Pump leaks after motor replacement

[MACDXB]

Hello. This is my first post so please be patient .

12,000-gallon freshwater pool in Tampa
Hayward Pro High Rate Sand Filter Series
Pentair Sta-Rite Dura-Glas 2RA5D 120-liter pump
Century HSQ125 – 1.25 HP running @ 115v
System approximately 7 years old




Pump motor started screeching. Replaced motor along with tank body o-ring and shaft seal PS-200. Lubricated all o-rings and seals with Lube Tube. We now have 2 leaks AND system will not prime:

Hayward filter: leaking under top closure dome and flange clamp. This was leaking before pump motor replaced, immediately after turning on the system. The leak reduces once the system has been running for a few minutes.



Pump: leaking from bottom of seal plate and tank body.

• Sand filter clamp and pump V clamp tightened.
• Placed tiles under base in attempt to level seal plate and tank body.
• Filled trap basket with water. Trap loses most water when system turned on and will not prime.
• Pool water levels OK. No obstructions in skimmer.

Before replacing seal plate, tank body and clamps ($$$), would like to troubleshoot other options. Can we use a ‘sealant’ between the seal plate and the tank body?

Please give any suggestions! Thank you!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Being late in the evening you probably won't get to this until tomorrow, but for both the pump leak and the leak at the top of the filter I would separate the components and inspect the o-ring again. Sometimes they can get pinched. You don't want to use any type of sealant.

For the filter, make sure both the filter lip and MPV are clean with no defects. Since pool line is fine to help set the mov collar onto the filter. Be careful to both over tighten.

For the pump, the seal(s) might have slipped during assembly. Take you time and look it over.

As for no prime, that might be due to the seal issue or could be anything in front of the pump allowing air in. Take nothing for granted and inspect everything closely.

Check in with us tomorrow and let us know how things are going.

 

[98Poolmaster]

Hello. This is my first post so please be patient .

12,000-gallon freshwater pool in Tampa
Hayward Pro High Rate Sand Filter Series
Pentair Sta-Rite Dura-Glas 2RA5D 120-liter pump
Century HSQ125 – 1.25 HP running @ 115v
System approximately 7 years old

View attachment 547653
View attachment 547654

Pump motor started screeching. Replaced motor along with tank body o-ring and shaft seal PS-200. Lubricated all o-rings and seals with Lube Tube. We now have 2 leaks AND system will not prime:

Hayward filter: leaking under top closure dome and flange clamp. This was leaking before pump motor replaced, immediately after turning on the system. The leak reduces once the system has been running for a few minutes.

View attachment 547655

Pump: leaking from bottom of seal plate and tank body.

View attachment 547656

• Sand filter clamp and pump V clamp tightened.
• Placed tiles under base in attempt to level seal plate and tank body.
• Filled trap basket with water. Trap loses most water when system turned on and will not prime.
• Pool water levels OK. No obstructions in skimmer.

Before replacing seal plate, tank body and clamps ($$$), would like to troubleshoot other options. Can we use a ‘sealant’ between the seal plate and the tank body?

Please give any suggestions! Thank you!

Pump seal most likely not seated or damaged when changing it, even a small unseen little pinhole in the seal can cause a leak from the seal plate and motor connection also like Texas Splash said anything in front of pump suction side maybe the union o ring or the actuator o rings in front of that line,maybe take another pic of the actuator closer it’s hard to see from that picture-don’t worry by the morning you will have several experts helping you to get it solved-TFP is the best forum anywhere-

 

[MACDXB]

Welcome to TFP! Being late in the evening you probably won't get to this until tomorrow, but for both the pump leak and the leak at the top of the filter I would separate the components and inspect the o-ring again. Sometimes they can get pinched. You don't want to use any type of sealant.

For the filter, make sure both the filter lip and MPV are clean with no defects. Since pool line is fine to help set the mov collar onto the filter. Be careful to both over tighten.

For the pump, the seal(s) might have slipped during assembly. Take you time and look it over.

As for no prime, that might be due to the seal issue or could be anything in front of the pump allowing air in. Take nothing for granted and inspect everything closely.

Check in with us tomorrow and let us know how things are going.

Morning!

Thanks a lot for the quick reply!

We haven't removed/replaced the o-ring on top of the filter yet so that's job #1. As I mentioned, this was leaking before the motor replacement when the system was priming and working and we were focussed on the pump motor.

As for the seal plate and tank body connection, we've already taken apart a second time and tried to be careful, but you might have noticed the motor is super snug against the wall so it's not the easiest thing to get everything clean and clear and get it back into place. We'll go through that step again.



We also most likely tightened both band clamps too much at first so perhaps have flattened/damaged the o-rings. We'll check those.

Does it matter how the seal plate/tank clamp is installed? We didn't notice when first taking off, but we might have put it on 'facing a different direction' (brand name upside down when looking at it from the front). Also, not sure if the clamp nob was on that side and facing up or down. Sorry, just searching for possibilities...

Not sure if we'll get to it today, but thanks again for getting in touch. Happy New Year to you and your family!

 

[MACDXB]

Pump seal most likely not seated or damaged when changing it, even a small unseen little pinhole in the seal can cause a leak from the seal plate and motor connection also like Texas Splash said anything in front of pump suction side maybe the union o ring or the actuator o rings in front of that line,maybe take another pic of the actuator closer it’s hard to see from that picture-don’t worry by the morning you will have several experts helping you to get it solved-TFP is the best forum anywhere-

Thanks Poolmaster! Here are pics of the actuator (I hope! ). We were careful not to change any settings during the motor replacement since the system was 'working' before, although a couple of the valve handles (intake side) are tough to adjust and need to be replaced. We're a bit limited with pool maintenance experience so we were focused on the pump replacement before tackling other issues (not sure that makes sense now that I've said it out loud...).

 

[98Poolmaster]

Thanks Poolmaster! Here are pics of the actuator (I hope! ). We were careful not to change any settings during the motor replacement since the system was 'working' before, although a couple of the valve handles (intake side) are tough to adjust and need to be replaced. We're a bit limited with pool maintenance experience so we were focused on the pump replacement before tackling other issues (not sure that makes sense now that I've said it out loud...).

View attachment 547783

View attachment 547784

They make a gasket replacement kit for that actuator I would replace all gaskets in kit even if they look ok I would probably do this last after seeing if the other issues being solved correct the problem

 

[MACDXB]

They make a gasket replacement kit for that actuator I would replace all gaskets in kit even if they look ok I would probably do this last after seeing if the other issues being solved correct the problem

OK. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[1poolman1]

Hello. This is my first post so please be patient .

12,000-gallon freshwater pool in Tampa
Hayward Pro High Rate Sand Filter Series
Pentair Sta-Rite Dura-Glas 2RA5D 120-liter pump
Century HSQ125 – 1.25 HP running @ 115v
System approximately 7 years old

View attachment 547653
View attachment 547654

Pump motor started screeching. Replaced motor along with tank body o-ring and shaft seal PS-200. Lubricated all o-rings and seals with Lube Tube. We now have 2 leaks AND system will not prime:

Hayward filter: leaking under top closure dome and flange clamp. This was leaking before pump motor replaced, immediately after turning on the system. The leak reduces once the system has been running for a few minutes.

View attachment 547655

Pump: leaking from bottom of seal plate and tank body.

View attachment 547656

• Sand filter clamp and pump V clamp tightened.
• Placed tiles under base in attempt to level seal plate and tank body.
• Filled trap basket with water. Trap loses most water when system turned on and will not prime.
• Pool water levels OK. No obstructions in skimmer.

Before replacing seal plate, tank body and clamps ($$$), would like to troubleshoot other options. Can we use a ‘sealant’ between the seal plate and the tank body?

Please give any suggestions! Thank you!

No sealant between the tank body and sealplate. Open the pump, clean and fill the slot where the O ring sits in the tank body with pool lube, re-install it to the sealplate while tapping near the bottom and tightening the clamp until the ends are about 1/2" apart. That will evenly set the tightness around the sealplate. Wipe off any excess lube that might squeeze out (it collects a lot of dirt).
When the union in front of the pump was opened, was the O ring damaged/lost? Lube before re-assembling.
A Dura Glass pump originally came with a copper seal cone in the sealplate as a heat sink to protect the seal. Was it damaged, removed, and possibly a portion left in the sealplate? Sometimes only a small section is left at the bottom of the hole.
There are no gaskets in the actuator, it merely turns the valve stem. There are 3 O rings in the valve itself, 2 stem and 1 lid. be sure they are lubed and not broken.

 

[98Poolmaster]

I thought they have a gasket for the actuator?Maybe I am wrong?

 

[1poolman1]

I thought they have a gasket for the actuator?Maybe I am wrong?

You're correct, though I have never seen a kit like that at a supplier. Usually, by the time you know you need it the actuator motor is ruined. Won't cause a suction leak and stop a pump from priming. Was just trying to avoid confusion.

 

[98Poolmaster]

You're correct, though I have never seen a kit like that at a supplier. Usually, by the time you know you need it the actuator motor is ruined. Won't cause a suction leak and stop a pump from priming. Was just trying to avoid confusion.

Totally understand we have sold them for years but you are totally correct, it does not cause a suction leak or pump priming issue, I just always recommend that kit once you have the actuator disassembled to change it then and you are right a lot of times the actuator motor is shot.I also usually try to sell the diverter part if they act like it’s a hassle or don’t want us to come out and do the repairs.The o ring kit comes with the shaft o rings and cover o ring so a lot of people just replace those o rings and not the gasket on the body

 

[MACDXB]

No sealant between the tank body and sealplate. Open the pump, clean and fill the slot where the O ring sits in the tank body with pool lube, re-install it to the sealplate while tapping near the bottom and tightening the clamp until the ends are about 1/2" apart. That will evenly set the tightness around the sealplate. Wipe off any excess lube that might squeeze out (it collects a lot of dirt).
When the union in front of the pump was opened, was the O ring damaged/lost? Lube before re-assembling.
A Dura Glass pump originally came with a copper seal cone in the sealplate as a heat sink to protect the seal. Was it damaged, removed, and possibly a portion left in the sealplate? Sometimes only a small section is left at the bottom of the hole.
There are no gaskets in the actuator, it merely turns the valve stem. There are 3 O rings in the valve itself, 2 stem and 1 lid. be sure they are lubed and not broken.

Thanks for the update poolman.

We took the clamp off again, checked the o-ring (it's new), lubed and cleaned the seal plate and tank body plate. Assembled again (tapping the clamp). Still leaking. There is no copper seal cone. Diagram attached says cone was pre-1998 (???).

The seal plate looks relatively OK although it seems a little 'pitted/rough' in some areas around edges. Probably not surprising since this system is at least 7 years old. We're trying to decide whether to replace the seal plate ($150 ).

Thanks again to everyone with the suggestions! Happy New Year!

 

[98Poolmaster]

Thanks for the update poolman.

We took the clamp off again, checked the o-ring (it's new), lubed and cleaned the seal plate and tank body plate. Assembled again (tapping the clamp). Still leaking. There is no copper seal cone. Diagram attached says cone was pre-1998 (???).

The seal plate looks relatively OK although it seems a little 'pitted/rough' in some areas around edges. Probably not surprising since this system is at least 7 years old. We're trying to decide whether to replace the seal plate ($150 ).

Thanks again to everyone with the suggestions! Happy New Year!

Did you replace #4 and #11 o rings in the diagram?That copper seal cone is on the old version of that pump,usually those seal plates don’t go bad, guess it’s possible looks like you’ve done everything that was recommended I am sure you are a little frustrated at this point I would be myself

 

[MACDXB]

We replaced the (new) US Seal 200 (very carefully) and no more leak/pool working (knocking on wood)! Wanted to thank everyone who helped! Much appreciated!!! If anyone near me wants to help vacuum a pool that's been off for three months, please stop by (and bring a BIG brush)....

 

[Texas Splash]

no more leak/pool