Pool pump won't turn on
- Thread starter Drmene
- Start date
Pentair EC-342001 Pool Pump | Available at ePoolSupply.com
Pentair EC-342001 Pool Pump: This energy–efficient, durable, and quiet pump is ideal for in-ground pools. It can be purchased from ePoolSupply.com, an authorized Pentair reseller.
www.epoolsupply.com
Pentair Superflo VST Variable Speed Pool Pump - 342002 - INYOPools.com
Your Source for Pentair Pool Pumps - INYOpools.com
www.inyopools.com
SuperFlo® VST Pool Pump
Pentair SuperFlo VST Variable Speed Pool Pump for inground pools is for pools requiring up to a 1.5 HP pump. This pump is a TradeGrade product.
How old is the pump?
It looks older than 15 years.
The date should be on the sticker on the front of the pump.
It might be better to just replace the whole pump.
You have unions, so it should be easier than rebuilding the existing pump.
You can get a single speed for about half the price.
www.inyopools.com
The new DOE Compliant pumps have a back mounted fan, which can be loud and annoying.
It looks older than 15 years.
The date should be on the sticker on the front of the pump.
It might be better to just replace the whole pump.
You have unions, so it should be easier than rebuilding the existing pump.
You can get a single speed for about half the price.
Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP Single Speed Pool Pump - EC-348190 - INYOPools.com
Your source for Pentair pool pumps.
www.inyopools.com
The new DOE Compliant pumps have a back mounted fan, which can be loud and annoying.
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A PSC (Permanent Split Capacitor) Motor has a Main Winding and a an auxiliary/Start winding with a Run Capacitor.
The windings are in parallel.
So, to check the main winding, you need to remove the capacitor so that the main winding is the only winding.
The winding should have a Resistance reading of about 2 ohms for this motor.
The windings are in parallel.
So, to check the main winding, you need to remove the capacitor so that the main winding is the only winding.
The winding should have a Resistance reading of about 2 ohms for this motor.
I posted yesterday about my single speed superflo dying.
I got some great advice on replacement motors from JamesW.
I was lucky enough to pickup a very cheap Superflo VST (342002) with a working keypad but noisy as heck (likely bearings or worse).
I was contemplating opening it up but also found a very cheap Superflo VS (342001) with a dead key pad.
Could i potentially swap the VST keypad on to the Superflo VS motor/pump housing?
It would be a total cost of $150 to get both pumps and frakenstein them together and not have to worry about replacing bearings or swap out inlet and outlet lines as they match perfectly at the moment.
I got some great advice on replacement motors from JamesW.
I was lucky enough to pickup a very cheap Superflo VST (342002) with a working keypad but noisy as heck (likely bearings or worse).
I was contemplating opening it up but also found a very cheap Superflo VS (342001) with a dead key pad.
Could i potentially swap the VST keypad on to the Superflo VS motor/pump housing?
It would be a total cost of $150 to get both pumps and frakenstein them together and not have to worry about replacing bearings or swap out inlet and outlet lines as they match perfectly at the moment.
I thought about that. Both motors are 3 wires. Diff colors but wondering if the 3 wires are the same.
More info. Superflo VS motor and vst motor, if manufactured after Oct 2020 are the same. Unfortunately the one I was looking at buying was manufactured in early 2019.
Might still get it and try to swap the connectors.
More info. Superflo VS motor and vst motor, if manufactured after Oct 2020 are the same. Unfortunately the one I was looking at buying was manufactured in early 2019.
Might still get it and try to swap the connectors.
It is 3 phase output, so the order can change rotation.
Looking at the back, the shaft should rotate clockwise.
The donor superflo VS was sold before I could grab it so no luck there.
Decided to tear down the superflo vst motor (manufactured after 10/2019) which is newer version of the motor. There isn't much info on it even on inyopools.
Caveat: it's not meant to tear down and replace bearings.
Here is some info for others interested in my.l findings.
Once you remove the front plate and back plate hex screws it gets tricky.
Here are some pics
The proper way to tear it down is probably as follows.
Prepare by removing the drive kit from the top of the motor, remove the motor cable shielding, feed the motor cable wires into the top of the motor housing as far as you can. Essentially have just the connector sticking out.
1) remove the metal fan at the back. Through my research, I found it is pressed on and is pretty much impossible to remove with simple tools). I could be wrong, but I gave up on access from this method.
2)if you get the fan removed, the back plate should slide off. I would mark the top with a marker to make sure you align the plate to the housing properly. There is a thin rubber gasket on the edge of the back plate. It does a poor job of keeping the elements out. I could see mineralization along the lip and rust marks along the rear bearing. (maybe this was due to the shaft seal failing and allowing water into the motor housing.)
3) you can now see the rear bearing which has a c-clip infront of it. Both bearing are 6203.
4) to get the front plate off, there are 2 clips that holding the front bearing against the inside of the front plate. I wish I took pictures. Clips are screwed to the inside of front plate. They are Phillips head. There gaps between between the metal plates on the shaft that should allow a long screw driver through to reach the screws.
Here is a picture from an intelliflow vst I took from a YouTube video
5) The the front plate can now be pried off carefully because The cables can be yanked and damaged as they feed through thr front plate. You can now remove the shaft from the coils and motor housing. The front plate had the same gasket issues. I would mark the front plate for orientation too. Don't forget to catch the bearing clips and Phillips head screws.
6) remove the front and rear bearings. Bearing models are 6203.
7) install the rear bearing with your favorite method, install the c-clip, feed the shaft into the motor housing, affix the rear plate to the motor housing and screw the ate down.
7) front bearing can be placed in its groove on the inside of the front plate, affix the bearing clips to the inside of the front plate with the Phillips head screws.
8) to get the front plate on and bearing pressed on to the shaft, feed the shaft through the front plate and use a pvc pipe over the front of the front plate/motor shaft to bash the plate and thus the bearing into place. Screw the front 0late to the motor housing to get the perfect fit.
9) I don't know how, but you have to get the aluminum/metal fan pressed on.
Install a good shaft seal.
Original seal is 17351-0101S is probably best. Around $25.
US Seals cross reference says ps-201 but most Amazon manufacturers are garbage for this seal so get the US Seal brand. The other random company's seals all had defects including rust on the springs, cracks on the mating surface material. You're going to end up getting a leak and ruining the new bearings.
PS-1806 is the higher quality seal but it's around $100
Now I didn't take my motor apart this way as there weren't really instructions and I couldn't grt the rear fan out or change the rear bearing. But I was able to get the front bearing swapped out and a new shaft seal.
For $50 for the entire superflo vst, + $60-70 for bearings, shaft seals and other seals, a bunch of hours of work, it's up and running. Not whisper quiet but definitely manageable compared the the old single speed pump.
Decided to tear down the superflo vst motor (manufactured after 10/2019) which is newer version of the motor. There isn't much info on it even on inyopools.
Caveat: it's not meant to tear down and replace bearings.
Here is some info for others interested in my.l findings.
Once you remove the front plate and back plate hex screws it gets tricky.
Here are some pics
The proper way to tear it down is probably as follows.
Prepare by removing the drive kit from the top of the motor, remove the motor cable shielding, feed the motor cable wires into the top of the motor housing as far as you can. Essentially have just the connector sticking out.
1) remove the metal fan at the back. Through my research, I found it is pressed on and is pretty much impossible to remove with simple tools). I could be wrong, but I gave up on access from this method.
2)if you get the fan removed, the back plate should slide off. I would mark the top with a marker to make sure you align the plate to the housing properly. There is a thin rubber gasket on the edge of the back plate. It does a poor job of keeping the elements out. I could see mineralization along the lip and rust marks along the rear bearing. (maybe this was due to the shaft seal failing and allowing water into the motor housing.)
3) you can now see the rear bearing which has a c-clip infront of it. Both bearing are 6203.
4) to get the front plate off, there are 2 clips that holding the front bearing against the inside of the front plate. I wish I took pictures. Clips are screwed to the inside of front plate. They are Phillips head. There gaps between between the metal plates on the shaft that should allow a long screw driver through to reach the screws.
Here is a picture from an intelliflow vst I took from a YouTube video
5) The the front plate can now be pried off carefully because The cables can be yanked and damaged as they feed through thr front plate. You can now remove the shaft from the coils and motor housing. The front plate had the same gasket issues. I would mark the front plate for orientation too. Don't forget to catch the bearing clips and Phillips head screws.
6) remove the front and rear bearings. Bearing models are 6203.
7) install the rear bearing with your favorite method, install the c-clip, feed the shaft into the motor housing, affix the rear plate to the motor housing and screw the ate down.
7) front bearing can be placed in its groove on the inside of the front plate, affix the bearing clips to the inside of the front plate with the Phillips head screws.
8) to get the front plate on and bearing pressed on to the shaft, feed the shaft through the front plate and use a pvc pipe over the front of the front plate/motor shaft to bash the plate and thus the bearing into place. Screw the front 0late to the motor housing to get the perfect fit.
9) I don't know how, but you have to get the aluminum/metal fan pressed on.
Install a good shaft seal.
Original seal is 17351-0101S is probably best. Around $25.
US Seals cross reference says ps-201 but most Amazon manufacturers are garbage for this seal so get the US Seal brand. The other random company's seals all had defects including rust on the springs, cracks on the mating surface material. You're going to end up getting a leak and ruining the new bearings.
PS-1806 is the higher quality seal but it's around $100
Now I didn't take my motor apart this way as there weren't really instructions and I couldn't grt the rear fan out or change the rear bearing. But I was able to get the front bearing swapped out and a new shaft seal.
For $50 for the entire superflo vst, + $60-70 for bearings, shaft seals and other seals, a bunch of hours of work, it's up and running. Not whisper quiet but definitely manageable compared the the old single speed pump.
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