Salt Cell Failure - Post-mortem with pictures

The world we live in has moved away from repair to replace. Just look at any auto repair shop today, you have a problem, they diagnose it and replace a component no real repairs happening. TV stops working, try to find a repair shop today. They build to the lowest common denominator, Joe homeowner who can't change a tire on his car without AAA.

Nice job on your dissection and analysis by the way - Thanks!
 
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A new Hayward T-15 cell sells for $400, (not $500) and nine years of service makes your chlorine cost about $45 per year. Sounds like a bargain.
 
Actually, unless you made a habit of checking your readings regularly and while the cell was actually generating, you probably would have no indication of the slow changes over time.

Why can't you rebuild it? Just have to reseal it, right?

Having had issues with a circuit board and inrush limiters, it's been on my radar screen. And I've been watching more closely as we went 2,3,4 years past "normal" lifespan.

The problem with resealing it is getting it apart without destroying it. As is you would need a <1mm kerf, or a perfect fit sleeve, to reassemble it. Even then, you need to keep the OAL the same to fit/seal in the existing installation.

I think the Aquarite units output current/voltage readings. However, the Aquarite would only display the aggregate voltage and current across all plates.

The 2 cathodes are bonded, and the other 10 plates are unconnected. There is only one potential to measure.

A new Hayward T-15 cell sells for $400, (not $500) and nine years of service makes your chlorine cost about $45 per year. Sounds like a bargain.

Monthly payment is how car dealers sell cars at retail. $200 saved is $200 earned. My $200.

Plus, we throw away too much stuff. Repair for $400 or replace for $500, and 95% of Americans throw it away. I'm not a tree hugger, but unnecessary waste is terrible for the environment. A reusable modular housing would have kept 75% of this unit out of the landfill. Connector, cable, housing, sensor. Only the plates and plate frame needed replacement.

And did I mention that I'm a geek at heart?

But he chopped it open with a hack-saw....

Table saw, actually. :)

I would suspect that your salt level is much higher than you think it is.

Considered that when it croaked. The last reading of the old cell (2800), and the stable instant reading of the new cell (3000), differed by 200ppm.
 
Most cells degrade in performance over time. It is unusual for a cell to perform like new to the end. Is your new cell a T-15 and is the unit set to T-15?

I would suggest getting a Taylor salt test kit.

Can you post the current diagnostic readings?

Also note that the center plate can be an anode or cathode depending on the polarity, which switches every two or three hours depending on the software revision. The inside of the outer plates act as an anode or cathode depending on the polarity. The plates between the center and outer plates are anodes on one side and cathodes on the opposite side.
 
Marine epoxy or JB Weld could rebuild the outer sleeve. I mean it looks like you did a clean job of cutting and I don't see too much that would need gap filling other then the thickness of the saw blade. If you want to send me the parts, I'd be willing to give it a try. :)
 
A clean job? I hacked a 1/2" chunk out, very roughly, freehanding it with a table saw. It was dead Jim....

Yes, T15 old and new. I replaced it with a Chlorinator Pro.
67deg
26.6v
5.71A
34%
-3100
AL-0
r1.58
T15
 
Polished stud and plate. Note: wire brush was sparking while polishing.

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Excellent! All the particles fell to the floor, which has a good 1/4" of sawdust.

Well, at least it has some Al powder and Ammonium Perchlorate to keep it company. ;)

I prefer thermite reactions myself. Nothing like a little powdered aluminum and iron oxide to get the party started ;)

As a child I made my own gunpowder once out of fertilizer, charcoal from briquettes and sulfur dust my dad used in the garden. I thought I was being very ingenious but the switch that got taken to my rear-end indicated that my parents were less than impressed with my amateur chemistry skills.


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How far up did your 2-stage go? Any flight video footage? Did NORAD get ticked off at you :p


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Please update your location so I can avoid missile strikes when I fly ;)


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We have waivers, so it's on the NOTAM. Unfortunately, that seems to attract more planes (spectating) than it keeps away. We've had small Cessnas Circle the field repeatedly. Makes you want to radio and say, "Aircraft. You are in my airspace. My aircraft flies 800 miles an hour, is made of carbon fiber and steel, and cannot steer."

They circle and icircle, but It never seems to occur to them that the long delay is us waiting for them to clear our airspace.
 
I would suspect that your salt level is much higher than you think it is.

Update: Contrary to what I posted earlier, this may prove to be true.

At install time, my instant salt was 3200 and my average zero (I reset to instant). This morning I checked it and my avg was 4000 with a 3800 instant. And that is after about 7in of rain in the past two months.

Is there a break in period? Manufacturing residue?
 
Typically, the cell gives an accurate read after about 24 hours. I'm not familiar with the Chlorinator Pro brand, but I would think it should perform roughly the same. In any case, I would suggest getting a Taylor k-1766 salt test kit.
 

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