Salt Sensor is bad?

Turn the SWG on and set to 100% and post the diagnostic readings.

If the cell is 10 years old most likely it needs to be replaced but the diagnostic readings will tell us if it needs to be replaced.
 
Turn the SWG on and set to 100% and post the diagnostic readings.

If the cell is 10 years old most likely it needs to be replaced but the diagnostic readings will tell us if it needs to be replaced.

+32.07V +0.07A
68F 000PPM
Is this what you mean? I have no idea what I am doing.

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10 years is a good run. I'd just get a new cell. Don't be tempted by generic cells, they are bad news.

Is the Salt Sensor in the Cell? If I replace the cell, the problem is solved?
 
Thanks for the helpful answers.

A few follow-ups….

  1. Should I stick with the Hayward, or is there another brand that is cheaper and reliable?
  2. There are 22,000 gallons in my pool. The T-15 that is on it is rated at 40,000 gallons. The T-9 is rated at 25.000. Is there a reason to use the T-15?
  3. The System is Aqua Logic 2.85 from 2007. Will I have compatibility issues?
  4. Looking at sources on the internet, some of the SWG seem to come without the cord. Is that so, or am I just misreading it? If so, are they difficult to move over?

Thanks-
 
I would go with the Hayward T-15. It comes with the cord and will work with your system.

The AquaLogic can only take a T-15 or a T-5.

The T-15 is the best value. The T-5 is undersized and might not keep up during peak demand.

Also, the pump needs to run longer with a smaller cell.
 
I bought a new T-15 and installed it. The board read 0 ppm salt.

(6) 40 lb bags were added. It then read 1900 ppm.

(6) 40 lb bags were added. It still read 1900 ppm.

(6) 40 lb bags were added. It still read 1900 ppm.

I go into the diagnostics and it doesn't give all the information that it did before. All it gives is temperatures and software versions.

Is it possible the new cell isn't shaking hands with the old board?
 

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I turned the power off, removed the display board, and reinstalled it.
Salt reads 1900 ppm.... diagnostic just reads flow and software versions.

I turned the timer switch to off, then turned chlorinate to 50%, then turned the timer back on.
Salt reads 1900 ppm.... diagnostic just reads flow and software versions.

For giggles, I put the old T-cell on.
No change... Salt reads 1900 ppm.... diagnostic just reads flow and software versions.

I don't know if this means anything... the flowswitch reads "No Flow."

Any idea what's going on?
 
Ok, I got confused at the end. I forgot that you had aqualogic. I was thinking about aquarite. If you can list aqualogic in the signature, that would help.

Since it's saying no flow, the cell won't turn on.

If you're sure that there is flow, you might have a bad flow switch. Unplug the flow switch and plug it back in.

If that doesn't work, you can use a plug in jack with the wires tied together to simulate a closed switch to see if that works. Make sure that there is flow and that the swg is set to 0 percent and superchlorinate is off. Just do it briefly as a test. Do not leave the switch bypassed.
 
Ok, I got confused at the end. I forgot that you had aqualogic. I was thinking about aquarite. If you can list aqualogic in the signature, that would help.

Since it's saying no flow, the cell won't turn on.

If you're sure that there is flow, you might have a bad flow switch. Unplug the flow switch and plug it back in.

If that doesn't work, you can use a plug in jack with the wires tied together to simulate a closed switch to see if that works. Make sure that there is flow and that the swg is set to 0 percent and superchlorinate is off. Just do it briefly as a test. Do not leave the switch bypassed.

Thank you.

The flow is visible through the filter.

I unplugged the flow switch from the pipe and the board, plugged it back in. No change.

I unplugged the jack and plugged in one with the wires tied together. It didn't give full diagnostic info, but it did give different items-
- Chlorinator off ~ percentage met
-instant salt ~ 0000 PPM (+=save)
-flow switch ~ flow
... then temps and software versions.
 
Ok, if you definitely have flow, I think that the flow switch is bad.

You should be able to make it come on by increasing the percentage or turning on superchlorinate.

I would replace the flow sensor first before turning on the cell.

Once you get the new flow sensor in, turn the percentage to 50% then go to instant salt and if the number is good, press + to save and update.
 
Ok, if you definitely have flow, I think that the flow switch is bad.

You should be able to make it come on by increasing the percentage or turning on superchlorinate.

I would replace the flow sensor first before turning on the cell.

Once you get the new flow sensor in, turn the percentage to 50% then go to instant salt and if the number is good, press + to save and update.

Will do. Thanks-
 

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