Repair/Replace Jandy JVR-2444 Valve Actuator & Non-Jandy Models

TexasEllis

Bronze Supporter
Nov 18, 2016
37
Frisco, TX
18 year old pool, believe the valve actuator to the spa is finished. Checked wiring, it all appears to be in good condition. Any suggestions on what else to check?

Also, the replacement Jandy part is $200+.....there are identicals from Tork and this brand TPE24VA 24-volte pool valve acuator. Does anyboy have any experience with or thoughts on the lower cost model to replace the Jandy OEM part?

Thank you in advance, really appreciate all I learn here.
 
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We are glad you have found our information helpful. Please, if you can, consider making a donation to TFP. We are staffed by volunteers and are registered as an IRS 501 (c) (3) charity and donations are what keeps the forum operating without advertisements.

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Just donated at 11:13 CDT! Glad I could help.

Next question. I followed the wire to the circuit board and located the plug in. Took it off, plugged the new unit in before installing and it's not getting any commands from the board. Do I have to fully install the actuator valve for it to operate or is my problem more likely on the board and not the actual valve? And if so, any suggestions?

Thank you again!
 
Actuator should work if plugged into the socket.

What board are we discussing?
 
It's an Aqualink RS . Had the entire pump go out last year and the board needed to be replaced as well.
If it matters, it's a Jandy Variable speed EPump model VSSHP270DV2A.

And thank you again, especially for your prompt response!
 
You may have a bad driver chip. Replace the chip in the U10 socket. They are available on Amazon for about $2.

See page 3 in the attached manual...

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If you cannot figure out the chip type post pics of the board and chip in socket and maybe @ogdento can help identify it.
 
First off, you are amazing. Thank you so much for your help.

Here is the board, First pic is looking towards the board as it is opened, the second looking down on the board. If that makes sense. I used the diagram on the link you sent but the salesguy in me isn't figuring out what part you are speaking to.......so thanks for putting up with my novice approach. I just like to fix anything I can. It's very rewarding.

And I'm frugal......
 

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The manual I posted is old and I suspect Jandy changed the board layout over the years. I don't know if the driver chip is still socketed on the board you have.

Your pics are not in good focus but I do not see any chips in sockets.

There may be more under the PCBA CPU board on the left.
 
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yeah it looks like those are all surface mount chips, soldered to the board... see if you can read the numbers off of what I've circled in red:

1731873835077.png
 
OK! Finally got back to it. And y'all are gonna laugh but remember, I am a sales guy. Not an engineer.
The board is fine. The circuits are fine. The chips are fine.

I forgot to move the switch on the actuator valve. Genius, I know. :rolleyes:

So everything is working. Special shout out of thanks to ajw22 and ogdento. Sorry I spun you down a rabbit hole when the solution was pretty simple.
 
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