Should I abandon my Inline Chlorinator

[jlamb5990]

New (and first) pool owner here. We just got finished on a new build and finished about 3 weeks ago. Our PB has us set up with a cartridge filter, VS Pump, a UV Filter and then an In-line Chlorinator using pucks. They came out and did a startup for us and added a stack of pucks to the Chlorinator and some CYA to the pool. Instructions were to test the water and bring it to a pool store for a few weeks and take their recommendations until we get in a groove. I posted the results below of our first water test. Since then I’ve got the chlorine levels under control but worry for the future. On the chlorine of things We were told to basically just use the valve on the Chlorinator to raise and lower the amount of water flowing and this raise or lower the chlorine levels (no mention of CYA) and just add pucks to the Chlorinator as needed. Our PB was a super nice guy and very knowledgeable so I trust he knows what he’s doing but after reading so much here, I’m not so sure.

I’ve been living on this site trying to learn as much as I can about maintenance and it seems like Chlorinator and pucks are a one way ticket to overstable pools and algae.

Is there a way to use the Chlorinator properly and not end up with high CYA or is it not even worth using it at this point and just doing liquid as needed?

Thanks!

 

[ajw22]

Is there a way to use the Chlorinator properly and not end up with high CYA or is it not even worth using it at this point and just doing liquid as needed?

Once your CYA gets around 40 you need to abandon the chlorinator and use liquid chlorine. Eventually most folks install a SWG or Stenner pump when they get tired of lugging jugs.

 

[jlamb5990]

Once your CYA gets around 40 you need to abandon the chlorinator and use liquid chlorine. Eventually most folks install a SWG or Stenner pump when they get tired of lugging jugs.

Ok thanks! According to that water test I’m at 52 already. Am I already in trouble only 4 weeks in?

 

[ajw22]

Get your own test kit. The TF-100 Test Kit ™ or Taylor K2006C.

We round up so your CYA may be 60. Follow the FC/CYA Levels. Your minimum FC is 5 and your target FC is 7-9.

With higher CYA you get FC targets over 10 which cause the pH test to be invalid.

So you are at the max CYA. It will degrade over time. You are ok but don’t want more CYA.

 

[Mdragger88]

Ok thanks! According to that water test I’m at 52 already. Am I already in trouble only 4 weeks in?

Wow - if that’s accurate, its definitely time to switch to liquid chlorine.
Save the pucks/chlorinator for vacations-
Also the tablets are acidic so they can wreak havoc on ph & ta if used blindly.
PoolMath effects of adding can show u the effects each tablet has on all parameters of your water chemistry. Most tabs are 8oz.

get yourself a Taylor k2006 or tf100/pro test kit Test Kits Compared
So you can follow the Recommended Levels & accurately manage the parameters more closely. Testing once a week doesn’t really cut it for fc & ph
& pool store cya tests aren’t really known for their accuracy.
The whole theme here is to know exactly what you put in your water & what it is going to do to it & only put in what testing calls for (what the pool needs).
No more, no less.
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

 

[jlamb5990]

Wow - if that’s accurate, its definitely time to switch to liquid chlorine.
Save the pucks/chlorinator for vacations-
Also the tablets are acidic so they can wreak havoc on ph & ta if used blindly.
PoolMath effects of adding can show u the effects each tablet has on all parameters of your water chemistry. Most tabs are 8oz.

get yourself a Taylor k2006 or tf100/pro test kit Test Kits Compared
So you can follow the Recommended Levels & accurately manage the parameters more closely. Testing once a week doesn’t really cut it for fc & ph
& pool store cya tests aren’t really known for their accuracy.
The whole theme here is to know exactly what you put in your water & what it is going to do to it & only put in what testing calls for (what the pool needs).
No more, no less.
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Thanks! Ya I ordered a Taylor 2600c and it get delivered Thursday. Until then I’ve just been using the strips that our PB gave us. I just took all the tablets out of the Chlorinator this evening to be safe and am switching to Liquid officially.

Any advice on how to measure how much liquid to add until my Taylor Kit comes in? Are the test strips a viable option to work off of until Thursday or is there some standard to just add daily until the kit arrives. Thanks!

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Have you downloaded the Pool Math app yet? You can also use the Old PoolMath webpage link below. You'll need to know the volume of your pool in gallons, the strength (in percentage) of the liquid chlorine/bleach, and the estimated chlorine loss of your pool. This time of year, you'll be safe adding about 2 ppm daily, though your actual daily loss should be less.

 

[jlamb5990]

Have you downloaded the Pool Math app yet? You can also use the Old PoolMath webpage link below. You'll need to know the volume of your pool in gallons, the strength (in percentage) of the liquid chlorine/bleach, and the estimated chlorine loss of your pool. This time of year, you'll be safe adding about 2 ppm daily, though your actual daily loss should be less.

Yep I downloaded the app and plugged in my rough estimates of everything based on the test strip but I get the feeling that’s hardly accurate. Especially since it’s not even showing a CYA reading or a alkalinity reading in the color spectrum as well as

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Yep I downloaded the app and plugged in my rough estimates of everything based on the test strip but I get the feeling that’s hardly accurate. Especially since it’s not even showing a CYA reading or a alkalinity reading in the color spectrum as well as

Don't worry about the test results. You'll get by until Thursday. All we want to do is keep the pool chlorinated until then.

 

[jlamb5990]

Don't worry about the test results. You'll get by until Thursday. All we want to do is keep the pool chlorinated until then.

Perfect. Thanks! I didn’t think I would become this paranoid or obsessed with all this but I’m kind of loving it ha!

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Adding chlorine manually will become a bit of a chore. During the swim season, you'll need to add 2-4 ppm daily to keep the pool sanitized. If you're away, you'll have to use tablets (bad) or rely on family or friends to help out. Start thinking about a adding a salt water chlorine generator (SWG). Costs vary depending on the size of your pool, but plan on $1,000-$1,500.

 

[jlamb5990]

Adding chlorine manually will become a bit of a chore. During the swim season, you'll need to add 2-4 ppm daily to keep the pool sanitized. If you're away, you'll have to use tablets (bad) or rely on family or friends to help out. Start thinking about a adding a salt water chlorine generator (SWG). Costs vary depending on the size of your pool, but plan on $1,000-$1,500.

Will do...Is a SWG the same as a salt water pool? I have seen some stuff about salt being corrosive to equipment and decking over time. Is that an overreaction or is there more to that claim?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Is a SWG the same as a salt water pool?

Yep

Is that an overreaction

Yep. Products containing chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) and other chemicals leave behind salt as a byproduct. It's not unusual for non-saltwater pools to have levels above 2,000 ppm after a few years. Most SWGs require around 3,000 ppm of salt to operate (ocean salinity is 10 times that amount). Most complaints about corrosion and damage are caused by bad water chemistry and/or the use of cheap building materials, not the nominal amount of salt in pools.

 

[jlamb5990]

Yep

Yep. Products containing chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) and other chemicals leave behind salt as a byproduct. It's not unusual for non-saltwater pools to have levels above 2,000 ppm after a few years. Most SWGs require around 3,000 ppm of salt to operate (ocean salinity is 10 times that amount). Most complaints about corrosion and damage are caused by bad water chemistry and/or the use of cheap building materials, not the nominal amount of salt in pools.

wow good to know...i feel like my PB chastised a Salt Water system and also the people at the pool store testing the water gasped a sigh of relief when i said we did not have a salt water system. What's their angle? The pool world is so confusing and seems so tough to know who to trust haha

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

What's their angle?

Lack of knowledge? Ignorance? It's easy to blame salt when things go wrong.

Trust your 300,000 friends here at TFP. Resist the urge to mix advice from different sources.

 

[jlamb5990]

Lack of knowledge? Ignorance? It's easy to blame salt when things go wrong.

Trust your 300,000 friends here at TFP. Resist the urge to mix advice from different sources.

Yep that sounds like solid advice. Im sure i'll be posting a lot more soon. Everyone here is so helpful and nice. Seems like a great community.

One more question. If the SWG investment is not one im willing to make at this moment in time. Is there anything wrong with working with just Liquid Chlorine for the foreseeable future (years probably)? Also, is there a granular chlorine option that doesn't contain CYA or is liquid the only option.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Liquid chlorine is a good option as long as you can keep FC levels above TFP recommended minimums.

Your other option is calcium hypochlorite (cal-hypo). Instead of adding CYA, it adds calcium to the pool.

As mentioned earlier, one of the cornerstones of TFP is understanding the effects of chemicals to the pool. Both forms of solid chlorine are safe to use as long as you monitor and control CYA and calcium levels. Keep the in-line chlorinator in place for times when you're unable to manually dose liquid.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

...

 

[HermanTX]

One more question. If the SWG investment is not one im willing to make at this moment in time. Is there anything wrong with working with just Liquid Chlorine for the foreseeable future (years probably)? Also, is there a granular chlorine option that doesn't contain CYA or is liquid the only option.

I have been using LC for years and have never had a algae problem and fine with storing and handling LC.
Suggest you keep your pucks because if you go away on vacation, you can add LC before you depart and then put pucks in your chlorinator to maintain your LC while you are away. I use a floater in the pool to hold my pucks when I am away.

 

[Mdragger88]

Here’s some info that answers alot of your questions

How to Chlorinate Your Pool

Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.

www.troublefreepool.com