Replacing the pool plumbing

[rnaval]

I’ve decided to replace my inground pool’s plumbing as there is a leak when I run the pump, I lose about 1 inch of water overnight when I run the pump. I’m planning to run new pvc pipes from the skimmers and return jets to the equipment. Appreciate any suggestions or tips before I get started on this major DIY effort. For starters, what should the pitch be? Do I pitch away from the pool skimmers and return jets or does it not matter?

 

[Bill1974]

I did this a few years ago myself.

• Plan out your equipment pad so you know where to end all your lines and make serving easy.
• I used 1-1/2 rigid pvc pipe to all my skimmers and returns, some suggest using 2". I had all home runs to my equipment pad so I was not concerned with too much flow and cavitation in the lines, 2" pipe pretty much eliminates this possibility. This also will allow me to cap off a line if there is an issue and still be able to filter.
• Try to use sweep elbows and not standard 90° elbows and not DWV sweep elbows. I occasionally find them at some lowes and Leslies pool stores but I normally just order them then running around looking for them. or use two 45° elbows.
• Pressure test before filling back in your trenches. 20-30 PSI is fine. Sealing the returns was a challenge for me.
• Rent a small excavator to dig your trenches, just be careful to not damage the pool.
• Ideally the pipe would be pitched to make blowing out lines in the winter easy and to add anti freeze easily. Mine are not pitched just use a good size shop vac exhaust have not had an issue.
• Fix the conduit to any pool lights if your already in that area. Replace if needed as well
• Be careful with replacing the pipe connected to your skimmers or returns, if the skimmers or returns need to be replaced you may end up needing a new liner. Both of my return fitting were cracked and leaking, fortunately my liner was only months old and still flexible. I also kick myself at the time that I did not replace them when the liner was replaced.
• Make sure to maintain the bonding wire around the pool.
• The larger the trench the easier it is to work in. Also minimizes the issue of knocking dirt back in.
• It's a lot of bending over, remember to stretch before and take breaks.
• Don't forget backwash line
• if you need to run new electric (I upgraded mine so i can install a HP)
• Need to run sprinkler lines or a hose bib, also a good time
• Set all the line deep enough so there is no worry about drilling hole for a safety cover
• keep track of where all the lines are after they are buried incase you ever need to work on them again.

 

[rnaval]

Hi Bill - this is extremely helpful, thank you, I was planning to cut a new trench and run new lines instead of messing with the old ones, will a trencher used for installing sprinkler pipes suffice? Also what equipment did you use to pressure test?

 

[Bill1974]

•Skimmer I used threaded PVC pipe plugs with teflon tape.
•Returns I tried winter plugs with o-rings, but they leaked after a few psi. I made some that looked like this Tool, Nylon Test Plug, 1-1/2", 1-1/2" Pipe but they had a longer bolt so i could get them in the pipe that was in the return fitting.
•The end of the pipe at the equipment pad i used a pvc tee with a pressure gauge and a valve so i could add air in a controlled manner and also connect an air compressor to the other side.

I initially tried with an expanding fitting with a shrader valve to pressurize the line, but I ended up having them blow out (more like launch out, still haven't found one). 20 psi is a good amount of stored energy in a pool line. Reminded me of a spud gun, but air powered and not aquanet powered.

 

[rnaval]

So a trencher tool will allow me to go 24” deep at the most, will that be deep enough? I realize the skimmer pipes will be deeper than that, will it be ok for me to angle the pipe and bring it up to 24” level and then run it at that level all the way to the equipment?

 

[Bill1974]

My return lines are a little deeper down than the returns themselves. I got a bit carried away using the excavator and was getting a bit more proficient using it at this point.

The skimmer lines are at the bottom of the skimmer housing depth for a a good but before they sloped up by the equipment pad.

My only experience with a trencher is one that I will never use one again. In clay soil it should work fine. But if it is sandy it will cave back in. In gravel it's also a lost cause. It's going to depend on how was your pool back filled. If there are rocks it will jam up the trencher too. Cleaning up a narrow trench with a trenching shovel is slow going too. Also with a trencher is you catch a wire or pipe it may get wrapped. I am guessing you are looking to do as little damage as possible. I was not really concerned in my case since I was having the entire patio to redone. To limit the mess, put down plywood down next to where you want to trench and careful digging with an trenching bucket on a small excavator should control the mess. I did all my digging in one day. Some of my trenches are deep because I used direct burial wire and that required being 24 inches deep.

 

[rnaval]

My soil is fill I brought during construction so a trencher should work fine. Sounds like it’s ok for the pipes to go at different depths. What’s the bonding wire requirement? I have a bonding wire coming from the pool light I think but didn’t know I need to attach the pvc pipes to it. Where do I find more info on that?

 

[rnaval]

I also have pavers I need to partially remove so that creates a whole new headache for this effort

 

[Bill1974]

The bonding wire comments was just to remind you that there are wires you may encounter than need to be maintained. The PVC does not need to be bonded. Items that are typically bonded together, metal pool structure, pool lights and niches, metal conduit, ladders and railings and their mounting cups, pool pump, diving board supports, rebar in concrete around the pool or pool equipment, soil around the pool (bare copper wire is in the soil), power supplies for pool equipment and pool heaters.

For your pavers, take up what you need. Not sure how easy or effective it will be, but if you could brace the pavers that are not taken up, it may make getting the paver back in easier. Likely you will need to cut some pavers down to make them fit, try taking a little off of a few than all off of one to mask the fact they were messed with. If they are already showing some shifting and settling may be worthwhile to reset a larger area.

 

[rnaval]

I’m told most of the leaks in pool plumbing are located within 3-5 feet of the skimmer or return lines.