Question about connecting surge protection device(s) for Hayward Omnilogic sub panel

Oct 10, 2014
10
Arlington
I'm about to install the 4th main circuit board in my Omnilogic control that was installed in 2014, which is expensive and really annoying. I've decided that maybe power surges are at least partly to blame for why my circuit boards go bad after just 2 or 3 years. So I've been reading on TFP about surge protection devices. My home already has them at the main house panel, so all I want to do is add surge protection at my Omnilogic sub panel. The Omnilogic uses a Siemens sub panel.

The Boltshield (on Amazon, SIEMENS BOLTSHIELD Plug-in Surge Protection Device 2-Pole 65kA 120/240V, 1Ø, 3W) sounds good because I like the idea of installing it directly on the bus bar. Today I physically moved the 4 breakers I have so that there is room for 1 or 2 Boltshield SPDs right above the electrical feeds, which connect to the bottom of the bus bar.

Here's my question: The Boltshield just has one wire. I may be reading some things wrong (quite possible), but it seems like the wire on the Boltshield could be connected to either the neutral bar, or to the ground bar (not both). I know it is wrong (and dangerous) to connect neutral and ground in a sub panel (they should only be connected at the main house panel). But for the best surge protection, should I connect the Boltshield wire to the neutral bar or the ground bar? And, should I get 2 Boltshields and connect one to the neutral bar and the other to the ground bar?

It seems like I'd want to protect against Line - Line, Line - Neutral, and Line - Ground surges. Can one Boltshield protect against all 3? Do I really want to send surge amps back along the neutral through the house to the main panel 200' away? I'm not really even sure if the Boltshield's wire should be connected to the sub panel's ground bar - it just seems logical.

If it only makes sense to have one Boltshield, is it better to connect it to neutral or ground and why?

Including a picture of my control panel. It's a rat's nest but it works well when it works.
 

Attachments

  • Omni-AR.jpg
    Omni-AR.jpg
    681.4 KB · Views: 4
Those are helpful and I hadn't yet seen the 2nd one, about using green electrical tape. But I seem to need more explanation. For example, how can one QSPD connected to the neutral wire really offer 3 modes of protection? How does it handle line-ground surges?

Also, I don't mind getting two Boltshields if that is what is best here. So I guess my question boils down to, yes or no, should I get two boltshields and connect one to the neutral and the other to the ground bar?
 
Those are helpful and I hadn't yet seen the 2nd one, about using green electrical tape. But I seem to need more explanation. For example, how can one QSPD connected to the neutral wire really offer 3 modes of protection? How does it handle line-ground surges?

I do not know about the different modes of protection and how it works.

I have the Siemans FirstSurge 140KVA surge protector in my subpanel. I went with the highest KVA protection available.

Also, I don't mind getting two Boltshields if that is what is best here. So I guess my question boils down to, yes or no, should I get two boltshields and connect one to the neutral and the other to the ground bar?
Do you wear belts and suspenders?

There is no predicting how an EMP surge will take out electrical stuff. I got hit by a lightning strike nearby that took out my IntelliCenter board, a garage door opener, and my outdoor amplifier. I believe various low voltage wires connected to those devices acted as antennas and propagated the EMP. There are many entry points for induced voltage into outdoor dialectical equipment then the electrical service panel.
 
I'd ask if anyone else has thoughts about this, but I already ordered 2 Boltshields. We'll see how it goes.

The only thing that appears to be wrong with my main board is that any time any temperature sensor is below 76 deg. F, it keeps falling down to -45 deg. F until it produces a circuit open error. If anyone knows a way to fix that without replacing the motherboard, that would be extremely helpful. It's not the sensors themselves or corrosion or how they are connected.
 
Buy a package of resistors of various values on Amazon.

A 10K resistor will simulate 76F.

A 15K resistor will simulate 61F.

Connect various resistors to the sensor connections. If they do not read correctly then it confirms it is your board.


1200px-10K_thermistor_chart.png