New user here. Not sure how to start my own post. I think I may have early stages of white water mold. Can someone help?
Possible White Water Mold
- Thread starter BTK2
- Start date
Hi new user new pool owner. Pool install April 2024. I believe I may have early symptoms of white water mold.
06/30/24: Cloudy water, added 1.5 gallons of liquid chlorine started to clear up. Pool temp 87*F
Pump schedule 7 hours a day 50gpm
07/01/24: Clearer water, not as clear as I like it pool temp 87*F
PH: 8.2
FC: 0.5
CC: 1
CH: 300
TA: 190
CYA: 20 IF MEASUREABLE
SALT: 2800 PPM
* Cleaned Filter than: ADDED MA(60 0z.), LIQUID CHLORINE( 2 gallons), SALT, and CYA(7 LBS powder)
07/02/24: DECENT CLARITY POOL TEMP 87*F, NOTICING MUCOUS HAIR LIKE PARTICLES IN POOL
PH: 7.2
FC: 0.5
CC: 1
CH: 300
TA: 190
CYA: waiting
Salt: 3400 ppm
*Added two gallons of chlorine checked 2 hours later FC: 5 CC: 0.5
Still noticing hair, mucous like particles floating in pool almost transparent some are webby but not as bad as some of the pictures I've seen. I keep brushing and skimming the pool manually everyday before adding chlorine. Ramped up my pump to 12 hours a day at 2500 rpm for two hours and 2300 rpm for 10 hours.
07/03/24: Good clarity, still noticing particles as described before
Ph: 7.2
FC: 0.5
CC: 0.5
CH: 300
TA: 190
CYA: 40 ( still need to get higher, trying for 70)
Salt 3400
* Brushed and skimmed pool manually then Added 3 gallons liquid chlorine in attempt to SLAM. Tested two hours later now sitting at FC:12, CC: 0.
Web, mucous, hair like particles seem to be getting better. I have been manually skimming them out for the last two days though. Pro Tuff brush and soot bag. Leaving pool open for UV, I read that might help white water mold. Not so good for chlorine though.
What am I up against? I was maintaining proper levels, maybe a little low on chlorine like 2-3ppm, prior to this. I can't seem to keep chlorine up and these particles are starting to worry me. I want to nip this in the bud before it gets worse.
06/30/24: Cloudy water, added 1.5 gallons of liquid chlorine started to clear up. Pool temp 87*F
Pump schedule 7 hours a day 50gpm
07/01/24: Clearer water, not as clear as I like it pool temp 87*F
PH: 8.2
FC: 0.5
CC: 1
CH: 300
TA: 190
CYA: 20 IF MEASUREABLE
SALT: 2800 PPM
* Cleaned Filter than: ADDED MA(60 0z.), LIQUID CHLORINE( 2 gallons), SALT, and CYA(7 LBS powder)
07/02/24: DECENT CLARITY POOL TEMP 87*F, NOTICING MUCOUS HAIR LIKE PARTICLES IN POOL
PH: 7.2
FC: 0.5
CC: 1
CH: 300
TA: 190
CYA: waiting
Salt: 3400 ppm
*Added two gallons of chlorine checked 2 hours later FC: 5 CC: 0.5
Still noticing hair, mucous like particles floating in pool almost transparent some are webby but not as bad as some of the pictures I've seen. I keep brushing and skimming the pool manually everyday before adding chlorine. Ramped up my pump to 12 hours a day at 2500 rpm for two hours and 2300 rpm for 10 hours.
07/03/24: Good clarity, still noticing particles as described before
Ph: 7.2
FC: 0.5
CC: 0.5
CH: 300
TA: 190
CYA: 40 ( still need to get higher, trying for 70)
Salt 3400
* Brushed and skimmed pool manually then Added 3 gallons liquid chlorine in attempt to SLAM. Tested two hours later now sitting at FC:12, CC: 0.
Web, mucous, hair like particles seem to be getting better. I have been manually skimming them out for the last two days though. Pro Tuff brush and soot bag. Leaving pool open for UV, I read that might help white water mold. Not so good for chlorine though.
What am I up against? I was maintaining proper levels, maybe a little low on chlorine like 2-3ppm, prior to this. I can't seem to keep chlorine up and these particles are starting to worry me. I want to nip this in the bud before it gets worse.
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Update:
Might have found the culprit. closed the auto cover a few feet and ran my hand in there. Yellowish slime! What is it? and how do I clean the bottom of the cover? Leaving cover locked open for now until I figure this out. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance
Might have found the culprit. closed the auto cover a few feet and ran my hand in there. Yellowish slime! What is it? and how do I clean the bottom of the cover? Leaving cover locked open for now until I figure this out. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance
I’ve fought wwm myself
Can you share some pics or tell us more about your situation?
Maybe start with a full set or Chem test results and why you think you have wwm
Can you share some pics or tell us more about your situation?
Maybe start with a full set or Chem test results and why you think you have wwm
I spent two summers and thousands of dollars trying to clear it. Nothing worked but SLAM
SLAM cleared me up quickly, but took about a week or more to rid all of contaminants. Water looked great but chlorine was still being consumed quickly.
raising the fc to slam level, use a cloth or your pool brush (dipped in the chlorinated water ) to scrub what you can reach.
Close the cover periodically to let it come in contact with the water. Also check the cover “tub” (the compartment it rolls up into). Pour a few buckets of chlorinated water in there too.
Lmk if you come up with a better solution to clean the cover ! Mine gets cruddy too (where it doesn’t come in contact with water) and would love suggestions . Cover company had no solutions when I called them. Say they’ve never had that problem
SLAM cleared me up quickly, but took about a week or more to rid all of contaminants. Water looked great but chlorine was still being consumed quickly.
raising the fc to slam level, use a cloth or your pool brush (dipped in the chlorinated water ) to scrub what you can reach.
Close the cover periodically to let it come in contact with the water. Also check the cover “tub” (the compartment it rolls up into). Pour a few buckets of chlorinated water in there too.
Lmk if you come up with a better solution to clean the cover ! Mine gets cruddy too (where it doesn’t come in contact with water) and would love suggestions . Cover company had no solutions when I called them. Say they’ve never had that problem
I can't with any knowledge comment on wwm, but past threads here generally point to a SLAM (as always) the first line of attack.
Read the pool school articles, especially about CYA/Cl relationships, SLAM and OCLT first, for the finer details about the process.
Your levels reported above were allowed to get very low, to non-existent for several days. And unknown how long they were like that from April to the end of June. So things grew.
That your pool consumed a high amount back on 7/2 (added 8.3 ppm, and 2 hrs later it was at 5, and then .5 the next day) clearly shows lots of organics consuming Cl. And that is not accounting for whatever your IC40 is contributing.
If your CYA is at 40, you must get the Cl level up to 16 (using liquid only), and test frequently (every few hours) to keep it there - no dumping and ignoring until the next day. Turn off the SWCG. As time goes on, you may find it holding better, and can reduce the time between tests - but still a few times per day to make sure. If it seems to be not requiring as much after some days, do an OCLT. Better to delay a day or two than rush it. If you pass the 3 criteria, then you can let the Cl drift down to about 6-7, and make sure to set your SWCG to hold that level going forward. Yes, you can swim when at SLAM level, as long as you can see the deepest parts.
Through all of this, brush multiple times per day. Take any ladders out and clean all parts inside and out, return eyeballs, skimmer baskets, light fixtures, etc. - nooks and crannies that shield from the Cl.
Anything in the pipes/filter should generally be taken care of via the SLAM, and kept out by a proper level in the future.
As for your cover - others will have to advise. The "slime" is likely a brew of bacterial biofilm, perhaps with some algae thrown in. If there is a way to get it off, so you can clean the underside, do so. There may be other not so hard ways to accomplish that task. Bacteria love a moist, warm, dark environment. With no Cl in the water that got splashed on the cover, that's what you gave them when it was rolled up. In the future, after all is clean and the pool maintains a proper Cl level, the odds of something living and growing there will be very low - the Cl in the water on it will keep things at bay.
Increasing your CYA later will help moderate any natural swings the Cl goes through due to sun, pool use, etc. But not critical when doing a SLAM, and going higher now will just require a higher SLAM level, and more Cl every day. If you do go up in CYA, note well that your targets for maintaining FC will go up too.
Read the pool school articles, especially about CYA/Cl relationships, SLAM and OCLT first, for the finer details about the process.
Your levels reported above were allowed to get very low, to non-existent for several days. And unknown how long they were like that from April to the end of June. So things grew.
That your pool consumed a high amount back on 7/2 (added 8.3 ppm, and 2 hrs later it was at 5, and then .5 the next day) clearly shows lots of organics consuming Cl. And that is not accounting for whatever your IC40 is contributing.
If your CYA is at 40, you must get the Cl level up to 16 (using liquid only), and test frequently (every few hours) to keep it there - no dumping and ignoring until the next day. Turn off the SWCG. As time goes on, you may find it holding better, and can reduce the time between tests - but still a few times per day to make sure. If it seems to be not requiring as much after some days, do an OCLT. Better to delay a day or two than rush it. If you pass the 3 criteria, then you can let the Cl drift down to about 6-7, and make sure to set your SWCG to hold that level going forward. Yes, you can swim when at SLAM level, as long as you can see the deepest parts.
Through all of this, brush multiple times per day. Take any ladders out and clean all parts inside and out, return eyeballs, skimmer baskets, light fixtures, etc. - nooks and crannies that shield from the Cl.
Anything in the pipes/filter should generally be taken care of via the SLAM, and kept out by a proper level in the future.
As for your cover - others will have to advise. The "slime" is likely a brew of bacterial biofilm, perhaps with some algae thrown in. If there is a way to get it off, so you can clean the underside, do so. There may be other not so hard ways to accomplish that task. Bacteria love a moist, warm, dark environment. With no Cl in the water that got splashed on the cover, that's what you gave them when it was rolled up. In the future, after all is clean and the pool maintains a proper Cl level, the odds of something living and growing there will be very low - the Cl in the water on it will keep things at bay.
Increasing your CYA later will help moderate any natural swings the Cl goes through due to sun, pool use, etc. But not critical when doing a SLAM, and going higher now will just require a higher SLAM level, and more Cl every day. If you do go up in CYA, note well that your targets for maintaining FC will go up too.
Ahhsome worked very well for clearing pipes. Your bout may not be as serious or require it. Cost me about $30 . Worth it imo
Lost 2 ppm FC from last night to this morning. None of those floating particles are present as well. I feel like I'm gaining on it, although I haven't introduced the cover back into the equation. Waiting for after the 4th (visitors).
Thanks everyone
Thanks everyone
Continue the slam process until you pass all criteria. You don’t want to head back to square one (or worse)
Wwmville is not a pleasant or safe swimming place
Wwmville is not a pleasant or safe swimming place
I was planning on starting the process this weekend though finding conflicting opinions on the FC level. Some are advocating for up to 30ppm. Is there added value for going to this level?
www.swimuniversity.com
Thanks,
Andrew
White Water Mold: How To Get Rid Of White Mold | Pool Marvel
White water mold is a naturally occurring fungus typically found in pool areas with poor circulation, but not harmful to humans.
poolmarvel.com
How to Get Rid of White Water Mold and Pink Slime in a Pool
Pink, white and blue isn't a good look for your pool. Kick the white water mold and pink slime out to avoid illness and keep your pool swimmable.
www.swimuniversity.com
Thanks,
Andrew
I’m not an expert on chemicals , but am one of the few here who have experienced wwm in a chlorine pool .
To my knowledge, you follow the SLAM process for your cya level . Pool math app is helpful for finding your ounces/gallons you need to add
To my knowledge, you follow the SLAM process for your cya level . Pool math app is helpful for finding your ounces/gallons you need to add
As mentioned above, less liquid chlorine is required to slam with the lower cya. Maybe hold off on raising it until after you’ve passed all slam criteria
Other resources have “other methods”
You need to choose which you trust/want to follow. The slam method is tried and true. It’s not a quick fix by any means, but will land you with beautiful, properly sanitized water.
Are you still seeing the shreds ?
Losing fc rapidly?
if you can manage testing and liquid chlorine additions 3 times a day I believe that’s considered slamming. Wouldn’t wait for the weekend to start if you can manage it
The pool marvel article seems to be a “one size fits all” instead of based on the cya/fc relationship
So, I was able to get rid of whatever was in the pool, WWM or some sort of algae. But like I mentioned before I left the cover open in fear of reintroducing more while company was here. Yesterday I closed the cover and gave it a few pats. Low and be hold it is the cover and I have started the SLAM process yet again as of yesterday. It is going well and I am definitely gaining on it. No visible particles, but chlorine is still being used a little excessively. I did however cycle the cover numerous times through out the day and pat the top to free the algae as well as to introduce chlorine to the bottom of the cover. You can check my Math logs as I have tracked everything through there. I did some reading and it seems the SLAM process hasn't been updated yet, but there is an answer to whether one should have the pool cover open or closed through the process. Experts on TFP have stated in other threads that you should keep the cover open even at night. SLAM process is working, I will keep you posted.
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SLAM process seems to be working for me. Twice now,I was planning on starting the process this weekend though finding conflicting opinions on the FC level. Some are advocating for up to 30ppm. Is there added value for going to this level?
White Water Mold: How To Get Rid Of White Mold | Pool Marvel
White water mold is a naturally occurring fungus typically found in pool areas with poor circulation, but not harmful to humans.poolmarvel.comHow to Get Rid of White Water Mold and Pink Slime in a Pool
Pink, white and blue isn't a good look for your pool. Kick the white water mold and pink slime out to avoid illness and keep your pool swimmable.
Thanks,
Andrew
. I did have the time to help remove particles with my soot bag. A lot of time and energy but I really think it helped speed up the process of at least clearing the water and making it look appealing.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 15,974
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You need to clean the cover (both sides) - if its an automatic cover also check/scrub the pit.
If it is a solar cover & the bubbles are starting to pop its time to replace
If it is a solar cover & the bubbles are starting to pop its time to replace
How do you recommend cleaning the bottom? I don't own scuba equipment. haha. auto cover with flush vault/basin/pit.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 15,974
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
If it touches the water the contact with the slam fc level water for a day may be enough. As you open the cover afterwards & it rolls up the chlorinated water will also end up in the chamber and should take care of it.
You may want to scrub/spray it as it unrolls with the vault open. When its rolled up the underside is exposed. The nasties should stay in the vault and drain down.
I would do this step after thoroughly cleaning the vault.
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