster on?

 
@Jumana how quickly do they intend to do the replaster?

@onBalance should they let the existing plaster cure for 30 days before a new coat of plaster is put on?

Or can a new coat of plaster be put right on top of week old plaster?

Should a bond coat be put on the curing plaster before they put a skim coat of new plaster on?

The plaster is now 40 days old. The Stonescape was sprayed on Jan 31, 2022
 
The plaster is now 40 days old. The Stonescape was sprayed on Jan 31, 2022
I would insist they put a bonding coat on before any new plaster and let the bonding coat dry for at least 24 hours.
 
"Acid Etching" the plaster surface (making it rough and pitted by using many gallons of acid) as the prep for replastering was the common way to do things years ago. Today, a full chip-out is more common and generally better to achieve a good tight bond and not result in delamination areas. The question is whether the plaster contractor normally does a full chip-out when replastering (when bidding a job), or does he normally do acid etching (a less expensive method). In this case, is he just wanting to save some money.

New plaster (within a few months) that hasn't fully hydrated is easier to bond to than older plaster that has fully hydrated. As ajw mentioned, I would also recommend a bond coat to be applied prior to replastering.

It will be important to check the entire pool for delaminated areas. Tapping every square foot of the pool with something hard and listening for hollow sounds is one way to check this. Any plaster area that has a hollow sound (delaminated) needs to be hammered out and removed down to the gunite.

(I just realized this): You mentioned a "glass finish" - if that means the plaster contains glass beads, then IMO, they need to completely removed the entire coat of plaster and down to the gunite. That is because new plaster is unlikely to bond to the glass beads because they are probably not affected by acid.
 
  • Like
Reactions: nowright

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Highlighting this...

(I just realized this): You mentioned a "glass finish" - if that means the plaster contains glass beads, then IMO, they need to completely removed the entire coat of plaster and down to the gunite. That is because new plaster is unlikely to bond to the glass beads because they are probably not affected by acid.
 
@onBalance thank you for the quick reply.
They're only offering the acid etching. No chip out.
We do have the mini glass beads as you can see in the photos.

I am willing to accept the 2 oval discolored areas as is, as I don't have confidence in the plaster subcontractor's acid etching approach.
My question to you is:
Will they be able to repair the delaminated area at the pool wall after draining the pool? what is the correct way to patch it?

We will be doing the tapping test on the whole surface once they drain it out to identify if there are any other areas.
 
Yes, they can remove delaminated areas and patch with new plaster when the pool has been drained. Just make sure they expose the gunite, effectively make the gunite rough by chipping and acid washing those areas, apply a glue or bond coat, and then try to match the color of rest of pool.

Also, have the builder and plasterer provide a written guarantee that if any "calcium nodules" appear within 3 years, that they will drain and completely replaster the pool. Random calcium nodules means that the plaster is delaminating.
Read about this issue here: Calcium Nodules in pools

Very unfortunate and sorry that there were serious mistakes done in plastering of the pool.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.