Replace plumbing on IG pool with buried hose and barb fittings

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disjustice

Member
Jul 1, 2024
17
Boston, MA
I recently got a new pump and when I install it, my intent was to upgrade the plumbing on my pad from 1.5" to 2". I was going to have to redo some stuff anyway due to the difference in size of the new pump. As part of this I was going to have to rebuild the valve manifold on the suction side. However, the lines going to/from my pool are not rigid PVC or even flex PVC. They are semi- flexible AWWA C901 polyethylene plastic hose that are connected to the pad plumbing via barb connectors. I'm a little wary of touching these. Am I right to be concerned? Should I abandon my upgrade plans and just leave well enough alone? Even if I don't replace the manifold, they left me no straight pipe to work with to install the new pump off of.

I'd have to remove the barb fittings and replace them as they are glued into the existing 1.5" ball valves. I intended to replace the existing valves with Jandy 1.5"/2" 2-way diverters. The 1.5" will slip into the valve from the pool side, and I will use 2" straight coupling on the pump side.
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Here's a close up of the interface. A couple of them have very slow leaks, so something needs to be done about them anyway. And by slow I mean like they are damp, but not visibly dripping water or anything.
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Here's the hose coming up from the ground. Judging by the markings, the hose is almost exactly 20 years old. I'm a little concerned that it is brittle and wouldn't accept a new barb fitting without cracking.
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They used poly (sprinkler) pipe for a long time up here. There's at least one up by you still using it as a member had it installed last year. So long as it's blown for the winter it's good for a long time.

You probably need to go to a Ferguson's or similar plumbing supply store for new barb fittings. HD/Lowes have limited selections and I usually have to hit both, or even a couple of both, to get the common sizes i need when doing sprinkler work. You'd need a miracle to find yours at those two. :ROFLMAO:
 

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Newdude said:
They used poly (sprinkler) pipe for a long time up here. There's at least one up by you still using it as a member had it installed last year. So long as it's blown for the winter it's good for a long time.
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Yeah, I am in Massachusetts. I've found the fittings various places like eBay, so they are obtainable, if pricey. I'm more concerned about the condition of the lines. Does PE stay flexible long term when exposed to the elements or is it just gonna split when I try to work with it given that it is 20 years old? If it is going to be a disaster, then I'll just buy new unions and reuse the existing valves I guess.

What would you do?
 
ajw22 said:
From the markings the black pipe is AWWA C901-20 Polyethylene (PE) Pressure Pipe and Tubing

The attached PDF says the pipes should have a 100 year life.
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This is very helpful, thank you! The spec also says they only need to be UV resistant for 3 years of outdoor storage. Given these have been poking out of the ground for 20 years, I'm concerned they are not going to survive any real disturbance. Maybe the best bet would be to dig them up like 6" and make the PVC connection underground... Would that make sense?
 
disjustice said:
Does PE stay flexible long term when exposed to the elements or is it just gonna split when I try to work with it given that it is 20 years old?
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It does just fine long term. The sprinklers at my old place were 35+ years old with a similar manifold above ground.
disjustice said:
Maybe the best bet would be to dig them up like 6" and make the PVC connection underground.
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I'd don't see any benefit besides 'out of sight out of mind'
 
My experience with the black pipe has been very good. Only problem you may run into is as it gets older it may not be as pliable so I use a heat gun to mildly warm it which makes it more workable.
 

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disjustice said:
Maybe the best bet would be to dig them up like 6" and make the PVC connection underground... Would that make sense?
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I would rather have the connection visible to see any leaking when it starts.

I think eventually that poly pipe will need to be replaced. It is a matter of when.
 
ajw22 said:
I would rather have the connection visible to see any leaking when it starts.

I think eventually that poly pipe will need to be replaced. It is a matter of when.
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Yeah, I just moved in in May, so I don't know the pool's full history, but I'm 90% certain the main drain line is ruptured already. The pool guy who's maintained it for the last 20 years never opened the main drain valve when he opened the pool. I never got a chance to ask him about it because he passed away like 2 weeks after he opened for me 💀, but when I open the main drain and close the skimmers, I don't even get enough flow to keep the pump primed, so I've been keeping it closed.
 
I redid the plumbing on my pool and one of the previous set of line was that type of pipe. Not really sure when it was used and why it was replaced. But from what I dug up it was in good shape. I think mine was replaced with flexible PVC (which was flaking off on the inside when I replaced it).

A heat gun or torch can be used to soften the pipe to make getting barbs in and out easier. Be careful to not overheat it. Most times common hose clamps work fine, but hose clamps like these are better at providing even pressure all around the pipe.
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Bill1974 said:
A heat gun or torch can be used to soften the pipe to make getting barbs in and out easier. Be careful to not overheat it. Most times common hose clamps work fine, but hose clamps like these are better at providing even pressure all around the pipe.
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Thanks @Bill1974 ! Once you removed the barb connector, did you cut the hose back, or can you re-use the hose? I'll definitely try picking up those hose clamps, as some of cheaper ones that are currently installed are leaking just a tiny bit.
 
Starting with a fresh section of pipe is best. Might want to try removing the glued in pipe from the barb fitting with a socket saver and putting a new clamp on the barb (if it's leaking).
 
Bill1974 said:
Starting with a fresh section of pipe is best. Might want to try removing the glued in pipe from the barb fitting with a socket saver and putting a new clamp on the barb (if it's leaking).
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Yeah, I might just forgo replacing the valves for another day and just replace the manifold (at least they used union valves). I'll try those fancier hose clamps as well, maybe I'll put two per connection.
 
I use stand issue Pipe clamps (appropriately sized of course) because they're wider than the others. I use my impact gun with a nut bit to tighten them. If you go to far they break, then shave a second of trigger time off the next one. :ROFLMAO:
 
Newdude said:
I use stand issue Pipe clamps (appropriately sized of course) because they're wider than the others. I use my impact gun with a nut bit to tighten them. If you go to far they break, then shave a second of trigger time off the next one. :ROFLMAO:
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You are a braver man than I am! I thought maybe if I add a second one with the clamp at 90° to the first that would even out the clamping force as it would be less likely to squeeze the pipe into an oval and hence be less likely to leak.
 

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