Poollife NST prime tablets

[coryg]

Currently I have one of those frog systems that is about to come out. I have looked and researched the liquid chlorine option and have determined that’s the route I want to go. One concern I have, if and when I leave for a period time and cannot add the required amount of liquid chlorine, what will I do.

Today, while looking for liquid chlorine. I came across pool life NST prime tablets that have no stabilizer or does put stabilizer in the pool, which is a problem I think I have. Does anyone on this site have any knowledge of this product. Thanks

 

[Newdude]

It's Cal-hypo and will jack your calcium instead.



Chlorine is a gas. For pools its either stabilized with water (bleach), calcium (calhypo) or CYA (trichlor/dichlor).

Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels

How are you testing ?

 

[coryg]

It's Cal-hypo and will jack your calcium instead.

View attachment 560588

Chlorine is a gas. For pools its either stabilized with water (bleach), calcium (calhypo) or CYA (trichlor/dichlor).

Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels

How are you testing ?

I have a Taylor 2006c being delivered tomorrow. In the past, we relied on either a dealer(many) always with different results or the little test strips. I ran two different ones three days ago and got different results.

My plan is to wait until I can test myself and apply to pool math and on this site before I put any additional chemicals in. I would bet my CYA levels are way high as we have dumped pucks I. It trying to get a chlorine level at least to register.

 

[Newdude]

I have a Taylor 2006c being delivered tomorrow. In the past, we relied on either a dealer(many) always with different results or the little test strips. I ran two different ones three days ago and got different results.

Ok you're on board. GREAT. We have a uphill battle every time convincing folks that the ways that failed them, have failed them. Even in the face of irrefutable proof, their egos don't let them accept it.

My plan is to wait until I can test myself and apply to pool math and on this site before I put any additional chemicals in

Add 5ppm of FC daily until the kit comes. It won't perform any miracles but it won't get any worse either. We'll walk you though the rest when the kit comes. Welcome to TFP !!!!

Here's the pools of the folks who'll be helping you. They're TOP notch.

How Clear is TFP Clear?

 

[coryg]

Thanks a bunch. We’ve had the pool for about 10 years. My wife was the one that took care of it for the most part. I wanna a test kit from the start as I don’t trust people in a store selling an item because I absolutely need it. But that didn’t work out, as she has the power . But this year I will be heading up the fight against the chemistry in our yard. Oh and I hate to loose. So let it begin. I did have hope when I saw the pool life NST prime system as it would be a back up (NOT A PRIMARY) means of adding chlorine when I am gone from the house.

 

[Newdude]

When you know your actual levels and what the additions will do, then sometimes things that were bad to blindly add make sense to add.

If you want poolcare that's on autopilot, consider going salt. The SWG produces whatever you tell it to, and routinely goes weeks at a clip on its own. Maybe you'll need 6 adjustments over the season. *1* click of a button, six times, over months. I cannot recommend it enough.

 

[mknauss]

The issue with the Cal Hypo tablets are you need a special feeder to properly use them. Just dropping them in a floater they will dissolve very rapidly. So not good for a vacation, etc.

Best is to just use trichlor tablets in a floater for your vacation. Test CYA when you return and manage the FC appropriately. You get rain, so dilution is not a big issue.

 

[Lake Placid]

I'd second going's with a SWG, to me they're the best option. However if you wanted to stick with liquid you could automate dispensing with the likes of a HASA Liquidator for instance.

 

[coryg]

Tested some things this evening before the big light bulb in the sky went out. Using a Taylor K-2006c kit
FC = .6 ppm
PH = 7.5
CYA = 0, black dot never disappeared.

What in the world, I would have thought the CYA was going to be extremely high. I have in the past 2 weeks did 2 green to blue kits and 12 bags of HTH shock. I have also vacuumed to waste several times and replacing water.

 

[Lake Placid]

Everything you’ve added is cal-hypo shock. It will increase calcium hardness and FC. What is your calcium hardness testing? You didn’t post those results. If you’ve been feeding your pool a steady diet of cal hypo you’re CYA won’t increase but your hardness will.

 

[coryg]

Didn’t get to do a full test

 

[Lake Placid]

When you get time run a full panel. Don’t fret terribly about your CYA, you can add stabilizer as needed independently, which you will need to do. You do need to add chlorine - hopefully you have liquid on hand. Add enough to bring your FC to 3-5 ppm for the time being.

 

[coryg]

When you get time run a full panel. Don’t fret terribly about your CYA, you can add stabilizer as needed independently, which you will need to do. You do need to add chlorine - hopefully you have liquid on hand. Add enough to bring your FC to 3-5 ppm for the time being.

I do not have any liquid chlorine. But will have some within a few days. Friday I will do a full test and post results.

 

[coryg]

Tested pool. I have 10 gallons of liquid gold chlorine and a gallon of stabilizer.

Test results:
FC= .6 ppm
Ph= 7.2
Base demand was 1 drop
Alkalinity= 100
Calcium Hardness= 200

 

[Lake Placid]

Tested pool. I have 10 gallons of liquid gold chlorine and a gallon of stabilizer.

Test results:
FC= .6 ppm
Ph= 7.2
Base demand was 1 drop
Alkalinity= 100
Calcium Hardness= 200

Your levels don’t look too bad at all (excepting FC) although I would suggest you retest CYA to verify its level. What is your CC? Calcium is a little light you could raise it to 250-350 if you wish, but if you have high CH fill water it will come up as you top off due to evaporation.

If the water is clear and no indications you need to SLAM raise CYA to 40 and target 5-7 ppm FC. If you need to SLAM because the water is murky or other indicators necessitate raise CYA to 30 and SLAM away with a FC at 12.

Your ALK will drop over time with PH management but may rise faster until ALK settles in at 70.

 

[coryg]

Put 1 gallon of CYA in last night and tested this morning. CYA was at 30. Added another pound of dry CYA in a sock. Put 1.5 gallons of liquid chlorine in this evening.

 

[coryg]

Is there a time span I should hold slam to?

 

[Lake Placid]

Assume your CYA is at 40. You want to SLAM at a FC level of 16. Test frequently and add liquid chlorine per poolmath to stay as close to 16 ppm FC as possible. Brush everything frequently.

You are finished with your SLAM when the following 3 conditions are met:

• CC is 0.5 or lower
• your overnight chlorine loss test shows 1.0 ppm of loss or less
• pool water is crystal clear with no visible sign of algae (dead or alive) on floor and walls

If any of these conditions are not true continue the SLAM until they are all met.

 

[coryg]

Assume your CYA is at 40. You want to SLAM at a FC level of 16. Test frequently and add liquid chlorine per poolmath to stay as close to 16 ppm FC as possible. Brush everything frequently.

You are finished with your SLAM when the following 3 conditions are met:

• CC is 0.5 or lower
• your overnight chlorine loss test shows 1.0 ppm of loss or less
• pool water is crystal clear with no visible sign of algae (dead or alive) on floor and walls

If any of these conditions are not true continue the SLAM until they are all met.

Ok couple questions.
Why slam if clear or murky?
How much liquid chlorine should be on hand?
Should I work on other level while the pool is in slam?

 

[Newdude]

Why slam if clear or murky?

Algae grows exponentially. The last few growth cycles are the difference between clear or clear-ish water and full blown swamp. Then you're trying to stop a runaway train and it takes a ton of effort, and dozens of spendy jugs of bleach, just to get back to where someone tried to put it off.

How much liquid chlorine should be on hand?

12 is a good start. If you're fortunate and it goes quick, 6 leftover bottles won't go to waste. If it's a knockdown brawl, 12 will get you a bit before needing a resupply. If it drags on, i'd keep getting 12s until it's towards the end and the FC holds for long stretches

Should I work on other level while the pool is in slam?

Lower the PH to 7.2 before hand, then the rest don't matter until afterwards. FC is the only thing to focus on for the SLAM, unless you've backwashed so much you think the CYA got low.