replacing mechanical timer with digital timer

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I generally work for beer. But, even though I'm retired, I care for six-year-old daughter while my wife continues to pursue her career goals. Weekends are usually booked so no time there. I'll help out the best I can from home.

How confident are you in your skills/abilities? I did a lot research and learned as I went, but my head was spinning most of the time. The most challenging part of the project is sourcing components that will work with the power requirements. I know your pump works off 240 volts, but so you have 120 volts going to the pad?

The valve actuators require 24 VAC power, so you need a transformer for the valves. The switches need a power source as well. I selected switches that accept 24 VAC so I could power both sides of switches with the same source. There's not a large selection of WiFi switch/relays that accept 24 VAC power. All switches need to work off the same app. For low voltage wire, I used solid jacketed thermostat wire. It works better than stranded wire when making connections to the terminals on the relays it's outdoor rated, it's easy to find at HD, and it's inexpensive.

The TH-16 requires 120 or 240 volt power. I wasn't able to get it to work 240 though so I tapped into a 120 volt outlet for power.

The Intellicomm (for pump control) requires 9-24 VDC to power the interface. You need the RS-485 cable that should have been supplied with your pump.

Find an outdoor rated electrical junction box that is large enough for transformers and relays. Lots of choices on Amazon. Familiarize yourself with flexible conduit and Liquidtight connectors.

You think it's something you can handle?

 

[crackers8199]

I generally work for beer. But, even though I'm retired, I care for six-year-old daughter while my wife continues to pursue her career goals. Weekends are usually booked so no time there. I'll help out the best I can from home.

How confident are you in your skills/abilities? I did a lot research and learned as I went, but my head was spinning most of the time. The most challenging part of the project is sourcing components that will work with the power requirements. I know your pump works off 240 volts, but so you have 120 volts going to the pad?

The valve actuators require 24 VAC power, so you need a transformer for the valves. The switches need a power source as well. I selected switches that accept 24 VAC so I could power both sides of switches with the same source. There's not a large selection of WiFi switch/relays that accept 24 VAC power. All switches need to work off the same app. For low voltage wire, I used solid jacketed thermostat wire. It works better than stranded wire when making connections to the terminals on the relays it's outdoor rated, it's easy to find at HD, and it's inexpensive.

The TH-16 requires 120 or 240 volt power. I wasn't able to get it to work 240 though so I tapped into a 120 volt outlet for power.

The Intellicomm (for pump control) requires 9-24 VDC to power the interface. You need the RS-485 cable that should have been supplied with your pump.

Find an outdoor rated electrical junction box that is large enough for transformers and relays. Lots of choices on Amazon. Familiarize yourself with flexible conduit and Liquidtight connectors.

You think it's something you can handle?

i think i can handle *most* of it, as long as you're willing to do some virtual hand holding. i appreciate it...

 

[1poolman1]

i've got an intermatic mechanical dial timer that i want to replace with a digital timer. something like this...

https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-ET1125C-24-Hour-Electronic-120-277/dp/B002TC4A08/ref=sr_1_3?crid=STFUI41GW32Z&keywords=ET1705C&qid=1653188515&sprefix=et1705c%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-3&th=1

...but i'm not sure how to transfer the wiring over. can anyone look at this picture of my existing timer and tell me how i'd wire the new one to match it?

Bring the wires from the breaker to the Timer Power terminals on the new clock. (not sure which color that is). Run a jumper wire from Timer one to Line 1 and a jumper from Timer 2 to Line 2. The wire on 2 and 4 of the old go to Load 1 and Load 2 of the new clock. The extra wire (red or blue) on the line terminals of the old clock will go into Line 1 and 2 of the new clock. Be sure to use the same wire gauge as the wires you now have and do not mix stranded with solid.

 

[Puttson2]

where can i find the exact model number? i don't see any markings on the timer itself. i do have a heater, but the timer only controls the salt cell.

as for the reason, i'm just looking to upgrade it to something that's easier to make changes on. i'm sick of the stupid little trippers falling off, want something electronic.

I have never seen an inground pool that was a 110 volt so with that in mind just find intermatic timer that controls a 240v motor

 

[chiefwej]

I have automated most of my pool without any automation system. Yet, I’m still using an Intermatic mechanical timer for my SWG. They are very dependable and last for many, many years.

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