Rheem Pool Heater Getting CLK on Display

[Palmero]

Hi All,

Model: P-M267AEN-C
Serial: 0701192652

Heater suddenly started showing code CLK occasionally. When powered on, the display goes through the normal CFH, and then SPK, but instead of firing, I sometimes get CLK. I cleaned all heater parts including manifold gas injectors and made sure pool filter is clean and water pressure is within limits.

I tapped the front controls and CLK code went away. I then reset all connectors on the system board and heater worked for a number of hours. But after a while, the CLK came back.

Doing a bit of research online, the CLK code is normal if there is a "fireman's switch" installed to cool down the heater prior to the pump going off. However, I do not have this installed. The pump works on a normal mechanical timer.

Pressure sensor? Bad Board?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Show us pictures of your equipment pad and the "mechanical timer".

The mechanical timer likley is connected to the "fireman's switch".

 

[Palmero]

There is no fireman's switch. I found out that the temperature sensor connector is loose on the board. Seems the solder points broke off. After getting the CLK code intermittently I'm now getting a steady SNS (sensor) code.

I am now looking for a replacement board or maybe someone who can fix it. The solder points are too small for my soldering skills.

The green arrow in the photo shows the loose connector. The orange arrow shows a black attachment that I'm not sure what it's for. How do you disconnect this? Twist? Pull straight out?

Thank you.

 

[ajw22]

Maybe @1poolman1 @wireform has put their hands on the board.

 

[1poolman1]

There is no fireman's switch. I found out that the temperature sensor connector is loose on the board. Seems the solder points broke off. After getting the CLK code intermittently I'm now getting a steady SNS (sensor) code.

I am now looking for a replacement board or maybe someone who can fix it. The solder points are too small for my soldering skills.

The green arrow in the photo shows the loose connector. The orange arrow shows a black attachment that I'm not sure what it's for. How do you disconnect this? Twist? Pull straight out?

Thank you.

The large black part is a high-voltage coil that generates the spark. It is not a removable part. The orange wire does come out of the center, with some effort at times.

 

[Palmero]

Thanks for the information. Never seen this type of setup before on a board.

Guess I'll just pull the center wire straight out. Hopefully without breaking it.

Thanks again.

 

[Palmero]

Maybe @1poolman1 @wireform has put their hands on the board.

?

 

[swamprat69]

The amount of corrosion that would be present on that connection would not impede the very high voltage going through the connection but might effect proving the flame. Make sure that the parts at the other end where the spark is generated are all clean bare metal and that you have a good ground at that point. This would be the burners if they are lit directly by the spark ignitor or the pilot assembly if the spark ignitor lights a pilot flame.